My 2010 fusion radio sound quality isn't as good as when car was new. Also seems to vary on certain days. Has any one had problems with their Sony factory system & what was the fix?
View 1 RepliesI've had my MK6 GTI for about 4 months now, and this is my first car with a satellite radio (RCD-510). I honestly don't know much about sat radios, or what to expect from them. I have the Dynaudio package. I run my head-unit with all the sliders in the middle right now.
I am not impressed with the sound quality of Sirius (or Ipod MEDIA-IN for that matter), to me Sirius sounds like low quality mp3 stream, less than say 128kbps. It sounds "muddy" and unclear, highs don't have definition and lack dynamic range. There is even some static between let's say hi-hat strikes or other crisp notes. Normal FM radio sounds better, and CD or good mp3 files on SD card even better. Sirius sounds so bad that it is practically worthless to me, comparable to AM reception.
Are there any fuses or relays that I could look for besides what the owners manual calls out? Haynes manual is useless w/this problem also. Everything else seems to work fine. Haven't tried the AC or heat, but my gauges, pwr locks and mirrors are all fine. I'm stuck w/the windows down and no tunes.
View 3 RepliesIs there any way to improve the sound quality of Siri's voice that is handled via the Mobile Assistant? I have a Lexus 300h with the Mark Levinson system and the voice is ok but could be better.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Ford Fusion AWD and noticed a humming noise as I was driving last night. It started when I got near 50mph and seemed to stop or get so quiet as to be not noticeable when I got to 40 or put the breaks on. What this might be?
View 2 RepliesMy son has a 2006 Ford Fusion auto transmission, that he bought used. 6mths. after he bought it he started to have a problem w/the transmission. Runs fine on highway but when he would stop, then give it gas, it would not go and RPM's would race up then clunk into gear and go. He had it replaced by the same people w/a new rebuilt one. It seemed fine for a bit and all of a sudden it started again. Also now with a faint ticking sound when taking off. Problem is he is now on a trip across the country from NE. to Oregon He has made it their safely but i have been meaning to write. Transmission or something else?
View 2 RepliesReception on the FM radio is not very good unless you are tuned to a local station.
View 7 RepliesMy daughter's 2010 v6 Fusion has stalled twice (without warning) in the last month at 65+ mph. The dealer reported that since no fault codes were set, there were no repairs they could make to correct this very dangerous situation from recurring. What repairs were made to correct the problem. The car has only 23k miles and has been well maintained at the dealer.
View 3 RepliesThe power steering fails. Turning the engine off and restarting reactivates the power steering.....
View 1 RepliesI've noticed in the past couple of days that when my Fusion is fully warmed up and stopped at a traffic light I'll feel a short rocking forward-backward. Almost like a bunch of guys are pushing on the car from behind. Sometimes, if it is really bad, I'll even seen the RPMs dip a little bit.
I was thinking that it might be motor mounts causing the sensation. But what would be making the engine dip idle RPM?
Additional info: 138k miles on it and transmission fluid was last changed at about 80k. Plugs changed at 100k. New air filter installed a couple weeks ago.
First, I should say that my Fusion has an EPAS (Electronic Power Assist Steering) which means that there is no hydraulic pump but rather an electric motor which provides the assistance to the steering system.
In January I had the "Service Power Steering Now" indication on the IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster) as well and an AdvanTrac (Ford's traction control system) light. Also, the power steering was not operational even after restarting the car and disconnecting the battery. I did some reading online and found that corrosion on the battery cable can cause this issue. It turns out that my battery cable had actually cracked in one place from excessive corrosion and was beyond repair. So, I ordered a new harness and changed the entire cable. Even after the cable was replaced the fault didn't clear and the power steering was not available which makes driving quite the workout.
I took the car to the Ford dealership to have the computer reset. The first several mechanics didn't know what to do. Eventually, someone pulled an old grey bearded man resembling Santa Claus from the back who was able to hook up a laptop and reset the computer. When I restarted the car the faults were gone and the power steering worked!
It is now August. Yesterday the exact same thing happened, loss of power steering the the above faults returned. I took a peak at the battery terminal and it is corroded over again! This time it didn't crack, so a good cleaning should suffice. I spent several hours cleaning the terminals with battery cleaner and a wire brush mounted on a Dremel tool. I took the car back to the Ford dealership and got a lot of disbelief from the guys at the shop. Of course, Santa had gone back north for the winter not to return for several weeks. After much debate, I agreed to leave the car for diagnostics ($85).
