Ford Fuel System :: 2000 - Gas Gauge Not Working - Rattle In Brake Fluid Junction?
Sep 7, 2008
My gas gauge is not working on my 2000 F-150. We have already replaced the sending unit and still nothing.... The Fuel pump is working....
Second, When reading the computer what is Lean Bank 1?? Is it dirty fuel injection??
Thirdly, When I start the vehicle....WHY would I get a rattle in the brake fluid junction box????
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I recently had my fuel gauge stuck on full and at around the same time, my left rear brake light doesn't work. I do have LED brake lights in the rear so I am not sure if that changes anything. I thinking something with a ground or is it possible that these aren't even related.
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I have a 1984 jayco mini 25 with a 7.5(460)in it. It has been in storage for the past 3 years and has not been started. It turns over and I do get spark. The problem is fuel. I am getting power when I jump the oil pressure switch and ground at the wires on the frame rail that go back to the tanks. My gauge does not work on either my front or rear so at first I thought it just may be as simple as a bad ground since the ground is used for fuel level as well as the pump but I wasnt that lucky.The tank switch is working, I can hear it. What are the odds of both fuel pumps being bad?
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My 1986 Ranger 2.9 starts only when I spray starter fluid into the air intake. It does stay running and it drives fine. The engine will not fire up unless I do this process. I have cleaned out the fuel rail, fuel injectors, purchased new fuel filter, and tested fuel pressure (which is good).
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Fuel pump in my Volvo 940 has been replaced twice. Since then, my fuel gauge has not worked right and I have had to pump gas about every 120 miles so that the fuel pump would work right. I would fill the tank, and 120 miles (about 5 gallons) later the fuel gauge would indicate about 1/4 tank of gas left. That's when the fuel pump begins to mis-behave. If I make a sharp turn, it would stopped pumping for about 2-3 seconds. If I continue to drive at that level of gas. I can avoid all these problems by keeping the tank at least "half-full", that is, by pumping every 120 miles. The car was totaled by a hail storm and I bought it back for $84. I like to operate the vehicle for as long as I can, one day at a time.
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So... have a 2010 Prius V, about 80,000 miles.
Tried to start it this morning and got a "Check Hybrid System". No start. Brought it to the local Toyota mega dealer here in Lakeland, FL. (They were pretty organized and on things, so I was pretty impressed.)
Anyway, just got a call back and it's a junction block fuse that was blown. Questions I have are
1) What is this a fuse for? The actual hybrid battery?
2) Where is it located, and
3) (the EE in me) Doesn't something usually cause this fuse to blow?
Dealer will attempt to replace fuse and drive it around to see if it's fixed, but something typically causes fuses to blow.
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Just bought a 04 f150 crewcab 4x4 and the fuel gauge doesn't work.
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My fuel gauge is not working, nor is the cruise control, Had the truck looked at, was told the cruise was not working due to the fuel gauge not working?
Also when he hooked it up was told the dash gauge worked fine and the computer showed 60% which would have been about right based on mileage on the tank. My guess is that I need a sending unit?
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Yesterday my fuel gauge stopped working it is pegged all the way to the left. I filled up the truck no change. Got home and my garage door opener would not work and when sitting in car the map lights wont come on, the overhead lights work when you open the door. Cannot find any reference to what fuse any those items are connected to. is there a fuse for the fuel gauge?
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Everything was working fine, getting down to about 1/4 tank. I do the usual, fill up, startup, reset the trip, and look at my level and it hasn't changed, neither has the 'km until E'. What would cause this? Failed Sender? No check engine light (yet). I guess I'll be watching the trip meter for a while.
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My fuel gauge is not working properly. I ran out of gas while going down the road with the fuel gauge still at 1/4 tank. What do I do to fix this problem?
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The leak appears to originate somewhere around the master cylinder but I cannot locate the exact spot.
I noticed the problem when I started the car and it began to generate white smoke in the drivers side. I also knew it was not oil or ATF because brake fluid smells different. I pulled the cover by the master cylinder (MC) and could see an area that was wet under the MC.
I may have a reservoir leak but I cannot pinpoint at this time. Photos will be provided later if I can take some that show the issue.. I do know they are expensive and I do know that Toyota and Lexus recalled several models for a leaky reservoir.
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How to diagnose my gas gauge not working? How to find out if it's the sending unit, pump, or gauge?
