Ford Fuel System :: 2001 F350 - Engine Gets A Little Boost After Few Seconds Into A Routine Gradual Acceleration
Apr 8, 2014
2001 F-350 7.3L / 147K... Lately my truck has a strange anomaly when I take off from a stop. A few seconds into a routine gradual acceleration the engine gets a little "boost" without changing anything on the accelerator. I typically take off from a stop as if an egg is under my foot. And then bam! It's as if I romp down on the gas pedal. Not a lot of increase in rpm's and acceleration, just a hint. BUT NOTICEABLE! Even my wife wondered why I was playing with the accelerator. And, it only does it that first time you start it and take off. I had the glow plugs replaced last week. And it has done it occasionally before but increasingly since. No other changes other than pulling codes.
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I have an 84 Bronco II with a fuel injected 302 in it. I was out wheeling with it the other day, and it was doing great until about 3:00. I got out to see that my brothers radiator had sprung a leak. When I got back in my Bronco and put it in gear, it just stalled. I started it back up and it ran for about 10 seconds then shut off. It kept doing that over and over again. Finally, I got tired of it and had someone get my truck and tow me out of there. Why would it run for about 10-15 seconds only and then shut off like it was getting no fuel (yes, it does have fuel in it)? I have a feeling it might be fuel pressure regulator valve because it was acting up a while ago..
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Still getting used to my 2010 2.4 Sonata>Seems hard to get gradual acceleration when I depress gas pedal,instead I get Jack rabbi t take offs ,I wonder if linkage needs to be adjusted.
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I am experiencing a power/boost pulse when under moderate to heavy acceleration. I'm wondering if this is a sign of my diverter valve failing or another issue withing the turbo system.
I don't have a boost gauge and the main pulsing seems to be between 2800 and 5k in the rpm band.
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Is there routine maintenance to do on an AC unit? AC feels a little weak these days. 2001 F150 315,000 miles....
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I have a 460 with a holley manual choke 750 single pumper carb on it, when I pull out truck bogs very badly, if I try to punch it will stall unless I let off the throttle.
It seems to run best with choke almost all the way on. What the problem could be?
I'm almost positive its a carburetor problem, just not sure exactly what the problem is, could a blown power valve cause this??
The accelerator pump seems to be working properly ...
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My 1981 302 dosent like this 4160 apparently. When i start my truck it shudders on first seconds of startup and whenever i touch the throttle. It runs and operates, but im getting concerned.
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I've got a 01 f150 yesterday stopped running (like it ran out of gas). Has half a tank. Fuel pressure at rails good but truck will not turn over. Fuel pump and filter less than year old.
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A while ago, the front (mid) tank on my '97 F350 4x4 stopped functioning. I thought that because when I'd switch to the front tank, it died. I decided to put it off and use the rear tank cos it worked.
Today I accidentally bumped the fuel tank switch to front, and it was working! Truck didn't die then I noticed the fuel gauge pegged past full. Having tested older trucks by grounding out the gauge sending unit wire, it would peg past full. So I think I had an electrical issue that caused the front fuel pump to stop working in the first place, not that it went bad as I originally thought...
So, does that mean the front fuel pump had been working all this time, just not grounded? Does the front fuel pump ground itself on the tank or is there a grounding point? I currently can't find any way to see how it was grounded, as it's crusty and all.
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It seems to have difficulty starting during stop and go like on deliveries. Also has problems after refueling. Is this caused by a faulty purge valve? If so where is it located?
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My Superduty will randomly squeel for a few seconds or just one. It seems to happen randomly. The hub doesn't have play.
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I have a holley 390 cfm carb on a 78 F250, 300 I6 with headers and an offy dp intake. Somewhere i am getting way too much fuel to the engine and it is sputtering and smoking bad. I have checked the float level, needle and seat, and power valve. All seemed ok but i replaced the power valve and needle and seat on the primary side just to be sure. Even with the float level adjusted way low and the idle mixture screws turned way in the truck would still sputter and spew out black smoke at idle and all throttle positions. I can't figure out where the gas is coming from. I checked to make sure the butterflies were closed and they were. I looked down the throat of the carb when it was running and didn't see any gas rushing in. When i take the carb off the bottom is soaked and the gasket and spacer is all soaked and theres gas sitting in the bottom of my intake. Where is this gas coming from?
