Ford Fuel System :: 1978 F250 - Truck Will Sputter And Just About Die When First Let Off The Clutch
Dec 6, 2009
i have a 78' F-250 4x4 4 speed with a straight 6. it has headers and an eldebrock 600 on an offenhouser dual plane intake. The carb just randomly started acting up the other day and what to try now. it will sputter and just about die when i first let off the clutch then it will suddenly start racin. its really annoying and hard to drive. i checked the inline fuel filter and it should be getting plenty of gas. didn't find any vacuum leaks.
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I have a holley 390 cfm carb on a 78 F250, 300 I6 with headers and an offy dp intake. Somewhere i am getting way too much fuel to the engine and it is sputtering and smoking bad. I have checked the float level, needle and seat, and power valve. All seemed ok but i replaced the power valve and needle and seat on the primary side just to be sure. Even with the float level adjusted way low and the idle mixture screws turned way in the truck would still sputter and spew out black smoke at idle and all throttle positions. I can't figure out where the gas is coming from. I checked to make sure the butterflies were closed and they were. I looked down the throat of the carb when it was running and didn't see any gas rushing in. When i take the carb off the bottom is soaked and the gasket and spacer is all soaked and theres gas sitting in the bottom of my intake. Where is this gas coming from?
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I have an ambient temp switch connected to the vac port on my throttle emissions control solenoid for my 2150 carburetor. It's a 78 F-150 with a 5.0L 302, automatic 2WD. Would a bad ambient temp switch screw up my idle? I've disconnected the vac hose and it won't idle at all, and it does the same thing when I disconnect the two wires from the ambient temp switch. If I leave everything alone, I can get the idle down to around 1800rpm, but any lower than that and it stalls.
Is it possible to swap out this throttle emissions control solenoid with another type? I've looked everywhere and can't find an exact replacement, and I have no instructions on how to tune it.
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I have a motocrap 2bbl on my 73 f-100 all stock 390 when I drop it into gear she wants to sputter and stall without warning at idle runs great but put a load on and forget it what is wrong with this thing?
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I've got a 01 f150 yesterday stopped running (like it ran out of gas). Has half a tank. Fuel pressure at rails good but truck will not turn over. Fuel pump and filter less than year old.
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I just bought another 1991 Ford. This one is a 1/2 ton XLT Lariet with the 302 and for the first time I own a short bed. I also have a 1991 F-250 XLT with a 460 and a 8' bed.
Here is the problem, ( I think) it will not run or at least not for long. The fuel pump, which I am guessing is in the rear tank will not stop running. On the F-250 the pump stops running after a few seconds after I turn on the key.
Where should I start to find out my problem with the fuel system?
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My F250 heavy duty isnt getting voltage to the fuel pump relay.....
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I have a 94 F250 5.8 liter with 96K miles. Can I remove the fuel rail and clean or replace the filter that is placed at the top of the fuel injector?
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I have a 1988 Ford F-250 Lariat, 7.5L 460, four-wheel drive. I have two fuel tanks on it, and I've been having a really annoying, obnoxious problem with it lately. After running it for a while, I noticed that I keep losing fuel pressure, and the truck stalls. When I try to start it, it does nothing but roll over. It just won't start. I've changed the fuel filter, I know both fuel pumps are working (I turn over the key, I can hear front, back, and high pressure pump attached to the left side frame rail kick in.) It's Fuel Injected, not EFI, hence that third pump. The problem happens a lot, and it's random. I could drive for 100 miles, stop to get something to eat, come out, and it won't start.
I thought maybe it was the fuel pressure regulator, but I don't think that's the case because it still runs. I would assume that if the regulator was bad, it wouldn't run at all. I also thought that maybe it was the relay, but according to some mechanics I spoke too, if I can hear the pumps kick in when I turn the key over, then the relay is fine. The only thing I could think of is that it might be the fuel selector switch. Maybe it's going bad, shorting out or something. When I flip the switch though, it switches between fuel tanks, and the gauge reads how much fuel is in it from the sending unit.
