Ford Fuel System :: 2000 - Hesitating And Stalling When Taking Off From Dead Stop
Jul 10, 2011
I have a 2000 Expedition that hesitates and sometimes stalls when taking off from a dead stop. The problem is not consistent and therefore hard to diagnose. I have had it to the dealership and two other mechanics and none of them have been able to fix the problem. So far they have replaced the intake gasket, fuel filter, EGR and PCV valves and have changed the PFE sensor and connecting lines. It seems they are just throwing parts at the problem and haven't a clue what is wrong. There are no error codes in the computer.
So far I have spent around $1,500 on this problem and it is not any better from when I started and it might actually be a little worse. I seem to think the problem is in the fuel system and not electrical because all lights and gauges function normally when the problem happens. I can also sometimes produce the hesitation by shifting the transmission into second gear while going around 50 mph then giving it a good bit of throttle after the engine revs. What could be going on.
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I have a problem in the form of a 2000 Buick LeSabre Custom with the GM 3800 series II engine. After 245k miles, it has begun to show it's age in some very unaffectionate ways. It has been stalling, sputtering, hesitating, and unwilling to start at seemingly random intervals. And, such is my luck, there has been no 'check engine' light on at any point during this saga. Here's the chronology of events spanning 6 months:
The first symptom I experienced was occasional sputtering, mainly while going uphill. This began to occur shortly after the spark plugs were replaced during regular maintenance. So I replaced the spark plugs again, and also the wires, fuel filter, and fuel pressure regulator. Plus I gave the MAF a good cleaning.
But the problem persisted, and grew to include intermittent stalling when I would come to a stop. Undaunted, I replaced the ignition coils, and swapped in a used ICM.
The car, obviously displeased with my choice words toward it, began to not start every now and then. It would just crank to no avail. So I would try again after an hour or two and it would immediately start as if nothing was wrong. Fearing that I or my wife could be left stranded I replaced the fuel pump. It continues to stall every once in a while and it still sometimes sputters at low rpms. A lot of times it just wont idle at a constant speed.
So then I replaced the crank sensor and I cleaned the camshaft sensor too. Guess what? It's still intermittently sputtering/hesitating when I accelerate from a stop. And I have noticed that it will also sputter while idling in park as well. It's like it's misfiring, but with no engine codes. I'm not happy.
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I have a 2005 Passat GLS TDI. Recently it has started jerking when shifting and hesitating when taking off from a stop. I guess it's not quite a hesitation but I press the gas and it takes a few seconds to kick in and go. The check engine light came on and I read the codes with a code reader.
The codes I got were P0674-Glow plug/heater cylinder 4 and P0741 Torque converter CKT performance or stuck off. Now The car started hard in the winter when it was really cold so I am assuming the one code means we have a bad glow plug.
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I have a 2005 Passat GLS TDI. Recently it has started jerking when shifting and hesitating when taking off from a stop. I guess it's not quite a hesitation but I press the gas and it takes a few seconds to kick in and go. The check engine light came on and I read the codes with a code reader. The codes I got were P0674-Glow plug/heater cylinder 4 and P0741 Torque converter CKT performance or stuck off. Now The car started hard in the winter when it was really cold so I am assuming the one code means we have a bad glow plug. Any tips where to start, what this could be, and how much each thing could cost me to fix?
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My 2008 Honda Fit has been developing a problem for the last 6 months or so and each time I've taken it to the dealership they say there's nothing wrong. It started with the car hesitating when accelerating from a stop. This only happened if the car had been sitting for a while and it only really happened if you hit a full stop before the car had a chance to warm up, even then, it probably only happened maybe 1 out of every 10 stops.
Recently, the car has started struggling when coming to a full stop (again usually the first stop after the car has been sitting) and the car will stall out unless you give it some gas. This seems to be worse if it is cold outside (which it is now permanently cold outside) and when the car is on an incline (front higher than the back).
