Ford Fuel System :: 2100 Choke Vacuum Control On The Back Of Carb Is Frozen
Nov 28, 2007
I picked up a remaned 2100 for my '72 and I found out choke vacuum control on the back of the carb is frozen. I can't find anyone who carries it, let alone knows what it is. Are these parts still produced and if not is there another way to make it work?
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I picked up a renamed 2100 for my '72 and I found out choke vacuum control on the back of the carb is frozen. Are these parts still produced and if not is there another way to make it work?
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So I picked up a 2 barrel carburetor of a 1972 Ford Truck, most likely an F250. Has a tag and everything, this is a Motorcraft 2100-D (D2TF JB). No electric choke or anything like that. So I'm wondering if I can run the carb with choke permanently open? Also is there an electric choke conversion that I can buy, if so where is it? I can't seem to find one. Also what are the adjustments? I seem to have 2 needle valves to adjust and one other.
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I have an Accel Gen vll EFI setup on a 59AB and plan on using a pressure regulator but it has a vacuum inlet fitting. I'm assuming it's to allow for more pressure on acceleration. When the vacum drops more fuel will be allowed into the fuel rail is my guess.
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I have an old Autolite, tag reads- C9AF C C 9E 16. Need to break that down? Just wondering what it came off of.
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I have not run my bronco in a while and cranked it up the other night. It took a while to crank and usually cranks right up! When it finally cranked, I could see fire on my carb through my air filter!
What caused that and how do I fix?
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I rebuilt a 1963 ford 2B crburetor with manual choke. Put the carburetor on and it runs very rough. Won't go below 800 rpm or it dies and I need to choke it to start. Thought it was a vacumn leak so sprayed WD -40 and no change in idle. So pulled off the carburetor and put on the previous carburetor (with electric choke) and it runs great. I want to use the manual choke to hook up the cable though. I replaced everything in the carb. What do you think it is?
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The choke is never setting. Something in my throttle linkage is wrong or sticky and it doesn't flip up the lever that engages the choke?
Hard to explain. Hopefully, the video makes it clear?
[URL]
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The gasket blew out on the choke (tube) plate on my 460. The one that sits on the engine with the tubes running up to the choke.
Do I need to apply a gasket sealer when I replace it or does it just go on dry? I've read some conflicting opinions on it. A tad on the corners to hold it in place. Put it on dry or put sealer on it.
I know when I remove it I will be able to tell but since I don't have any hi temp sealant. I'd rather buy some when I get the gasket than go back.
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I have a newly remanufactured Holley 1835 carb which has had an electric choke added to it. My '59 F-100 has the original electrical system in place. Where would you recommend running the positive and negative wires from the choke? No instructions came with the carb.
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I bought a new Holley 600 CFM 4150 with electric choke for my 79 ford F 250 with 400 engine. If I start the truck cold the choke works as it should and after driving 10 or so minutes it runs fine off choke. When I restart the truck after stopping for gas or food it goes back on high idle even with the engine temp at 180 degrees. Should it go on high idle even on a hot day fully warmed up every time i start it? I don't remember my last 600 doing it.
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I am having problems with my automatic choke. Holley 80457. When I turn on the ignition and depress the accelerator, the choke plate does not close. It is wired and has vacuum.
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So I was was tired of trying to tune my Holley 650 and finally threw in the towel and got a 600 Edelbrock. When the holley was on there the engine had the slightest surge but I was never able to pin down a vacuum leak. The PCV valve made quite the racket while running.
Now the edelbrock is on there and no matter what I did I could not get the idle below 750 (4 speed truck). I checked the carb, manifold, hoses, and boosters and no vacuum leaks. I disconnected the PCV port at the carb and plugged it and it immediately stalled.
I went down to the local speed shop and got a new PCV grommet that has a small opening (restricting) and some foam filter material in it. Got home and popped it in and the idle dropped right down to a near stall. Adjusted the screw and she's running fine.
Now for the question. Did I fix the problem or just band aid it? Has anyone heard of having to restrict the PCV circuit?
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Since the 2150A was computer controlled it has no ported distributor vacuum advance port, correct?
If you have a distributor with vacuum advance and a 2150A carb, where do you connect the advance to if not the carb?
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I was using the method of spraying starter fluid around the intake and found a pretty significant vacuum leak around the throttle shaft on the drivers side. The carb is a 2 barrel holley. What are some different ways to seal a throttle shaft vacuum leak? Could I take it apart and seal it with a plastic O-ring for now?
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My vehicle:
1976 F150 2wd Extended cab
390 4bbl
c6 transmission
4BBL Edlebrock Carb
Dual fuel tanks, only rear main tank connected
My problem: For the first year I owned the truck, everything ran fine and it started up really quickly even after it sat for a few days or a few weeks. I have since, for about the last year or so, had to crank it for 30-45 seconds to get it to start. This all started around the time my fuel pump went out. I replaced it with an Airtex fuel pump from Autozone. I also installed a glass in line filter before the carb in front of the distributor.
I noticed that after about 4-6 hours, the fuel had drained out of the filter and that's when I would have to crank it forever to get it going. It also seems like there is no fuel in the carb as it doesn't even try to start when it first gets cranked. I thought this was a bad pump, so I bought a new one last week and tried it again. Sure enough after about 4-6 hours, everything is empty again and it takes forever to start it. So it's not a bad pump, or so I think.
The other day I backed it into my driveway and left it, something I never do. I checked about 4 days later and there was still fuel in the filter. This makes me think that gravity is making it drain back to the tank.
Is there something that would cause this? Also I have found a one way fuel check valve online that is supposed to remedy this type of problem. Do they work for this situation? Or is there something else I should be doing to fix this? It has taken a bit of a toll on my starting system having to crank so long all the time. I have so far had to replace my starter, starter solenoid, and all the battery cables, starter cable, terminals, etc. due to excessive wear.
The valve I found is here : [URL] .....
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I just changed my fuel tank and now when I try to fill it up it keeps blowing back it never did this before.
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I have a 2013 F250 which has both the Manual and auto locking hub feature. I tried to plow my driveway this morning and after making one pass I put the truck in reverse and could not back up my steep driveway. The truck is showing locked in 4x4 on the dash, the 4x4 control is in high lock but the front wheels will not turn. It has been very cold here lately (-30) and I'm wondering if the vacuum lines for the auto locking hubs have frozen. I have switched the control out of 4x4 and back in several times, and it does lock in again, but as soon as I put the truck into reverse, they unlock again. The hubs are covered with ice and snow right now so I have not yet tried to manually lock them.
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Is it possible to take an 'throttle emissions control solenoid" off a 2150 Carburetor and swap it with a different solenoid, say something like an idle swap?? I can't find a new throttle emissions control solenoid, but I see plenty of idle stops.
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2009 F-150 FX4 5.8 .... Had a couple days of 20's temps, started truck last night and I have the brakes symbol and ABS light staying on, with the message "Check brake system" and the traction control symbol alternating back and forth. On a 16 mile trip, they all went out just once, for about ten seconds when I restarted at the gas station. Then came back on. Brake job done within the last two years by previous owner at the dealership.
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My question is can a cracked injector tip let gases back in the fuel system?
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