I noticed last night while messing with my truck that I have a constant small spark on my throttle linkage on my carb. BTW, it's a 77F250 with a quick fuel Ethanol carb with an electronic choke. That really probably don't make a difference anyway. Is this a common thing and do I need to run a grounding wire from the carb to the rest of the engine?
View 2 RepliesMy truck has developed a bad habit when it is cold (as in outside air below freezing and engine cold): The accelerator pump arm rubs against the throttle arm hard enough to bind the throttle partially open (NEVER a good situation!). I've removed the carb and verified that everything "looks" right:
1) The throttle shaft is in the right location and doesn't have any side to side movement.
2) The accelerator pump arm pivot is straight
3) The accelerator pump arm is straight (It's design makes it a bit difficult to just "bend" the arm side to side and I shouldn't have to do that anyway...)
4) The throttle arm is straight
After taking the arm off and straightening it out (repairing my attempts at a "field" repair...), verifying the linkage and then reinstalling and adjusting the AP, everything was working perfectly on the bench (kitchen table...), so I went ahead and reinstalled the carb (always fun at 10:30pm when it is 7F outside and the freaking wind is blowing at 30mph!).
By the time I got everything bolted down and hooked back up, the carb had cooled off a LOT, and the linkage was once more binding. I have no doubt that if I bring it in and let it warm back up, it will work perfectly.
So, what could be the problem? Do I just need to say the heck with it and hit the side of that lever with a file to get the cold clearance it just doesn't have? I can't imagine that this is a common problem with Holley 4160 carbs...
I have a 77 f-250 with a 460 engine and a 4bbl Motorcraft carb and its leaking a substantial amount of fuel out of the newly replaced filter that is attached to the carburetor. The fitting is tight and I even tried buying some small gaskets to seat it, but that didn't work either.
View 1 RepliesI just had a former Ford tech rebuild my motorcraft 2150 2v on my '77 F250. I took it home, put it back on the truck and it ran kind of rough. I then went ahead and screwed both idle mix screws in untill seated, then back out two turns. The truck ran great, turned off truck then when it the house for dinner. Half an hour later I come back out...truck will not start, just sits and cranks. Finally got it started and it ran good, but crapped out after it warmed up. I have made sure there were no vac leaks when truck was running the first time. Did I adjust the mixture right?
The truck is a '77 F250 400/C6
Have a 1977 ford f150 with 351m with a motorcraft 2150. Had ( who I believe was a reliable source ) rebuild carburetor for me and after putting back on I can only keep engine running with foot on pedal. I turn idle mixture screws all way in and then proceeded to back out equally. This does not appear to be doing anything. I did turn the choke 2 notches to lean and was able to get it to idle but it wasloping so bad i shut it down and put the choke back to the middle setting.
View 13 RepliesThe truck just quit having any throttle control which seemed to be ignition. Way old stuff needed replacing so I went after that. Installed complete new distributer, coil and spark control module. No good. Found spark using checker but not sure what this should really look like. While checking compression found a lot of fuel coming out of number 6 cylinder and nothing out of any of the others. Compression in all cylinders is around 120. Distributor timing at number 1 TDC looks good. I am thinking some fuel system related issue but cannot figure out why so much fuel comes out of the number 6 cylinder.
View 3 RepliesI just rebuilt the Autolite 4100 on the 390 in the 62 T-Bird I just purchased. Starts up and idles great, but when I apply slight throttle, the motor shuts off. If I apply a lot of throttle quickly, it picks up fine and drives with no problems. No sputtering, or backfiring. I just slightly apply the throttle, the RPMs drop, and the motor cuts out completely. Starts right back up when I turn the key, but does the same thing, at any temp.
I originally thought it was a vacuum leak, but checked what few vacuum lines there were, with no leaks to be found. Hooked up my vacuum gauge and it read at a steady 15psi.
New mechanical fuel pump, haven't checked the fuel pressure yet, but I installed a see through inline filter, and it's filled up and pumps fine.
Timing is at 8 degrees, and vacuum advance is hooked up to the only vacuum line in the carb. New cap, rotor, plugs and wires.
I adjusted the idle mixture screws down until the idle dropped, then turned them out a half turn (I've read on here it should only be a 1/4 turn, so I'll adjust that later today). When I was messing with the carb yesterday, I noticed the inlet check ball retaining screw was leaking a bit of fuel, so I went over the carb and checked all the screws and tightened down what needed it.
When I rebuilt the carb, I left the original needle & seat assembly, since they were in great shape, and the ones in the rebuild kit were much smaller. The choke plate needs to be adjusted, as it doesn't open up all the way at full temp, but the engine did the same thing with the plate held open all the way open.
I've gone through everything else I think it could be, so I'm figuring it's the carb. This is my second carb rebuild ever (first was a Motorcraft 2150) and it went smoothly, and I double checked the floats and measurements.
I picked up a 90 f150 with the 302. it wont idle without a little throttle, so after a quick look under the hood i noticed alot of broken torn and missing vacuum lines. Where I can get some sort of diagram for routing?
View 1 RepliesI just bought another 1991 Ford. This one is a 1/2 ton XLT Lariet with the 302 and for the first time I own a short bed. I also have a 1991 F-250 XLT with a 460 and a 8' bed.
Here is the problem, ( I think) it will not run or at least not for long. The fuel pump, which I am guessing is in the rear tank will not stop running. On the F-250 the pump stops running after a few seconds after I turn on the key.
Where should I start to find out my problem with the fuel system?
My F250 heavy duty isnt getting voltage to the fuel pump relay.....
View 2 RepliesI have a 94 F250 5.8 liter with 96K miles. Can I remove the fuel rail and clean or replace the filter that is placed at the top of the fuel injector?
