I have a 1988 f-250 with a 460 motor. I have fuel and I have fire. And the truck starts with I prime it. I tried looking for the crank sensor but can't find it. I looked behind the balancer and I didn't feel any wires or anything. I checked on the sides of the motor nothing. It has a new coil pack and ignition mod. Fuel pump and starter. What else can it be?
View 4 Replies1988 F250 351 5.8
I've worked for months on this truck and I now have it in the shop. The truck shows a 41 code and has a lean miss at idle that get worse during acceleration and cruise. The injectors were refurbished 6 months ago and the ECM was replaced 3 months ago. All sensors are new and within specs. Fuel pressure is good and there are no vacuum leaks.
The mechanic has verified that the condition is not electrical related. The O2 sensor will react if carb cleaner is sprayed into the throttle but other wise shows constantly lean. He's now checking all pins at the computer for any off condition. He is suspicious of the refurbished injectors. I'm wondering if the computer somehow went out again. Which way to go or what/how next to test?
I have a 1988 Ford F-250 Lariat, 7.5L 460, four-wheel drive. I have two fuel tanks on it, and I've been having a really annoying, obnoxious problem with it lately. After running it for a while, I noticed that I keep losing fuel pressure, and the truck stalls. When I try to start it, it does nothing but roll over. It just won't start. I've changed the fuel filter, I know both fuel pumps are working (I turn over the key, I can hear front, back, and high pressure pump attached to the left side frame rail kick in.) It's Fuel Injected, not EFI, hence that third pump. The problem happens a lot, and it's random. I could drive for 100 miles, stop to get something to eat, come out, and it won't start.
I thought maybe it was the fuel pressure regulator, but I don't think that's the case because it still runs. I would assume that if the regulator was bad, it wouldn't run at all. I also thought that maybe it was the relay, but according to some mechanics I spoke too, if I can hear the pumps kick in when I turn the key over, then the relay is fine. The only thing I could think of is that it might be the fuel selector switch. Maybe it's going bad, shorting out or something. When I flip the switch though, it switches between fuel tanks, and the gauge reads how much fuel is in it from the sending unit.
There's a schrader-type valve up by the fuel injectors. When I push it in, it barely squirts any fuel out, if at all, so I know the pressure is low. When I push it in on a good day, it sprays out like a water fountain. Just tried starting it again - no good. Pushed on the valve, it spurted out some fuel pretty well, but still won't start. Occasionally tries to, but ultimately won't. I know the spark is good, checked the plugs/distributor cap. Can't get the sucker to start.
Its an 88 F-250 4x4 with a 302 EFI 5-speed. Fair compression, runs smooth. When I press the gas pedal it takes about 5 seconds for the old girl to return to idle. I know nothing about EFI. My buddy,s out of town with the hand held mechanic. Is there anything I could check till he gets back.
View 6 RepliesI've got a 01 f150 yesterday stopped running (like it ran out of gas). Has half a tank. Fuel pressure at rails good but truck will not turn over. Fuel pump and filter less than year old.
View 1 Repliescant figur this out have no signal to injectors and no power at fuel pump 88 f150 5-0
View 2 RepliesI have an 88 E350 With a 460 EFI . Problem is there fuel is coming out of the ecs canister . It has the dual canister set up fuel comes out of the rear one after the engine starts. I have never seen this before. What would cause this ?
View 2 RepliesWorking on a 88 Ranger 2.9L 5-speed ext cab. The fuel pressure drops off fairly fast when turned off and I'm pretty sure that the check valve is bad. My question is, which pump has the check valve? It is a single mid tank set-up and has a pump in the tank and on the frame.
Pressure is fine while running. about 30psi @ idle and 40psi with no vacuum on the regulator. The pressure drops off within a couple of minutes which causes it to have to crank over for a bit to rebuild pressure and start.
It looks like the frame pump is readily available while the in take pump is special order. I just need to know which one has a check valve. I'm thinking the in tank pump, but I hate to waste money for the wrong pump.
