Ford - Fusion :: 2006 - Leak In Crankshaft Seal
Oct 5, 2014
I have a 2006 Ford Fusion SE (2.3L 4-cyl.) 5-speed Manual, with 280,000 miles on it. It's been a great car with very little repairs, etc. I've noticed a little oil on the driveway - nothing big, but certainly consistent. At my last oil change, they told me I had a leak in the crankshaft seal and that I should take it to an engine shop. I'm not a 'do it yourself' kind of person when it comes to big repairs. I'd love to keep the car going another year... If I don't fix it, should I avoid oil changes? The leak doesn't seem bad and it doesn't drive any different.
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I've got to replace a leaking front crankshaft oil seal. Haynes shows using a steering wheel puller with the two bolts installed, but without the center screw. Insert a socket and extension through the center screw hole. Hold the body of the puller with an adjustable to keep the crank pulley from turning while you loosen the pulley bolt. I've got an air impact. Would that hammer the pulley bolt loose without having to hold the pulley? I've also got a chain vise-grip, but I'm not sure yet if it would clear the other pulleys. Assuming I get this far, should I pry out the seal with a flat screwdriver wrapped in tape? Would it work to cut the rubber out of the seal first?
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2004 Hyundai Elantra. Working on crankshaft seal keeps coming out !
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Replacing the crank shaft and camshaft oil seals on a 2001 - 2006 2.4L engine?
I'm in the process of installing a timing belt kit w/water pump, pulleys and all seals. My engine has 190,000 Km with no signs of oil in the timing area, but I figure the oil seal would be worn and or cracked/dried so it would make sense to change them, plus it was included in the kit.
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I have a 2006 sonata 3.3 with auto trans I'm having trouble with fluid leaking from the passenger side axle seal. I have already replaced the seal with a Hyundai seal and it is still leaking. Not as bad as before but it leaks onto the exhaust and smells really bad. The transmission is not overfull...
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I have a real puzzler on my hands. I have a 2006 Ford Fusion with a manual transmission. Its only got around 70K miles on it, since i was not driving it much for the first couple of years after purchase. Around the fall of last year, i was noticing that the car would make a creaking noise, and with time i was noticing it more. The "creaking" only is heard when the car comes to a stop and takes off (like in bumper to bumper traffic). So when the car is normal speed, i dont hear any noise regardless of putting on the brakes.
I have also noticed that the noise would only come during the afternoons (after my car had been sitting in a hot parking lot). In the morning, the car sounds normal and has no "funny" sounds, due the fact that I park my car in a cool garage overnight. The car drives normal no matter the heat conditions, but the noise can be very annoying. I have also recently noticed that you can sometimes hear this noise when people get in their seats of the car.
I have tried to take my car to a mechanic, but they can not find what is wrong. (Unfortunately, I have only been available to take the car in the mornings, so they of course can not hear a problem). The bearings all check out fine, and doesnt appear to be the shocks. My father also knows alot about cars, and this is really stumping him. The only that he noticed is that the engine mount was cracked, so we got that replaced. We were hoping that this would solve the problem, as he guessed that the "creak" was of the engine shifting. This did not solve the problem, but I am glad that we got it taken care of. As far as I can tell, the sound seems to be coming from the front center of the car, and not from a particular wheel.
During the winter here in Houston, I have not heard the noise, but now that its heating up; the "creak" has reared its ugly head again. What can i do?
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I have a 2006 Ford Fusion with a 2.3 L engine and 110k miles that needs a new engine according to the dealer. The car was well taken care of with regular oil changes etc. My local mechanic says the supply of used engines for the Fusion is limited because of their extremely high failure rate. He is a one man shop that has done 6 Fusion replacement overs the past 2 weeks alone yet when I called Ford they claim there has not been unusual numbers of engine failures reported. In spite of this, the Ford dealer mechanic refers to it as a throw away engine.
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The blower and A/C on my 2006 Ford Fusion keeps turning on and off. The system has manual knobs and is not computerized. It turns on just for a few seconds and then turns off. The knob that controls the turning on and off of the system is in the off position when this happens. What could be causing this?
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My 2006 Ford Fusion SE V6 has trouble starting in cold weather. Once it starts, it's fine throughout the day, but once it sits a long time, like overnight, it has trouble starting in the morning. If it had a carburetor, I'd say the choke wasn't working. The dealership couldn't figure it out a few years back. I even tried a new battery and that didn't work. Is there a sensor that detects cold weather and increases fuel flow or chokes off air flow for richer starting mixture that could be failing?
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2000 Excursion, Limited, 4X4, 6.8L, V10. My right front inner differential seal is leaking. I have researched and found out that I have to remove the pumpkin gear assembly from the front differential to get at the seal.
Do I need any special tools to get the seals seated back into the differential? Any instructions or a list of parts needed?
I went to fordparts.com and entered my vin number but it makes no reference to the parts of the front differential only the rear.
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I got a fmx mated to 351w, trans was on back of a 302 and no problems other than small leak around tail shaft seal but shifted great. Now I decided to install mildly built 351w so figured it'd be a good time to build tranny. Installed after build and immediately it was slipping. Pulled trans out took it back to shop and he said the forward seal was blown. Installed again, after about 15 miles same result! What could be causing this. It is fine in reverse, but slips bad in forward gears.