I took it to the dealership (because it is still under warranty) and they said the engine isn't showing any codes and the fuel pressure is fine (of course that didn't stop them from trying to sell me a new battery). However, I am concerned that this is only going to get worse and its not really acceptable for it to be stalling out regardless.
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Wonder if its dry driveshaft slip splines? Only happens when leaving a dead stop under hard acceleration. Hard to describe sound, but seems to be coming from behind me, almost sounds like 2 broken pieces of steel snapping past each other. frame is o.k., leaf springs are o.k. , doesn't do it when shifting between gears or if I gently take off from a stop. I don't think there's a grease fitting for the driveshaft where the splines are (where the 2 piece shaft takes up slack for being loaded or unloaded) may have to take that apart once the weather breaks and see what i find. my 1st ranger never had this issue after 200K miles. this truck is now at 145K but its almost 20 years old. I've read somewhere before about pulling the shaft apart & greasing the splines up. does this sound like a possibility for whats happening? not sure what else it could be.
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a little history here, about 2 years ago I got my first P401 so I changed the egr valve and it went away for a little while. Then I came back several months later and changed it again. along with the P401 I get heavy black smoke when taking off from a dead stop and after it gets a little speed it will run good. Here lately it seems I can only get 2 weeks to a month between cleaning the EGR valve.
Each time I clean it has a bb size piece of carbon stuck and is holding the valve open and there are several more under the EGR valve. each time I try to vacuum the carbon chunks out and clean everything as best I can. As of now I'm fed up with it and would like to do something to make it more reliable. would taking the intake off and cleaning completely and adding a EGR delete kit eliminate the carbon from building up?
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I have a '92 toyota camry that we just purchased and put a new engine in... now it's stalling when you come to a stop and are taking your foot off the accelerator. we've tried a fuel injector, a fuel clean, fixed vacuum leaks, and replaced the fuel filter, and fuel preside regulator... it's still doing it and is getting worse.
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I just bought another 1991 Ford. This one is a 1/2 ton XLT Lariet with the 302 and for the first time I own a short bed. I also have a 1991 F-250 XLT with a 460 and a 8' bed.
Here is the problem, ( I think) it will not run or at least not for long. The fuel pump, which I am guessing is in the rear tank will not stop running. On the F-250 the pump stops running after a few seconds after I turn on the key.
Where should I start to find out my problem with the fuel system?
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I have a 95 F150 4x4 reg cab long box with a 302 V8 and dual tanks... I was driving around yesterday when my truck started to lung and then the motor stalled... when I stopped moving I tried starting the truck and it started with no problem, so as i kept on my way, about 5 minutes later the same thing happened and it stalled again, (I have an automatic by the way). but this time before it stopped moving i pump the gas a few times and it fired back up and then stalled again... i switched from my front take to by back maybe thinking it could me my fuel pump in the tank but it did the same thing again about same time later... Would it be my fuel filter on the frame (like in line fuel filter) or why is it doing that? its EFI by the way.
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I have 2 70's trucks, one with a 360 and one with a 390. Which I don't think makes any difference. The problem is, I experienced poor operation in that after driving for a while engine showed symptoms of reduced performance and stalling and shortly stalling all together. It would not restart even after changing fuel filters and checking pressure. It has a two barrel holley. I took the top off the carb to check for debris in the jets. What I found was a clear jelly like substance. I pulled it out and set it in the open air. After a few minutes it evaporated. I concluded it was something like alcohol created by the vacuum in the carb. After that the truck ran fine until it happened again a few days later. Always after sitting it would restart. When it did not I found the substance in the carb. Now I have the same problem with the other truck. It sounds like a few of the cylinders are starving for fuel and the carb is all but new with twin fuel filters. Ignition is fine on both trucks after hooking up the scope. What is this crap and how to get rid of it?
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I'm working on a 170 6 cylinder 65 mustang. Every time we come to a stop in the car it wants to die. And it usually does. Any thing specific I should start with?
