Ford Fuel System :: Idles Very Rough - Gas Smell
Jul 2, 2013
The carb on my 460 in my truck is acting funny. It almost sounds like a dragster It Idles really rough. I tried setting the Idle mixture screws on the side of the metering block. I bottomed them out and them turned them out 1 1/4 turns. I started turning them in till I got the highest reading on my vacuum gauge, about 13 hg. The screws are only about 1/4 turn from being bottomed out. It was running smoother, then it stalled when I restarted it, it started running really rough again.
The exhaust smells of gas. I turned the screws all the way in just to see what would happen, I thought it should stall but it didn't. I had my timing light hooked up and checked it now and then during all of this and it didn't change at all. The screws had almost no resistance to turning, shouldn't they have some resistance?
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I just rebuilt the Autolite 4100 on the 390 in the 62 T-Bird I just purchased. Starts up and idles great, but when I apply slight throttle, the motor shuts off. If I apply a lot of throttle quickly, it picks up fine and drives with no problems. No sputtering, or backfiring. I just slightly apply the throttle, the RPMs drop, and the motor cuts out completely. Starts right back up when I turn the key, but does the same thing, at any temp.
I originally thought it was a vacuum leak, but checked what few vacuum lines there were, with no leaks to be found. Hooked up my vacuum gauge and it read at a steady 15psi.
New mechanical fuel pump, haven't checked the fuel pressure yet, but I installed a see through inline filter, and it's filled up and pumps fine.
Timing is at 8 degrees, and vacuum advance is hooked up to the only vacuum line in the carb. New cap, rotor, plugs and wires.
I adjusted the idle mixture screws down until the idle dropped, then turned them out a half turn (I've read on here it should only be a 1/4 turn, so I'll adjust that later today). When I was messing with the carb yesterday, I noticed the inlet check ball retaining screw was leaking a bit of fuel, so I went over the carb and checked all the screws and tightened down what needed it.
When I rebuilt the carb, I left the original needle & seat assembly, since they were in great shape, and the ones in the rebuild kit were much smaller. The choke plate needs to be adjusted, as it doesn't open up all the way at full temp, but the engine did the same thing with the plate held open all the way open.
I've gone through everything else I think it could be, so I'm figuring it's the carb. This is my second carb rebuild ever (first was a Motorcraft 2150) and it went smoothly, and I double checked the floats and measurements.
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I just bought a 1991 F150 with a 302 (5.0). It idles at around 2600-2800 RPMs. The previous owners replaced the TPS and IAC, but it still idles fast. Ford dealership told them it was a vacuum leak. Are all the vacuum lines close to each other? How easy is it to locate/fix the problem?
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Ok new issue that started yesterday only get it at idle. Runs great above idle no real power loss or change in fuel econ. Haven't really had a chance to test much. I was thinking maybe a injector issue but I don't know
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I have a 2000 Ford Explorer with 4.0 SOHC engine, I have had some cold start problems. I cleaned the IAC and the problem went away for a few months and then came back. Two days ago the temps got very cold and it would not start at all, I re-cleaned the IAC and still no start. I replaced the fuel pump with an aftermarket pump and engine started right away. Now I have a rough idle, bad skip and bad exhaust odor. I am still thinking IAC but I am concerned that the aftermarket fuel pump is pumping to high pressure or that I may have crimped the return line. I have driven about 30 miles hoping the computer would make adjustments, still runs rough and the check engine light has not come on.
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I built the 400 in my 79 a couple years ago and it runs very well...until yesterday. I'm about 80 miles into this tank, and on my way home from work, I thought I felt a vibration (not in the steering wheel, but in the front oc the truck). Then the engine became evident it was running rough and was skipping and surging. I stopped.
It idled pretty rough, then died. Fired right back up, ran rough, and died. Sometimes it would idle smooth for several seconds (20-30) then start surging and skipping and die. I could hold a little throttle and it would run about the same, except some backfiring in the exhaust (more like a big hiccup).
The carb is a 670 Street Avenger with nothing really done to it. The bores are really black (not sooty, more damp or so). I have always used the air filter, so that's odd. I took the carb off and removed the bowls. Nothing inside has a dirty or clogged appearance at all. Not sure if I should completely rebuild it.
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I just had a former Ford tech rebuild my motorcraft 2150 2v on my '77 F250. I took it home, put it back on the truck and it ran kind of rough. I then went ahead and screwed both idle mix screws in untill seated, then back out two turns. The truck ran great, turned off truck then when it the house for dinner. Half an hour later I come back out...truck will not start, just sits and cranks. Finally got it started and it ran good, but crapped out after it warmed up. I have made sure there were no vac leaks when truck was running the first time. Did I adjust the mixture right?
The truck is a '77 F250 400/C6
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I have an 86 F150 that is idling rough. It used to cut out on me until I replaced the fuel pressure regulator. I have read in other posts that the problem for my rough idle could be leaking injectors. When I replaced the regulator I found a bad injector. My question is that if I check my fuel pressure, with the new regulator, would the only way I would lose pressure be that my injectors are leaking?
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Yesterday I started up my Phaeton after it had been sitting for about almost a week. When it turned over it had a rough idle and also a fuel smell, as I drove it the idle went away. However I have never had this happen before and the fuel smell concerned me.
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2004 f150 fx4 w/ 5.4 .I have a code that read " system adaptive fuel to lean bank 1 " and the same for bank two. So, I got on here and did some research. Cleaned the throttle body, maf sensor, air filter, looked for vacuum leaks, changed the fuel filter and it still is running very poor at idle and it seems to be getting progressively worse...