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I noticed pool of oil yesterday morning, felt engine oil has leaked. Did oil change as it was due, the mechanic said the leak doesn't seem big enough, still overnight there was again lot of oil leaked, I kept a pan below to capture it. Checked it at auto shop near me and they said it is transmission fluid leak and probably due to driver side axle seal leak. I am going to take it again tomorrow to fix. How much do you think it will cost to fix if this is right diagnosis? This is 2005 4 cyl Ford escape with 150k on it. As per them if it is axle leak it will probably more of labor (2 hrs) than seal price.
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I just had trans rebuilt in my 98 4x4 4.0 ranger I thought while they had the trans out go ahead and replace rear seal. Got the truck back leaking bad carried it back they claim to have replaced it twice while they had it and guaranteed it was not leaking they say the leak is from the oil pan so I'm gonna pull the motor this week. Question is: can make an offset rear seal I still believe this is the problem. Which oil pan gasket to use.
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This is a photo of my '79 F250 4x4 rear axle (Dana 60 full floater) this seal will leak in a few miles ..what I need is the part number of a replacement seal made like the one in the lower photo ..it seems that Ford no longer has this seal.
Notice the increased distance from the bearing to the sealing lip in this photo ..the sealing lip on the new seal in the upper photo lies almost on the bearing, this one just barely engages the seal surface on the axle stub. I can machine the bearing pocket deeper to cause the seal to move farther onto the sealing surface, but that would also cause the bearings to be closer together, and may cause problems there.
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2004 automatic 88,000 miles 2wd
When I bought the truck it had a very small oil leak that would drip out of the bell housing between the housing and the inspection pan. it would leave a quarter (25cents) sized stain on the ground and would only drip for 10 minutes or so after I shut it off. in 3000 miles it would be down 1/2 quart of oil...
Well 3 weeks ago I stopped and noticed a HUGE stain now. I checked the oil and was 1 quart low. I filled it then I drove 90 miles the final week before parking and was down another 1/2 quart...
I am figuring the rear main seal is gone. I did some research and it seems these are common to go in the 3.0? What seal is the best to get? should I get the seal right from the dealer? or I will run into the same problem and go with a after market? I also learned that the crank shafts can get a groove in them and it's good to put a new "speedy seal" where can I get one of those?
Also for some strange reason I take the tranny out and the rear main is good ( I seriously doubt it) is there anything else that could be leaking that I should check when I have the tranny out? Can I remove the tranny with the factory exhaust still in place? it looks like it can squeeze just by it?
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New issue this week - truck developed a leak from the pinion seal. I'm not sure how much has leaked out, so I would like to top it off before limping to the dealership.
From the manual: "Motorcraft SAE 75W-140 Rear Synthetic Axle Lubricant" There is also a footnote for friction modifier required for a Trans-Loc rear diff. Assuming that footnote refers to an LSD and NOT the E-Locker, should be able to top off with just the fluid, correct?
I am a die hard for Truck fan but am really disappointed with the overall quality of the truck. I bought it new and now with 30k, I've had it in twice to have rotors turned, once for transmission getting stuck in 5th and needed a new molded leadframe assembly, and now the pinion leak. All fixed under warranty, however really unacceptable for a truck with this low of miles and an easy life.
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Recently had a rear pinion leak and replaced the seal and nut. I jacked up the truck, took off wheels and felt the drag so I could duplicate once i had the new seal as I tightened the nut. I've done this only once before on my F150 years ago, but when I put the driveshaft back on and test drove it, i had shudder when not under load. So when I let off of the accelerator, it had shudder and more the faster I was going.
Obviously thinking this is a preload issue with the rear axle but would this be caused by tightening too much or too little. I had no issues before so I would think that the driveshaft itself is not the issue. I can't confirm that I got it bolted up in the exact same manner as before in relation to the flanges but still wouldn't think that to be the issue.
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Looking for a video, pictures, or steps that are in depth on how to replace my rear seals and bearings? They are leaking very badly and would like to see some other ways to get it done.
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99, F250, 4X4, V10, 72,000 miles. I have had the front axle seals replaced three times in the past 3000 miles, and the right continues to leak. My mechanic screwed up three times?
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I was surprised by a leak and identified where the water was coming from, the bottom of my vehicle. It's from a gasket or seal on the front of the pan near the flywheel. 1994 Ford Explorer 4X4.
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I do believe my a/c drain is plugged and wetting my passenger side carpet with water. I pulled my floor mat the other day to vacuum and noticed the carpet was wet underneath the weather tech floor mat. No water on top of the mat. It must be leaking down inside of firewall and under the mat.
My guess is I need to find the drain hose and un-plug it with weed cutter line or re-route the tube. I leave for a work trip tomorrow and don't have time to take it to the stealer. I have to run A/C the whole time so I know it will get wet again. I have today and tomorrow to figure it out.
PS - no rain here for months so I know it isn't the door seal leak. I have had the a/c on 24/7 all summer.
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