Ford Fuel System :: Location Of Check Valve That Maintains Fuel Pressure On The System?
Jun 29, 2014
I have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
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What a dilemma, somewhat of a novice, about to rebuild Holley 1850 for 2nd time in past 12yrs and dispite a number of backfires over the years does not appear to have damaged the 'power valve'. Purchased the Hly 125-500 check ball kit, although the installation appears fairly simple, taking a drill to my throttle plate I have some reservation. Any members familiar with the upgrade, considering returning the kit and not risk, thru operator error, ending up replacing carburetor.
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1994 150 300 6. parked truck after lunch finished work and it wont start no fuel comes out of the valve. Can't get the pump to work even when jumping the 6 pin. heard the relay click still nothing. Checked the inertia switch it wasn't popped. Took the pump out jumped it straight from the battery pump works . I know there has to be something i am missing...
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I recently purchased a 2002 camry 2.4l 198k miles from a friend. His mechanic said engine was on it's way out so the next day after work the car didn't turn on so he thought his mechanic was right. So he told me about it and said it needed a new engine so me being a guy that likes to purchase broken down things I got it. I had it towed home and was going to mess with it on my free time.
So today I got under the hood and first thing I did was spray starting fluid in the intake. It turned on and was running good then shut off. First thing I'm thinking is fuel pump. When I disconnected the fuel line to the fuel rail and primed it it had fuel gushing out.
So now I want to check if the fuel pressure is right. I know the 5th generation camrys have a different fuel system that's kinda new to me. ( I know I'm out dated, I mess with diesels and older Hondas) so my question is what steps or processes of elimination steps should I take to keep this car running? How do I test the fuel pressure system on this car? Oh and before I purchased the car he said he "super filled up" the tank.
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for the past week we have been trying to figure out what is wrong with our truck. We recently bought it and it ran fine. Then got in a minor accident just a fender bender and it started acting up so I got towed to garage. First it would run when cold, but when hot fuel pressure would drop to 28 psi.
So I put new fuel pump, it started but still did the same thing hot 28 psi fuel pressure shuts off. So I put regulator on it, then had 0 fuel pressure won't even start. So got a another regulator thinking I got a bad one, still 0. Checked relay, there fine. I'm gonna check lines and see where fuel stops at but everything is new on it.
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Working on a 88 Ranger 2.9L 5-speed ext cab. The fuel pressure drops off fairly fast when turned off and I'm pretty sure that the check valve is bad. My question is, which pump has the check valve? It is a single mid tank set-up and has a pump in the tank and on the frame.
Pressure is fine while running. about 30psi @ idle and 40psi with no vacuum on the regulator. The pressure drops off within a couple of minutes which causes it to have to crank over for a bit to rebuild pressure and start.
It looks like the frame pump is readily available while the in take pump is special order. I just need to know which one has a check valve. I'm thinking the in tank pump, but I hate to waste money for the wrong pump.
Pressure drop rate
30 psi @ shut off
25 psi @ 1:05 min
20PSI @ 2:30 min
15psi @ 4:45 min
still dropping
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I have a 1988 Ford F-250 Lariat, 7.5L 460, four-wheel drive. I have two fuel tanks on it, and I've been having a really annoying, obnoxious problem with it lately. After running it for a while, I noticed that I keep losing fuel pressure, and the truck stalls. When I try to start it, it does nothing but roll over. It just won't start. I've changed the fuel filter, I know both fuel pumps are working (I turn over the key, I can hear front, back, and high pressure pump attached to the left side frame rail kick in.) It's Fuel Injected, not EFI, hence that third pump. The problem happens a lot, and it's random. I could drive for 100 miles, stop to get something to eat, come out, and it won't start.
I thought maybe it was the fuel pressure regulator, but I don't think that's the case because it still runs. I would assume that if the regulator was bad, it wouldn't run at all. I also thought that maybe it was the relay, but according to some mechanics I spoke too, if I can hear the pumps kick in when I turn the key over, then the relay is fine. The only thing I could think of is that it might be the fuel selector switch. Maybe it's going bad, shorting out or something. When I flip the switch though, it switches between fuel tanks, and the gauge reads how much fuel is in it from the sending unit.
There's a schrader-type valve up by the fuel injectors. When I push it in, it barely squirts any fuel out, if at all, so I know the pressure is low. When I push it in on a good day, it sprays out like a water fountain. Just tried starting it again - no good. Pushed on the valve, it spurted out some fuel pretty well, but still won't start. Occasionally tries to, but ultimately won't. I know the spark is good, checked the plugs/distributor cap. Can't get the sucker to start.
