Ford - Fusion :: 2010 - Oil Change / Synthetic Blend Required
Oct 6, 2015
My 2010 Fusion SE has 44,500 miles on it. It is the 4cyl. model with a 6 speed manual transmission. I have had the oil changed every 4-5,000 miles, never had any issues. Today when I went in to get the oil changed the guy told me a synthetic blend is required, and he wanted to charge me an extra 20 bucks for the oil change. I looked up in owners man. and it says SAE 5W20 and some Ford nomenclature for the minimum requirements for quality, etc. My question is this, why haven't any of my other oil changes required an up charge to a more expensive oil? I would have noticed. Does this car really need synthetic blend, and if so, is it really better than conventional oil? Have my previous oil changed damaged the car?
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Circumstances required me to make an emergency trip to Phoenix this week. On the way down, I first got the "Oil change soon" warning, followed by the "Oil change required" message a few hundred miles later.
I religiously keep my truck serviced on time, and have never had either of these warnings come up before. My truck had 2700 miles on it since last service was done when this first warning came up. My truck gets very little idle time, so it's not sitting idling for hours a day.
My question is, is this oil change message a result of an actual oil monitoring sensor that measures oil quality on-the-fly, or is it strictly based on a miles or odometer timer that gets reset when dealer changes the oil?
At this point I'm wondering if the kid that serviced my truck either forgot to reset a timer, or worse, just "pencil whipped" my oil change. I have to call my home dealer back, since the service manager wasn't in yet when I called.
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How do I reset the oil maintenance reqired check light after change of oil.
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Mechanic at work told me to run 10-15 k.
My truck is my daily driver for work and such. Occasional 300 mile round trips to see family.
Last time I changed my oil was in June. And I've put about 6500 miles on it.
I run royal purple 15-40
I just not sure what to believe. Maybe someone has a link to an article ?
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The trans fluid appears to need to be changed. I do not know if it has been changed in the past as this 2001 F150 with a V6 truck is new to me and has 88K miles. I am wanting to drain the torque converter as well as drop the pan and change the filter. I am willing to take the risk of having to rebuild the transmission if the flush junks it up.
Three Questions:
1. Is there any issue with mixing the synthetic with ATF fluid as there would still be ATF in the cooler and other places unless I take it someplace and have it mechanically flushed?
2. Is there a way to determine if my 4R70W trans has a drain plug in the torque converter with out getting under there, looking thru the inspection port while some one is clicking the starter?
3. Is there any reason not to put a drain plug in the pan while it is uninstalled?
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I have a 07 camry I4 with 56,900+ miles and it was using 10w30 conventional oil, but recently (2 weeks ago) I change it to 5w30 Mobil1 synthetic and today notice at start up white smoke, it didn't do this before with the conventional oil.
Is this normal with this type of change from conventional to synthetic or should I worry and try to go back to conventional and see if it stop.
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10,178 miles and no oil change message yet.
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I have a 2012 F150 XL. I don't have a message center, just a 2 line LED readout, and there is nothing in the owner's manual about resetting the "oil change required" message.
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I have a 2005 F-150 4x2 with 4.2L mojo. If I change the struts, is an alignment required due to slight changes in the top mount location? I plan on having it aligned but timing wise I may not be able to get it all done at the same time.
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For those of you struggling like I was a few minutes ago... Here is a procedure that worked for me.
1. Key ON.
2. Select OK to get rid of OIL CHANGE REQUIRED message.
3. Scroll down to SETTINGS and push OK.
4. Scroll down to VEHICLE and push OK.
5. Scroll down to OIL LIFE RESET and push OK.
6. Scroll to any % other than what you want and push OK.
7. Scroll to what % you want and push OK.
8. Key OFF.
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My 2012 F-250 gas just started showing this message that a coolant change is required. I am just over 59k miles. Is this a timed message all F-250's get, or is it an indications something is wrong? The truck does not run hot, it keeps perfect temperature even when I am towing my 13klbs boat.
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My daughter's 2010 v6 Fusion has stalled twice (without warning) in the last month at 65+ mph. The dealer reported that since no fault codes were set, there were no repairs they could make to correct this very dangerous situation from recurring. What repairs were made to correct the problem. The car has only 23k miles and has been well maintained at the dealer.
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The power steering fails. Turning the engine off and restarting reactivates the power steering.....