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Truck is a 74 250 390/auto tran. 2wd. When I am at a stop and then step on the gas (not hard) it will sometimes backfire then die. Then I can start it up and it'll run fine. The only other times it backfires is if I am doing about 40 or higher, take my foot off the gas, and let it coast down to around 33mph or so then step on the gas it'll backfire once and run fine. If I am at a dead stop and punch it it will also do some backfiring, usually killing it.
Other than these times it runs fine. I've adjusted the carb (I know not correctly) and that does work if I set the idle higher. Is it possible my fuel pump is going bad? I was always told a mechanical fuel pump pretty much either works or doesn't. If it is a possible pump problem should I test it or just replace it...
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i recently got a 86 f250 351w ho. My problem is when i go from a stop or even slow for a turn then reaccelerate it bogs down and i have to pump the pedal to keep is going. My first thought was the accelerator pump but now I'm thinking power valve? I believe this carb is a Holley 4180?
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So I've got a 2000 1.8T with an automatic trans that doesn't seem to want to stay on. The car was initially stalling out after getting up to temperature in stop and go traffic but now it's having problems all the time. It doesn't want to start and the only time it wants to run is if I'm on the highway. If I slow down below 20mph the car will stall out, if I go to start it the rpms will drop and it will stutter and stall out if I can get it started.
I've already replaced the diverter valve along with dropping in a K&N filter. I'm not sure what else it could be. I'd like to change out the N75 valve but I'm not sure where its located on this car.
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Jeep 2000 Cherokee
So I have this thumping noise, almost sounds like something is loose.The noise occurs for a few seconds when I accelerate from a dead stop and then goes away, it returns when I slow down and almost come to a complete stop.The noise also goes away when I put her into 4wd.The thump/rattle sounds like it is coming from the center counsel area and directly under the floor board in the driver seat.My car changes gears smoothly up and down while driving.
I was told it might be a transfer case problem and that it might need to be rebuilt, which makes me worry.
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So my 1987 Econoline Van was running fine until recently we noticed loss of power going up the slightest of hills and it will only hit 55 max with gas to the floor. Its shooting out black smoke and also dying when we stop. We are getting very poor fuel economy as well.
We got a tuneup, oil change, new air filter, etc. We also had a few electrical issues due to a short we thought we had fixed completely... So I'm wondering if it could be the timing? Cause it'll idle low, then high, then bog down and lose power...
Also was thinking maybe bad fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump....but how would I check this? And since we did experience a short, could we have blown a sensor too?
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I have a 2000 neon, a knocking sound has started only when I get on the gas a bit harder than normal from a dead stop. It seems to last only a few seconds knock knock really fast and then its gone, does not sound like engine knock (rocker knock or persistent knock) more like a mechanical noise. Where to start ? Front breaks were done 4months ago, new rotors / pads / and 1 caliper ...
Seems it to be worse now....now starting to lean towards broken motor mount ... how to check or where to find them. Also now starting to hear while braking.
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I had an engine transplant (JDM) and am now getting P0300, P0301, P0302 and P0302 OBD2 codes with my Check Engine light. These are all cylinder misfire codes. A post on Google suggested these may be due to a leaking intake manifold gasket and suggested a replacement. My 2001 Celica GT is stalling out from standstill, idling roughly and hesitating.
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So i have a 2005 Sonata GLS and it has been giving me issues. A week or so ago, the 'check engine' came on so I took it to the shop to have it fix. Problem fix, no more light popping up. Now two days ago, the car all of a sudden started stalling and hesitating while I was driving. I kept pressing the gas and the car will accelerate to 40 before slowing down to 20 and the acceleration will then drop as well. I had a mechanic look at the issue and he said it was the throttle position sensor. He changed the sensor and its still acting up. He said to buy the carburetor cleaner and it worked fine for a hour until we drove it again. The problem is still not fix.
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I have an 87 f150 inline 6 efi. The truck will not rev over 2000 rpm even when idling. It has a new fuel filter. What this could be?
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