Ok I finally got my truck to start, but it dies instantly. I had a friend of mine who is a mechanic look at it and he said gas wasn't filling up the front bowl, but gas was pumping? Could something have happened when the carb was rebuilt?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Silverado 5.3 with 145,000 miles. It runs great, lots of power and starts immediately, except for the other day. I drove to work and it was up to full operating temp, shut it off and came out 2 hours later and it cranked just fine and fired but died immediately. Repeated attemps got the same results. It would run for about 1 second and die. I tried starting it about 10 times in a row. I tried it again an hour later and its run perfect for the last 2 days, no hesitations.
The outside temp was about 65.
No check engine lite or any other lights came on.
No weird sounds.
New battery.
The fuel pump was changed out at a reputable Chevy dealership 3 years ago and about 40K. I haven't checked for any codes, or fuel pressure. It acts like a fuel pump failing, hiccups once in awhile and then leaves you stranded when you least expect it. But.....It started up instantly after sitting for an hour, meaning it had fuel waiting in the wings. I am thinking its likely electrical, a sensor? But shouldn't I be getting a light?
I have a 2002 Toyota Echo that had been sitting for a few months. Recently I tried to start it and it will not start. It sounds like it is wanting to start and occasionally starts for a brief moment but then instantly dies. I have been doing some research to see what could be the problem and my guess is that pulley on the ac compressor is not turning.
My first question I guess is whether that sounds correct or could it be something that I am overlooking.
My second question is, if it is the compressor, how can I fix it. I do not want to replace the compressor, I have seen how much this can cost. I would prefer to just eliminate the ac all together. I saw a question on yahoo in a similar case where someone mentioned a bypass pulley, but I haven't been able to find any for my vehicle.
I have a '77 F250 with a 460. (Under edit) It has a holley 750 carb. (under 2 years old). It ran fine for about 2 years and now all the sudden it seems to not get enough fuel. I have a clear fuel filter on it and you can see that it is full of fuel when I first start it up. Just letting it sit there and idle after about 5 minutes it starts to show air coming through the lines and it gets worst the longer it runs.
If I take it out on the road and drive 55 it will be about 1 or 2 miles and it acts like it's not getting fuel. I stop and open the hood and check the filter and it is empty. What could cause this? I took it to an old Ford machanic and he has checked the fuel pump, fuel lines, sending unit, and gas tank. He is at a loss. I am no mechanic, but I am mechanicly inclined. I can't see it would be that hard to figure out. What do I do?
I just rebuilt the Autolite 4100 on the 390 in the 62 T-Bird I just purchased. Starts up and idles great, but when I apply slight throttle, the motor shuts off. If I apply a lot of throttle quickly, it picks up fine and drives with no problems. No sputtering, or backfiring. I just slightly apply the throttle, the RPMs drop, and the motor cuts out completely. Starts right back up when I turn the key, but does the same thing, at any temp.
I originally thought it was a vacuum leak, but checked what few vacuum lines there were, with no leaks to be found. Hooked up my vacuum gauge and it read at a steady 15psi.
New mechanical fuel pump, haven't checked the fuel pressure yet, but I installed a see through inline filter, and it's filled up and pumps fine.
Timing is at 8 degrees, and vacuum advance is hooked up to the only vacuum line in the carb. New cap, rotor, plugs and wires.
I adjusted the idle mixture screws down until the idle dropped, then turned them out a half turn (I've read on here it should only be a 1/4 turn, so I'll adjust that later today). When I was messing with the carb yesterday, I noticed the inlet check ball retaining screw was leaking a bit of fuel, so I went over the carb and checked all the screws and tightened down what needed it.
When I rebuilt the carb, I left the original needle & seat assembly, since they were in great shape, and the ones in the rebuild kit were much smaller. The choke plate needs to be adjusted, as it doesn't open up all the way at full temp, but the engine did the same thing with the plate held open all the way open.
I've gone through everything else I think it could be, so I'm figuring it's the carb. This is my second carb rebuild ever (first was a Motorcraft 2150) and it went smoothly, and I double checked the floats and measurements.
