My 01 super crew (4.6 liter) doesn't start. It sits in the driveway for weeks at a time, has 140k and has the orginial fuel filter. Before when this has happened, continuous cranking finally got it fired up. Could a dirty filter be the problem? This truck is 100% reliable so I'm really surprised. Looking at other posts, I see it only requires a special tool to replace. Is this so?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1971 F250 automatic with original stock 360 engine (100k miles). It currently has an Autolite 2100 2bbl carb.
The Autolite is leaking gas out somewhere where I can't see the leak. It takes a lot of cranking for it to start after sitting 10 minutes and my wife won't drive it for fear of being stranded. My attempt at a rebuild must have failed... Also have issues with anti-stall dashpot spring coming off while driving. When the spring and plunger come off I have to hold the gas on a little to keep from stalling while stopped at a light. A couple other parts looked like they needed repair during the rebuilt, but the kit didn't have any replacement (vacuum diaphragm torn). Also, after replacing plugs, plug wires, replacing points with Pertronix Ignitor 2, a new rotor, and distributor cap, it still doesn't hold a steady idle. In fact it is hard to get it down to the spec idle for an automatic without fear of stalling.
To make a long story short, what is a low maintenance 2bbl (new, not rebuilt) replacement carb. The truck needs to be dependably started by my wife for garage sale runs and home depot trips. I could switch to a 4 bbl intake, but would rather wait for another 50k miles and switch the engine over to a rebuild 390 with nicer intake and carb.
I tried to start the car RX 350, the lights are working and nothing was "dead" from the power issue. However, when I put the key and try to turn the engine on, there is a noise and a red fuel light comes on, the noise is continuous and the car does not start.
View 10 Replies2002 E-250 with the 4.6 V-6. Pulled the 30 amp fuse, replaced the fuel filter, replaced the fuse, now the truck wont start. Checked the fuse and the kill switch under the passenger kick cover, all ok. Cranks and cranks but wont fire. No problem prior to changing the filter. Even swithed out the relay with another, no luck.
View 4 Replies1994 150 300 6. parked truck after lunch finished work and it wont start no fuel comes out of the valve. Can't get the pump to work even when jumping the 6 pin. heard the relay click still nothing. Checked the inertia switch it wasn't popped. Took the pump out jumped it straight from the battery pump works . I know there has to be something i am missing...
View 7 RepliesI have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
I have an 04 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0 Flex Fuel. There has been loss of power to fuel pump. Relay and fuse both good, replaced the inertia switch...still nothing. Could a FPDM (fuel pump driver module) have anything to do with this issue? Or what should I check next? I am definitely at a loss as to what the issue could be! I know it is fuel related because I used starting fluid and it started right up and run for just a few seconds, so that should rule out ignition I think.
View 3 RepliesSometimes after running my 94 Limited, it doesn't want to start - it does crank - like it's not getting fuel. I have found the work around and want to know if it would be fixed by replacing the fuel pump relay.
The symptom is just after starting, it starts to run poorly, and then dies out, then will not start at all. I use to keep trying to start it for 20-40 minutes and suddenly it seemed to work.
It seems the work around is to turn the key to on for about 5 seconds and then turn it off - then it starts and runs as good as ever.
So, is this a symptom of a bad relay? I thought I'd start there because of the cost of the relay is fairly cheap. 1994 Explorer Limited 4x4?
I own a 2003 Limited with the 6.8 V10. I drove the truck on Sunday and all appeared to be fine, gas gauge was setting just under a half tank. When I went to start it yesterday, it would not start. Strong crank, no start. I checked my fuse and it was fine. Fast forward to this morning, since I had kind of depleted the battery with attempting to start, I put my little jump start pack on it and gave it a whirl. Truck started fine but the gas gauge was sitting on empty. I had five gallons of gas in the garage so I added that to the tank then drove to the local gas station to add more fuel. I put another 10 gallons in the tank so it should have roughly 16 or 17 gallons in the tank. Gauge shows 3/4 tank but miles to empty is right around 175 miles which would seem right with 17 gallons in the tank. I suspect the fuel pump. I don't really want to spend $500 on the Motorcraft unit but was wondering if the group believes the Delphi or the Bosch units are quality replacement parts?
View 7 RepliesI've got a 2002 Ford Sports Trac that won't start ! It will crank till battery dies but is not getting fuel. I have had it towed 4 times in the past year. of the 4 times,this last time it wont start. Every time that I have had it towed back to my house and dropped in the driveway it has started up with no problems. It will run for a few months or more.This last time it would not.
