Ford Fuel System :: Fuel Pump Runs Constantly
Sep 25, 2011
It started out w/ my wife swapping from the front fuel tank to the rear tank due to the fuel qty getting real low. Then the next day when I drove it I had bad fuel qty and amp meter indication, I found a blown fuse on my fuel qty/amp meter gauges. I replaced the fuse and got my indications back. Now I hear my front tank fuel pump is running constantly when selected to its position. Its now full of gas and still runs constantly. The rear tank/pump operates normal. I am wondering if I ran that pump empty and lost its prime? What is the best way to burp it?
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Why the frame mounted fuel pump might run after the key is turned off? Then when you turn the key on it may or not run. If it does run it keeps running. shouldn't this shut off after pressurizing the line? is their a pressure switch in the pump that's failing? This has the 3 pump system...
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I have a '77 F250 with a 460. (Under edit) It has a holley 750 carb. (under 2 years old). It ran fine for about 2 years and now all the sudden it seems to not get enough fuel. I have a clear fuel filter on it and you can see that it is full of fuel when I first start it up. Just letting it sit there and idle after about 5 minutes it starts to show air coming through the lines and it gets worst the longer it runs.
If I take it out on the road and drive 55 it will be about 1 or 2 miles and it acts like it's not getting fuel. I stop and open the hood and check the filter and it is empty. What could cause this? I took it to an old Ford machanic and he has checked the fuel pump, fuel lines, sending unit, and gas tank. He is at a loss. I am no mechanic, but I am mechanicly inclined. I can't see it would be that hard to figure out. What do I do?
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I recently purchased a used 1999 F250 Super Duty with about 150k miles on it. The truck runs great and I have no complaints but there are a few things that need to be taken care of. It looks like there is a very small fuel leak where the filler neck ties into the rubber hose that runs into the fuel tank. There is a thin film of diesel along the side of the tank, on the leaf spring, the air bag and various other places. Nothing is dripping. I want to drop the tank and replace the hose. The Haynes manual says to depressurize the whole fuel system--is this really necessary if I don't plan on doing anything to the system aside from dropping the tank?
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Stuck 398 miles from home. Car kept losing power, running out of fuel (even though I had a quarter tank). Stopped and filled it, but could only barely get to next exit. Step on gas- no go. Let off gas, car catch back up and run. Wife noticed definite new sound in back. Took her many miles and comments before it finally sunk in and I remembered the same groaning noise from a fuel pump going out on a cabrio. So, fuel pump bad.
Am preparing to go out and jump terminals, as per bentley manual. That should tell if it is transfer pump or fuel pump. My main concern now is are the pumps under the rear seat or in the trunk?
By the way, I made it to a motel (lucky enough one that accepts pets!)
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This van has had a couple of fuel pumps, no surprise there, and i need to look through my paperwork and find out how many miles the current one has on it, but it has the STRANGEST habit I've ever had on any vehicle. Starts fine, runs fine, no fuel pump noise when van is running, and when you turn it off, the fuel pump creeks on and off for several minutes.
I mean a strange creaking noise almost like a shorted electrical device or a vehicle's brakes when you park it on a hill and the breaks creak as it settles into place. I'm probably doing a lousy job of describing this but i don't know how else to describe it!
ALSO, if you lay under the van and wait til it stops creaking, you can tap the bottom of the tank and it will creak for a few more seconds. You can tap repeatedly and make it creak more. Is it about to explode? Can i trust it on a road trip?
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I just bought another 1991 Ford. This one is a 1/2 ton XLT Lariet with the 302 and for the first time I own a short bed. I also have a 1991 F-250 XLT with a 460 and a 8' bed.
Here is the problem, ( I think) it will not run or at least not for long. The fuel pump, which I am guessing is in the rear tank will not stop running. On the F-250 the pump stops running after a few seconds after I turn on the key.
Where should I start to find out my problem with the fuel system?
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I've had a fuel leak near the pump of my 79 F150 with a 400 for some time. I didn't know exactly where it was coiming from, but fuel was being sprayed on to the oil filter from something near the pump. I assumed it was the steel line, and that it had rusted through or cracked, and was going to replace it when I had a chance. I was poking around today though, and realized that the fuel was not leaking from the line, but from a hole in the side of the mechanical pump.
For someone who knows what these pumps look like, there is a horizontal cylindrical bump out near the top of the pump, on the side of the pump that is away from the engine. The fuel is spraying in a mist out of one side of that. To me, it always seemed to be a screw channel, but I didn't think the pump was 2 halves put together? Need to know more about my pump, what that bumped out section is, or why/how fuel could be spraying out of it.
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I have an 87 F150 4x4 4.9L EFI with a single tank. Fuel pumps keep running even when the key is off. I tried swapping relays but the problem still exists. The engine will start and run OK for about 15 secs. then die. I installed a new low pressure pump, high pressure pump seems to be OK. I also installed new fuel filters. I dont want to just throw parts at this truck, where do I go from here?
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I have a 1994 Ford 460 motorhome with a intank fuel pump that quits when it gets hot. so I was thing of butting a heavy duty in line pump on and just pull it through the old pump can this be done safely. Or is it best to drop the tank and just put a new fuel pump in.
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My F250 heavy duty isnt getting voltage to the fuel pump relay.....
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I was letting my truck idle to work on a cooling issue when I noticed oil coming from my fuel pump! What would cause this? It wasn't coming from were the pump bolts to the timing cover it was coming out of the side of the pump it looked like? I'm going to get a new one.
