Ford Fuel System :: Idles But Dies When Throttle Applied?
Apr 11, 2008
I just rebuilt the Autolite 4100 on the 390 in the 62 T-Bird I just purchased. Starts up and idles great, but when I apply slight throttle, the motor shuts off. If I apply a lot of throttle quickly, it picks up fine and drives with no problems. No sputtering, or backfiring. I just slightly apply the throttle, the RPMs drop, and the motor cuts out completely. Starts right back up when I turn the key, but does the same thing, at any temp.
I originally thought it was a vacuum leak, but checked what few vacuum lines there were, with no leaks to be found. Hooked up my vacuum gauge and it read at a steady 15psi.
New mechanical fuel pump, haven't checked the fuel pressure yet, but I installed a see through inline filter, and it's filled up and pumps fine.
Timing is at 8 degrees, and vacuum advance is hooked up to the only vacuum line in the carb. New cap, rotor, plugs and wires.
I adjusted the idle mixture screws down until the idle dropped, then turned them out a half turn (I've read on here it should only be a 1/4 turn, so I'll adjust that later today). When I was messing with the carb yesterday, I noticed the inlet check ball retaining screw was leaking a bit of fuel, so I went over the carb and checked all the screws and tightened down what needed it.
When I rebuilt the carb, I left the original needle & seat assembly, since they were in great shape, and the ones in the rebuild kit were much smaller. The choke plate needs to be adjusted, as it doesn't open up all the way at full temp, but the engine did the same thing with the plate held open all the way open.
I've gone through everything else I think it could be, so I'm figuring it's the carb. This is my second carb rebuild ever (first was a Motorcraft 2150) and it went smoothly, and I double checked the floats and measurements.
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The carb on my 460 in my truck is acting funny. It almost sounds like a dragster It Idles really rough. I tried setting the Idle mixture screws on the side of the metering block. I bottomed them out and them turned them out 1 1/4 turns. I started turning them in till I got the highest reading on my vacuum gauge, about 13 hg. The screws are only about 1/4 turn from being bottomed out. It was running smoother, then it stalled when I restarted it, it started running really rough again.
The exhaust smells of gas. I turned the screws all the way in just to see what would happen, I thought it should stall but it didn't. I had my timing light hooked up and checked it now and then during all of this and it didn't change at all. The screws had almost no resistance to turning, shouldn't they have some resistance?
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I just bought a 1991 F150 with a 302 (5.0). It idles at around 2600-2800 RPMs. The previous owners replaced the TPS and IAC, but it still idles fast. Ford dealership told them it was a vacuum leak. Are all the vacuum lines close to each other? How easy is it to locate/fix the problem?
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Ok I finally got my truck to start, but it dies instantly. I had a friend of mine who is a mechanic look at it and he said gas wasn't filling up the front bowl, but gas was pumping? Could something have happened when the carb was rebuilt?
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I have an 84 Bronco II with a fuel injected 302 in it. I was out wheeling with it the other day, and it was doing great until about 3:00. I got out to see that my brothers radiator had sprung a leak. When I got back in my Bronco and put it in gear, it just stalled. I started it back up and it ran for about 10 seconds then shut off. It kept doing that over and over again. Finally, I got tired of it and had someone get my truck and tow me out of there. Why would it run for about 10-15 seconds only and then shut off like it was getting no fuel (yes, it does have fuel in it)? I have a feeling it might be fuel pressure regulator valve because it was acting up a while ago..
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Outside of lawnmowers, this is my first carbureted engine. I have always fixed stuff that broke on the vehicles I've owned, and done some difficult (for me) task such as replacing a timing belt on a honda, and mcpherson strutts and a head gasket on a 4 cylinder SAAB.
I'm the new owner of a '68 F100 that was originally a 3 on the tree inline six. It's been converted to an FE390 with an automatic transmission (C6 I believe). It has an edelbrock 1411 (750CFM). I've recently got it running at idle of it's own gas tank. This is the list of work I've performed since getting it.
Replaced:
old gas
old oil
brake master cylinder
old dot3
plugs and wires
I also added 3-4 quarts of F-type tranny fluid.
Related to the Carb all i've done is removed it and dumped some carb cleaner in the bowls.