Ford called back and wants to replace the entire steering gear which has the EPAS motor mounted to it for $1800. I'm pretty sure that they just need to reset the computer (a 3 minute job) so I'm having a hard time agreeing to drop that kind of cash. So, the questions are as follows:
Was my initial fix a good fix? Why don't these faults clear automatically when the problem is cleared (assuming my battery fix was correct)? How do I go about getting my computer reset? -Do shops other than the dealership have the ability to do this? -How much does the equipment cost to do this myself/what would I need?
My 2010 Fusion SE has 44,500 miles on it. It is the 4cyl. model with a 6 speed manual transmission. I have had the oil changed every 4-5,000 miles, never had any issues. Today when I went in to get the oil changed the guy told me a synthetic blend is required, and he wanted to charge me an extra 20 bucks for the oil change. I looked up in owners man. and it says SAE 5W20 and some Ford nomenclature for the minimum requirements for quality, etc. My question is this, why haven't any of my other oil changes required an up charge to a more expensive oil? I would have noticed. Does this car really need synthetic blend, and if so, is it really better than conventional oil? Have my previous oil changed damaged the car?
View 19 RepliesAs I was driving home last night, and my 2010 Ford Fusion shut down. I was stopped at a stop light, and when the light changed I accelerated but nothing happened. On my dash board the oil light and battery light were on. I turned the car officially off, and it restarted. This has never happened before. I have about 38,000 miles plus. I am in sales and drive the car a lot during the week. What does this mean, and should I be concerned?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Ford Fusion SE 2.3L 4 cylinder. It has approximately 94,000 miles on it. I purchased new Sumitomo tires with a 100,000 mile warranty in February of this year. They were balanced and aligned at the time of install. So far they have been very smooth and quiet with great grip. About 2 months ago I started hearing a noise that sounds like uneven tire wear, a sort of rhythmic rubbing or wobble sound that increases in frequency as the speed increases. It is most noticeable at speeds between 30 and 50mph. I rotate the tires every other other change (at least twice a year) and had the alignment done again in late October. I am hoping that there is nothing wrong with my virtually brand new tires. Is there anything else it could likely be?
View 2 RepliesNotice to come in to dealership for a computer update for transmission on 2010 Ford Fusion SEL. After update, transmission flared and damaged occured needing repair. After repair vibration was present when stopped at traffic signal. Dealership torked motor mounts. Vibration returned and is worst. Car had 10K miles when update was done damaging transmission. MPG fell by 3.5 mpg in city/highway driving from previous high before repairs. Can this be a motor mount issue? Car has 20K miles now.
View 1 RepliesOur 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid has been great and trouble free. Recently, however, we've noticed a strong smell,like fiberglass, come from the A/C when starting from a cold engine.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2013 Elantra and had to disconnect the battery. Once the battery was reconnected, there is no sound coming from my speakers. The radio turns off/on, searches for stations, etc. Everything I have read tells me to push the reset button, which is a tiny hole on the radio face plate. I have had 4 different people look for it, and it is NOT there. Looked in the owners manual about battery change and it says to reset the radio, but the manual has no instructions on how to do this. We have pulled fuses, disconnected and reconnected the battery again but it still doesn't work. Purchased the car used and never received any information on the radio code as other forums say I need to have. 2 hours in the car in silence is not fun.
View 16 RepliesI've tried several times to listen to the XM/Sirius service without trying to cringe, but it's darn near impossible. It feels like I'm listening to an MP3 with a 64k bitrate. Is this normal?
The bass is fine, the highs are ok, but the midrange just sounds horrible. How to fix?
Mr Squeaky is a 2003 Subaru Legacy
Here are the signs and symptoms that my car wants to die. The car makes sound like grinding metal after I drive it for a good 10-15 miles. It starts up when I turn to the right. It does not seem to matter how slight the turn to the right is but it seems to not start up until I head in that direction a little bit. Once it gets going, it does not stop, and squeals incessantly. I can make it stop by putting my foot on the brakes but the noise almost always starts right back up as soon as I take my foot off the brake. Speed of travel seems to have no effect on this noise. If I park my car for 5 min and then drive away, again the noise normally goes away. My heat gauge never goes into the oh crap zone, and my mechanics swear my brakes are good.
Since around 3 days.. i hear a grinding noise, while going in some kind of streets... highways or not so good roads.. this doesn't happens when I turn the car to left or right, it happens when I am going 30mph+....
Last night I checked rear shocks.. and one of them seems to have some oil leakage I am not really sure, but it has... some wet lines above it.. so I guess that's oil...
Dealership tested the car around 15 days ago, but this weird noise wasn't present.. although they order new rear shock and springs...
My front right or left or both for that matter, (its hard to pinpoint the noise while driving) makes a clinking noise when I hit a good size bump. No noise at all on smaller ones?
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