Ford - Fusion :: 2010 - Shut Down When Stopped At Stop Light
Jun 30, 2011
As I was driving home last night, and my 2010 Ford Fusion shut down. I was stopped at a stop light, and when the light changed I accelerated but nothing happened. On my dash board the oil light and battery light were on. I turned the car officially off, and it restarted. This has never happened before. I have about 38,000 miles plus. I am in sales and drive the car a lot during the week. What does this mean, and should I be concerned?
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I've noticed in the past couple of days that when my Fusion is fully warmed up and stopped at a traffic light I'll feel a short rocking forward-backward. Almost like a bunch of guys are pushing on the car from behind. Sometimes, if it is really bad, I'll even seen the RPMs dip a little bit.
I was thinking that it might be motor mounts causing the sensation. But what would be making the engine dip idle RPM?
Additional info: 138k miles on it and transmission fluid was last changed at about 80k. Plugs changed at 100k. New air filter installed a couple weeks ago.
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Notice to come in to dealership for a computer update for transmission on 2010 Ford Fusion SEL. After update, transmission flared and damaged occured needing repair. After repair vibration was present when stopped at traffic signal. Dealership torked motor mounts. Vibration returned and is worst. Car had 10K miles when update was done damaging transmission. MPG fell by 3.5 mpg in city/highway driving from previous high before repairs. Can this be a motor mount issue? Car has 20K miles now.
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I own a 2010 ford fusion, with a no cap fuel filling system. My son ran it out of gas. While he was trying to add some he could not get it to take because of the internal seal not releasing, it just spilled out the overflow. Ever since then , at the gas station when fueling,the pump will shut off every couple of seconds. I don't know if running out of gas caused this,but i would like to know how to fix it.
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I have a 2011 Ford Fiesta with a little over 90k
Last week I had just gotten gas, i was about to turn out of the gas station when I stepped on the gas the car moved forward slightly before the oil light popped on and the engine seemingly shut off. I put the car in park, turn the engine off and started it up. It turned on just fine and drove like normal as I headed home, first thing the next morning I went to get my oil changed as I was overdue. I was definitely low and my oil(5w30) was changed.
The problem did not repeat itself until 4 days later while out running errands. It happened again twice today...once while again turning out of a parking lot and also while about to turn at a light.
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My daughter's 2010 v6 Fusion has stalled twice (without warning) in the last month at 65+ mph. The dealer reported that since no fault codes were set, there were no repairs they could make to correct this very dangerous situation from recurring. What repairs were made to correct the problem. The car has only 23k miles and has been well maintained at the dealer.
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The power steering fails. Turning the engine off and restarting reactivates the power steering.....
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As I was driving today, I flipped the fan on in my Saturn to clear the windshield. Shortly after I did that, my radio shut down, and wipers slowed down. Car still ran. After stopping for awhile, I began to head home, stopped at a red light, and all electrical shut down as soon as I turned on my turn signal. Wipers, lights, etc. Car still ran, so I went to the nearest parking lot. Engine started running rough when I opened the door, then it quit & would not re-start. We just replaced the battery (original) in December & I am thinking this might be the alternator? My car has never given me one bit of trouble (except for the dead battery) until now.
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First, I should say that my Fusion has an EPAS (Electronic Power Assist Steering) which means that there is no hydraulic pump but rather an electric motor which provides the assistance to the steering system.
In January I had the "Service Power Steering Now" indication on the IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster) as well and an AdvanTrac (Ford's traction control system) light. Also, the power steering was not operational even after restarting the car and disconnecting the battery. I did some reading online and found that corrosion on the battery cable can cause this issue. It turns out that my battery cable had actually cracked in one place from excessive corrosion and was beyond repair. So, I ordered a new harness and changed the entire cable. Even after the cable was replaced the fault didn't clear and the power steering was not available which makes driving quite the workout.
I took the car to the Ford dealership to have the computer reset. The first several mechanics didn't know what to do. Eventually, someone pulled an old grey bearded man resembling Santa Claus from the back who was able to hook up a laptop and reset the computer. When I restarted the car the faults were gone and the power steering worked!
It is now August. Yesterday the exact same thing happened, loss of power steering the the above faults returned. I took a peak at the battery terminal and it is corroded over again! This time it didn't crack, so a good cleaning should suffice. I spent several hours cleaning the terminals with battery cleaner and a wire brush mounted on a Dremel tool. I took the car back to the Ford dealership and got a lot of disbelief from the guys at the shop. Of course, Santa had gone back north for the winter not to return for several weeks. After much debate, I agreed to leave the car for diagnostics ($85).