The Problem is:
Car starts and idles fine. When I drop it into any gear, the engine bogs down and begins to idle much slower. If i feather the gas pedal, or punch it, the engine dies.
I'm told that the carburetor had some components replaced (springs/jets) to make it run properly, so my guess is that it is closer to a 1407 now, just with electronic choke. I'm intimidated by tearing the carb apart and attempting to rebuild it, but I'm willing to do it if that's what it will take, I'm also willing to buy a new carb to avoid 12 hours of work trying to fix the existing one, but I'm afraid I'll have tuning issues beyond my capabilities even with a new carb. Also, the truck doesn't have a tach to assist in the tuning process.
I'd love to bolt something on and start driving, but I'm guessing it won't be that easy. Is it most likely a carb problem? Any recommendations on what I should do, considering my total lack of experience with carburetors?
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My truck has developed a bad habit when it is cold (as in outside air below freezing and engine cold): The accelerator pump arm rubs against the throttle arm hard enough to bind the throttle partially open (NEVER a good situation!). I've removed the carb and verified that everything "looks" right:
1) The throttle shaft is in the right location and doesn't have any side to side movement.
2) The accelerator pump arm pivot is straight
3) The accelerator pump arm is straight (It's design makes it a bit difficult to just "bend" the arm side to side and I shouldn't have to do that anyway...)
4) The throttle arm is straight
After taking the arm off and straightening it out (repairing my attempts at a "field" repair...), verifying the linkage and then reinstalling and adjusting the AP, everything was working perfectly on the bench (kitchen table...), so I went ahead and reinstalled the carb (always fun at 10:30pm when it is 7F outside and the freaking wind is blowing at 30mph!).
By the time I got everything bolted down and hooked back up, the carb had cooled off a LOT, and the linkage was once more binding. I have no doubt that if I bring it in and let it warm back up, it will work perfectly.
So, what could be the problem? Do I just need to say the heck with it and hit the side of that lever with a file to get the cold clearance it just doesn't have? I can't imagine that this is a common problem with Holley 4160 carbs...
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I picked up a 90 f150 with the 302. it wont idle without a little throttle, so after a quick look under the hood i noticed alot of broken torn and missing vacuum lines. Where I can get some sort of diagram for routing?
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Is it possible to take an 'throttle emissions control solenoid" off a 2150 Carburetor and swap it with a different solenoid, say something like an idle swap?? I can't find a new throttle emissions control solenoid, but I see plenty of idle stops.
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I noticed last night while messing with my truck that I have a constant small spark on my throttle linkage on my carb. BTW, it's a 77F250 with a quick fuel Ethanol carb with an electronic choke. That really probably don't make a difference anyway. Is this a common thing and do I need to run a grounding wire from the carb to the rest of the engine?
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I just purchased a 1989 F250 with a 5.8 motor. Great truck for its age. Ive owned other Ford trucks in the past and my Dad had them as a kid. Love them.
When I bought the truck from the 2nd owner it had a problem so I bought this truck with the problem figuring with my past knowledge I could fix it. Not the case. When I got the truck it would start fine and run really great but when it got warm it seems it would die and I would have to wait till it was cooled down to start back up and again it would run fine. Well the problem got worse and worse and now it wont run at all.
It will run on starter fluid so that leads me immediately to the fuel pumps. I say that plural because none of them will run it seems. I did a fuel pressure test at the shrader valve at the top of the motor on the fuel rail and I get no pressure at all when I turn the key. The relay in the engine compartment seems to be working to as I can hear it. I put a new on of those on to to be sure. Leads me back to the pumps again. I replaced the external pump on the fuel rail and I know thats working. I replaced the fuel filter to while I was there.
Is it possible to have BOTH fuel pumps in the front and rear tanks go at once? Seems unusual. My other F150 with dual tanks worked great and when the back tank pump went I could just switch it over to the front tank.
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My 1981 302 dosent like this 4160 apparently. When i start my truck it shudders on first seconds of startup and whenever i touch the throttle. It runs and operates, but im getting concerned.
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I was using the method of spraying starter fluid around the intake and found a pretty significant vacuum leak around the throttle shaft on the drivers side. The carb is a 2 barrel holley. What are some different ways to seal a throttle shaft vacuum leak? Could I take it apart and seal it with a plastic O-ring for now?