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Working on a 2015 f-550 with a 6.7 power stroke. Damaged the wiring harness and fuel gauge not working now. Where could I find a wiring diagram? The low fuel is now causing it to not regen. We have continuity through the wires and they have been repaired but gauge still does not work. Currently now power to fuel gauge sender?
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1999 F250 V10 gas. I changed out the fuel pump, and now the gauge doesn't work. Checked all fuses - they're good. Is there any possibility that I could have accidentally pinned the float under the pickup sock, or got it hung somewhere? Is this a common occurrence? Don't really want to drop the tank again - but looks like I will have to in order to check/fix.....
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So my wife and I swap vehicles for one day and what happens? It snows like hell and she can't get any wiper fluid to come out!
I started some troubleshooting and missed some clear indicators of the problem.
->Rear fluid works
->No pump engagement when trying the front fluid
Wasn't sure if I had 1 or 2 pumps (separate front and back or just one) so I bought one, tore out the reservoir (that air intake was a tough one), swapped the pumps and PRESTO! Still didn't work.
This leads me to believe I should have realized it was switch/power related all along. I don't mind tearing things apart, but I'm not good with electrical. Should I just buy a new whole stock and see if that works? My fuse isn't blown and seems to also be for the power windows, which do work, so I think I should be fine from that point.
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The fuel gauge sender quit the other day so Im replacing the pump assembly. I believe in replacing fuel and ignition related parts with factory equipment. So I was going to get a Ford Motorcraft pump, but my wife checked for one through her work(local parts store). The counter guy found one that said original equipment, called them and was told "It is the same pump that gets installed on the assembly line". Well it came in today and its a Delphi. I was expecting a Ford pump. I associate Delphi with GM and I know GM pumps go out all the time. I know Ford pumps go out too, but I know several people with GMs that have replaced pumps multiple times within 100000 miles. Is Delphi worth taking a chance on?
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I had a line blow on my steering rack, and I was taking it to the garage well I decided to add some power steering fluid but instead I added it to my brake system , (yes I know it was bonehead move on my part when I do know the difference). Any ways I drove my 2008 jeep liberty about 5 miles to the garage, they are changing my rack and pinion because the initial problem, but my question is do I bite the bullet and change the master cylinder, brake lines and calipers??? I do a lot of driving on highways , and I am been getting mixed answers yes change it all and no just flush it out.
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Recently had extensive work done on my 2005 F250 PSD. 4 injectors replaced, fuel regulator, and STC fitting on HPOP.
Got the truck back, and the fuel gauge, and "distance to E" display are working intermittently.
When the truck went in for repair, it was about 1/8 tank. After repairs, shop put about 30 miles on the truck.
I picked it up, and the gauge read E, and display said 0 kms to E. I filled the truck up, and the gauge still read E, and said 0 kms to E.
I then drove for a while, then powered down, and back up again, and gauge read below E (like when truck not running), and display had 4 dashes...no numbers, for distance to E. I powered down, and then back up, then it read 696 kms to E, and gauge working normally.
This morning, on a cold start, the 4 dashes, and empty reading returned. I shut off truck, and restarted it, and it started working again.
Could the shop have damaged the sending unit, while driving 30 miles, with so little diesel in the tank?
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I have a 2003 F250, 4x4, 5.4L and today my fuel gauge stopped working. I don't know if it had anything to do with a stall, I was on an exit ramp and the truck cut off, I quickly restarted and no issues after that. Other than the fuel gauge not working at this point.
I looked at the fuse panel diagram and there is no fuse for just the fuel gauge. The only thing I see is #35, instrument cluster. The rest of my instruments are working, so what else would cause the fuel gauge to stop working? It had a little over a half of a tank before the stall, after the stall it went down to less than half. I filled up shortly later and it's just stuck at less than half.
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The outside temperature gauge and park distance system on my Phaeton isn't working. In place of the temperature reading on the dash it just says --.-C I've had it scanned at my local Bosch diagnostic garage and it showed a fault on all six front parking sensors. I can't recall whether he mentioned the temperature sensor as well but I put a new one on anyway as they are cheap and easy to get at. It made no difference. They were very busy so didn't have an opportunity to do any further investigation or dis-assembly and I was in no rush so am taking it back next week.
I have checked the two block connectors which the wires from the parking sensors and temperature sensors go in to and that seems properly connected. Is there another connector somewhere or is there a fuse that protects these somewhere as there isn't a fuse described in the manual as being related to these?
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