Pressure drop rate
30 psi @ shut off
25 psi @ 1:05 min
20PSI @ 2:30 min
15psi @ 4:45 min
still dropping
I have a f53 motorhome and 4 out of the 8 injectors pulse. The front 2 and the back 2 don't pulse. The middle 2 on both sides work perfect. Why would they not pulse and only give out positive on the two wires to the injector on the one that don't work. The ones that work they pulse.
View 8 RepliesI have an 86 F150 that is idling rough. It used to cut out on me until I replaced the fuel pressure regulator. I have read in other posts that the problem for my rough idle could be leaking injectors. When I replaced the regulator I found a bad injector. My question is that if I check my fuel pressure, with the new regulator, would the only way I would lose pressure be that my injectors are leaking?
View 5 RepliesMy 88 F150 (300 six, 5 speed, dual tanks, 176,000 miles). The truck has the low pressure fuel pumps in the tanks and the high pressure pump on the frame rail setup. Truck starts fine, but cuts out severely under acceleration for the first 30 seconds of driving. After that I only notice the problem when applying a lot of throttle (does not cut out under gradual acceleration) or climbing steeper hills. If I kill it for a few minutes and then take off again the problem is back for the first 30 seconds or so. I have replaced all the tune-up type stuff (all filters, plugs & wires, dist. cap & rotor, ignition coil, o2 sensor, cleaned throttle body, replaced IAC valve, numerous sensors). Timing is dead on at 10 deg. BTDC with SPOUT unplugged. My FPR was bad so I also replaced that. Condition exists regardless of which fuel tank I am using (no problems with tank selector).
Getting no KOEO codes, but getting KOER code 41 and plugs do seem to show a lean condition possibly. I'm still averaging around 16 MPG since this became a real problem about 3 months ago.
I removed the bowl from the reservoir between the tanks and the high pressure pump on the frame. No filter in there, but it was clean with no gunk or sediment found. I removed the line from the inlet side of the high pressure pump and found that while cranking the engine I have fuel flowing freely (same amount of flow regardless of which tank I've switched to). The flow was steady, but not extremely strong. If I understand right the in-tank pumps are not designed to provide much pressure? Below is what I found at the schrader valve:
key on, engine off - high pressure pumps runs for about 1 second, brings gauge up to 48 psi
idle, FPR connected - 40 psi
idle FPR disconnected - 52 psi
revving throttle with FPR connected - 46 psi maximum
Connector, where fuel pump relay plugs in, seems to be clean and not corroded at all.
I have a '88 F250 with a couple of dual tank issues, first of all if I'm running on the rear tank the fuel returns in the front tank.... not an isssue if trhe front tank is empty, but if both tanks are full the front tank will overflow. If the front tank is empty I run on the back tank until I'm out of gas and switch to the front and I"ll have about a half a tank in the front tank.
Second issue, running the front tank the fuel gauge stays on full until I have about half a tank, then it works OK. If I'm running the back tank it stays on full, even after the tank runs out of gas??
I jump started my wife's mini Cooper using my aerostar van 3.0l cargo. Her battery was so dead we had no luck after running my van for 8-10 min. There were a couple of attempts. My van suddenly died when she wasn't cranking the mini. It won't restart.
About one week prior I had a no start situation. I thought I had solved the problem. The first thing I did was listen for fuel pump engagement. I didn't hear it. I pulled the fuel pump relay and cleaned the connections. I put it back and the van started. I drove all week and then I get the call to jump start the mini.
So back to today. Fuel pump is engaging. I checked for spark at #4 cylinder with fuel relay disconnected so as not to flood the engine. I have spark. Battery is strong. I put a new fuel pump relay in place even though it appeared to be working properly. I had my wife crank the engine and the pink/blue wire at the fuel pump relay which goes to the pump lit up my voltage tester. Power appears to be present when cranking and not just initial engagement.
I'm thinking the original no start had nothing to do with the wire connections which I cleaned and it was just coincidence that it started and ran again for a week. The connections are now clean with a new relay attached and not starting. I'm thinking if I have spark and a fuel pump engaging then injectors may not be firing???
