I have a f53 motorhome and 4 out of the 8 injectors pulse. The front 2 and the back 2 don't pulse. The middle 2 on both sides work perfect. Why would they not pulse and only give out positive on the two wires to the injector on the one that don't work. The ones that work they pulse.
View 8 RepliesI recently bought a 94 Ford Ranger XL 2.3L. This is a Mazda engine built for Ford. There was a slight ticking noise from the engine. Two months later it has became worse and louder. I bought a mechanic stethoscope and found the noise was coming from two or more of the fuel injectors. New plugs and wires, fuel filter, air filter was done when I bought it. Cleaner has been added to the gas a few times now. I am about to replace the belts and hoses, Bosch platinum plugs and fuel injector O-Rings. I just don't know if it will be enough.
View 17 RepliesI've got a 01 f150 yesterday stopped running (like it ran out of gas). Has half a tank. Fuel pressure at rails good but truck will not turn over. Fuel pump and filter less than year old.
View 1 RepliesI got a problem with the injectors there getting power but no pulse, what do i need to do to trace the problem, not sure what to do next!
View 7 RepliesI have a 1988 f-250 with a 460 motor. I have fuel and I have fire. And the truck starts with I prime it. I tried looking for the crank sensor but can't find it. I looked behind the balancer and I didn't feel any wires or anything. I checked on the sides of the motor nothing. It has a new coil pack and ignition mod. Fuel pump and starter. What else can it be?
View 4 RepliesI have an 86 F150 that is idling rough. It used to cut out on me until I replaced the fuel pressure regulator. I have read in other posts that the problem for my rough idle could be leaking injectors. When I replaced the regulator I found a bad injector. My question is that if I check my fuel pressure, with the new regulator, would the only way I would lose pressure be that my injectors are leaking?
View 5 Replies1988 F250 351 5.8
I've worked for months on this truck and I now have it in the shop. The truck shows a 41 code and has a lean miss at idle that get worse during acceleration and cruise. The injectors were refurbished 6 months ago and the ECM was replaced 3 months ago. All sensors are new and within specs. Fuel pressure is good and there are no vacuum leaks.
The mechanic has verified that the condition is not electrical related. The O2 sensor will react if carb cleaner is sprayed into the throttle but other wise shows constantly lean. He's now checking all pins at the computer for any off condition. He is suspicious of the refurbished injectors. I'm wondering if the computer somehow went out again. Which way to go or what/how next to test?
1994 150 300 6. parked truck after lunch finished work and it wont start no fuel comes out of the valve. Can't get the pump to work even when jumping the 6 pin. heard the relay click still nothing. Checked the inertia switch it wasn't popped. Took the pump out jumped it straight from the battery pump works . I know there has to be something i am missing...
View 7 RepliesI have a 1994 Ford 460 motorhome with a intank fuel pump that quits when it gets hot. so I was thing of butting a heavy duty in line pump on and just pull it through the old pump can this be done safely. Or is it best to drop the tank and just put a new fuel pump in.
View 10 RepliesI'm looking at replacing the fuel lines in my 94 F150 and the big question is what to do with hooking up to the fuel lines coming out of the fuel pump hat and the fuel rails? Ford uses a specialized pressure fitting on it's custom fuel lines. I think there may be some third party fittings that would replace these, but I'm not sure. I could use a standard hose and cable clamps, but I just don't trust that kind of connection for a fuel line.
View 5 RepliesI have a 94 F250 5.8 liter with 96K miles. Can I remove the fuel rail and clean or replace the filter that is placed at the top of the fuel injector?
View 10 RepliesOk heres the story 1994 ford f250 7.5 4x4 dual tanks I used both front and rear tanks regualrly than one day front tank stoped working fuel pump doesnt turn on when key is in the on postion now you can hear the rear turn on when switched to rear tank took off pigtail connector to front tank no power at all to tank took off swith in dash no power there either good relay and fuse funny thing is with swith turned to front fuel guage reads correctly switch to rear reads correctly Im stumped because oveiously Im getting power to the switch but checked wires at switch and cant get any power or at front tank but power to rear.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1994 f 150 5.8l 4x4 with 215000. Cold starting is fine runs well. After running it will not start after shut down. Wait till motor cools back down will start up and run fine ....
View 2 RepliesI have a 1994 F150 XLT 5.0 . The problem i am having is when I turn the ignition on I hear the fuel pump come on [both front and rear tanks] and it should stop when the system is pressurized but it does not,and the truck then fails to start. Intermittantly the pump does stop and the truck starts up.
There is fuel at the rail and there is spark,i have changed the filter ,fuel pressure regulater and the pump relay to no avail.
I just got a 1994 F150 with the 5.8L motor its a 4X4 with Auto trans. I have the dual tanks set up, midship and aft-axle and both tanks leak, more aft-axle then front. I was wondering how difficult is it to remove and install these tanks and what are some tricks to solve the problems I'll run into?
View 4 RepliesMy truck will be running real good then all at once start missing so bad it shakes gear shifter,spits and pops and then goes back to running fine.
View 1 Replies04 6.0 with no FICM sync and no fuel pulse width. Crank/cam sync yes. All other data is good. Tried known good FICM and PCM but nothing. Had glow plug codes thats it. Found chaffed wires due to mice. Replaced damaged Injector harness still nothing. Fuel pressure is good btw.
View 13 RepliesI have a 1989 GMC suburban V8 350 5.7l that will not start. I have replace the following fuel pump and sending unit, fuel pump relay, ECM computer brand new, new fuel filter. When I go to start it the fuel injectors dont spray fuel into the combustion chambers verified fuel injectors still work by bypassing them and they spray fuel. Fuse's are not blown. I have been told the oil pressure switch might be bad but I'm at my end of sanity on this.
Additional Details : Tried spraying fuel into the throttle body and still no fire, ignition module and ignition coil where replaced 15,000miles ago.
I took my 2008 Prius to Jiffy Lube to have oil changed. When driving away, I made it about one block and all warning lights came on: Master Warning, Hybrid System Warning, Brake System Warning, Malfunction, etc. I pulled the car over and stopped. I started the car again, lights still there - drove 2 blocks back to Jiffy Lube and lost momentum about one block away, with pedal to floor, I could drive about 5 miles an hour into the bay. They looked at it for about 30 minutes and claimed I had bird seed that dropped under the air filter.... I said "goodbye" called AAA and had it towed to my dealer. They said it was because air had entered the system due to my being low on fuel. I have never heard of being low on fuel and it causing the car to shut down nor did I ever get a warning of low gas, still on one bar. Each time I restarted the car at Jiffy Lube, it started fine, drove forward or backward, then lost momentum again. Still no warning of being out of gas. The ticket from the dealer states:
"Vehicle low on fuel causing ECU to shut down fuel injectors when engine started to misfire. Found codes P0A0F, P3190 in system. Added 5 gallons of fuel and reset ECU."
I have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
A little background, daughter came home one day with a blown plenum gasket. Car sat untouched for a number of months before I got around to replacing the gasket. After the fix I have a no start condition.
I have been able to chase the problem to no signal to the fuel injectors. I had a momentary (1-2 secs) good noid light once but no light now. Good pump, filter, pressure at the rail, crank sensor, CMP, gas etc. I have also tried a new ECM but to no avail.
Codes I was able to pull were 111, 114, 116 and 327. All pretty much reflect things outside of the main problem such as low coolant temp and the like.
I think it is a ground in the injectors circuit but not sure. Also, how to proceed about checking the ground in the injectors circuit?