My little '87 2.9 Ranger has little metal clips that hold the electrical connector onto the injector......how do I remove and reinstall the electric connector?
View 2 RepliesI just purchased an 87 f250 w/ a carb'd 460. I purchased it with the mech fuel pump swapped out to an electric. The previous owner states that they gave him the wrong electric pump and I should exchange it for a different one. The reason for him putting it on was to get it running for me to hear it run.
My question: Is this even recommended? I wouldn't mind staying with an electric pump up front. If it is recommended, what would be a suitable pump to replace it with, as in flow/feeding characteristics?
Also, it only feeds from the rear tank, which also has a bad fuel pump. I'd like to get both tanks functioning again. I'd rather not deal with the tank switching valve due to what I've read about them. Has anyone ever hooked up a manual valve and just switched tanks that way? I've searched this site extensively and couldn't find anything. I know I'm not the first to have thought about it.
Why the frame mounted fuel pump might run after the key is turned off? Then when you turn the key on it may or not run. If it does run it keeps running. shouldn't this shut off after pressurizing the line? is their a pressure switch in the pump that's failing? This has the 3 pump system...
View 4 RepliesI have an 87 F150 4x4 4.9L EFI with a single tank. Fuel pumps keep running even when the key is off. I tried swapping relays but the problem still exists. The engine will start and run OK for about 15 secs. then die. I installed a new low pressure pump, high pressure pump seems to be OK. I also installed new fuel filters. I dont want to just throw parts at this truck, where do I go from here?
View 4 RepliesI have an 87 f150 inline 6 efi. The truck will not rev over 2000 rpm even when idling. It has a new fuel filter. What this could be?
View 2 RepliesI have a newly remanufactured Holley 1835 carb which has had an electric choke added to it. My '59 F-100 has the original electrical system in place. Where would you recommend running the positive and negative wires from the choke? No instructions came with the carb.
View 8 RepliesAll stock 460 in a 1987 1-ton 4x4. The carb has lost it's cookies I think. It (all of the sudden) developed this massive flat spot right after I shift gears and open the throttle. It falls on its face, then catches and slams the whole damn truck.
Also pop-pop-pops really badly when I downshift and occasionally backfires when I shut it off. I'm (barely) smart enough to know that it's getting excess fuel dumped through the engine. I just pulled out both float adjusters, cleaned them, and reset float levels and it made no difference whatsoever.
It's my only vehicle and it's barely drivable.
1987 f150 302 4spd 4x4. When I bought the truck 4 years and 12K miles ago the orig owner had just installed a new front pump (in tank) and new switch thing on the frame rail. He said shortly after that the rear pump stopped working so he just ran off of the front tank. That's what I've been doing also except as of the last few months it has started to leak from the rear tank (I don't ever put gas in it and was empty when I bought it) and dies periodically from time to time? Where the leak could be coming from. I do suspect the dying has to do with the leak though.
View 3 RepliesSo my 1987 Econoline Van was running fine until recently we noticed loss of power going up the slightest of hills and it will only hit 55 max with gas to the floor. Its shooting out black smoke and also dying when we stop. We are getting very poor fuel economy as well.
We got a tuneup, oil change, new air filter, etc. We also had a few electrical issues due to a short we thought we had fixed completely... So I'm wondering if it could be the timing? Cause it'll idle low, then high, then bog down and lose power...
Also was thinking maybe bad fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump....but how would I check this? And since we did experience a short, could we have blown a sensor too?
How to remove and reinstall the GS-F suede headliner?
View 14 RepliesHow do you remove and reinstall just the lens in the rear light assembly in 2002 SC430 ? I can see that it probably just snaps out using a screwdriver as a pry tool but want to be sure !
View 5 Replies2005 RX330 ... The passanger-side rear marker light (bottom corner of bumper) is broken . I would like to replace it myself, but can't figure out how to remove it. By looking from underneath the car, it appears the assembly is bolted on, but the nut is in an impossible to reach place, even using socket extensions and a universal joint. Other than removing the rear bumper cover, how to remove the entire rear marker light assembly?
View 14 RepliesHow to twist or pull the factory connector stored in the rear bumper, for hitch install. I see a small gray clip somehow attached to the barrel connector, but it doesn't seem to want to release.
View 4 RepliesI have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
98 F150 4.6L 4WD...
Attempted to replace fuel filter tonight. The connector on the fuel tank side of the filter came off just like it is supposed to. The engine side, however, will not come lose at all. I can wiggle to back and forth, but I can't seem to get the tool to compress the springs.
The engine side connector seems to be smaller than the tank side. I've done this once before on a '98 Ranger, but didn't notice a difference in connectors.
I have a 1987 jeep cherokee with inline 6 and multi port injection.
Sometimes this vehicle only starts when hot
Some times only when it cold
I have recently fixed the fuel leak.
When its hot or cold and not starting if i relieve the fuel pressure at the fuel rail, in most cases it will start immediately. However if fuel pressure relief does not work. I disconnect the vacuum line at the what looks to be the EGR valve or the pressure regulator at the front end of the rail, then usually starts right away.
I have not tested at this time to see if the fuel pump is failing nor have i tested fuel pressure. I am trying to narrow down the problem to one specific part. There is no problems with cranking. There is spark - coil, plug, dist cap have been replaced.
It seems the problem is with fuel delivery of sorts. It was mentioned that sometimes the heat from the engine could be heating the fuel rail to a point which turns the fuel into a gas not allowing it to atomize.
What size socket I need to remove the driveaxle hub bolts from this car? I can see the bolts are considerably larger than the socket I have for my Ford Tauruses, and I would like to eliminate the guess work before I go to carquest to get the proper socket. Unfortunately bringing the car to the store and trying sockets until I get one that fits is not an option, since the car is not running right now.
View 3 RepliesSeveral weeks ago I was smelling gasoline odor in the cabin, mainly when I came to a stop. Took the car to the dealership,and they found a leaking connector going to the fuel rail. They tightened it up, but this morning the odor is back.
View 5 RepliesToday i came back from a long drive around 250km. After 1 hour i again started the car it drove well for 2 minute then suddenly engine conked off wasn't restarting i knew it was a fuel related issue. Then I smelled petrol got out of the car saw pool of petrol but it wasn't leaking i removed the panel in my boot and to my horror i found the fuel line connector was unattached to the fuel pump.
So whenever if i would switch on ignition it will spill fuel everywhere. I reattached it and got a nice locking sound tried to pull it but it was really secure. What should i do?Get the connector replaced? An year ago i got my fuel pump replaced could this be because it was not connected properly?
I was changing the fuel filter and I got it all done, started the car and heard a pop and the car died. the line that goes from the tank to the filter keeps popping off the filter... i can pull it off with my hands.. the other one is fine but the fuel line to the fuel filter isnt grabbing that barb on the filter. its not the filters problem cause it now does it with my old one too...
View 23 RepliesHow many O2 sensors does a 2.3 fi 4 cyl. have. I think just one on the manifold, but I'm not completely sure. Engine is running very rough and seems to miss at low RPMs, has no power and drinks gas like crazy!!! Emissions light is on on the dash. I'm thinking O2 sensor......tried replacing, but couldn't get enough torque on the sensor socket wrench to loosen, may be rusted.
View 6 Replies