Ford Fuel System :: Backfire Then Die When Step On The Gas At A Stop
Mar 6, 2009
Truck is a 74 250 390/auto tran. 2wd. When I am at a stop and then step on the gas (not hard) it will sometimes backfire then die. Then I can start it up and it'll run fine. The only other times it backfires is if I am doing about 40 or higher, take my foot off the gas, and let it coast down to around 33mph or so then step on the gas it'll backfire once and run fine. If I am at a dead stop and punch it it will also do some backfiring, usually killing it.
Other than these times it runs fine. I've adjusted the carb (I know not correctly) and that does work if I set the idle higher. Is it possible my fuel pump is going bad? I was always told a mechanical fuel pump pretty much either works or doesn't. If it is a possible pump problem should I test it or just replace it...
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I have a 79 ford and a 400 engine that i put a 1411 on and it backfires when you hit the gas it is worse when you drive it then when it is just sitting there.
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My 302, only mod is a 4160 600cfm and i love it. But when I kinda baby the throttle and the secondaries flop down to let fuel it... There is a massive lag time. Sometime it will even backfire! fronts have 59's (could be slightly richer) and the back has a 134-39 metering plate and a black spring. it seems that it needs another shot from an accelerator pump to keep going. I raised the float with the same result, how to cure that lag time without mashing the throttle.
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Why my 1995 f150 might decide to all of a sudden reverse the timing when i put trans in gear and step on the gas? would work well if it were supercharged. when idling in park, i hit the throttle it spikes to 10*atc then back too 15-25*btc, timing stays normal. when i put it in gear, brakes on wheels chocked, and i rev up the engine, the eec retards the timing and keeps it there! wtf?
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I just bought another 1991 Ford. This one is a 1/2 ton XLT Lariet with the 302 and for the first time I own a short bed. I also have a 1991 F-250 XLT with a 460 and a 8' bed.
Here is the problem, ( I think) it will not run or at least not for long. The fuel pump, which I am guessing is in the rear tank will not stop running. On the F-250 the pump stops running after a few seconds after I turn on the key.
Where should I start to find out my problem with the fuel system?
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I have a 95 F150 4x4 reg cab long box with a 302 V8 and dual tanks... I was driving around yesterday when my truck started to lung and then the motor stalled... when I stopped moving I tried starting the truck and it started with no problem, so as i kept on my way, about 5 minutes later the same thing happened and it stalled again, (I have an automatic by the way). but this time before it stopped moving i pump the gas a few times and it fired back up and then stalled again... i switched from my front take to by back maybe thinking it could me my fuel pump in the tank but it did the same thing again about same time later... Would it be my fuel filter on the frame (like in line fuel filter) or why is it doing that? its EFI by the way.
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I'm working on a 170 6 cylinder 65 mustang. Every time we come to a stop in the car it wants to die. And it usually does. Any thing specific I should start with?
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i recently got a 86 f250 351w ho. My problem is when i go from a stop or even slow for a turn then reaccelerate it bogs down and i have to pump the pedal to keep is going. My first thought was the accelerator pump but now I'm thinking power valve? I believe this carb is a Holley 4180?
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I have a 2000 Expedition that hesitates and sometimes stalls when taking off from a dead stop. The problem is not consistent and therefore hard to diagnose. I have had it to the dealership and two other mechanics and none of them have been able to fix the problem. So far they have replaced the intake gasket, fuel filter, EGR and PCV valves and have changed the PFE sensor and connecting lines. It seems they are just throwing parts at the problem and haven't a clue what is wrong. There are no error codes in the computer.
So far I have spent around $1,500 on this problem and it is not any better from when I started and it might actually be a little worse. I seem to think the problem is in the fuel system and not electrical because all lights and gauges function normally when the problem happens. I can also sometimes produce the hesitation by shifting the transmission into second gear while going around 50 mph then giving it a good bit of throttle after the engine revs. What could be going on.
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So my 1987 Econoline Van was running fine until recently we noticed loss of power going up the slightest of hills and it will only hit 55 max with gas to the floor. Its shooting out black smoke and also dying when we stop. We are getting very poor fuel economy as well.
We got a tuneup, oil change, new air filter, etc. We also had a few electrical issues due to a short we thought we had fixed completely... So I'm wondering if it could be the timing? Cause it'll idle low, then high, then bog down and lose power...
Also was thinking maybe bad fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump....but how would I check this? And since we did experience a short, could we have blown a sensor too?