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I am a newbie as far as fuel injection. The original issue the truck had was no fuel. I tracked down the issues to a blown fuel pump relay and a melted inertia switch. I jumped the inertia wires with a new fuel pump relay installed and the truck ran at an idle and up to 3500 RPM when stationary. If the truck is going up a grade or needs more throttle it will start to lose fuel pressure and end up stalling. I had the fuel pressure gauge connected to the schrader valve on the fuel rail and had 30-35 PSI when idling. It runs good under light load on the throttle.
Under heavy load it starts to drop quickly and if you back off the throttle it will stay running some times. I changed the fuel filter and also replaced the high pressure pump on the main frame and it still has the same problems.The original pump was pumping about 13 ounces of fuel in the 20 second test that the repair manual suggested. I have even placed a jumper wire direct to the new fuel pump to bypass original wiring and possible problems. When it stalls under load (No Fuel pressure) at the schrader valve you can hear the fuel pump running but there is no fuel pressure.
If I turn off the ignition for a few minutes and then turn the key back to the on position it will start to pressurize and then start and run at an idle. I even replace the ignition switch as it was a little temperamental. I have not changed or checked the fuel pressure regulator as it is a pain to get to at the back of the engine. I do not want to spend a fortune tracking down this problem since the truck may not even pass its smog inspection and may be a parts truck only.
67 F-250 4x4
73 Crew 4x2 (4x4 Soon)
89 F-250 Super Cab 4x4
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Would like to replace the 2 1/2" aluminum ported 4bbl spacer down to an inch or so. Finding it difficult locating 'ported' aluminum spacers, however, there are several brands of the 'composite' type?
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Well I have a 2150 carb on my '82 truck, I looked in my parts and illustration guide and found what should be a fairly close overhaul kit for my truck based off it being a non high altitude truck and it has A/C and its a 302 with C6 transmission 2 wheel drive.
Down side is the power valve that came with my kit is a two stage power valve and I currently have a single stage power valve.
If I were to use this two stage power valve where would I buy a replacement two stage power valve cover?
Ive been looking but cant find any anywhere and I am to the point of figuring out what power valve my truck has currently so I don't have to put my only vehicle down for multiple days for a simple carb rebuild.
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I went to move the 2000 yesterday and it will not start because the gas went bad. It has been sitting about 6 months, since it did not snow this past winter. How do I go about cleaning the fuel system? I was thinking suck the gas tank empty with an electric fuel pump, and blowing out the lines with air. Does this sound right?
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What's the best way to changed a EGV valve on a 1996 Ranger? The metal line coming from the exhaust manifold to the EGV valve, is seriously rusted on both ends. It looks like if I don't heat the metal line, the line will just round out, what's the best way to tackle this job.
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I just changed the drain valve on the fuel filter bowl. All went well and no more leak, but now I am getting an "emission system" warning light.
After I replaced the valve, I filled the fuel bowl with diesel fuel. Was there any other priming that needed to be done (if any)? What the emission system warning light may mean?
2002 F250 7.3L 4x4.
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I need to check the fuel pressure to verify if my fuel pump is functioning. What is the procedure and PSI?
Assume that I open the valve on fuel rail with engine off, then connect pressure tester kit, put key in ignition to "on" position, then pump up to specified PSI???
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I stopped and when I started the SF the engine light stayed on. I shut it off and checked oil. Oil good. When I started it again it didn't start as swiftly as it normally would. Since I still had 150km to go in the dark I decided to give it a whirl as the alternative, like waiting for a tow truck, would be many hours.
Max rpm, about 2000. Give more gas and it sputters. Eventually nursed it to maintain 80-100 kmh at the 2k rpm. Since it was mostly downhill I continued to at least get closer to civilization. Found sort of a sweet spot and was able to maintain 100kmh on level ground and lost some on grades. Engine was running smooth.
As it turned out I made it home. Total milage on SF: 58,250 km. Guess I'll see what the dealer says on Monday.
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This van has had a couple of fuel pumps, no surprise there, and i need to look through my paperwork and find out how many miles the current one has on it, but it has the STRANGEST habit I've ever had on any vehicle. Starts fine, runs fine, no fuel pump noise when van is running, and when you turn it off, the fuel pump creeks on and off for several minutes.