View 10 RepliesI have a 1988 Ford F-250 Lariat, 7.5L 460, four-wheel drive. I have two fuel tanks on it, and I've been having a really annoying, obnoxious problem with it lately. After running it for a while, I noticed that I keep losing fuel pressure, and the truck stalls. When I try to start it, it does nothing but roll over. It just won't start. I've changed the fuel filter, I know both fuel pumps are working (I turn over the key, I can hear front, back, and high pressure pump attached to the left side frame rail kick in.) It's Fuel Injected, not EFI, hence that third pump. The problem happens a lot, and it's random. I could drive for 100 miles, stop to get something to eat, come out, and it won't start.
I thought maybe it was the fuel pressure regulator, but I don't think that's the case because it still runs. I would assume that if the regulator was bad, it wouldn't run at all. I also thought that maybe it was the relay, but according to some mechanics I spoke too, if I can hear the pumps kick in when I turn the key over, then the relay is fine. The only thing I could think of is that it might be the fuel selector switch. Maybe it's going bad, shorting out or something. When I flip the switch though, it switches between fuel tanks, and the gauge reads how much fuel is in it from the sending unit.
There's a schrader-type valve up by the fuel injectors. When I push it in, it barely squirts any fuel out, if at all, so I know the pressure is low. When I push it in on a good day, it sprays out like a water fountain. Just tried starting it again - no good. Pushed on the valve, it spurted out some fuel pretty well, but still won't start. Occasionally tries to, but ultimately won't. I know the spark is good, checked the plugs/distributor cap. Can't get the sucker to start.
Is it possible to take an 'throttle emissions control solenoid" off a 2150 Carburetor and swap it with a different solenoid, say something like an idle swap?? I can't find a new throttle emissions control solenoid, but I see plenty of idle stops.
View 3 RepliesI am a newbie as far as fuel injection. The original issue the truck had was no fuel. I tracked down the issues to a blown fuel pump relay and a melted inertia switch. I jumped the inertia wires with a new fuel pump relay installed and the truck ran at an idle and up to 3500 RPM when stationary. If the truck is going up a grade or needs more throttle it will start to lose fuel pressure and end up stalling. I had the fuel pressure gauge connected to the schrader valve on the fuel rail and had 30-35 PSI when idling. It runs good under light load on the throttle.
Under heavy load it starts to drop quickly and if you back off the throttle it will stay running some times. I changed the fuel filter and also replaced the high pressure pump on the main frame and it still has the same problems.The original pump was pumping about 13 ounces of fuel in the 20 second test that the repair manual suggested. I have even placed a jumper wire direct to the new fuel pump to bypass original wiring and possible problems. When it stalls under load (No Fuel pressure) at the schrader valve you can hear the fuel pump running but there is no fuel pressure.
If I turn off the ignition for a few minutes and then turn the key back to the on position it will start to pressurize and then start and run at an idle. I even replace the ignition switch as it was a little temperamental. I have not changed or checked the fuel pressure regulator as it is a pain to get to at the back of the engine. I do not want to spend a fortune tracking down this problem since the truck may not even pass its smog inspection and may be a parts truck only.
67 F-250 4x4
73 Crew 4x2 (4x4 Soon)
89 F-250 Super Cab 4x4
My 1981 302 dosent like this 4160 apparently. When i start my truck it shudders on first seconds of startup and whenever i touch the throttle. It runs and operates, but im getting concerned.
View 1 RepliesI was using the method of spraying starter fluid around the intake and found a pretty significant vacuum leak around the throttle shaft on the drivers side. The carb is a 2 barrel holley. What are some different ways to seal a throttle shaft vacuum leak? Could I take it apart and seal it with a plastic O-ring for now?
View 2 RepliesCarburetor: Autolite 4100
Fast Idle Speed: 1250 RPM
Curb Idle Speed: 600 RPM (At normal operating temperature)
When I cold start my truck, the fast idle speed holds the throttle at 1500 RPM. I will let it idle about 30 seconds or so, and then I will tap the gas to bring the idle down.
When I do this, the idle will immediately drop all the way down, and too low for a cold engine. The engine won't stall, but it will hover just below 500 RPM, which is a bit too low to idle smoothly.
But when the engine is at operating temperature, the idle speed is 600 RPM and the engine will happily idle smoothly.
Shouldn't there be an "in between" speed? When I tap the gas pedal at 1500 RPM to bring the idle down some, shouldn't the speed drop down a little lower, like 1000 RPM since the engine is still a bit cold?
If so, what do I need to adjust? The Autolite 4100 works PERFECTLY otherwise.
My 2012 F250 has begun making a noise. The noise is coming from somewhere in the linkage (drivetrain). It sounds like new knobby tires on a paved road but not constant more like (rrrr-rrrr-rrrr). The frequency of the noise increases the faster the vehicle moves. It does not make the sound while revving the engine in park and the noise does not change between dirt road of paved road, so I'm pretty sure it's not the tires or the engine. Could it be something like the tachometer needing lubricant??? Its kind of loud.
View 12 RepliesI have a 77 F250 with a NP 205, when I lock it into 4H the 4wd works, when I lock it into 4L it goes into low range but the 4wd does not work. What the problem could be?
View 1 RepliesI have a 77 ford f100 I am restoring. I have two factory am/fm radios. I bench test both with antenna male plug all the way in, and the fm works fine on both radios. The only way to get am to work, is to slide the male antenna plug all the way out till it is just touching, then if I jiggle it, the radio plays.
View 1 RepliesI decided to do some work on the engine bay of my '77 Datsun 280Z. I would like to know whether it is possible to remove the vacuum lines from the system, and if so, what would be the effect on the AC system? If I understand it correctly, the AC selector and mode doors are mechanically operated and vacuum lines assist in opening (i) the air intake door and (ii) the mode door?
View 10 Replies