Ford Fuel System :: 1998 - Extreme High Initial Idle At Start Up
Dec 17, 2008
I have an issue with extreme high initial idle at start up. I took my 1998 Ranger with a 3.0L to the local dealer to have some work done about a month ago. Long story short, my number six plug wire got burned against the exhaust rail.
Anyway, I guess they re-flashed the computer to the newest *.bin, or flash version. After that when I start the truck the tachometer jumps up to 2200 - 2300 RPM and then it settles down to about 1500 after a moment or two, then it finally adjusts itself to about 1100 for a few more seconds and eventually ends up at 900 - 1000 RPM.
I confronted Ford about this and they said that Ranger's and F-150's do have a tendency to do that at start up. Ordinarily I wouldn't be too concerned, however I believe that the 2200 - 2300 RPM high idle at start up at 0 F, a bit much.
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I own a 1998 C2500 Silverado. Recently I started noticing extreme gasoline fumes. Took truck in to my local mechanic and found out the fuel pump module had come loose from the gas tank. My mechanic dropped the fuel tank to access the fuel pump module for repair and discovered that the fuel tank had caved in ( imploded ) the full length of the tank. I've been told the fuel system is pressurized. How does the pressurized system work and what could have caused deformation of the fuel tank?
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I bought a new Holley 600 CFM 4150 with electric choke for my 79 ford F 250 with 400 engine. If I start the truck cold the choke works as it should and after driving 10 or so minutes it runs fine off choke. When I restart the truck after stopping for gas or food it goes back on high idle even with the engine temp at 180 degrees. Should it go on high idle even on a hot day fully warmed up every time i start it? I don't remember my last 600 doing it.
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I have a 1998 blazer 4x4... I had a issues with the car before and I had to turn the idle screw up until I fixed my problem. I now fixed my problem and I need to know what my idle rpm should be at.
After I fixed the original problem after about a day of driving I had a P0507 Idle speed High/Low. I turned the set screw down and lowered my rpm. After about 5min of driving the code went away on its own.
About 1 week later I am now getting the P0507 again and now it has a buddy. P0446 Evap System.
Questions what would my idle rpm be? Can the high rpm cause the EVAP code as well.
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Made a trip to the hardware store yesterday. When I came out, the truck would crank just fine, but wouldn't start (98 4.0L 4x4). Tried adding gas, no luck. I had actually called a wrecker, but it eventually started after sitting for about an hour. All I did differently was hit the gas pedal a couple of times. Thinking it may be a low fuel pressure problem, I took it to autozone this morning (started it about 4 times now with no problems). Checked the fuel pressure, and it sat at a solid 65 lbs at idle. I tried holding the throttle open and it stayed at the same pressure. I forgot to try with the vacuum off.
First off, I've seen some people say 60 lbs is right, but more say it should be at about 45lbs. 45 seems right since the fuel return is on the block, not on the pump. I'm guessing the fuel damper went out, but is there any good way to check it? Also, since the damper is vacuum controlled, would a bad vacuum cause this problem? Third, could high fuel pressure cause it to not start? That's the one I'm most worried about what was wrong there.
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Carburetor: Autolite 4100
Fast Idle Speed: 1250 RPM
Curb Idle Speed: 600 RPM (At normal operating temperature)
When I cold start my truck, the fast idle speed holds the throttle at 1500 RPM. I will let it idle about 30 seconds or so, and then I will tap the gas to bring the idle down.
When I do this, the idle will immediately drop all the way down, and too low for a cold engine. The engine won't stall, but it will hover just below 500 RPM, which is a bit too low to idle smoothly.
But when the engine is at operating temperature, the idle speed is 600 RPM and the engine will happily idle smoothly.
Shouldn't there be an "in between" speed? When I tap the gas pedal at 1500 RPM to bring the idle down some, shouldn't the speed drop down a little lower, like 1000 RPM since the engine is still a bit cold?
If so, what do I need to adjust? The Autolite 4100 works PERFECTLY otherwise.
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When starting your SC on let's say a day where the temperature is 35 - 55 degrees, what is your initial idle RPM?
Next, how long does it take to settle down to a lower RPM and what is lower RPM when the car is still in Park?
Lastly, can tapping the gas pedal after initial start-up bring the idle RPM down while the car is in Park?
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From time to time I get this high vibration on start-up of the car. It almost seems like more of the engine noise and vibration is coming through to the cabin. It only lasts about 5 seconds from initial start up and the rpm does not change and stays constant. This only happens maybe once every other week or once a month. What or why this could be happening?
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I've been having pretty serious issue with my truck lately, and it involves the idle being way to high. The strange thing is, it only idles high after I give it gas. But, the idle (after I lift off the petal completely) is almost as high as the engine speed while I was giving it gas. The carb is a motorcraft 2100 (I just re-built it) with climatic choke.
I've adjusted the choke to no end, and it seemed to have an effect on it at first, but now the problem has just gotten worse. I'm thinking its something in the throttle linkage. Also, when I put my foot under the gas petal and lift up, the idle instantly slows back down. I'm thinking I'm missing a return spring somewhere in the linkage, so heres some photos I took:
I can't drive it like this, and the problem is getting frustrating. It ran fine before I re-built the carb too, except, that it leaked gs all over the place.
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Just got done replacing a compressor, dryer, and orifice tube, flushed all hoses and the evaporator and condenser, blew everything out several times with compressed air, hooked up the vacuum pump and let it run for almost an hour and when I went to put in the new freon, it won't pull it into the system. Low side jumped up to 100psi when I opened the valve to the can and the high side is reading right about 100psi also but the freon is not flowing into the system. Without tearing everything back apart, I thought I would check what could be the problem. I jumped the low pressure switch and the compressor is running.
