We have an early model 460 with carburetor (circa 1976) in a boat. We need to exchange motors and have a line on a 1994 460 engine, fuel injected. Will the carburetor manifold we have fit in place of the fuel injected manifold and just run a carbureted manifold? Since this is for a boat there is no computer, no port for the exhaust sensor, and no sensor for the speed control. Its a plain and simple carburated motor.
View 1 RepliesI just purchased an 87 f250 w/ a carb'd 460. I purchased it with the mech fuel pump swapped out to an electric. The previous owner states that they gave him the wrong electric pump and I should exchange it for a different one. The reason for him putting it on was to get it running for me to hear it run.
My question: Is this even recommended? I wouldn't mind staying with an electric pump up front. If it is recommended, what would be a suitable pump to replace it with, as in flow/feeding characteristics?
Also, it only feeds from the rear tank, which also has a bad fuel pump. I'd like to get both tanks functioning again. I'd rather not deal with the tank switching valve due to what I've read about them. Has anyone ever hooked up a manual valve and just switched tanks that way? I've searched this site extensively and couldn't find anything. I know I'm not the first to have thought about it.
I have a '97 4.6L 4x4. I've had a few issues recently and am at wits end.
Symptoms: while pulling a boat at highway speed, the engine engine just died. After waiting about 20 minutes for a buddy to show up with a tow rope, it started up and ran fine...until I got home (10 miles). I parked and after approx 5 minutes of idling it died again. No CEL, and found no codes when scanned. 15 minutes pass, it fires up and works fine.
The next day, I hook the boat up again, dive to the lake, go fishing, drive home. Everything was fine. I unhook the boat and drive to work. Half way there my voltage gauge starts falling and 5 miles later all of my gauges end electric stuff dies. I drive two more miles to work and strange beep starts coming from under the dash on the passenger side (I think). After my 12 hour shift it starts and I start my 10 mile commute. Half way through I lose electrical power again but make it home. Now it doesn't have the juice to turn over.
Are these problems related, and what are the possible causes and cures? On an unrelated note, what's the easiest way to replace a rear leaf spring shackle?
I have a holley 390 cfm carb on a 78 F250, 300 I6 with headers and an offy dp intake. Somewhere i am getting way too much fuel to the engine and it is sputtering and smoking bad. I have checked the float level, needle and seat, and power valve. All seemed ok but i replaced the power valve and needle and seat on the primary side just to be sure. Even with the float level adjusted way low and the idle mixture screws turned way in the truck would still sputter and spew out black smoke at idle and all throttle positions. I can't figure out where the gas is coming from. I checked to make sure the butterflies were closed and they were. I looked down the throat of the carb when it was running and didn't see any gas rushing in. When i take the carb off the bottom is soaked and the gasket and spacer is all soaked and theres gas sitting in the bottom of my intake. Where is this gas coming from?
View 14 RepliesIs it fair to assume that my filter is clogged when I turn over the engine and fuel does NOT come out of the filter with the uphill line disconnected. I was able to disconnect the rear line from filter and fuel DID pump out of line when I cranked it over. Been dealing with a crank no start, I'm in the process of trying to test my CPS properly but not sure if I'm testing it right.
2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles....
I am unable to get fuel delivery from tanks to engine in normal operation. I can however get pumps working with jumper wire to them. It will start with ether but not stay running on it's own. Could this be a relay or something in tfi thing ?
View 14 RepliesI'm dripping fuel on top of the engine at the fuel filter . Where the line ties into the filter canister, there is a small plate that's attached with small Allen screws its dripping between this plate and the canister .... I assume there is a gasket/oring that is causing it ...... What is the part number or correct description so I can go to ford dealer and get one. It's a 2007 Ford 4x4 6.0 diesel.
View 2 RepliesI have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
I recently joined the Lexus club purchasing a GS300, and I am very excited. I was thinking about swapping out the head unit, for something a little more modern, like an Apple CarPlay system. As I already have the Mark Levinson system in the car, if I were to change the head unit, would the Mark Levinson system be ruined or unusable, or would the new head unit integrate into the system. I ideally want to keep the ML system in tact, but have a more updated head unit...
View 14 RepliesI have an 84 Bronco II with a fuel injected 302 in it. I was out wheeling with it the other day, and it was doing great until about 3:00. I got out to see that my brothers radiator had sprung a leak. When I got back in my Bronco and put it in gear, it just stalled. I started it back up and it ran for about 10 seconds then shut off. It kept doing that over and over again. Finally, I got tired of it and had someone get my truck and tow me out of there. Why would it run for about 10-15 seconds only and then shut off like it was getting no fuel (yes, it does have fuel in it)? I have a feeling it might be fuel pressure regulator valve because it was acting up a while ago..
View 10 RepliesI got a new ipr an looking in the oil pump end there's a small spring with a screw n the middle. Is this a pressure adjustment for the valve or what any body no. I have a 97 power stroke that when i start it cold idles fine as engine warms it starts to miss . I have changed everything i mean everything but ipr and map sensor.
View 1 RepliesI have a recently rebuilt 400 with a mild cam and Tmeyers flat top pistons. The carb is a 600cfm edlebrock that was bought new and installed a few months ago.
The issue I'm having is if I'm driving around and shut it off to run in the store its hard to start when I come back. I end up having to floor the gas to get it to start. When it's cold I tap the gas and turn the key and she lights right off. Could this be an issue with vapor lock? Why does it go away if I floor the gas?
