Ford Fuel System :: Shuttering / Shaking After Replaced The Bowl Gasket
Sep 26, 2010
My problem is I bought an 85 motorhome with the 460. After getting it home I realized the accelerator pump was leaking. The engine ran great and I drove it home over 100 miles. After pulling the carb I replaced the pump and put it back on. Then I had a big leak from the secondary bowl gasket, but the engine still sounded great. When I replaced the bowl gasket then I got a leak from my metal fuel transfer line between the bowls. Engine still sounded and idled great. Pulled the carb again and this time replaced the front bowl gasket the 2 o rings on the fuel line and put it back together. Now I have no fuel leaks but the thing would kind of Idle but it shuttered the motorhome like crazy and then die. It would start right back up and do the same thing.
So I had a leak. Engine ran great. Then I replaced
Both bowl gaskets
Both o rings on fuel rod
Accelerator pump and that' s it
What could my problem be. I have only made one adjustment and it was to the IDLE screw to keep it from dying but it still has the shakes.
View 5 Replies
Advertisement
I just changed the drain valve on the fuel filter bowl. All went well and no more leak, but now I am getting an "emission system" warning light.
After I replaced the valve, I filled the fuel bowl with diesel fuel. Was there any other priming that needed to be done (if any)? What the emission system warning light may mean?
2002 F250 7.3L 4x4.
View 2 Replies
The gasket blew out on the choke (tube) plate on my 460. The one that sits on the engine with the tubes running up to the choke.
Do I need to apply a gasket sealer when I replace it or does it just go on dry? I've read some conflicting opinions on it. A tad on the corners to hold it in place. Put it on dry or put sealer on it.
I know when I remove it I will be able to tell but since I don't have any hi temp sealant. I'd rather buy some when I get the gasket than go back.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2007 Ford Expedition with approx 135k miles with a 5.4. At approx 45 miles per hours it starts shaking and shuttering. It feels almost like you ran over one of those traffic bumps. I've had quite a few issues I've been working so I recently changed all my plugs with motorcraft platinum and all new COPs.
When I am going approx 45 miles per hour it will shutter for about 1-2 seconds with overdrive on. You can almost time it that it will do it every 4 seconds. With overdrive off, you can feel something dragging down the engine and hear a light grinding noise or a mechanical sound but the shuttering is less. I feel there is something definitely cycling approx every 4 seconds.
When i am doing heavy acceleration I feel that it has adequate power and now that I've replace the plugs/cops I don't feel any significant misses etc under hard acceleration (before I changed the plugs/cops I did feel misses).
View 8 Replies
Ok, I've replaced the fuel filter today and my truck still won't start. Checked fuses, and Fuel relay (19th slot). I've found the red fuel switch and it doesn't depress so I suspect it isn't tripped. I'm out of my league if I have a fuel pump problem.
View 6 Replies
2003 6.0 no start. turn the key to on and nothing happens. dash lights up as it should but I don't hear the glow plugs cycle and no fuel gets into the upper fuel bowl. turn the key over and nothing happens. No starter click nothing. tried the starter wire to the battery trick and it cranks but does not kick over. checked ficm wires and they are secure as well as the injector wire on the intake manifold. it is the original ficm.
View 6 Replies
New to me early 99 (4/98) f350 7.3 6 speed. Truck started acting up a few days after I bought it. Return line at fuel bowl was leaking, so started there and found a bad seal on the Fpr (unrelated to the fuel leak due to disentegrated compression sleeve). Fast forward through a bunch of parts swapping that still resulted in miserable lift pump pressure readings, I pull the sending unit out of the tank, expecting to find a plugged screen.
Well, there was in fact a plugged screen... Attached to the bottom of an in-tank pump. How did that get there?!? Everything I've read says there should only be a pickup tube??? Should I get a new sending unit from a junkyard and do the hutch mod or???
View 9 Replies
Should the upper fuel bowl be empty after sitting for 30 minutes?
I believe no. Which would indicate to me a stuck open injector which Iv been suspected of. Iv been trying to track down a miss that I have and Iv been suspicious of a bad injector but ain't been able to pinpoint which one yet.
