Why my 1995 f150 might decide to all of a sudden reverse the timing when i put trans in gear and step on the gas? would work well if it were supercharged. when idling in park, i hit the throttle it spikes to 10*atc then back too 15-25*btc, timing stays normal. when i put it in gear, brakes on wheels chocked, and i rev up the engine, the eec retards the timing and keeps it there! wtf?
View 12 RepliesTruck is a 74 250 390/auto tran. 2wd. When I am at a stop and then step on the gas (not hard) it will sometimes backfire then die. Then I can start it up and it'll run fine. The only other times it backfires is if I am doing about 40 or higher, take my foot off the gas, and let it coast down to around 33mph or so then step on the gas it'll backfire once and run fine. If I am at a dead stop and punch it it will also do some backfiring, usually killing it.
Other than these times it runs fine. I've adjusted the carb (I know not correctly) and that does work if I set the idle higher. Is it possible my fuel pump is going bad? I was always told a mechanical fuel pump pretty much either works or doesn't. If it is a possible pump problem should I test it or just replace it...
I have a 2008 F-150. When moving gear selector from park to either reverse or drive, trans has a delay engaging. After engagement, it runs fine, shifts ok, downshifts ok....
View 7 RepliesI've got a 2003 Accent and my automatic transmission went out, no reverse and the only forward gear is 1st. Was thinking of pulling it and swapping it for a used, but I have been reading on here the many, many automatic transmission problems of the accent and my next thought was to just rebuild it myself. But now I'm thinking more along the of a swap from auto to manual, as I don't want to have to rebuild a transmission that is only going to have to be rebuilt again anyway. As far as stuff like the clutch pedal, linkages, gear shifter, I can get those pretty easily. Does the Accent have a hydraulic clutch?
View 2 RepliesI have an 04 Jetta 1.8T that I recently acquired and have a problem with a noisy manual tranny. Reverse is a bit noisy (more than usual) and when I get on it in 1st and 2nd gear it sounds like an awful whining noise. I have been told it could be either a bad throw out bearing or input bearing? BTW this thing shift perfect, like butter, no grinding at all.
View 4 RepliesOutside of lawnmowers, this is my first carbureted engine. I have always fixed stuff that broke on the vehicles I've owned, and done some difficult (for me) task such as replacing a timing belt on a honda, and mcpherson strutts and a head gasket on a 4 cylinder SAAB.
I'm the new owner of a '68 F100 that was originally a 3 on the tree inline six. It's been converted to an FE390 with an automatic transmission (C6 I believe). It has an edelbrock 1411 (750CFM). I've recently got it running at idle of it's own gas tank. This is the list of work I've performed since getting it.
Replaced:
old gas
old oil
brake master cylinder
old dot3
plugs and wires
I also added 3-4 quarts of F-type tranny fluid.
Related to the Carb all i've done is removed it and dumped some carb cleaner in the bowls.
The Problem is:
Car starts and idles fine. When I drop it into any gear, the engine bogs down and begins to idle much slower. If i feather the gas pedal, or punch it, the engine dies.
I'm told that the carburetor had some components replaced (springs/jets) to make it run properly, so my guess is that it is closer to a 1407 now, just with electronic choke. I'm intimidated by tearing the carb apart and attempting to rebuild it, but I'm willing to do it if that's what it will take, I'm also willing to buy a new carb to avoid 12 hours of work trying to fix the existing one, but I'm afraid I'll have tuning issues beyond my capabilities even with a new carb. Also, the truck doesn't have a tach to assist in the tuning process.
I'd love to bolt something on and start driving, but I'm guessing it won't be that easy. Is it most likely a carb problem? Any recommendations on what I should do, considering my total lack of experience with carburetors?
I have a 2001 E350 van with the 4R100 Transmission. It had a severe and sudden leak develop in the trans cooler. The driver noted trouble getting the vehicle into gear, into reverse, but ultimately drove it about 25 miles until it stopped unable to go up a hill. Once stopped, the leaking fluid was obvious from smoke & fluid over the back of the vehicle.
It was towed to a local shop (not a transmission shop). They put 9 quarts of fluid in and started the engine hoping to see the transmission functional but only leaking from the cooler. Instead they found it not operational and no fluid coming from the leak. They assume the pump is ruined to the point of not pumping fluid at all.
Is it likely that the front pump is the only damage? Can I pull the unit swap the pump & put it back in service? What else (if more damage is likely) would a transmission repair shop find? What about a used transmission?
I have a motocrap 2bbl on my 73 f-100 all stock 390 when I drop it into gear she wants to sputter and stall without warning at idle runs great but put a load on and forget it what is wrong with this thing?
View 4 RepliesMy truck will be running real good then all at once start missing so bad it shakes gear shifter,spits and pops and then goes back to running fine.
View 1 RepliesIf I press the gas a little hard in drive, my tires squeal but if I'm in reverse I can feel a slipping in the trans. If I try to back a trailer up an inclined driveway, it won't go, the trans slips. I have no crud in the pan. I've replaced the reverse boost valve. I installed a Trans-Go kit which is suppose to eliminate the reverse slip but it hasn't worked. Everything else works just fine and my fluid is red. I have engine braking in 2nd and 1st. The van backs up fine, it just does this in reverse under load.