I have an 84 Bronco II with a fuel injected 302 in it. I was out wheeling with it the other day, and it was doing great until about 3:00. I got out to see that my brothers radiator had sprung a leak. When I got back in my Bronco and put it in gear, it just stalled. I started it back up and it ran for about 10 seconds then shut off. It kept doing that over and over again. Finally, I got tired of it and had someone get my truck and tow me out of there. Why would it run for about 10-15 seconds only and then shut off like it was getting no fuel (yes, it does have fuel in it)? I have a feeling it might be fuel pressure regulator valve because it was acting up a while ago..
View 10 RepliesOutside of lawnmowers, this is my first carbureted engine. I have always fixed stuff that broke on the vehicles I've owned, and done some difficult (for me) task such as replacing a timing belt on a honda, and mcpherson strutts and a head gasket on a 4 cylinder SAAB.
I'm the new owner of a '68 F100 that was originally a 3 on the tree inline six. It's been converted to an FE390 with an automatic transmission (C6 I believe). It has an edelbrock 1411 (750CFM). I've recently got it running at idle of it's own gas tank. This is the list of work I've performed since getting it.
Replaced:
old gas
old oil
brake master cylinder
old dot3
plugs and wires
I also added 3-4 quarts of F-type tranny fluid.
Related to the Carb all i've done is removed it and dumped some carb cleaner in the bowls.
The Problem is:
Car starts and idles fine. When I drop it into any gear, the engine bogs down and begins to idle much slower. If i feather the gas pedal, or punch it, the engine dies.
I'm told that the carburetor had some components replaced (springs/jets) to make it run properly, so my guess is that it is closer to a 1407 now, just with electronic choke. I'm intimidated by tearing the carb apart and attempting to rebuild it, but I'm willing to do it if that's what it will take, I'm also willing to buy a new carb to avoid 12 hours of work trying to fix the existing one, but I'm afraid I'll have tuning issues beyond my capabilities even with a new carb. Also, the truck doesn't have a tach to assist in the tuning process.
I'd love to bolt something on and start driving, but I'm guessing it won't be that easy. Is it most likely a carb problem? Any recommendations on what I should do, considering my total lack of experience with carburetors?
2006 ... HV battery changed over 4 months ago and car ran fine until last week when the car just stopped and won't get ready. Before that incident, the vehicle was running fine all day, while he was returning from the days chores in the evening, it just stopped, dashboard all lit up. After a while, the car started again, and he was able to move it away to the side of the road...just about 2 meters and it stopped again.
View 15 RepliesI just purchased a 1989 F250 with a 5.8 motor. Great truck for its age. Ive owned other Ford trucks in the past and my Dad had them as a kid. Love them.
When I bought the truck from the 2nd owner it had a problem so I bought this truck with the problem figuring with my past knowledge I could fix it. Not the case. When I got the truck it would start fine and run really great but when it got warm it seems it would die and I would have to wait till it was cooled down to start back up and again it would run fine. Well the problem got worse and worse and now it wont run at all.
It will run on starter fluid so that leads me immediately to the fuel pumps. I say that plural because none of them will run it seems. I did a fuel pressure test at the shrader valve at the top of the motor on the fuel rail and I get no pressure at all when I turn the key. The relay in the engine compartment seems to be working to as I can hear it. I put a new on of those on to to be sure. Leads me back to the pumps again. I replaced the external pump on the fuel rail and I know thats working. I replaced the fuel filter to while I was there.
Is it possible to have BOTH fuel pumps in the front and rear tanks go at once? Seems unusual. My other F150 with dual tanks worked great and when the back tank pump went I could just switch it over to the front tank.
I just recently bought my 2002 F250 Lariat with the 5.4 and 76 thousand miles. I love this truck but I've started to notice a few things with it. When i go to start the truck it sometimes starts but then instantly shuts off. When i try it again it takes a long time to crank over. This has happened in cold and warm weather. What the problem could be and things i could do to prevent it?
View 2 RepliesI work in a automotive garage and am having a problem with this truck. It starts then stops instantly, I scanned it and know it is the security feature shutting it down. I have done my homework and found I have to bypass the passkey system by measuring the resistance between the yellow and orange/black wire at the tumbler. I did this and got 33.2, I got a resistor and soldered it in and the vehicle does the same thing.