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1994 Ford Explorer; When I start it, if I don't step on the gas it will stop. If I give it some gas when I start it, the engine will race and then decelerates about 2000 rpms and keeps doing this, it does get better as the engine warms up. But the idle is really rough. It has new wires, plugs, vacume lines, oil change, air filter and battery. If I put the gas pedal to the rug, it will go from 4000rpm back down to 2000rpm and continue doing this as long as I keep the pedal to the metal. I had it put on an analyzer and it didn't read anything.
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I have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
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I have a 2003 Saturn Vue AWD V6 with 108,000 miles that has had an annoying problem with backfiring. The issue mainly occurs in the winter after I come to a stop at the end of a highway exit ramp. The noise isn't very loud, but noticeable as it "pops" about 5 or 6 times before going silent. Over the past year or so, I have replaced the spark plugs and both ignition coils (both of which had small cracks in the housings) and the noise remains.
I don't know if this is another hint or a red herring, but my car has had some issues with rough shifting and hesitation as I let off the throttle on the highway. I love this car but these lingering problems are really getting to me.
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I have a 2016 is350. I just took off my is250 exhaust and installed it onto the 350. It is an invidia axle back paired with a tsudo midpipe. Since I have made the switch I have noticed several times after braking and coming to a complete stop within a couple seconds the exhaust "pops" usually 1 time and it is fairly loud. This did not happen on the 250. What is concerning to me is that it doesn't sound like normal exhaust popping/gurgling when slowing down or downshifting it is more of a sudden loud single pop after coming to a stop.
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Just purchased my 2007 Passat 3.6 FWD and we just love it but having hesitation problem? This only happens from a stop, when you step on the accelerator it seems to have a delay of a second or two before the engine response.
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We have a 2005 Toyota Corolla whose brakes have been a problem since we bought the car four years ago. Every time our mechanic changes the brakes they squeak. They do not squeak for the entire time you hold the brakes, nor do they squeak when you slam the brakes.
They squeak once when you step on the brakes to come to a slow stop. This go around with the brake replacement, our mechanic has put two sets of new pads and shoes on. The first were the ceramic kind, this next one is the Toyota brand, the highest quality. Why the brakes are still squeaking.
First question, is this dangerous? The second question is, what the heck is going on? We have been back to him so many times.
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I went to move the 2000 yesterday and it will not start because the gas went bad. It has been sitting about 6 months, since it did not snow this past winter. How do I go about cleaning the fuel system? I was thinking suck the gas tank empty with an electric fuel pump, and blowing out the lines with air. Does this sound right?
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I have a 2004; 4cyl Sonata, that jerks when I accelerate from a stop light or when I step on the gas, it jerks and sputters while passing another vehicle, then it gains speed?
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I've got a 1982 automatic chevy 454 engine with only 46,000 miles on it (in my Winnebago RV). It runs just fine except each time I step on the gas pedal from a stopped position for an instant it sounds like the engine is about to die and then it starts going. Is this a major engine problem or something that requires minor adjustments? I want to sell the RV. If it's going to cost a lot to fix, I'd rather lower the price of the rig.
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I have a 2003 Honda Odyssey and every time I step on the brake pedal, it blows my STOP fuse under the hood (which takes out my ability to shift out of park, use my horn and the brake lights also go out.) When I replace my fuse, the horn does not blow the fuse, it is stepping on the brake pedal one time, even when in park before turning the key over.
Things I have tried: Changing all of my bulbs and inspecting the socket areas, inspecting most of the wiring and taping areas that seemed fine but might have been touching metal, replacing my brake light switch.
What could be doing this?! I have figured out that I can manually shift out of park using the override slot, but no brake lights is not good.
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This van has had a couple of fuel pumps, no surprise there, and i need to look through my paperwork and find out how many miles the current one has on it, but it has the STRANGEST habit I've ever had on any vehicle. Starts fine, runs fine, no fuel pump noise when van is running, and when you turn it off, the fuel pump creeks on and off for several minutes.
I mean a strange creaking noise almost like a shorted electrical device or a vehicle's brakes when you park it on a hill and the breaks creak as it settles into place. I'm probably doing a lousy job of describing this but i don't know how else to describe it!
ALSO, if you lay under the van and wait til it stops creaking, you can tap the bottom of the tank and it will creak for a few more seconds. You can tap repeatedly and make it creak more. Is it about to explode? Can i trust it on a road trip?
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