View 2 RepliesI have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
I have a 2008 prius. Usually it gets me around 52-55mpg, I've had it since January. Since a couple of days ago its not giving me anything above 49. I know thats a normal number, but considering the fact that its usually quite a bit higher I'm wondering what the cause of the drop is. Also around the same time, when I pull out of my driveway I notice what appears to be a bit of water leakage. Its under the vehicle in the front center, and it only happens when I start the car for the day and pull out of my driveway (its on an incline).
View 4 RepliesSo I was installing my head spacer. When i got the head off I noticed the upper two timing chain rails were shot. The tensioner rail has wear marks from the chain and a small crack in it. Is it possible to change these upper two rails without dropping the transmission?
View 5 RepliesI went to move the 2000 yesterday and it will not start because the gas went bad. It has been sitting about 6 months, since it did not snow this past winter. How do I go about cleaning the fuel system? I was thinking suck the gas tank empty with an electric fuel pump, and blowing out the lines with air. Does this sound right?
View 7 RepliesI have a 1997 f250 2wd 8800lb with dual tanks with the 5.8l. Recently the truck will all of a sudden stop running, always at idle. I switch to the other tank and after 5 secs. of cranking it starts. Switch back to the front tank runs fine. Same thing happens the next day, 3 consecutive days now. Is this something I can fix at home or do I need to get the truck to a shop.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Ex limited 7.3 4x4 with 196k on it. I bought a new snow plow two years ago and the first season, my transmission went out during a plow job. It had about 175k on the truck and I bought it with 155k with no real knowledge of any work being done to the transmission. So, I had a local transmission shop rebuild the transmission. The owner has done plenty of transmissions for my family in the past with no issues. Once I got the truck back, the reverse was lagging. I didn't recall it being that way, so after month or so, I took it back in to him. It was about 7 seconds to shift to reverse.
He replaced a solenoid and valve I believe. That supposedly fixed the issue and got it down to about 3-4 seconds. I drove it for a month or so then took it back when I was plowing and the reverse went out. He dropped it and went through it. He said the check ball went through the backing plate. He repaired and now I am driving it, but still not happy with the reverse lag and it's out of his warranty period. It's irritating day to day, but when plowing snow, it'll drive you mad! I'm no transmission guy, and not sure why it's all of a sudden different than it was prior to rebuild.
2001 7.3L I purchased used with 200K on it. Trans hesitates going from 1st to reverse and reverse to 1st. It seems more pronounced going from 1st to reverse. Fluid is clean.
View 2 Replies Daughter driving truck truck quits moving, I get there no drive and no reverse, has low and 2nd manually.
drive truck home, flush trans and cooler, road test all ok. this was 3 weeks ago.
This morning did it to here again, no drive and no reverse, she drove it home using manual low and 2nd.
I get in and when put into drive it feels like it tries but doesn't go all in, same with reverse. pulled it into low and vola I now have drive and reverse again
I'm thinking a we may have a bad or going bad shift solenoid. What I need to know is, is any of the solenoid valves on when in reverse are they the same as when in drive?
I have a 98 4door 4x4 auto. Reverse stopped working a year ago. The forward speeds work perfectly. I hate to have to rebuild the entire trans. I've been driving it some, being careful where I park, but getting tired of it. My question is do you have to pull and take the trans all the way apart to fix this?
View 7 RepliesI got myself a 1997 explorer Australian model when I got it (here's the problem) if you put it in drive it will not engage but if put in first will drive normal then shift into second all good now u have push O.D then shift into drive all good (unless u slow down to almost a stop) ? New problem is, it has gone and lost reverse, put it in reverse and it engages with a small clank (normal) but just slips with any revs. I have read posts here talking about upper and lower valve body gaskets and transgo shiftkit which I have ordered but do there maybe more parts needed? Cause it's going to cost me lot just to put transmission fluid back in.
View 4 RepliesMy 1999 7.3l Disel 4x4 transmission quit on me the other day. No forward or reverse. Got towed to my regular repair shop, and they are treating the transmission as a black box and recommending total replacement. The diagnostics they performed were to make sure it was shifting, and that indeed it wasn't going forward or reverse. They drained the fluid and said "it's pitch black" and said it had to be completely replaced.
Fluid level was OK, and it wasn't hot. I was driving along, and merging onto the highway. It downshifted, shuddred, and nadda. Free rev. I coasted to the next exit and into a parking lot. Verified that it was shifting, checked Rev and all forwards. It wouldn't shift into 4W, and 1-2 also wouldn't move.
I'm trying to figure out what might have happened... and if it's worth trying to have the truck towed to a transmission shop and have them diagnose and rebuild, vs just getting a remanufactured transmission. None of the local wreckers have any used transmissions, and the cost between a reman and a used is pretty negligible...
Not sure what the symptoms points to for exact failure mode, be it the torque converter, pump, input shaft, etc... I've never had an automatic transmission apart before, but built plenty of motors and am a machinist by trade. My preference is to try and root cause the failure...