View 8 Replies
Trying to fit my edge fuel pressure sensor. I have a 90* fitting from Diesel O-rings and I can't seem to get the 90 elbow to turn all the way down before it makes contact with the fuel bowl housing. I'm using the drivers side port, should I use the passenger side port? would it have more clearance than the driver side port?
My instinct is to crank it all the way down then tighten the nut, should I just screw it in until it makes contact then tighten the nut? I was worried it wouldn't have enough threads in contact to seal as well as it should and leak.
View 3 Replies
I want to build a fuel bowl delete/regulated return fuel system for my 2000 f250 . I would like to make a really neat kit and attach all products used so people that want to build their own would have a useful source. I understand that it will probably cost the same but I want to design my own and route it the way I want . I have 3/8 1/2 5/16 and 1/4 stainless tubing as well as a bunch of unions and 90* 45* fittings and a couple tees. What size is the ports for the fuel lines that go into the four corners of the heads . I am a pipe fitter pipe welder by trade so this is basically a mini version of what I do everyday at work. Looking for some size details of the head port sizes so I can get the correct fittings?
View 3 Replies
I've had an engine oil leak for some time. Recently I've had to add about a quart a month. I got some fluorescent dye and added it to the engine oil last time I added a quart. Ran the engine for a few weeks. Then cleaned the engine valley with cleaner and hot water.
Tonight I investigated the top of the engine with a black light. To my surprise, the oil leak is coming from the fuel bowl, right around the drain valve. I can clearly see about a drop every 3 seconds of fluorescent yellow liquid falling into the valley below and yellow all around the valve.
I expected a leak from the HPOP not the fuel bowl. Do I have a bigger problem? Is engine oil getting into the fuel? I plan to replace the seals in the fuel bowl, but not until I know whether I have a larger problem to address.
2001 F250 Crewcab, 220,000 miles
View 11 Replies
2004 F550 with a 6.0. I had to clean out my fuel tank, replace the HFCM and filter on top of the engine. When I start the truck it will run for 30 seconds or so, start running rough then die. I opened the cap on the fuel filter housing on top of the engine to make sure the fuel was getting there. I turned the key on and the fuel bowl quickly filled up.
After a short time however, the fuel drained out. To where I do not know. I don't think this is normal as every time I've changed the upper filter on a 6.0 it is always full of fuel. Why could this one be draining out and could that be the issue why the truck dies after starting and running for a short period of time. I changed the o-ring on the cap and the new HFCM was purchased from Ford.
View 13 Replies
I've thought I smelt diesel fuel on an off for a while, but never found the source.
Tonight, 17 degrees out I have fuel in the valley and it appears as if the back of the drain valve is wet.
A fuel bowl rebuild is on the short list. Is this typical, the cold weather brings the issue to light?
View 10 Replies
I have an isspro gauge and did the blue spring about 5 years ago. Since then my fuel pressure is in the 65psi range.
Last week it dropped to 50-55 normal driving and I figured the HFCM was on it's way out (195,000 miles). Replaced the HFCM and the pressure was a bit higher, but not back to it's usual range. Then pulling the boat home from the lake a couple days ago, I saw it at 45psi. On a couple hills it went as low as 40 psi, so I was getting gripped...coasting downhill it only went back up to 50 psi and no higher. Got 'er home and currently not driving it.
In garage with Key On Engine Off, during injector buzz, I can hear a hissing/air noise at the upper filter bowl. Also, the bowl drains empty once the pump cuts off and the sound of air stops too.
I am hoping it's a regulator issue, but I don't know if they are known to wear out or go bad, or if something else in the upper filter housing went bad. So I ordered a new upper fuel filter housing which also has the oil filter tower attached and I'm assuming that these new units would come with the blue spring upgrade already done.
I can check for codes tomorrow when I bring my computer home from work, so I haven't checked for codes yet. I pick up the new filter housing tomorrow and will periodically check back here during the day tomorrow.
Also, while I'm at it: the new HFCM doesn't have the heater. Can I just leave the old connector from the harness un-connected to anything?
