Ford Fuel System :: 1990 Aerostar - Gas Dripping Onto Exhaust At Y-joint And Evaporating
May 2, 2011
I have a 1990 Aerostar 4WD, 4L, with about 120k miles. About 6 months ago I started my van and noticed under it that gas was dripping onto the exhaust at the Y-joint and evaporating. I shut off the van and drove another car to work. That evening with fire extinguisher at hand I drove my car up on ramps and quickly got under it looking for the leak. NOTHING. 6 months later...yesterday. I drove for a few blocks from home and notice heavy gas fumes etc. Stopped the van and again gas was dripping onto the Y-pipe joint.
This was an explosive situation... I pulled off the doghouse cover and saw, smelled and touched gas friom on the right top of the engine near the back. My questions are: What could randomly be leaking at this location and is it fixable without pulling the engine. I pushed the van to a secure location and am afraid to turn it on. Maybe I will drain the gas tank before then. I am just now trying to find the schematics for the fuel line delivery stuff. Where to go for a manual.
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1990 Ford Aerostar. When I start runs really rough and has excessive fuel consumption and the exhaust smells like gas and has a misfire my friend says its the coil pack going bad im not sure. I love my ford aerostar dont wanna get rid of it.
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My fuel pressure is at 24 engine of and 29 engine running. Is this a bad fuel pump? I was told that it is supposed to be between 40-45 PSI. Is this correct?
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I'm dripping fuel on top of the engine at the fuel filter . Where the line ties into the filter canister, there is a small plate that's attached with small Allen screws its dripping between this plate and the canister .... I assume there is a gasket/oring that is causing it ...... What is the part number or correct description so I can go to ford dealer and get one. It's a 2007 Ford 4x4 6.0 diesel.
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My '90 E250, open road, mini motorhome , says on the radiator mount , that there is a Fuel shutoff switch that may have been activated.... I don't have the manual for it, so I need finding the switch, so I can reset it ....The vehicle sometimes starts after about 2 mins with the ignition on, but today won't start, even after a longer wait. Both tanks are full...Fuel gauge not working , in either front or rear position. I can hear the rear pump,in the tank, but can not hear the front one....When I bought it last year, it ran fine after waiting to start, and both positions worked , no stalling , or shutdown.Came home about 95 miles, and it's been parked almost all the time since. I want to start it up weekly , but am having that same problem ...Today was the first time I could see the Fuel Pump Shutoff warning ...but can 't find the darn switch to try resetting .....
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1990 f150
I have a leak in my rear fuel tank, the front tank has been blocked off and is not used, The leak is at the seam of the two part tank, once removed is there a way to seal this? or should I just replace it?
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I picked up a 90 f150 with the 302. it wont idle without a little throttle, so after a quick look under the hood i noticed alot of broken torn and missing vacuum lines. Where I can get some sort of diagram for routing?
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I got a problem with the injectors there getting power but no pulse, what do i need to do to trace the problem, not sure what to do next!
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My truck is a 1990 Ford F150. It seems like when I let it sit for a few min that the gas just drains back into the tank and there for it wont start up that fast, it takes a while to get it going but when I shut it off and start it back up its like a new truck. It starts right up!!! Any tips on what might be wrong, maybe the gas cap is letting pressure out? Im 17 and my dad knows alot about trucks but he cant tell whats wrong.
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Not sure whats going on here. Could this be normal and I've just never seen it? I dont see oil ANYWHERE else under there. Just in this 1 spot.
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Ok all.. been working on the 88 getting it running (3.0L EB 2wd). It does run now pretty well.. definitely need some suspension work.. but that's a different post. I have had the rear main seal replaced and the oil pan gasket replaced to stop the oil leak. There is a lot less oil on the ground now.. but still leaves spots on the street. It appears oil is leaking down the oil pan from above and dripping off of it to the street. I also had the main cap bolts replaced (one was broken and the end was in the oil pan).
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I'm about 90% sure this is the cause of my nuisance leak on my 93 Aero. Upon inspection, I see tiny cracks (some near 1mm wide, most less) longitudinally down the factory seams (gutters) in the roof. I've had a small leak which manifests itself right above the drivers rear cubby hole (jack within).
Unless I hear otherwise, plan to buy a caulking tube of Butyl rubber sealant from NAPA and run beads the full length of the roof in each corner of those seams. Of course, prepped first for adhesion. I need another 100K out of this Van!
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I want to replace the lock cylinder which apparently I should have already done but now the key won't turn at all and the wheel is locked in place, so I can't turn the key to the run position in order to remove it. Is there some way of working around that?
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I have a 1990 Aerostar that has leaked gas 3 or 4 times. I am not sure where it is coming from exactly but it seems to be towards the back of the engine, kind of near the torque converter. This leak happened 2 days ago when i was warming the van up and it was cool outside. The time before that, it was after driving for a while. The day before yesterday I drove it probably 50 miles with no problems and it was about 85-90 degrees outside. I drove it today and there was no leak and today is a cooler day.
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I have had an intermittent Check Engine Light for a couple of days --- the van started and ran fine, but the CEL would come on after about 15 minutes of driving. It would sometimes go off before I reached my destination, but it was always off the next time I started the van. No sweat.
I went to read the codes this afternoon and now have a problem. I put one end of a jumper wire into the Self Test Input (STI) and then accidentally let the other end of the wire touch the 12V connector of the starter relay (why is that thing unprotected anyway?). I saw a little arc so I know there was some current flowing.
After this, I connected the STI to SIG RTN for reading the Key On Engine Off codes and got no pulses at all. I rechecked the jumper wire but got the same result. I then removed the jumper and started the van --- it ran quite rough and would only stay running by giving it plenty of gas. The CEL was on the whole time. I did this a couple of times just to be sure.
I guess there's nothing more annoying than turning a little problem into a big one... crap.
I couldn't find an electrical circuit diagram showing the STI in my Haynes manual, so I'm not sure what is likely to have been damaged. I assume the engine control module (ECU) has been damaged, but that is just a guess.
Some specific questions:
- where is the ECU?
- Should I spring for a new one (depending on the ID number), or is one from a junk yard just as good?
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What's the best way to changed a EGV valve on a 1996 Ranger? The metal line coming from the exhaust manifold to the EGV valve, is seriously rusted on both ends. It looks like if I don't heat the metal line, the line will just round out, what's the best way to tackle this job.
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Want to install exhaust system on my 06 F350.Tell me,what is the best brand for my truck,I know, very good intake system is from K&N,what about exhaust?
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I have an 05 ex v10 4x4 with 3.73 gears, Was towing my camper (9000#s fully loaded) after about 100 miles pulled off highway and tranny fluid was dripping out of a grommet in the bell housing. Dripping right on the exhaust and it looked like it was on fire.
All gauges showed everything running cool. Checked fluid and couldn't see any loss. Continued to our location and it seemed to stop. Checked tranny fluid continuously and never really showed much loss. Just enough to cause smoke on pipes.. Drove home and stopped leaking. Got two miles from house and started again.
Tranny temp gauge never moved. Does seem to work because I watch it heat up and then stays at the same temp always. This was a 400 mile roundtrip here in flat Florida in the 90's.
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M y 90 aero 3.0 heads are leaking front and back freeze plugs. I think back ones are pretty accessible from inside. How hard to change it . I changed block plugs. What size are head plugs?.
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I have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
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I have a 1990 Ranger with a 4.0L that I just changer the intake gasket on. I broke the fuel line at the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Cant seem to find one anywhere. It is a nylon inside/rubber outside with a cloth mesh and quick connect fitting line. Where to get one? Can I hose clamp it the FPR by cutting off the connector that broke?
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