Ford Fuel System :: 1996 - Metal Line Coming From Exhaust Manifold To EGV Valve Rusted On Both Ends
Jul 23, 2013
What's the best way to changed a EGV valve on a 1996 Ranger? The metal line coming from the exhaust manifold to the EGV valve, is seriously rusted on both ends. It looks like if I don't heat the metal line, the line will just round out, what's the best way to tackle this job.
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I have a 97 Expedition with the 5.4 engine and 160k miles. Recently while having other work done I was told that I had an exhaust manifold leak due to broken rusted bolts.
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Truck has 107 thousand miles; had to take it in for an manifold exhaust leak. Mechanic said bolts are so rusted they break.
1) was there ever a ALERT from ford about these bolt's?
2) Thought i read ford had stainless bolts for this problem...
I've had F150's only since the mid 70's and this 04 has cost me more in repairs than ANY previous F150..
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I have a 1996 subaru impreza outback. It is now dead. Billowing white smoke, coolant coming out of the tailpipe, terrible rocky idle and some smoke coming from the exhaust at the manifold. (assuming it cracked from the harsh idle) I'm pretty good with cars but I've never taken on a head gasket problem myself. I have time to fix it, I just don't really know if it will be worth it. Should i just replace the motor w/ a scrapyard motor? Should I take this opportunity to rebuild and upgrade? I have a crappy chevy to get me around in the meantime. Should I give it a try or just scrap it. I paid 800 bucks for this car and it has 220k miles. No major problems until now. New alt a few months back. Previous two(only two) didn't have any problems at all. I feel like it would be worth it.
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Leaking exhaust manifold? The truck has a much louder than normal "knock" when accelerating. At first I thought and had some bad fuel in the tank. I eliminated that with a full take of good fuel and some STP but the "knocking" continued. Then I thought that perhaps it wasn't firing on all cylinders but it felt like it had full power. I took it to my mechanic and he said it as a exhaust manifold leak. He said that he has never replaced the exhaust manifold but that it was a "nightmare" and expensive. He also said that it's not a safety issue but on the long run the leak would cause the truck not to pass its emission test. He said the problem was with rusted bolts that would be difficult to remove.
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My truck just started running really loud when it's cold and the leak goes away when it warms up to operating temperature.I did a little bit of investigating and I have found where the leak is coming from at the end of the exhaust manifold where the donut gasket meets the catalytic converters. It appears that the bolts rotted that hold the system together at the gasket. What should I do to repair this? I don't really want to replace the whole manifold because I know I'll break a stud off in the engine because everything is pretty rusty down there. I even took some pictures of the problem....
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I have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
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I have a 1994 volvo 850 turbo wagon. While replacing the pcv breather system, I dropped a little metal clip that attaches the fuel line to the fuel rail with a t25 torx screw. I can't find the clip. What the part is called or where it can be found?
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Ok, probably about 1/3 times i start my 96 f150 4.9 with true duals, the left pipe has a higher pitched howling noise, its a steady tone whether I rev the truck up or not it just gets louder. It will do it for about 6 seconds and then stop. The truck doesn't run badly because of it, but i took her to autozone to get her scanned and they said that the oxygen sensor on the first manifold bank has a slow response on startup. Is that what causes this strange noise, I don't even know how it would make it, it sounds much different from the engine. The right pipe doesn't do anything.
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I have a '77 F250 with a 460. (Under edit) It has a holley 750 carb. (under 2 years old). It ran fine for about 2 years and now all the sudden it seems to not get enough fuel. I have a clear fuel filter on it and you can see that it is full of fuel when I first start it up. Just letting it sit there and idle after about 5 minutes it starts to show air coming through the lines and it gets worst the longer it runs.
If I take it out on the road and drive 55 it will be about 1 or 2 miles and it acts like it's not getting fuel. I stop and open the hood and check the filter and it is empty. What could cause this? I took it to an old Ford machanic and he has checked the fuel pump, fuel lines, sending unit, and gas tank. He is at a loss. I am no mechanic, but I am mechanicly inclined. I can't see it would be that hard to figure out. What do I do?