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Is it fair to assume that my filter is clogged when I turn over the engine and fuel does NOT come out of the filter with the uphill line disconnected. I was able to disconnect the rear line from filter and fuel DID pump out of line when I cranked it over. Been dealing with a crank no start, I'm in the process of trying to test my CPS properly but not sure if I'm testing it right.
2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles....
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I am unable to get fuel delivery from tanks to engine in normal operation. I can however get pumps working with jumper wire to them. It will start with ether but not stay running on it's own. Could this be a relay or something in tfi thing ?
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I'm dripping fuel on top of the engine at the fuel filter . Where the line ties into the filter canister, there is a small plate that's attached with small Allen screws its dripping between this plate and the canister .... I assume there is a gasket/oring that is causing it ...... What is the part number or correct description so I can go to ford dealer and get one. It's a 2007 Ford 4x4 6.0 diesel.
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2001 f350. 7.3 has 350k on the engine. Last week it cut out and stalled it was about 15 degrees and though.. fuel had jeld... it warmed up.. didn't happen again. Then two night ago.. happened 4 times in a row then it was fine. yesterday a dozen times at least. It stalls but restarts itself (roll starting i guess) the water in fuel ,CEL and wait to start lights come on and then go off. We started with fuel filter, have changed the cam position sensor (yes with ford part not part stores) and now have also changed the Injection pressure sensor (also with ford part) while it needed changed as it was leaking oil the truck is Still stalling.
My dad is a technician He hooked his computer to the truck.. nothing. He was able to get the truck to recreate the problem with the scanner hooked up. When it stalls if he holds the throttle down the truck stays at an idle and the CEL, wait to start and water in fuel lights are on. It decelerates and puts along as nice as you please with the fuel peddle to the floor! let off the accelerator, lights go off and it recognizes the throttle again. No codes at all. hes thinking its the pcm telling the icp to shut off fuel. What would cause it to do that?
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I have a leak in my inter-cooler system. I have replaced all the hoses. Is there a reason I should not pressure test the system with 20psi? 2001 F350 7.3 turbo....
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I have an '04 F-150 4 x 4 Supercrew Lariat w/ the 5.4 V-8. It has 105,832 miles on it. No issues until a week ago. Battery light and "Check Charging System" message appear 30 seconds after cranking the engine. I have replaced the battery (Ford Motorcraft), belt and alternator (Motorcraft 130 Amp). Still getting battery light and error message. I've read some post that indicate it could be a short in the fuse box.
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I have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
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I am lost on what I need to do with my 2005 6.0. Last summer it started giving me trouble once in a while starting. I turn the key on and wait for the wait to start light to go out. When it goes out, turn the key and it starts, most of the time. Last summer I went to start it the same way, only it cranked and did not start. I turned the key off, back on and cycled the wait to start light again and turned to the start position, it started right up. Whenever it would act up I just turn the key off then back on and it starts right up. Usually on the second try, but lately it has taken 3 or more tries. I am not finding any real pattern to when it wont start.
When it does not start I can crank on the starter until the battery dies and it wont even think about starting. Turn the key off and back on, it will start.
Another thing I have noticed, when I crank the engine I can hear a clicking from under the hood right before it starts. I think it must have something to do with the injectors. I will crank the engine a few seconds, hear the clicking then it starts. If I don't hear the clicking it will not start, so when it doesn't want to start I also do not hear the clicking sound.
The other day I started it, drove 5 or 6 blocks and shut it off. After 20 minutes or so went to leave. I had to cycle the key 4 or 5 times off and back on before it decided to start. It is getting worse, doing it more frequently, and taking several times of key off and back on to get it going. Where should I start looking to find this problem?
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I've done everything I can think of, ive replace the starter, batteries and altenator, both batteries have at least 12.30 volts when taken out and checked, but i turn the key and it will have power then try to start and whole system dies and wont come back on, I've cleaned the terminals and posts to shiny and the ground connections but its still not getting power.
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