I am having problems with my automatic choke. Holley 80457. When I turn on the ignition and depress the accelerator, the choke plate does not close. It is wired and has vacuum.
View 1 RepliesThe choke is never setting. Something in my throttle linkage is wrong or sticky and it doesn't flip up the lever that engages the choke?
Hard to explain. Hopefully, the video makes it clear?
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The gasket blew out on the choke (tube) plate on my 460. The one that sits on the engine with the tubes running up to the choke.
Do I need to apply a gasket sealer when I replace it or does it just go on dry? I've read some conflicting opinions on it. A tad on the corners to hold it in place. Put it on dry or put sealer on it.
I know when I remove it I will be able to tell but since I don't have any hi temp sealant. I'd rather buy some when I get the gasket than go back.
I have a newly remanufactured Holley 1835 carb which has had an electric choke added to it. My '59 F-100 has the original electrical system in place. Where would you recommend running the positive and negative wires from the choke? No instructions came with the carb.
View 8 RepliesSo I picked up a 2 barrel carburetor of a 1972 Ford Truck, most likely an F250. Has a tag and everything, this is a Motorcraft 2100-D (D2TF JB). No electric choke or anything like that. So I'm wondering if I can run the carb with choke permanently open? Also is there an electric choke conversion that I can buy, if so where is it? I can't seem to find one. Also what are the adjustments? I seem to have 2 needle valves to adjust and one other.
View 10 RepliesI picked up a renamed 2100 for my '72 and I found out choke vacuum control on the back of the carb is frozen. Are these parts still produced and if not is there another way to make it work?
View 10 RepliesI have a 1994 F150 XLT 5.0 . The problem i am having is when I turn the ignition on I hear the fuel pump come on [both front and rear tanks] and it should stop when the system is pressurized but it does not,and the truck then fails to start. Intermittantly the pump does stop and the truck starts up.
There is fuel at the rail and there is spark,i have changed the filter ,fuel pressure regulater and the pump relay to no avail.
I bought a new Holley 600 CFM 4150 with electric choke for my 79 ford F 250 with 400 engine. If I start the truck cold the choke works as it should and after driving 10 or so minutes it runs fine off choke. When I restart the truck after stopping for gas or food it goes back on high idle even with the engine temp at 180 degrees. Should it go on high idle even on a hot day fully warmed up every time i start it? I don't remember my last 600 doing it.
View 3 RepliesI picked up a remaned 2100 for my '72 and I found out choke vacuum control on the back of the carb is frozen. I can't find anyone who carries it, let alone knows what it is. Are these parts still produced and if not is there another way to make it work?
View 13 RepliesI had a fuel leak at the pump cover (I straightened the cover) and am ready to install the new diaphragm. The old one came out with the rivet head side upward and the pump lever riding on the protruding pin side. Which is correct? This is on an 85 F250 with a Motorcraft carb.
View 1 RepliesI've got a 01 f150 yesterday stopped running (like it ran out of gas). Has half a tank. Fuel pressure at rails good but truck will not turn over. Fuel pump and filter less than year old.
View 1 RepliesIs it fair to assume that my filter is clogged when I turn over the engine and fuel does NOT come out of the filter with the uphill line disconnected. I was able to disconnect the rear line from filter and fuel DID pump out of line when I cranked it over. Been dealing with a crank no start, I'm in the process of trying to test my CPS properly but not sure if I'm testing it right.
2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles....
Have a 95 Bronco with 5.8, I turn the key on and fuel pump doesn`t shut off. Changed fuel pressure regulator still no shut off. Changed relays, no luck. Have 38 pounds pressure with key on, but no start. Checked spark just in case, and have fire. Don't know what to try next.
View 10 RepliesI live full-time in an RV which results in very bad condensation building up in the cab and over the past year, the ignition system has gradually got more and more stiff.At first, it was noticeable that it did not spring back from "start" to "run" (the airbag light remained on and the fan/indicators did not work) but I just had to tweak it into the right position.
This was mainly an issue when starting from cold.Then, after a long drive with the heater on, it would not turn off. It finally took a wrench to turn the key off. Leaving off the heater seemed to work but it gradually got worse and it got more and more difficult to turn it on.I finally replaced the key cylinder but it made absolutely no difference and now the key physically will not turn. I am now sitting in a vehicle with no propane and full waste tanks.
I just got a new-to-me 2007 4.0L Explorer . When I turn the ignition to the on position, I get a message that says "Check charging system"...
Once I start the engine it goes away. Is this normal?
My battery reads 12.6 with the engine off and 13.8 with it on.
Having a problem with the fuel pump engaging. Warm or cold same problem. When I turn the ignition on I can hear the fuel pump engage and the car runs fine on start. Other times I turn the ignition on and don't hear the pump engage, thus no start. But repeatedly turning the ignition on an off I get the fuel pump to engage and I have start, will run until I shut it down. been doing this for a couple of weeks now. Is this an ignition thing or fuel pump? No wiring diagram. Replaced all relays, battery good. Never did anything with the fuel system.
View 3 Repliesi recently got a 86 f250 351w ho. My problem is when i go from a stop or even slow for a turn then reaccelerate it bogs down and i have to pump the pedal to keep is going. My first thought was the accelerator pump but now I'm thinking power valve? I believe this carb is a Holley 4180?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 XC90 AWD 2.5L Turbo 85K miles. Tonight my school teacher wife went out after school to start the car and the key will not turn past the first detente. Lights, radio, etc work but the key will not turn.
Only error message on the screen is "Alarm System Service Required" but that has been on and off for almost two years.
I called the dealer and they said to tow it in and they would have to tear the steering column apart as the steering lock is broken...?!?
I have a 98 Grand Cherokee (V-8) with 127K on it, that sometimes during cold starts acts like an old carburetor system with the choke sticking. It floods, chokes, it sputters, and you have to maintain an RPM of about 2000 to keep it running and get it to snap out of it. A local shop did a tune up on it before this problem started to happen intermittently, aside from this, it seems to run well. I took it back to the shop and they did several diagnostic tests and even got it to do it for them while they had it.
I told them that it seemed like if we released the key from the start position as soon as it began to fire, the problem would happen, if we held it I the start for a bit longer we could usually avoid it. They returned it to me saying that "Yup, if you hold the start position longer it won't happen, and by the way here is a bill for $103." With the recent below zero temps, it's getting worse, almost unavoidable. My wife says it uses a lot of fuel when this is happening but we have not actually tracked the mileage. Other than this it's a great car but I'm ready to drive it off a high mountain cliff.
I have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
In the mornings when I turn the ignition switch to on right before starting, I don't hear the fuel pump wining. I notice the wining on almost every other car that Ive drove. I don't know if its because of this I get a rough start. It usually happens only in the mornings especially on cold days. During the rest of the day I can hear it clear and it turns on right away with no problem. I have tried to turn the ignition switch on then off then back on to see if the pump would turn on but nothing. Also sometimes I have to keep the gas pedal down about half ways for it to turn on and not stall. Tomorrow I am going to check to see if any fuel lines are clogged.
Car is a 2000 accent gs 1.5l 12sohc ... With about 87500 miles on it ...
Anything I should replace with these many miles ... Planning to replace spark plugs and timing belt myself ...