I mean a strange creaking noise almost like a shorted electrical device or a vehicle's brakes when you park it on a hill and the breaks creak as it settles into place. I'm probably doing a lousy job of describing this but i don't know how else to describe it!
ALSO, if you lay under the van and wait til it stops creaking, you can tap the bottom of the tank and it will creak for a few more seconds. You can tap repeatedly and make it creak more. Is it about to explode? Can i trust it on a road trip?
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I have a F-250 4WD with 7.5L which has a MC/Holley 4180c sitting on top. It was getting very poor mpg (like 5-6 miles/gal) and then was getting harder and harder to start. This progressed rather quickly to not starting with fuel coming out of the primary vent tube. I suspect it has to do with the primary float stuck open. I was considering rebuilding the carburetor. Is this over reaction prematurely or is there something like float adjustment that may rectify all of the symptoms described. If a rebuild is in order what is the information I would need to ensure getting the correct rebuild kit. Info that I have so far from research is it is Motorcraft ID #E5HE-9510-MC.
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What would make a FI engine act like its flooding out and dying after a short run on the freeway?
Details:
1994 F-350 351W (just overhauled this winter)
has new TPS, ICM(?).
Dual exhaust dumps right before the tires
new filters in tanks, new fuel filter on frame rail
All fuel lines have been opened and blown out from the tank to the engine compartment fitting near firewall.
Fuel pumps hold good pressure when tested.
Symptoms:
smells like its running rich most all the time
after a short hiway run @ 70MPH it will stumble and die when returning to surface streets.
fuel smell near engine sometimes, but no obvious puddles or leaks anywhere.
May be related?:
When on a longer highway run, I can't use the FWD tank for a long period without the engine stumbling and cutting out or popping at times. But I can swap to the rear tank for a bit then run the FWD tank again for a while. driving up hills it seems to be worse, but I'm in the panhandle of TX right now..good grief!
I am having to drive this truck for work long distances. While I dont expect a vast fuel range, it would be nice if I could go a couple hundred miles on 20 gallons of gas....
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I just bought another 1991 Ford. This one is a 1/2 ton XLT Lariet with the 302 and for the first time I own a short bed. I also have a 1991 F-250 XLT with a 460 and a 8' bed.
Here is the problem, ( I think) it will not run or at least not for long. The fuel pump, which I am guessing is in the rear tank will not stop running. On the F-250 the pump stops running after a few seconds after I turn on the key.
Where should I start to find out my problem with the fuel system?
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I have a 95 F150 4x4 reg cab long box with a 302 V8 and dual tanks... I was driving around yesterday when my truck started to lung and then the motor stalled... when I stopped moving I tried starting the truck and it started with no problem, so as i kept on my way, about 5 minutes later the same thing happened and it stalled again, (I have an automatic by the way). but this time before it stopped moving i pump the gas a few times and it fired back up and then stalled again... i switched from my front take to by back maybe thinking it could me my fuel pump in the tank but it did the same thing again about same time later... Would it be my fuel filter on the frame (like in line fuel filter) or why is it doing that? its EFI by the way.
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My vehicle:
1976 F150 2wd Extended cab
390 4bbl
c6 transmission
4BBL Edlebrock Carb
Dual fuel tanks, only rear main tank connected
My problem: For the first year I owned the truck, everything ran fine and it started up really quickly even after it sat for a few days or a few weeks. I have since, for about the last year or so, had to crank it for 30-45 seconds to get it to start. This all started around the time my fuel pump went out. I replaced it with an Airtex fuel pump from Autozone. I also installed a glass in line filter before the carb in front of the distributor.
I noticed that after about 4-6 hours, the fuel had drained out of the filter and that's when I would have to crank it forever to get it going. It also seems like there is no fuel in the carb as it doesn't even try to start when it first gets cranked. I thought this was a bad pump, so I bought a new one last week and tried it again. Sure enough after about 4-6 hours, everything is empty again and it takes forever to start it. So it's not a bad pump, or so I think.
The other day I backed it into my driveway and left it, something I never do. I checked about 4 days later and there was still fuel in the filter. This makes me think that gravity is making it drain back to the tank.
Is there something that would cause this? Also I have found a one way fuel check valve online that is supposed to remedy this type of problem. Do they work for this situation? Or is there something else I should be doing to fix this? It has taken a bit of a toll on my starting system having to crank so long all the time. I have so far had to replace my starter, starter solenoid, and all the battery cables, starter cable, terminals, etc. due to excessive wear.
The valve I found is here : [URL] .....
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