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Carburetor: Autolite 4100
Fast Idle Speed: 1250 RPM
Curb Idle Speed: 600 RPM (At normal operating temperature)
When I cold start my truck, the fast idle speed holds the throttle at 1500 RPM. I will let it idle about 30 seconds or so, and then I will tap the gas to bring the idle down.
When I do this, the idle will immediately drop all the way down, and too low for a cold engine. The engine won't stall, but it will hover just below 500 RPM, which is a bit too low to idle smoothly.
But when the engine is at operating temperature, the idle speed is 600 RPM and the engine will happily idle smoothly.
Shouldn't there be an "in between" speed? When I tap the gas pedal at 1500 RPM to bring the idle down some, shouldn't the speed drop down a little lower, like 1000 RPM since the engine is still a bit cold?
If so, what do I need to adjust? The Autolite 4100 works PERFECTLY otherwise.
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I bought a 1987 Chevy Celebrity for $700.00. Initially it ran fine after just a slight hesitation when the accelerator was first pressed. With a little more gas applied it smoothed out and ran well. Yesterday I took a drive to the library. On the way the engine stalled. After a minute or so I was able to restart the engine and proceeded to the library. On the way home the engine again stalled. I was able to restart the engine but it idled roughly and stalled as soon as the accelerator was pressed even slightly. I tried varying the amount of gas applied from very little to pressing the pedal to the floor to rocking the gas pedal to no avail. So; idles roughly, stalls when gas is applied.
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Truck had been running with a bit of a skip and shuddered after throttle was applied and then stopped (would drop to 400 RPM and shake real bad). Had some misfire codes so I decided to do some digging. Where to start looking for air leaks pre upper fuel bowl?
YouTube.....
Also, does this mean the air has toasted my injectors?
YouTube.....
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I have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
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Iv got this escort from my sister, i assume it has been hardly maintained considering the... state. I bought it because she was tired of dealing with the problem... driving, it will turn off. She said it got to the point where she just stopped driving it, although it only happened twice. It began when first time it shuttered then died. Took air filter off and it only ran it like that to get it home. Now it doesn't run but for a few seconds even without air filter, so Its the best choice to leave in.
Anyway, I've replaced:
-PCV Valve
-Fuel Filter
-Some dry-rotted hoses
-I didn't replace it, but i cleaned throttle body and MAF sensor in the intake.
I've tested alternator and batter, both are good. I tried fuel treatment. Being honest this is the extent of my.. automotive understanding. But Im fairly certain it is a fuel system problem.
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I have an 02 X, and it's been giving us trouble for almost 2 years now. We've babied it along, but it is acting so crazy now. Here's the current weirdness...
Truck idles, ABS light comes on, within 15 seconds engine dies. Battery is DEAD, must have a jump to restart. Otherwise, if we catch the ABS light and Rev the engine to 2500 rpm and hold it for a few seconds until the ABS light goes out, then it is fine and does not die.
We have replaced the alternator with a stock Ford brand (whatever their brand is from the dealer) because we were told the ones from the auto part stores didn't have a strong enough or steady enough current. (This thing had already eaten 3 auto parts store brand alternators in 2 years.)
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As the title says, I just replaced my JVC harness and glow plugs, now it start and run fine, but it will suddenly raise the idle to 1000rpm, and sit steadily untill I press the gas pedal, then it will fall into its normal idle range. I replaced the stuff today, and I did not get the time to get the engine hot, or test drive it, before I had to leave. But the engine did start fine, and idle fine. Except from the sudden raise after a few minutes idling, it will then hold around 1k rpm.
Strange, can't remember if it did that before. I get no fault codes on my SCT device. The car has been sitting for 3 months before I finally got the glowplug relay, mine was non functional.
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I just replaced the water pump and put it all back together, now it won't run well enough to drive. Checked vacuum system, all sensor connections, hoses, gas cap, changed fuel filter, I can hear the fuel pump kick in, reset system with battery disconnected and have looked at everything I can think of so far.
Now - starts fine, idles about 10 seconds and then begins to idle rough and dies. If I use the throttle I can often keep the idle up, but then backfires or acts like no fuel and again dies. Used fuel cleaner and made sure there was plenty fuel in tank.
I am looking at replacing sensors at this point but which one first?? They get a bit expensive real quick.
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