Only other thing going on is when accelerating the engine runs noticeably smoother above 2700rpm. It's a little boggy below that. Probably two different problems but I figured I would throw it out there.
I have an 1980 Ford F-150 with an inline 300. I just installed a new egr valve on. Here is the problem:
After the engine warms up with everything connected, the engine starts to cut out and die while idling. This is due to the VCV opening up and allowing vacuum to the EGR. My question is why is this happening? The EGR is not suppose to open up during idle.
Have a 1977 ford f150 with 351m with a motorcraft 2150. Had ( who I believe was a reliable source ) rebuild carburetor for me and after putting back on I can only keep engine running with foot on pedal. I turn idle mixture screws all way in and then proceeded to back out equally. This does not appear to be doing anything. I did turn the choke 2 notches to lean and was able to get it to idle but it wasloping so bad i shut it down and put the choke back to the middle setting.
View 13 RepliesWhat to do next. Engine is running on 4 cylinders, #1, 4, 5, 8. Had a mice nest on top of injector #2. Removed mice nest. The mice had chewed through wire for #2 injector and caused bear lead rubbing on the block. One lead rubbed through. Repaired, splised in a wire. Also changed rotor, rotor cap, all sparkplug leads and plugs.
Troubleshooting.
Compression on all 8 cylinders measured to be above 160 psi.
There is spark to all 8 cylinders, including the other 4 cylinders, 2, 3, 6, 7 that is nor developing power.
Fuel rail pressure is 35 psi on idle and spikes to 43 when reving the engine.
The fuel injector resistance all all measured injectors are the same (about 14.8 Ohm). Measured injector # 1, 2, 5, 6, 7, 8. Injector # 3 and 4 is hidden and require too much disassembly. Visual inspection deems wire for #3 and 4 injector to be ok on top of block.
Electric impulse (tested while engine was running) to injector # 1, 5 and 8 are ok, used test lamp to see that there are electric impulse to the injectors. Injector #2, 6 and 7 does not have any electric impulse. Unable to check electric impulse to # 3 and 4. However cylinder #4 develops power. Used moving the sparkplug wire for cylinder #4 to verify that is is developing power.
What would my next step be? Where should i look next?
1. Where is the control module and is it likely to fire to only 4 cylinders
2. Could it be an wire in the pickup element, under the distributor. All wires seem intact.
4150 Holley 532BBF float adj issue . I think i have it close, but its so hard to tell because the engine shakes the vehicle so much its hard to set the floats so that it just trickles out of the float holes. (532 kasse P51 heads, big roller cam) Is there an easier way to do it say on the bench?
View 1 RepliesMy engine is running rich, flooding? My truck is a 1986 F-150 302 EFI. The engine idles rough, black smoke and soot comes out the exhaust pipes, and black soot on spark plugs. Symptoms seem to disappear if I throttle the engine and hold it, but as soon as I release the throttle the symptoms reappear and in most case causes the engine to die. These symptoms have just started a week ago. What the problem is.
Fuel injectors are cleaned and rebuilt. New plugs and wires. All new fuel pumps and filters. New air filters. New fuel pressure regulator. New dual function reservoir. New 3-piece timing set. New O2 sensor. New EGR Valve and sensor. New idle air control valve. New distributor, cap, and rotor. New ignition coil. New high volume oil pump. New alternator. New pcv valve. New knock sensor and air charge temp. sensor.
I have 2 70's trucks, one with a 360 and one with a 390. Which I don't think makes any difference. The problem is, I experienced poor operation in that after driving for a while engine showed symptoms of reduced performance and stalling and shortly stalling all together. It would not restart even after changing fuel filters and checking pressure. It has a two barrel holley. I took the top off the carb to check for debris in the jets. What I found was a clear jelly like substance. I pulled it out and set it in the open air. After a few minutes it evaporated. I concluded it was something like alcohol created by the vacuum in the carb. After that the truck ran fine until it happened again a few days later. Always after sitting it would restart. When it did not I found the substance in the carb. Now I have the same problem with the other truck. It sounds like a few of the cylinders are starving for fuel and the carb is all but new with twin fuel filters. Ignition is fine on both trucks after hooking up the scope. What is this crap and how to get rid of it?
View 4 RepliesI went to move the 2000 yesterday and it will not start because the gas went bad. It has been sitting about 6 months, since it did not snow this past winter. How do I go about cleaning the fuel system? I was thinking suck the gas tank empty with an electric fuel pump, and blowing out the lines with air. Does this sound right?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2003 F250 7.3 auto 4x4 SD ... has done 616000kms and is getting a bit rattily and injectors are getting tired . Have found a 2001 7.3 engine that has 130000 miles on clock . Will the 2001 engine fit into my truck .... e.g.. bell housing and crank bolt spacing's, mounts for all the bolt on bits ... is it quicker to take engine and box out or just engine ?? have even read on here that body removal is necessary .have a forklift and workshop available
View 2 Replies2001 F-350 7.3L / 147K... Lately my truck has a strange anomaly when I take off from a stop. A few seconds into a routine gradual acceleration the engine gets a little "boost" without changing anything on the accelerator. I typically take off from a stop as if an egg is under my foot. And then bam! It's as if I romp down on the gas pedal. Not a lot of increase in rpm's and acceleration, just a hint. BUT NOTICEABLE! Even my wife wondered why I was playing with the accelerator. And, it only does it that first time you start it and take off. I had the glow plugs replaced last week. And it has done it occasionally before but increasingly since. No other changes other than pulling codes.
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