I just bought another 1991 Ford. This one is a 1/2 ton XLT Lariet with the 302 and for the first time I own a short bed. I also have a 1991 F-250 XLT with a 460 and a 8' bed.
Here is the problem, ( I think) it will not run or at least not for long. The fuel pump, which I am guessing is in the rear tank will not stop running. On the F-250 the pump stops running after a few seconds after I turn on the key.
Where should I start to find out my problem with the fuel system?
My F250 heavy duty isnt getting voltage to the fuel pump relay.....
View 2 RepliesI have a 94 F250 5.8 liter with 96K miles. Can I remove the fuel rail and clean or replace the filter that is placed at the top of the fuel injector?
View 10 RepliesI have a 77 f-250 with a 460 engine and a 4bbl Motorcraft carb and its leaking a substantial amount of fuel out of the newly replaced filter that is attached to the carburetor. The fitting is tight and I even tried buying some small gaskets to seat it, but that didn't work either.
View 1 RepliesI am a newbie as far as fuel injection. The original issue the truck had was no fuel. I tracked down the issues to a blown fuel pump relay and a melted inertia switch. I jumped the inertia wires with a new fuel pump relay installed and the truck ran at an idle and up to 3500 RPM when stationary. If the truck is going up a grade or needs more throttle it will start to lose fuel pressure and end up stalling. I had the fuel pressure gauge connected to the schrader valve on the fuel rail and had 30-35 PSI when idling. It runs good under light load on the throttle.
Under heavy load it starts to drop quickly and if you back off the throttle it will stay running some times. I changed the fuel filter and also replaced the high pressure pump on the main frame and it still has the same problems.The original pump was pumping about 13 ounces of fuel in the 20 second test that the repair manual suggested. I have even placed a jumper wire direct to the new fuel pump to bypass original wiring and possible problems. When it stalls under load (No Fuel pressure) at the schrader valve you can hear the fuel pump running but there is no fuel pressure.
If I turn off the ignition for a few minutes and then turn the key back to the on position it will start to pressurize and then start and run at an idle. I even replace the ignition switch as it was a little temperamental. I have not changed or checked the fuel pressure regulator as it is a pain to get to at the back of the engine. I do not want to spend a fortune tracking down this problem since the truck may not even pass its smog inspection and may be a parts truck only.
67 F-250 4x4
73 Crew 4x2 (4x4 Soon)
89 F-250 Super Cab 4x4
My 88 2.3l 5 speed ranger was running fine then i went to start it up again and it wouldn't turn any of the cylinders or none of the belts move. i can hear the fuel pump turn on for about a second every time, there is weak fuel pressure at the rail. Why wouldn't the engine crank? the starter does not turn the belts and all i hear is a whizzing sound. it sounds as if the starter is spinning but not engaging.
I have had problems with the fuel pump relays but those are all taped up pretty good. I am leaning towards a clogged fuel filter or bad fuel pump. but even with a bad fuel pump or clogged filter wouldn't the engine try to crank even with low fuel pressure? I have a new battery in there. I checked all the fuses in the kick panel. I will check the inertia switch wires as the inertia switch has been disabled.
i have a 78' F-250 4x4 4 speed with a straight 6. it has headers and an eldebrock 600 on an offenhouser dual plane intake. The carb just randomly started acting up the other day and what to try now. it will sputter and just about die when i first let off the clutch then it will suddenly start racin. its really annoying and hard to drive. i checked the inline fuel filter and it should be getting plenty of gas. didn't find any vacuum leaks.
View 14 RepliesOk heres the story 1994 ford f250 7.5 4x4 dual tanks I used both front and rear tanks regualrly than one day front tank stoped working fuel pump doesnt turn on when key is in the on postion now you can hear the rear turn on when switched to rear tank took off pigtail connector to front tank no power at all to tank took off swith in dash no power there either good relay and fuse funny thing is with swith turned to front fuel guage reads correctly switch to rear reads correctly Im stumped because oveiously Im getting power to the switch but checked wires at switch and cant get any power or at front tank but power to rear.
View 6 Replies