Ford Fuel System :: Leak At Accelerating Pump?
Mar 8, 2010
I got a 4180 carb and at the accelerating pump I got a leak I wound up putting in the wrong screw so I had to retap the hole put a heli coil for 8 32 screw and now that its tight it has a leak don't have a lot of funds right now so I'm trying to find a solution that is not going to cost to much and forgot the count on pri needles and I got a backfire as of right now and not sure what adjustments need to be made or locations of what to adjust. I need to get back to work and its hard to do without transportation.
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This van has had a couple of fuel pumps, no surprise there, and i need to look through my paperwork and find out how many miles the current one has on it, but it has the STRANGEST habit I've ever had on any vehicle. Starts fine, runs fine, no fuel pump noise when van is running, and when you turn it off, the fuel pump creeks on and off for several minutes.
I mean a strange creaking noise almost like a shorted electrical device or a vehicle's brakes when you park it on a hill and the breaks creak as it settles into place. I'm probably doing a lousy job of describing this but i don't know how else to describe it!
ALSO, if you lay under the van and wait til it stops creaking, you can tap the bottom of the tank and it will creak for a few more seconds. You can tap repeatedly and make it creak more. Is it about to explode? Can i trust it on a road trip?
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I just bought another 1991 Ford. This one is a 1/2 ton XLT Lariet with the 302 and for the first time I own a short bed. I also have a 1991 F-250 XLT with a 460 and a 8' bed.
Here is the problem, ( I think) it will not run or at least not for long. The fuel pump, which I am guessing is in the rear tank will not stop running. On the F-250 the pump stops running after a few seconds after I turn on the key.
Where should I start to find out my problem with the fuel system?
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I've had a fuel leak near the pump of my 79 F150 with a 400 for some time. I didn't know exactly where it was coiming from, but fuel was being sprayed on to the oil filter from something near the pump. I assumed it was the steel line, and that it had rusted through or cracked, and was going to replace it when I had a chance. I was poking around today though, and realized that the fuel was not leaking from the line, but from a hole in the side of the mechanical pump.
For someone who knows what these pumps look like, there is a horizontal cylindrical bump out near the top of the pump, on the side of the pump that is away from the engine. The fuel is spraying in a mist out of one side of that. To me, it always seemed to be a screw channel, but I didn't think the pump was 2 halves put together? Need to know more about my pump, what that bumped out section is, or why/how fuel could be spraying out of it.
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Why the frame mounted fuel pump might run after the key is turned off? Then when you turn the key on it may or not run. If it does run it keeps running. shouldn't this shut off after pressurizing the line? is their a pressure switch in the pump that's failing? This has the 3 pump system...
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I have an 87 F150 4x4 4.9L EFI with a single tank. Fuel pumps keep running even when the key is off. I tried swapping relays but the problem still exists. The engine will start and run OK for about 15 secs. then die. I installed a new low pressure pump, high pressure pump seems to be OK. I also installed new fuel filters. I dont want to just throw parts at this truck, where do I go from here?
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I have a 1994 Ford 460 motorhome with a intank fuel pump that quits when it gets hot. so I was thing of butting a heavy duty in line pump on and just pull it through the old pump can this be done safely. Or is it best to drop the tank and just put a new fuel pump in.
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My F250 heavy duty isnt getting voltage to the fuel pump relay.....
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I was letting my truck idle to work on a cooling issue when I noticed oil coming from my fuel pump! What would cause this? It wasn't coming from were the pump bolts to the timing cover it was coming out of the side of the pump it looked like? I'm going to get a new one.
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Have a 95 Bronco with 5.8, I turn the key on and fuel pump doesn`t shut off. Changed fuel pressure regulator still no shut off. Changed relays, no luck. Have 38 pounds pressure with key on, but no start. Checked spark just in case, and have fire. Don't know what to try next.
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It started out w/ my wife swapping from the front fuel tank to the rear tank due to the fuel qty getting real low. Then the next day when I drove it I had bad fuel qty and amp meter indication, I found a blown fuse on my fuel qty/amp meter gauges. I replaced the fuse and got my indications back. Now I hear my front tank fuel pump is running constantly when selected to its position. Its now full of gas and still runs constantly. The rear tank/pump operates normal. I am wondering if I ran that pump empty and lost its prime? What is the best way to burp it?
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Pulled codes awhile ago...got a 96. Says "Fuel Pump Circuit Open"-Battery to ECA (1988 On). What is an ECA maybe the Pump Relay? And does this thing have a fuse for the fuel pump in the panel. Fuel Pumps not getting any juice.
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Working on my cousin's 84 F150 351w HO with a Holley 4180 4bbl and auto trans.
I rebuilt the carb because of sticking floats (that and it was filthy and sitting). It fired up and I drove it to my uncle's shop a ways down the road before even adjusting anything. At the shop, it fires right up, idles great and floats and idle mixture screws are now adjusted.
It has a dead spot right off of idle that's been driving me crazy, and stalls in gear if I'm not careful with the pedal.
After reading around here, I looked down the carb to make sure the fuel was squirting as soon as the throttle moved, and noticed there was NO FUEL squirting from the nozzles. So that explains the dead spot...
There was just the needle, then the nozzles, then the screw that went in, same as they came out (only cleaner). Wondering where to go from here to get these working again. Going to pull the nozzles off and see if there's anything obvious going on in there.