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Have a 95 Bronco with 5.8, I turn the key on and fuel pump doesn`t shut off. Changed fuel pressure regulator still no shut off. Changed relays, no luck. Have 38 pounds pressure with key on, but no start. Checked spark just in case, and have fire. Don't know what to try next.
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Pulled codes awhile ago...got a 96. Says "Fuel Pump Circuit Open"-Battery to ECA (1988 On). What is an ECA maybe the Pump Relay? And does this thing have a fuse for the fuel pump in the panel. Fuel Pumps not getting any juice.
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Working on my cousin's 84 F150 351w HO with a Holley 4180 4bbl and auto trans.
I rebuilt the carb because of sticking floats (that and it was filthy and sitting). It fired up and I drove it to my uncle's shop a ways down the road before even adjusting anything. At the shop, it fires right up, idles great and floats and idle mixture screws are now adjusted.
It has a dead spot right off of idle that's been driving me crazy, and stalls in gear if I'm not careful with the pedal.
After reading around here, I looked down the carb to make sure the fuel was squirting as soon as the throttle moved, and noticed there was NO FUEL squirting from the nozzles. So that explains the dead spot...
There was just the needle, then the nozzles, then the screw that went in, same as they came out (only cleaner). Wondering where to go from here to get these working again. Going to pull the nozzles off and see if there's anything obvious going on in there.
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Ok so my son and I are new to this whole truck restoration thing, but we're eager to both learn. We recently scored a 77 F250 camper special that's sat for about 14 years. When we bought it it was running. The previous owner had done quite a bit to clean it up. When we got it to the house we drove it around a bit for fun, and parked it until we could drop the tanks to clean them out. That's done, we've replaced the fuel sensors in both tanks, the lines are clear based on us blowing air through them from the engine side back to the tank side before connecting to the tanks. The mech. fuel pump is brand new and seems to have suction when we turn the truck over. We've installed a fuel filter before the pump in an effort to filter any possible residual junk out of the lines, but we can't get fuel to the engine! (Yes we put gas in both tanks.) The truck will run when we run a line Direct from the pump to the a gas can, but not when connected to the tanks. What could we be missing?
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I have a 2000 Ford Explorer with 4.0 SOHC engine, I have had some cold start problems. I cleaned the IAC and the problem went away for a few months and then came back. Two days ago the temps got very cold and it would not start at all, I re-cleaned the IAC and still no start. I replaced the fuel pump with an aftermarket pump and engine started right away. Now I have a rough idle, bad skip and bad exhaust odor. I am still thinking IAC but I am concerned that the aftermarket fuel pump is pumping to high pressure or that I may have crimped the return line. I have driven about 30 miles hoping the computer would make adjustments, still runs rough and the check engine light has not come on.
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I have an 84 Bronco II with a fuel injected 302 in it. I was out wheeling with it the other day, and it was doing great until about 3:00. I got out to see that my brothers radiator had sprung a leak. When I got back in my Bronco and put it in gear, it just stalled. I started it back up and it ran for about 10 seconds then shut off. It kept doing that over and over again. Finally, I got tired of it and had someone get my truck and tow me out of there. Why would it run for about 10-15 seconds only and then shut off like it was getting no fuel (yes, it does have fuel in it)? I have a feeling it might be fuel pressure regulator valve because it was acting up a while ago..
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My 92 F250 5.8 won't start but fuel pump runs all the time the key is on. Some times it runs. But has no power and check engine light is on.. But I cant get it to flash codes, only steady light on.. It did this before then ran good. Now back to no start.. I checked grounds and relays ..
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Went to start my truck (2003, 7.3 F250) one evening and I found the headlights on. No keys in the ignition and the truck hadn't been driven for 2 days. There was a strong smell of plastic and or electrical components burning in the cab. The truck started without a problem. I shut it off and the lights remained on. Cycling the MFS and light switch would not turn the lights off. I had to disconnect the batteries and leave it till time allowed for trouble shooting.
I've had it in my shop for three months now and this is what I've found so far.
-Source of the burn smell is coming from the fuse panel. More specific it's coming from a bulkhead that plugs into the panel. One pin connected to a White wire with 2 purple traces. I've traced this wire to one of 2 small relay packs in the engine compartment next to the driver side fender. I've replaced the relay this white/purple wire connects to as a precaution. This did not remedy my trouble.
-The local ford dealer told me this relay was for the A/C clutch. I located a 10amp fuse in position 10 and removed it. The headlights finally turned off.
-I started the truck and the A/C compressor clutch still engaged and ran. Smoke began to pour from the fuse panel once again. I killed the truck and head lights remained off. All done with the fuse in position 10 removed.
Here's where it gets weird!
-With the key/engine off and I turn the headlight switch on and MFS to low beam the fuel pump is running. Change the MFS to high beams and the fuel pump turns off.
I've looked over the wiring harness and there are no noticeable problems indicating multiple wires being shorted. How are all these issues related?
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I just had a former Ford tech rebuild my motorcraft 2150 2v on my '77 F250. I took it home, put it back on the truck and it ran kind of rough. I then went ahead and screwed both idle mix screws in untill seated, then back out two turns. The truck ran great, turned off truck then when it the house for dinner. Half an hour later I come back out...truck will not start, just sits and cranks. Finally got it started and it ran good, but crapped out after it warmed up. I have made sure there were no vac leaks when truck was running the first time. Did I adjust the mixture right?
The truck is a '77 F250 400/C6
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