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1994 150 300 6. parked truck after lunch finished work and it wont start no fuel comes out of the valve. Can't get the pump to work even when jumping the 6 pin. heard the relay click still nothing. Checked the inertia switch it wasn't popped. Took the pump out jumped it straight from the battery pump works . I know there has to be something i am missing...
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Why it won't work. copper exhaust coming off the headers. I have the ability to get it and bend it and how cool would that be copper duals. Why won't it work. If I bolt it right to the headers.
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It makes a weird 'fppp' air shooting noise before the exhaust note and my 2003 gti vr6 makes the exact same noise. It sounds like it's coming from the intake manifold valve and not really the filter, but I'm not sure and yes my filter is clean, the noise also sounds a little bit more obnoxious and problematic in real life. What it is, I thought it was a vacuum leak but I don't wanna bring it in till i know exactly what it is,
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I have a 96 f250 7.3 I just cut the cat and muffler, and developed a drone @ 1900 rpms. if I shift out of OD it goes away if I get to that rpm in OD it drones. What would be my best plan of attack to get rid of the drone? Hollow out the cat and re install?
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What a dilemma, somewhat of a novice, about to rebuild Holley 1850 for 2nd time in past 12yrs and dispite a number of backfires over the years does not appear to have damaged the 'power valve'. Purchased the Hly 125-500 check ball kit, although the installation appears fairly simple, taking a drill to my throttle plate I have some reservation. Any members familiar with the upgrade, considering returning the kit and not risk, thru operator error, ending up replacing carburetor.
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Finally got the car started after over a year of acquiring parts and labor. Cylinder 5&6 had misfires due to faulty injector harnesses. That issue has resolved. But I am getting a pretty distinct exhaust leak noise coming from the manifold area and i cannot figure out where it is coming from. We smoke tested it and still can't find the leak.
Things we checked:
-Head to manifold (all nuts tight)
-Manifold to turbo (all nuts tight)
-Turbo to downpipe (2 vbands both tight)
-Wastegate (2bolt manifold to adapter tight and vband adapter to wastgate tight)
-(2) O2 sensor plugs on the maniold (tight)
-All turbo hardware (tight)
-manifold and downpipe have no cracks
Picture:
Video:
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When I lost the rear brakes due to a rusted line, naturally the ABS light came on. Will it automatically reset when everything is repaired and working or is there something else that needs to be done?
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I have a 2001 echo with 140000kms on it, nothing ever has gone wrong with it. But I now have what sounds like a exhaust leak. I cant find any holes in the pipe anywhere. There is some dark residue that looks like it is coming from the exhaust manifold gasket. I replaced this but the sound continues. Do i need to get the manifold completely out of there and plane the mating surface of the manifold smooth. It looks really pitted right now?
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So I did the seafoam trick and I came to the conculsion that my exhaust leak is coming from either the manifold or the flex pipe. There was no smoke coming from under the car only a mist of smoking coming up from the back of the engine, probably by the manifold or the flex pipe. I do not see any visible cracking per say. I have attached a picture of the end of the flex pipe and it almost looks like someone may have tried to seal it before? I don't know if that is normal or not as seen in the picture.
2002 Volkswagen Golf 2.0 ...
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I described about 3 weeks ago this loud metal sound coming from the exhaust with any revs above 4k at stop or on the road. The car sounds like a Z06 Vette with out the cats on-it is really a loud disheartening sound. The VW stealership replaced the whole exhaust but the sound is still there. Where I should direct them to look??
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1999 F150 has rusted and leaking steel brake lines. I need to replace all of them but do not know if you have to fabricate them or can you buy the complete kit. I am also confused with the flared end. Have not worked with that type of flare. If they need to be purchased where is the best place to buy them ?
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