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I've noticed in the past couple of days that when my Fusion is fully warmed up and stopped at a traffic light I'll feel a short rocking forward-backward. Almost like a bunch of guys are pushing on the car from behind. Sometimes, if it is really bad, I'll even seen the RPMs dip a little bit.
I was thinking that it might be motor mounts causing the sensation. But what would be making the engine dip idle RPM?
Additional info: 138k miles on it and transmission fluid was last changed at about 80k. Plugs changed at 100k. New air filter installed a couple weeks ago.
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My car is less than a week old. My salesman told me that my 2010 Prius III has conventional oil in it. However, one of the sales managers said all 2010's come with synthetic from the factory. The pamphlet with the owner's manual says it has synthetic oil as well. I don't know the advantages of going to synthetic, but I know you can't switch over later.
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First, I should say that my Fusion has an EPAS (Electronic Power Assist Steering) which means that there is no hydraulic pump but rather an electric motor which provides the assistance to the steering system.
In January I had the "Service Power Steering Now" indication on the IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster) as well and an AdvanTrac (Ford's traction control system) light. Also, the power steering was not operational even after restarting the car and disconnecting the battery. I did some reading online and found that corrosion on the battery cable can cause this issue. It turns out that my battery cable had actually cracked in one place from excessive corrosion and was beyond repair. So, I ordered a new harness and changed the entire cable. Even after the cable was replaced the fault didn't clear and the power steering was not available which makes driving quite the workout.
I took the car to the Ford dealership to have the computer reset. The first several mechanics didn't know what to do. Eventually, someone pulled an old grey bearded man resembling Santa Claus from the back who was able to hook up a laptop and reset the computer. When I restarted the car the faults were gone and the power steering worked!
It is now August. Yesterday the exact same thing happened, loss of power steering the the above faults returned. I took a peak at the battery terminal and it is corroded over again! This time it didn't crack, so a good cleaning should suffice. I spent several hours cleaning the terminals with battery cleaner and a wire brush mounted on a Dremel tool. I took the car back to the Ford dealership and got a lot of disbelief from the guys at the shop. Of course, Santa had gone back north for the winter not to return for several weeks. After much debate, I agreed to leave the car for diagnostics ($85).
Ford called back and wants to replace the entire steering gear which has the EPAS motor mounted to it for $1800. I'm pretty sure that they just need to reset the computer (a 3 minute job) so I'm having a hard time agreeing to drop that kind of cash. So, the questions are as follows:
Was my initial fix a good fix? Why don't these faults clear automatically when the problem is cleared (assuming my battery fix was correct)? How do I go about getting my computer reset? -Do shops other than the dealership have the ability to do this? -How much does the equipment cost to do this myself/what would I need?
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My 2010 fusion radio sound quality isn't as good as when car was new. Also seems to vary on certain days. Has any one had problems with their Sony factory system & what was the fix?
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As I was driving home last night, and my 2010 Ford Fusion shut down. I was stopped at a stop light, and when the light changed I accelerated but nothing happened. On my dash board the oil light and battery light were on. I turned the car officially off, and it restarted. This has never happened before. I have about 38,000 miles plus. I am in sales and drive the car a lot during the week. What does this mean, and should I be concerned?
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Notice to come in to dealership for a computer update for transmission on 2010 Ford Fusion SEL. After update, transmission flared and damaged occured needing repair. After repair vibration was present when stopped at traffic signal. Dealership torked motor mounts. Vibration returned and is worst. Car had 10K miles when update was done damaging transmission. MPG fell by 3.5 mpg in city/highway driving from previous high before repairs. Can this be a motor mount issue? Car has 20K miles now.
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Our 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid has been great and trouble free. Recently, however, we've noticed a strong smell,like fiberglass, come from the A/C when starting from a cold engine.
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Ok, I know the problem is the blend door, but not which one. I hear a clicking constantly whether the truck is started or not near the center of the passenger side. I can adjust the temp to be 65-70 on the driver side and be fine, but the passenger side is hot. I've looked for TSB's for 2010 and have come up empty. I bought the truck used, and bought an extended warranty, but not sure it will cover this repair.
Is there a TSB for this? If you had this done at the dealer, how much did it cost to repair? Would you attempt the repair yourself? I've taken the dash apart to find the problem, but then determined it might be too involved for me to do and I wasn't comfortable disconnecting the air bags.....
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