History on this vehicle 1998 c1500 is it sat with a dead battery for the last year and a half, i don't know if this is relevant. Also i was told all I should do is connect the yellow wire straight to the black wire.
Bought my DTS with 46,000 miles, one year ago. I have driven 31,000 miles since. Once in a while, maybe once a month, at 65 or 70 mph it will just hiccup once and keep going. Just one quick miss. About 6 or 8 times in a year it has just died going 30mph or pulling into a driveway or up to stop sign. It does not sputter or miss, simply just dies instantly. So far it has always started right back up. The only code it has ever shown, was mass air flow sensor twice. It looks ok and I did clean it.
View 1 Replies2002 Camry, i was gonna remove manifold & 1st step was to pull relay to relieve fuel pressure(which it did) but then i needed to use car so i put it back now car turns over & immediately sputters-out unless i depress & hold accelerator. Also, fuel in tank is very low, in case that could be culpable.
View 3 RepliesMy truck starts and runs fine cold. after 10 minutes or so of driving, it starts choking and stalls. If you try to start it, it will not. If you wait about 3 minutes, it is fine, starts , and drives ok, for about 3 minutes. I have replaced, plugs, fuel filter, battery, and a ignition module, as well as cleaned the opening of the throttle body
Ford has ordered a fuel pump, I am thinking it could be the
-Throttle position Sensor?
-MAF sensor?
-fuel pump?
It puts out code p0191 for low fuel pressure. Ford is scheduled to install new pump in am, but I don't want to spend a grand if it is just the TPS or MAf?
My 1986 Ranger 2.9 starts only when I spray starter fluid into the air intake. It does stay running and it drives fine. The engine will not fire up unless I do this process. I have cleaned out the fuel rail, fuel injectors, purchased new fuel filter, and tested fuel pressure (which is good).
View 9 RepliesI've had the EV mode switch installed since the day I bought my Prius. Its great for coasting down the hill when I first start out, or to move it around my garage / driveway. But yesterday, I wanted to see if I could make it home (2-3 miles, mostly downhill) in EV mode. So as I was driving, I puched the button, it beeped twice meaning it wasn't going to engage, and I pushed it again, just to show it who the boss was. The EV mode did not engage, but now everytime I let go of the gas pedal (car warm, under 45 mph, battery above 2 bars) the engine shuts off instantly!
View 19 RepliesI have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
About 3 weeks ago I bought 2014 Prius Two. Was purchased as A Certified Pre Owned. At first I thought I just got a bad pump at the gas station. It's now been 5 fill ups at three different stations and same problem every time.
The fuel pump clicks almost instantly when trying to fill. I've tried different angles and manage to get a few gallons in before it prematurely clicks. I've resorted to holding the pump at the minimum flow to to get a consistent flow until fill up.
Car is under warranty so will probably just take it to the dealer. If it something quick and easy fix I'd rather just do it myself over the weekend.. I've ran the gas low most fill ups and topped off.
I went to move the 2000 yesterday and it will not start because the gas went bad. It has been sitting about 6 months, since it did not snow this past winter. How do I go about cleaning the fuel system? I was thinking suck the gas tank empty with an electric fuel pump, and blowing out the lines with air. Does this sound right?
View 7 RepliesI have a 1996 ford taurus lx 3.0 v6 engine dohc about 150000 miles..when i start the car about 5 mins the car dies..so i start it back up then it dies again.. So I start it back up then i keep my foot on gas the car stays running as soon i take my foot off gas it dies. I did have a new fuel pump in..
View 12 RepliesTruck starts right up. Will die if I dont give it some gas for about 5 seconds of so. No check engine lights. I did leave the hood open yesterday adn the auto sprinklers came on. I completely forgot about it. I check the air filter before I started it and its dry so I dont feel its water intrusion. I shot a quick burst of carb cleaner in the IAC and then reinstalled it. No joy. When running it will idle and runs fine. If I unplug the IAC it stumbles and almost dies. Any way to test the IAc, TPS or MAF sensor ? I hate just throwing parts at them without diagnosing them properly.
View 14 Replies