There's a schrader-type valve up by the fuel injectors. When I push it in, it barely squirts any fuel out, if at all, so I know the pressure is low. When I push it in on a good day, it sprays out like a water fountain. Just tried starting it again - no good. Pushed on the valve, it spurted out some fuel pretty well, but still won't start. Occasionally tries to, but ultimately won't. I know the spark is good, checked the plugs/distributor cap. Can't get the sucker to start.
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I have a 77 f-250 with a 460 engine and a 4bbl Motorcraft carb and its leaking a substantial amount of fuel out of the newly replaced filter that is attached to the carburetor. The fitting is tight and I even tried buying some small gaskets to seat it, but that didn't work either.
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I am a newbie as far as fuel injection. The original issue the truck had was no fuel. I tracked down the issues to a blown fuel pump relay and a melted inertia switch. I jumped the inertia wires with a new fuel pump relay installed and the truck ran at an idle and up to 3500 RPM when stationary. If the truck is going up a grade or needs more throttle it will start to lose fuel pressure and end up stalling. I had the fuel pressure gauge connected to the schrader valve on the fuel rail and had 30-35 PSI when idling. It runs good under light load on the throttle.
Under heavy load it starts to drop quickly and if you back off the throttle it will stay running some times. I changed the fuel filter and also replaced the high pressure pump on the main frame and it still has the same problems.The original pump was pumping about 13 ounces of fuel in the 20 second test that the repair manual suggested. I have even placed a jumper wire direct to the new fuel pump to bypass original wiring and possible problems. When it stalls under load (No Fuel pressure) at the schrader valve you can hear the fuel pump running but there is no fuel pressure.
If I turn off the ignition for a few minutes and then turn the key back to the on position it will start to pressurize and then start and run at an idle. I even replace the ignition switch as it was a little temperamental. I have not changed or checked the fuel pressure regulator as it is a pain to get to at the back of the engine. I do not want to spend a fortune tracking down this problem since the truck may not even pass its smog inspection and may be a parts truck only.
67 F-250 4x4
73 Crew 4x2 (4x4 Soon)
89 F-250 Super Cab 4x4
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They are about my F250. It is a 92 with 186000 miles. I love this truck.
After a long trip, maybe 1.5 hours, the truck will shudder while I let out the clutch in first gear. This only occurs in first, and it doesn't happen after the truck sits for a bit, just after driving.
I have an opportunity for a good deal on a F150. It is a 2001 with 181,000 miles for $4000. Is it worth updating for the new technology even if there is the same old high mileage issue?
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I got Ford C6 Transmission bolted up to a 460 in a 1978 Ford F250 4x4. I recently had put all new gaskets in it and I change the fluid. The day I put it all back in my reverse was trying to lunge forward, my natural was a 1st gear, and drive was working fine. Now recently my park throws itself into gear. I got no burnt fluid, the clutches were fine when I put it back in???? What could it be, I'm running out of options before I do a manual transmission swap.
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I have a '78 F250 4x4 with the 400 engine and C6 automatic tranny in it. All of the sudden, it won't shift as I'm driving. It will go into reverse, drive, 2, 3, when I'm shifting, stays in the same gear all the time while I'm driving.
I was looking around and I found a hose that I think goes from the top of the tranny to...nothing. A friend said it's a vacuum hose that should go from the shift modulator to the carb. Well, I can't figure out where it should connect to the carburetor. There is a hose towards the front of the carb that was cut off and is plugged with a bolt, but that's been like that since I bought the truck 3 years ago. So if that's where the hose SHOULD go, then something else must have caused the tranny to give up on me.
Tranny has been acting fine until now. And I'm sure that hose should go SOMEWHERE!
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1978 Mercedes 240D ... My clutch pedal loses all function after I drive over 45mph. If I wait 10 minutes, it works again.