Could this be an electrical problem.Maybe loose ground somewhere or something else. Would like to rule out some things before investing in a fuel filter or fuel pump. Would hate to buy new FuelPump and that not be the problem. Can't find free wiring diaghrams for this issue.
Black Beauty finally gave up. Replaced battery, replaced fuel pump relay. Would only run with starter fluid sprayed into the air intake. She'll crank but not start. Here she sits at the dealership.
View 14 RepliesI have 1976 F250 with a 352 That will start and run for about half a second and then die. If I give it gas as soon as it fires up it sputters HARD and then dies after a total of about one to one and a half seconds. Is it getting to much fuel?
View 2 Replieshave just put a motor in this truck. She will start when cold but will not start when hot. problem with the fuel injector maybe????
View 1 Replies2004 F350 4x4 6.0 ... No start... changed fuel pump... lots and lots of bubbles in fuel filter canister.... what to check now... running fuel from external fuel tank not tank on truck... after crank no start fuel disappears from canister.
View 2 Replies1/4 tank just kept cranking. Added some diesel and started right up thought it was bad fuel gauge. Went about a mile and shut down just off. coasted went got more diesel but this time cranked but no start. anti theft light was flashing too.
Towed home started right up after tow... Starting now... Tomorrow was going to change the fuel filter....
So here's the deal, crank no start its getting fuel. Has base oil pressure and i put a ficm on that test good with a voltage meter key on engine off and cranking. I haven't hand any trouble finding info on this issue so. We can keep picking away. Just cant find anything about this.
A buddy of mine who has been trying to figure it out for me, Got it to start using a starting fluid. And it would run if someone was pushing the gas peddle but wouldn't idle. Or start without the starting fluid.
Went out to start my 150 last Wednesday. It started up, then quit, and then wouldn't start again. Later that night, it started up and then kept running. Called up a couple of auto parts stores and was told it was probably the fuel pump. The next day, we got it running and took it into the shop. They couldn't figure out what the problem was, so we took it back on Friday. On Saturday, I drove it about 40 miles, then parked it for about an hour, then it wouldn't start up again.
The mechanic came and checked it, said it almost certainly was the fuel pump, then he got it started with some brake cleaner. I drove it home and then later drove it again. I made a stop and it wouldn't start again. Had to get it towed to the shop. They spent all day Monday changing the fuel pump and filter and thought it was fixed. I picked it up and had no problems that night. My wife drove it Tuesday about 50 miles and had no problems with stopping or starting it. I went to start it up Tuesday evening and it died again and wouldn't start up.
I just replaced my fuel pump and sending unit in my 1999 Expedition and my truck still wont start.
Relays and fuses are all good.
Fuel safety shut off is not switched.
What the problem is?
Ok, I've replaced the fuel filter today and my truck still won't start. Checked fuses, and Fuel relay (19th slot). I've found the red fuel switch and it doesn't depress so I suspect it isn't tripped. I'm out of my league if I have a fuel pump problem.
View 6 RepliesI just got delivered a 7.3L from down south. Batteries were dead so replaced both. Fuel was a couple notches above red line (much closer to red line than 1/4 tank) so I added about 7-8 gallons.
It will crank forever and ever...Won't start.
With starter fluid it starts but not strong enough to pump the pedal and rev it up to keep it idling.
I know s-fluid is bad but if I continuously spray with key turned forward it will run but as soon as I let go of key it shuts off.
20 degree weather and it was delivered to a parking lot so I cannot plug it in.
Was told to check filter cap, turn key, and see if it fills bowl with fuel....if not then it is fuel pump. Someone else mentioned that it could be bad crank position sensor? Does this sound like fuel pump?
Went to start the car up this morning - foot on brake and pressed the Power button. The car went through its checks but when it finished the 'Welcome to Prius' graphic it did a continuous beeep and displayed 'Check Hybrid System' and didn't start.
I turned it off and tried again and on the third or fourth attempt the car eventually fired up, the error message was gone and there were no warning lights on the dash. The car did smell like it was running rich though.
I turned it off and called the dealers. They said if no warning lights are now on it should be ok to drive the 6 miles to see them and they'll check it on their computer. As I drove to see them the car was running OK but the fuel economy was shocking. I was getting about 40 mpg UK (30 US mpg) as a trip average.