Ford Fuel System :: Power Valve Check Ball
Apr 10, 2009
What a dilemma, somewhat of a novice, about to rebuild Holley 1850 for 2nd time in past 12yrs and dispite a number of backfires over the years does not appear to have damaged the 'power valve'. Purchased the Hly 125-500 check ball kit, although the installation appears fairly simple, taking a drill to my throttle plate I have some reservation. Any members familiar with the upgrade, considering returning the kit and not risk, thru operator error, ending up replacing carburetor.
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I have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
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Well I have a 2150 carb on my '82 truck, I looked in my parts and illustration guide and found what should be a fairly close overhaul kit for my truck based off it being a non high altitude truck and it has A/C and its a 302 with C6 transmission 2 wheel drive.
Down side is the power valve that came with my kit is a two stage power valve and I currently have a single stage power valve.
If I were to use this two stage power valve where would I buy a replacement two stage power valve cover?
Ive been looking but cant find any anywhere and I am to the point of figuring out what power valve my truck has currently so I don't have to put my only vehicle down for multiple days for a simple carb rebuild.
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1994 150 300 6. parked truck after lunch finished work and it wont start no fuel comes out of the valve. Can't get the pump to work even when jumping the 6 pin. heard the relay click still nothing. Checked the inertia switch it wasn't popped. Took the pump out jumped it straight from the battery pump works . I know there has to be something i am missing...
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I just changed the drain valve on the fuel filter bowl. All went well and no more leak, but now I am getting an "emission system" warning light.
After I replaced the valve, I filled the fuel bowl with diesel fuel. Was there any other priming that needed to be done (if any)? What the emission system warning light may mean?
2002 F250 7.3L 4x4.
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What's the best way to changed a EGV valve on a 1996 Ranger? The metal line coming from the exhaust manifold to the EGV valve, is seriously rusted on both ends. It looks like if I don't heat the metal line, the line will just round out, what's the best way to tackle this job.
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Replace this when they got a code p0440? If so, which way did you go about replacing? if so, did u have to drop the tank or from cutting from underneath the seat? Is this the same location as from the 1st gen is300?
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cant figur this out have no signal to injectors and no power at fuel pump 88 f150 5-0
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Just wondering if your fuel drain valve leaks at the knob when you are draining for water? I opened mine yesterday to drain it for the first time and fuel went EVERYWHERE!! Unlike the 6.4 that I was able to use a bottle to capture the fuel in, my 6.7 leaks around the knob and comes out the drain port. After some very colorful words, I got it drained and then closed. I mean, why put a drain port on it if it is going to come out around the know and soak you.
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I recently purchased an 06 f150 fx4 5.4L with 60K miles. Just recently my check engine light came on and I've noticed a slight rough idle in park. I took it to autozone and the code read P0422 evap emission leak. Bought a new fuel cap but didn't work... EGR valve?
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I am scheduled to leave on a trip in the morning. I have installed an 85 gallon in bed auxillary fuel tank. I plumbed it in as per the instructions and the same as the last two I had in other trucks. After install I pumped 25 gallons in the aux to see how it worked. Every thing worked right. So yesterday I filled both tanks to the top and left the shutoff between them open.
This morning I noticed a puddle of diesel on the shop floor. Wiped it up and left for the golf course. Got home and found another puddle. I have closed the shut-off valve but it still seems to be leaking. It is not the plumbing I installed. It's hard to tell because I have a protector around the tank but it seems the leak is coming from the top. I just took a short run down the highway and reparked it. I have a can't miss appointment so when I get back I'll see how much has leaked.
Is there some kind of overflow on top the tank? Everything is dry where the aux tank is plumbed in and the air pipe seems to be fine. If the leak stops with the shutoff closed then I'm just gonna head out but if not then I'm gonna take down the shield and see what I can find, but I'd sure rather not.
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If the fuel relief valve is stuck open would it possibly throw a P1316 code?
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I recently purchased a 2002 camry 2.4l 198k miles from a friend. His mechanic said engine was on it's way out so the next day after work the car didn't turn on so he thought his mechanic was right. So he told me about it and said it needed a new engine so me being a guy that likes to purchase broken down things I got it. I had it towed home and was going to mess with it on my free time.
So today I got under the hood and first thing I did was spray starting fluid in the intake. It turned on and was running good then shut off. First thing I'm thinking is fuel pump. When I disconnected the fuel line to the fuel rail and primed it it had fuel gushing out.
So now I want to check if the fuel pressure is right. I know the 5th generation camrys have a different fuel system that's kinda new to me. ( I know I'm out dated, I mess with diesels and older Hondas) so my question is what steps or processes of elimination steps should I take to keep this car running? How do I test the fuel pressure system on this car? Oh and before I purchased the car he said he "super filled up" the tank.
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Have some clunking I can feel through the steering wheel. Starting with checking ball joints.
1999 explorer Eddie Bauer.
Would I jack it up on the control arm to release any tensions? Any tips or tricks after doing a visual to find my clunking?
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I have a very small fuel leak in my 2001 F-250. I was going to just let it go until I needed to do other work (since I get 20mpg city and 25mpg highway), but I went to a "new" inspection guy, and he flunked me. So now I have to fix it. And for all I know, my mpg and fifteen other things will break when I try to fix this.
Today I spent 4 hours in the heat putting in two new o-rings on the water separator valve. But the truck still leaks fuel. Climbed up on top of motor while it was running and looked, but I don't see where the fuel is leaking out.