Ford called back and wants to replace the entire steering gear which has the EPAS motor mounted to it for $1800. I'm pretty sure that they just need to reset the computer (a 3 minute job) so I'm having a hard time agreeing to drop that kind of cash. So, the questions are as follows:
Was my initial fix a good fix? Why don't these faults clear automatically when the problem is cleared (assuming my battery fix was correct)? How do I go about getting my computer reset? -Do shops other than the dealership have the ability to do this? -How much does the equipment cost to do this myself/what would I need?
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My 2010 Fusion SE has 44,500 miles on it. It is the 4cyl. model with a 6 speed manual transmission. I have had the oil changed every 4-5,000 miles, never had any issues. Today when I went in to get the oil changed the guy told me a synthetic blend is required, and he wanted to charge me an extra 20 bucks for the oil change. I looked up in owners man. and it says SAE 5W20 and some Ford nomenclature for the minimum requirements for quality, etc. My question is this, why haven't any of my other oil changes required an up charge to a more expensive oil? I would have noticed. Does this car really need synthetic blend, and if so, is it really better than conventional oil? Have my previous oil changed damaged the car?
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My 2010 fusion radio sound quality isn't as good as when car was new. Also seems to vary on certain days. Has any one had problems with their Sony factory system & what was the fix?
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Was in town stopped at a traffic light when my 2003 Santa Fe just shut off. No warning, started right back up again, no CEL, no DTCs. Scary. I'm happy it happened with me driving the car instead of my daughter driving. Also happy it didn't happen on the highway.
I've had hard starting issues for a while now. Replaced crank sensor, it's fine for a few starts, then goes back to hard starting, but I hadn't had a problem in a few weeks.
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Our 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid has been great and trouble free. Recently, however, we've noticed a strong smell,like fiberglass, come from the A/C when starting from a cold engine.
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The check fuel inlet light went on. Should we be concerned? What does this mean?
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I have a 2012 Ford Fusion SEL. In late December, the check engine light came on (steady, not flashing). I took it to a local mechanic, as the nearest Ford dealership is a 45-minute drive away. He said an evap code came up indicating that there was a problem with the vent valve solenoid, not the capless fuel filler. However, he did not have the diagnostics to research it further.
As there have been problems with the vent valve solenoid, including a recall (for which we do not qualify), my husband bought and installed the part on Jan. 7. We both drove it several times since then, and the check engine light stayed off. But when I drove it today (Jan. 11), the light was back on.
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I have a 2004 Prius with about 50K miles. It is driven every day. I recently noticed that the motor doesn't shut off as frequently as it used to when I stop at a light. It then also shows the battery as almost empty (1 bar) on the touch screen. Gas mileage also seems to be a little lower than it used to be. Other than that the car drives fine. Could this be an indication of the battery starting to go?
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I was driving my Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4 wheel drive single cab when it sputtered a couple of times I came to a stop light and the car stopped I tried starting it to no avail. I also noticed I did not hear the fuel pump run as normal when truck is in accessory position . When my buddy showed up I had him try and start the truck as I banged on the gas tank and it would run when I stopped so did the truck...
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I have my 2004 f250 6.8L. Recently my truck has been having issue with the oil needle. When im stopped or coming to a stop my Check Gauge light comes on and my oil needle drops all the way down. As soon i step on gas it goes right back up. What could it be?
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This is my brother's 02 SE. 140k miles. 4cyl. He claims that the car is beginning to idle rough when he is stopped at a stop light and the AC is on. If i replace the spark plugs should that do it? I'm pretty sure it doesn't have spark plug wires cus that's what my dealer parts dept said. Motor mounts were replaced around 70k if that matters. The vibration is directly related to the AC being on.
I am also going to replace the serp. belt because there's a belt squeak when the motor is cold.
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I am desperately seeking info about my 1998 Honda Civic. My engine keeps quitting on me when I am either stopped at a stop light idling or the rpm's are really low. This seems to happen at random with no warning or check engine light. I keep my tank more than half full with gas so I don't believe this could be it. I have been to my mechanic and they said it could be a multitude of things wrong with it so it doesn't make sense to put money into the car if it won't necessarily fix it. I am desperate to figure something out so it can get fixed because I have to drive to work everyday and I'm sick of feeling anxious while driving all the time!
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Have a 2001 Corolla with 150k miles on it. It isn't straight up dying, but it is shuddering when driving at slower speeds or while stopped at a stop light. Have had the air intake looked at so that shouldn't be it. Sometimes the lights on the dash will dim when this happens but not sure if it might be a battery issue or that is just happening because the car is dying.
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