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I recently purchased an 06 f150 fx4 5.4L with 60K miles. Just recently my check engine light came on and I've noticed a slight rough idle in park. I took it to autozone and the code read P0422 evap emission leak. Bought a new fuel cap but didn't work... EGR valve?
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I have recently purchased a 2001 Accent GS which has the 1.6L DOHC engine and have done a big road trip in it which has created a problem. When I fill the fuel tank up it runs really rough, has no power, and stalls at idle unless I keep the revs up. I can also smell petrol very strongly in the car all the time, plus it's running really rich as I can smell fuel on the exhaust and the last symptom is the loss of power down low(due to running rich).
I was on my road trip so had no tools on me and got the local mechanic of a small town to do a few basic things (change spark plugs, leads, and fuel filter) but to no avail. It runs smoothly when it gets below the full line on the fuel level gauge so I just didn't fill it up completely to get the car home but it still runs really rich and doesn't have quite as much power.
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I have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
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I have a hesitation/stalling issue with my explorer. Started about 2 months ago and can't figure it out. It began with truck feeling like gas wasn't getting to it and it was kicking as if it were getting it, but not at the right times. Asked around was told the throttle body positioner may be going bad as well as fuel filter might be getting clogged. Replaced both and it seemed like it worked as it felt like it was driving ok, but it was all in town driving. Took to interstate and began kicking again. Then, it started to misfire?? or lose power in town and would stall at lights and or turns. Talked to some other people and said it might be my Intake air control valve and or gaskets are leaking from the upper/lower intake.
I got new IAC and got new gaskets and cleaned lower intake and changed oil as well. It ran great for about a day or 2. Got it on HWY and around town and it was great. Now runs absolutely horrible. Feels like it stutters when it idles and when I push gas pedal I get the smell of gas and it wants to die. When pulling off upper lower intake unnoticed that the long screw to upper intake weren't all the way down in the back. I made sure to bolt them down tightly. I was told today to try and reset the computer by detaching the negative battery cable and using a wire to attach that detached cable to the power cable. Then to reattach, turn key to get accessories going for 10 sec, start and idle for te min, turn on lights for about 1 min, followed by radio and then ac. Then test drive for 10min or so. This may have made it worse??
I'm not a mechanic by any means but believe I hooked up everything correctly as it ran great for a day or 2. Also, a bit back I had P0107 bank one lean code pulled up. No engine light has ever come on. Have not had it rescanned since I replaced IAC and gaskets. Just don't know where to turn next. I also cleaned MAF, put in new air filter. 1998 explorer 4.0 SOHC....
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I had a friend put in oil and they put way to much in it. Now it idles really rough, smoking, and acts like it don't want to go. What can I do about this?
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I went to move the 2000 yesterday and it will not start because the gas went bad. It has been sitting about 6 months, since it did not snow this past winter. How do I go about cleaning the fuel system? I was thinking suck the gas tank empty with an electric fuel pump, and blowing out the lines with air. Does this sound right?
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When I first start out driving the car, and come to a stop, in drive, the car begins to run rough. I can hear and feel the vibration, it's very noticeable. I put it in neutral and it stops. As I load the engine with AC or use the electric windows it seems to gets worse. Then after driving for about 5-7 miles, it quits. Primarily in cold weather, since it started 4 months ago. I do allow the car to warm up before driving.I'm still under warranty, and have been to the dealer 3 times. Of course, it doesn't happen when I go to see the dealer. But they did re-tighten the motor mounts. I don't think it worked.
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So I am relatively new to diesel engines! I have a f250 6.0L, that every now and again sputters and idles rough, when the ac is off? Yes I did say off. It's only done this twice, but when I turn the ac on it goes away and runs fantastic. Not sure what could cause this, and think it's a little weird that it's not consistent. Sometimes I run it without ac and it's fine, but this has happened twice now, so I thought it might be worth figuring out.
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I am working on a 97 4.6 with 146k for a friend. It idles rough and seems to lack power (then again a 4.6 lacks power )
Has New:
plugs
wires
coil packs
fuel filter
sea foam intake
sea foam fuel
I have checked:
proper egr function
vacuum leaks
cleaned IAC
steady 17-18 in vac
clean air filter
cats do not seem to be getting too hot.
no codes
KOEO test ok
KOER test ok
The plugs worked some. Dirty MAF, clogged cats??
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After sitting engine cranks longer than it usually did before it starts. idles a little rough. engine light comes on after it been running about 30 sec for 1 min. after that seems to run fine.check codes po446 and p1633 always come up. if you let sit a bit with key on starts right up.replaced gas cap checked evap lines, and changed filter no luck. Did notice with lines off evap solenoid key off or on i can blow through it. that doesn't sound right.
Checked fuel pressure. key on jumps to 90psi then falls to 55psi and stays. turn off key and leaked off 10psi in 5 min.start engine while watching gauge does the same as when the key on except it falls to 30 to 35 psi and bounces between them. i think this is way low. What is the correct pressure? Shut off engine and drops to 20 in 5 min. Next I plugged line on test tee going to fuel rail and tested same results as key on. the convinced fuel pump was bad since regulator and check is there. replaced pump. problem still there.
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We have a Ford Focus wagon that idles rough once the engine starts coming up to temperature. When you first start the car it's fine. For example, today I started the car, drove it up the road to the store and it was fine, but upon returning to my driveway just a few minutes later, as the engine temperature was just starting to come up, it started idling really rough. The idle is so rough it sounds like it's on the verge of stalling, but it never has actually stalled. An oxygen sensor has been replaced and it was good for a while, but now the problem is back. The check engine light is on as well.
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