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2002 E-250 with the 4.6 V-6. Pulled the 30 amp fuse, replaced the fuel filter, replaced the fuse, now the truck wont start. Checked the fuse and the kill switch under the passenger kick cover, all ok. Cranks and cranks but wont fire. No problem prior to changing the filter. Even swithed out the relay with another, no luck.
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1994 150 300 6. parked truck after lunch finished work and it wont start no fuel comes out of the valve. Can't get the pump to work even when jumping the 6 pin. heard the relay click still nothing. Checked the inertia switch it wasn't popped. Took the pump out jumped it straight from the battery pump works . I know there has to be something i am missing...
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1991 F150XLT, 5.0, E4OD....Should the EFI system bump up the idle speed when the AC system is operating to compensate for the compressor load? Obviously I'm asking because mine sure doesn't. With AC on, the idle speed will drop to around 300rpm in Drive, like when sitting at a red light for example. Surely this isn't normal operation...is it?
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I just bought a 1991 F150 with a 302 (5.0). It idles at around 2600-2800 RPMs. The previous owners replaced the TPS and IAC, but it still idles fast. Ford dealership told them it was a vacuum leak. Are all the vacuum lines close to each other? How easy is it to locate/fix the problem?
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I have a 4160 on a 351 Ford. I confess, it's a boat!
I had a major flat spot when accelerating off idle. I found it wasn't pumping on the accelerator circuit.
I replaced the accelerator diaphragm and cleaned the squirts and the passages. It squirts great now, but if I floor it, it completely bogs. If I baby it really carefully, once the engine gets over about 1800 rpms, it acts fine.
I thought it over, checked the travel on the arm that presses the diaphragm, and figured my pump cam was worn. It "seemed" like the duration of the squirt was not long enough.
I got a new cam kit. The orange cam on my carb was not a bit worn compared to the cam in the kit. Not encouraging. I put the only other cam in the kit that I thought might work. It was blue, and it gave more lift but no greater duration. It did not make any difference that I can tell. Is there a transition circuit I might have problem with? I don't know enough to go any further.
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I rebuilt a 1963 ford 2B crburetor with manual choke. Put the carburetor on and it runs very rough. Won't go below 800 rpm or it dies and I need to choke it to start. Thought it was a vacumn leak so sprayed WD -40 and no change in idle. So pulled off the carburetor and put on the previous carburetor (with electric choke) and it runs great. I want to use the manual choke to hook up the cable though. I replaced everything in the carb. What do you think it is?
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I picked up a 90 f150 with the 302. it wont idle without a little throttle, so after a quick look under the hood i noticed alot of broken torn and missing vacuum lines. Where I can get some sort of diagram for routing?
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6.0L revving to extreme high RPMs and kill? Blow turbo was replace, fired right up but upon pulling it out while giving it lower RPMS (2000) engine over revved and killed - Now crank but no start. Checked everything. Removed valve covers, checked injectors, great fuel pressure.
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I have a 1984 Ford F-150 with an I6 engine and a motorcraft carburetor. The truck absolutely will not idle. So I got to looking at the carburetor, and found this red hose going from the carb to a metal pipe, the pipe was just dangling there not connected to anything, and the end it rusted off. I'm pretty sure I know where the other end is supposed to go to, I just don't know how to get there as obviously I am missing some parts and I can't find them so they must have been lost on the road somewhere.
Here's how it looks:
The end of the pipe:
Where it is supposed to end (I think)???
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Its an 88 F-250 4x4 with a 302 EFI 5-speed. Fair compression, runs smooth. When I press the gas pedal it takes about 5 seconds for the old girl to return to idle. I know nothing about EFI. My buddy,s out of town with the hand held mechanic. Is there anything I could check till he gets back.
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Engine is a late 60's 390 with a C6 auto in good shape with a purported rebuild of about 10-15K miles on it. I picked up a nice condition Autolite 4100 and rebuilt it. Original tag states "C5AF AV" and below that in smaller font: "A 5AC" The base is stamped 1.12. It has the auto choke and auto tranny kickdown.
Truck has been sitting for 4 years so I drained the gas, primed the oil and added 5 fresh gallons. Started up on the second try!! But it won't idle and wants to die unless I feather the gas until it warms up. Also has a bog when accelerating up past 1200 RPM. I've been checking for vacuum leaks but none so far found.
I have a number of questions. But one of the areas I believe I need to correctly adjust is the float level, and here is where I can't get a clear answer or clear explanation of the correct procedures. What is the correct float level? My Sorensen rebuild kit actually had multiple values and the one that looked best had different primary and secondary values. I tried setting it "dry" by the upside down check with the cardboard supplied gauge. Good news is that it is not overflowing so needles and floats seem to be working correctly.
However, how do you do a more accurate wet setting? Appears to be two methods - one is the float setting and the other is the fuel depth. One good thread seems to state that both wet floats should be at 11/16". An engine builder locally said they should both be about level/parallel. Autozone says the primary should be 20/32" and the secondary should be 1 1/16". My rear wet float is almost level and it measures about 15/32". NONE of the data I've been able to find agree on the right setting nor do they explain in detail the correct way to measure using the wet float method.
I've got more questions like the choke settings and the vacuum port for hot air intake (currently open) and only getting 14 inches vacuum (I believe it should be 18 inches) etc., but I'd like to get the floats right before tackling them.
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