Online research suggests to me that the next most-likely culprit is a steel fuel line that wears through from vibration and chafing. Is that correct?
This truck is so eaten up with rust (came from salt belt) that I bought a LOT of fuel line stuff a year or so ago, so that when things started falling apart from rust, I would have the parts on hand.
Now I'm wondering whether I already have the part I'm likely to need.
So far, I have bought:
1. Dorman Fuel Supply and Return Lines
2. Riff Raff Diesel High Pressure Crossover (HPx)
3. Riff Raff Diesel Fuel Rail Crossover (FRx)
So my question is, am I likely to have something to replace the part that commonly leaks on these trucks due to vibration/wear/chafing ... or will I still need to buy another part?
I'm thinking that one of the two lines in item #1 above is the problem child...
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My low fuel light came on tonight. I drove about 2 miles, stopped and shut the truck off. When I restarted it and began to drive off to the fuel station a notice came on that isaid power reduced then a check engine light came on. I was about a mile or less from the fuel station so I filled up. I cycled the key but the engine light is still on. No low power message tho. The power is fine.
I came home and drained the water drain on the filter, didn't see any water but hoped it would solve the problem. I cycled the key a few times and started the truck but the light is still on. My truck is a 2013 f350 6.7 and has 211500 ish miles on it. I bought it a month ago with 18500 miles and haven't had any issue until tonight. My only thought is maybe the fuel filters need changed. I don't know if or when the previous owner changed them.
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We have a 2003 Passat 1.8t. Had the Check engine Light come on. Went down to AutoZone and hookeded up the OBDII reader. Came up with P0171, Fuel System for Bank 1 was too lean. Probable causes:
1. Fuel Pressure of MAF (If Bank 1 & Bank 2 set codes together)
2. O2 Sensor
3. Ignition Misfire
4. Fuel Injector Problem
Car has 60K - has always run well. Wife says she thinks it's running a bit sluggish. I rarely drive the car, but I think she's right. Car is not missing or running rough.
I cleared the code & started the engine; Check Engine Light is off; then looked at the codes and I find a P0171 (Pending). She tells me that the light has been on before & then gone away. So I guess it clears itself, but eventually comes back.
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My wifes 2007 Santa Fe Limited 3.3 has had a check engine light going on a year now. Car has about 122k on it now. Scanned codes about 6 months ago and had a fuel system lean code. Did some reading and ended up replacing the purge valve. The CEL stayed off til the end of the drive cycle and came right back. I have noticed when you fill the car up there is a real strong smell of gas but the car always starts right up. It now has a P0171 Fuel system too lean (b1) and P2187 Fuel system too lean at idle. Where to start. Don't have much background with hyundai. Also the ESC off light comes on randomly and goes off. Doesn't happen real frequently though.
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I have an 05 Toyota corolla, and have the check engine light on, I scanned it at autozone and error code is P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1). Which shows following possible causes: Faulty MAF, O2, fuel injectors blockage etc. On recommendation from the guy in autozone, I added fuel additive to clean the fuel line/ injectors. The check engine light went away for 9 months. But it is back on again. Tried putting in fuel additive again but the light remains on.
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I have the dual tank setup & this is my problem.
Last year I replaced both tanks - the front was leaking bad and rear was starting to leak. After replacing both tanks, the rear tank (which I was using before) was unusable - it would idle fine and when applying throttle would stall out. The front tank's gauge did not work.
This week I pulled both tanks. Had new gauge assembly put on front pump unit. Also had the rear pump replaced with a new (rebuilt?) one. Installed both tonight. Now the front tank is running fine with a gas gauge. I Filled up the rear and once I had about 16 gallons in, fuel started leaking from the front top of the tank it looks like (where in-tank pump is). This leak has continued as the truck was turned off too. I think it may have stopped now, but its dark and I am parked on a hill. As another problem, I still have the same "stalling" problem. The rear will idle fine, but start to stall out when a load has been applied.
So to summarize:
- What is causing it to want to & stall out?
- Why am I leaking gas?
It seems to stop dripping gas after (maybe) the pressure is lower from leaking the gas out. Also, when 1st starting it up on the front tank, it wants to stall out...probably from the gas that leaked out while it was shut off? The truck will run for about 1/20th of a mile on the rear tank when initially starting it up before showing signs of stalling.
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I have a 1986 27ft Class C RV on a E350 chassis, 460 ci with about 140,000 miles on it. I inherited it when my Dad passed. I live in the southwest and I am have trouble with it, it seems to be a fuel supply problem, I think?
It runs fine on level ground, but we tried to go to the white mountains this weekend and could not do it. On an incline the engine would start to starve for power. At times we could only drive at 25 mph! It kind of seemed like it was running out of gas, if I tried to give it more throttle it would just die or fall on its face, if I let off the pedal and gave it gas again, it would run for a bit and then do the same again. We were lucky to get it back home. I replaced the electric fuel pump (on the side of the road) during the trip, but that made no difference.
The engine ran cool the whole time! it has only one 40 gallon tank. I can find any other fuel pump on it. but don't understand all the lines going to and from the gas tank either?
I noticed there are these silver metal tubes that feed off the exhaust manifold up to a cylinder looking thing on both sides of the block. One of the tubes is broken from the ex manifold and the manifold is plugged. Not sure how this got damaged or what this parts function is but was wondering if this could be a problem ..
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