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I have a 1984 Ford F-150 with an I6 engine and a motorcraft carburetor. The truck absolutely will not idle. So I got to looking at the carburetor, and found this red hose going from the carb to a metal pipe, the pipe was just dangling there not connected to anything, and the end it rusted off. I'm pretty sure I know where the other end is supposed to go to, I just don't know how to get there as obviously I am missing some parts and I can't find them so they must have been lost on the road somewhere.
Here's how it looks:
The end of the pipe:
Where it is supposed to end (I think)???
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Engine is a late 60's 390 with a C6 auto in good shape with a purported rebuild of about 10-15K miles on it. I picked up a nice condition Autolite 4100 and rebuilt it. Original tag states "C5AF AV" and below that in smaller font: "A 5AC" The base is stamped 1.12. It has the auto choke and auto tranny kickdown.
Truck has been sitting for 4 years so I drained the gas, primed the oil and added 5 fresh gallons. Started up on the second try!! But it won't idle and wants to die unless I feather the gas until it warms up. Also has a bog when accelerating up past 1200 RPM. I've been checking for vacuum leaks but none so far found.
I have a number of questions. But one of the areas I believe I need to correctly adjust is the float level, and here is where I can't get a clear answer or clear explanation of the correct procedures. What is the correct float level? My Sorensen rebuild kit actually had multiple values and the one that looked best had different primary and secondary values. I tried setting it "dry" by the upside down check with the cardboard supplied gauge. Good news is that it is not overflowing so needles and floats seem to be working correctly.
However, how do you do a more accurate wet setting? Appears to be two methods - one is the float setting and the other is the fuel depth. One good thread seems to state that both wet floats should be at 11/16". An engine builder locally said they should both be about level/parallel. Autozone says the primary should be 20/32" and the secondary should be 1 1/16". My rear wet float is almost level and it measures about 15/32". NONE of the data I've been able to find agree on the right setting nor do they explain in detail the correct way to measure using the wet float method.
I've got more questions like the choke settings and the vacuum port for hot air intake (currently open) and only getting 14 inches vacuum (I believe it should be 18 inches) etc., but I'd like to get the floats right before tackling them.
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My truck is a 1990 Ford F150. It seems like when I let it sit for a few min that the gas just drains back into the tank and there for it wont start up that fast, it takes a while to get it going but when I shut it off and start it back up its like a new truck. It starts right up!!! Any tips on what might be wrong, maybe the gas cap is letting pressure out? Im 17 and my dad knows alot about trucks but he cant tell whats wrong.
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My truck starts and runs fine cold. after 10 minutes or so of driving, it starts choking and stalls. If you try to start it, it will not. If you wait about 3 minutes, it is fine, starts , and drives ok, for about 3 minutes. I have replaced, plugs, fuel filter, battery, and a ignition module, as well as cleaned the opening of the throttle body
Ford has ordered a fuel pump, I am thinking it could be the
-Throttle position Sensor?
-MAF sensor?
-fuel pump?
It puts out code p0191 for low fuel pressure. Ford is scheduled to install new pump in am, but I don't want to spend a grand if it is just the TPS or MAf?
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I have an 07 F150 with the 4.6L engine and i was wondering if theres any need to clean my injectors at 30,000km the truck seems to vibrate at idle but not very noticeable seems like a regular v8 rumble but two ppl have pointed it out recently and have riden in my truck a bunch, should i be puttin some injector cleaner in my fuel?
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Well I have a 2150 carb on my '82 truck, I looked in my parts and illustration guide and found what should be a fairly close overhaul kit for my truck based off it being a non high altitude truck and it has A/C and its a 302 with C6 transmission 2 wheel drive.
Down side is the power valve that came with my kit is a two stage power valve and I currently have a single stage power valve.
If I were to use this two stage power valve where would I buy a replacement two stage power valve cover?
Ive been looking but cant find any anywhere and I am to the point of figuring out what power valve my truck has currently so I don't have to put my only vehicle down for multiple days for a simple carb rebuild.
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