View 12 Replies
Had the ole factory fuel separator/bowl drain start leaking on me about a month back. So i ordered and installed a new one, issue fixed. Well last night the fuel leak started again, I looked everywhere and i cant see anywhere else it may be leaking at. I felt the underside of said piece and it didn't feel wet, but the valley is full of fuel.
I got in there and tightened the 4 bolts down some more, they were tight but i got a some turns on em and am hoping i either didn't tighten it down enough or they maybe backed out some. Now just gotta see if that solves the problem, again.... the replacement is a doorman, the o-rings were bigger/thicker than the factory orings on the old part, of which the o-rings were shot.
Like I said once i replaced the part the leak stopped for 3 weeks until last night. If the tightening of the bolts doesn't solve it where should I look next? I have an FRX mod but i checked all that and its dry as a bone around all the fittings by the bowl and the heads. No indications of leaks anywhere around any of the FRX assembly.
View 14 Replies
I have a 1983 Nissan Sentra with a Hitachi carburetor. The fuel in the float bowl seems to drain completely after sitting for 48 hrs. Is this normal? If not, what is the solution to preventing this fuel loss?
View 7 Replies
I have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
View 8 Replies
So my issue, had heat last year, turned on first time this year and its cold. So I did some research on the site and have done a few things but still no heat
First thing I did was flushed coolant system and add new coolant as I have 235,000 miles on the truck and it looked rough
Ran the truck for a while and checked heater core hoses, they were both warm, not hot by any means so I pulled the thermostat and replaced the thermostat and gasket
Now the hoses to heater core are both hot and my temp gauge went up about 1/4" higher than it ever has, but still no heat.
Blows fine, just cold or sometimes luke warm. I pulled the glove box back to try and see I I could hear anything when I change from hot to cold and I hear or see nothing. Only movement I see is when changing cycles from defrost, heater, ac... So could this be a blend door issue an how do I get to the blend door, is it behind the big plastic plenum box?
View 14 Replies
I just finished replacing the Valve body gasket in my 99 ranger with the 4.0 liter v6 with the 5r55e trans. My problem now is that I have no gears i can shift it but the gears do not engage.. I did install the updated bonded separator plate and the tsb for the blow off valve with it.
View 6 Replies
So i replaced my IAC(Idle Air Control) Valve and the idiling is much better! However my shaking/jerking has not stopped. I have found the problem which is the exhaust manifolds! I was wondering if when i replace them which i am probably going to get headers should i use metal gaskets?
View 14 Replies
I've got a 2011 XLT. The front rotors have been turned twice already in 39k miles. Once at 12k and again around 24k covered under warranty. It starting having vibrations on the highway and shuddering when braking again around 36k. Tired of dealing with the OEM rotors and told it would no longer be covered under warranty I went to Autozone and got duralast rotors and pads for the front.
Swapped them out Friday
- took caliper off
- removed pads
- took caliper bracket off
- swapped rotor
- opened bleed valve to push back piston(used a vise/c clamp combo)
- closed valve with piston under pressure
- put in new pads
- placed caliper bracket back on
I did not remove the pins, they seemed to slide fine and the remaining hardware still looks fairly new.
Took it out all was good, bedded the brakes a bit and called it a night. Come out this morning and start to head out and it's shaking like crazy now once above 40 mph. Made it back this afternoon and took the passenger side off and its not making full contact with the rotors. I've read this can be common until the pads are broken in. Driver side appears fine, pads appear to be bedding fine and nothing looks out of the ordinary, I took the caliper back off but had to open the bleed valve to get it loose enough to let go of the pads.
I've even taken the passenger side back off and reset the piston again just to make sure.
Put everything back together and take it for a spin. Truck seems worse now even at slow speeds 25-50mph. Once the brakes start getting hot from stopping the shaking goes away. When the brakes start cooling back down it comes right back.
Going to swap back the OEM rotors and retest in the morning. Will take the new ones back If that puts it back to normal I may just replace with OEM ones then. The brakes work perfect it's just the shaking that I can't seem to figure out.
Anything to check? It seems like the new rotors are warped
View 14 Replies