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Ok so my son and I are new to this whole truck restoration thing, but we're eager to both learn. We recently scored a 77 F250 camper special that's sat for about 14 years. When we bought it it was running. The previous owner had done quite a bit to clean it up. When we got it to the house we drove it around a bit for fun, and parked it until we could drop the tanks to clean them out. That's done, we've replaced the fuel sensors in both tanks, the lines are clear based on us blowing air through them from the engine side back to the tank side before connecting to the tanks. The mech. fuel pump is brand new and seems to have suction when we turn the truck over. We've installed a fuel filter before the pump in an effort to filter any possible residual junk out of the lines, but we can't get fuel to the engine! (Yes we put gas in both tanks.) The truck will run when we run a line Direct from the pump to the a gas can, but not when connected to the tanks. What could we be missing?
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I'm dripping fuel on top of the engine at the fuel filter . Where the line ties into the filter canister, there is a small plate that's attached with small Allen screws its dripping between this plate and the canister .... I assume there is a gasket/oring that is causing it ...... What is the part number or correct description so I can go to ford dealer and get one. It's a 2007 Ford 4x4 6.0 diesel.
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I have a 77 f-250 with a 460 engine and a 4bbl Motorcraft carb and its leaking a substantial amount of fuel out of the newly replaced filter that is attached to the carburetor. The fitting is tight and I even tried buying some small gaskets to seat it, but that didn't work either.
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I recently purchased a used 1999 F250 Super Duty with about 150k miles on it. The truck runs great and I have no complaints but there are a few things that need to be taken care of. It looks like there is a very small fuel leak where the filler neck ties into the rubber hose that runs into the fuel tank. There is a thin film of diesel along the side of the tank, on the leaf spring, the air bag and various other places. Nothing is dripping. I want to drop the tank and replace the hose. The Haynes manual says to depressurize the whole fuel system--is this really necessary if I don't plan on doing anything to the system aside from dropping the tank?
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I have a 4160 on a 351 Ford. I confess, it's a boat!
I had a major flat spot when accelerating off idle. I found it wasn't pumping on the accelerator circuit.
I replaced the accelerator diaphragm and cleaned the squirts and the passages. It squirts great now, but if I floor it, it completely bogs. If I baby it really carefully, once the engine gets over about 1800 rpms, it acts fine.
I thought it over, checked the travel on the arm that presses the diaphragm, and figured my pump cam was worn. It "seemed" like the duration of the squirt was not long enough.
I got a new cam kit. The orange cam on my carb was not a bit worn compared to the cam in the kit. Not encouraging. I put the only other cam in the kit that I thought might work. It was blue, and it gave more lift but no greater duration. It did not make any difference that I can tell. Is there a transition circuit I might have problem with? I don't know enough to go any further.
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Engine is a late 60's 390 with a C6 auto in good shape with a purported rebuild of about 10-15K miles on it. I picked up a nice condition Autolite 4100 and rebuilt it. Original tag states "C5AF AV" and below that in smaller font: "A 5AC" The base is stamped 1.12. It has the auto choke and auto tranny kickdown.
Truck has been sitting for 4 years so I drained the gas, primed the oil and added 5 fresh gallons. Started up on the second try!! But it won't idle and wants to die unless I feather the gas until it warms up. Also has a bog when accelerating up past 1200 RPM. I've been checking for vacuum leaks but none so far found.
I have a number of questions. But one of the areas I believe I need to correctly adjust is the float level, and here is where I can't get a clear answer or clear explanation of the correct procedures. What is the correct float level? My Sorensen rebuild kit actually had multiple values and the one that looked best had different primary and secondary values. I tried setting it "dry" by the upside down check with the cardboard supplied gauge. Good news is that it is not overflowing so needles and floats seem to be working correctly.
However, how do you do a more accurate wet setting? Appears to be two methods - one is the float setting and the other is the fuel depth. One good thread seems to state that both wet floats should be at 11/16". An engine builder locally said they should both be about level/parallel. Autozone says the primary should be 20/32" and the secondary should be 1 1/16". My rear wet float is almost level and it measures about 15/32". NONE of the data I've been able to find agree on the right setting nor do they explain in detail the correct way to measure using the wet float method.
I've got more questions like the choke settings and the vacuum port for hot air intake (currently open) and only getting 14 inches vacuum (I believe it should be 18 inches) etc., but I'd like to get the floats right before tackling them.
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I had a fuel leak at the pump cover (I straightened the cover) and am ready to install the new diaphragm. The old one came out with the rivet head side upward and the pump lever riding on the protruding pin side. Which is correct? This is on an 85 F250 with a Motorcraft carb.
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I just purchased an 87 f250 w/ a carb'd 460. I purchased it with the mech fuel pump swapped out to an electric. The previous owner states that they gave him the wrong electric pump and I should exchange it for a different one. The reason for him putting it on was to get it running for me to hear it run.
My question: Is this even recommended? I wouldn't mind staying with an electric pump up front. If it is recommended, what would be a suitable pump to replace it with, as in flow/feeding characteristics?
Also, it only feeds from the rear tank, which also has a bad fuel pump. I'd like to get both tanks functioning again. I'd rather not deal with the tank switching valve due to what I've read about them. Has anyone ever hooked up a manual valve and just switched tanks that way? I've searched this site extensively and couldn't find anything. I know I'm not the first to have thought about it.
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