Ford Fuel System :: 1972 - Run The Carb With Choke Permanently Open?
Sep 2, 2009
So I picked up a 2 barrel carburetor of a 1972 Ford Truck, most likely an F250. Has a tag and everything, this is a Motorcraft 2100-D (D2TF JB). No electric choke or anything like that. So I'm wondering if I can run the carb with choke permanently open? Also is there an electric choke conversion that I can buy, if so where is it? I can't seem to find one. Also what are the adjustments? I seem to have 2 needle valves to adjust and one other.
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I picked up a remaned 2100 for my '72 and I found out choke vacuum control on the back of the carb is frozen. I can't find anyone who carries it, let alone knows what it is. Are these parts still produced and if not is there another way to make it work?
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I have an old Autolite, tag reads- C9AF C C 9E 16. Need to break that down? Just wondering what it came off of.
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I have not run my bronco in a while and cranked it up the other night. It took a while to crank and usually cranks right up! When it finally cranked, I could see fire on my carb through my air filter!
What caused that and how do I fix?
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The choke is never setting. Something in my throttle linkage is wrong or sticky and it doesn't flip up the lever that engages the choke?
Hard to explain. Hopefully, the video makes it clear?
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The gasket blew out on the choke (tube) plate on my 460. The one that sits on the engine with the tubes running up to the choke.
Do I need to apply a gasket sealer when I replace it or does it just go on dry? I've read some conflicting opinions on it. A tad on the corners to hold it in place. Put it on dry or put sealer on it.
I know when I remove it I will be able to tell but since I don't have any hi temp sealant. I'd rather buy some when I get the gasket than go back.
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I have a newly remanufactured Holley 1835 carb which has had an electric choke added to it. My '59 F-100 has the original electrical system in place. Where would you recommend running the positive and negative wires from the choke? No instructions came with the carb.
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I picked up a renamed 2100 for my '72 and I found out choke vacuum control on the back of the carb is frozen. Are these parts still produced and if not is there another way to make it work?
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I bought a new Holley 600 CFM 4150 with electric choke for my 79 ford F 250 with 400 engine. If I start the truck cold the choke works as it should and after driving 10 or so minutes it runs fine off choke. When I restart the truck after stopping for gas or food it goes back on high idle even with the engine temp at 180 degrees. Should it go on high idle even on a hot day fully warmed up every time i start it? I don't remember my last 600 doing it.
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I am having problems with my automatic choke. Holley 80457. When I turn on the ignition and depress the accelerator, the choke plate does not close. It is wired and has vacuum.
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Pulled codes awhile ago...got a 96. Says "Fuel Pump Circuit Open"-Battery to ECA (1988 On). What is an ECA maybe the Pump Relay? And does this thing have a fuse for the fuel pump in the panel. Fuel Pumps not getting any juice.
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I've got a 2012 base model Golf. The key fob does not work and I have to lock the car manually. The issue is when I unlock the car, the alarm goes off. Quite annoying in early morning hours or in full parking lots with people staring at me. I'm looking to either disable the honking portion of the alarm, or just completely disable it.
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My RX350 2012/13 model AWD check system and slip indicator warning light are permanently ON on the dashboard. The car is driving normal. How to clear the indications because I am very uncomfortable with it.
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I have a 98 Grand Cherokee (V-8) with 127K on it, that sometimes during cold starts acts like an old carburetor system with the choke sticking. It floods, chokes, it sputters, and you have to maintain an RPM of about 2000 to keep it running and get it to snap out of it. A local shop did a tune up on it before this problem started to happen intermittently, aside from this, it seems to run well. I took it back to the shop and they did several diagnostic tests and even got it to do it for them while they had it.
I told them that it seemed like if we released the key from the start position as soon as it began to fire, the problem would happen, if we held it I the start for a bit longer we could usually avoid it. They returned it to me saying that "Yup, if you hold the start position longer it won't happen, and by the way here is a bill for $103." With the recent below zero temps, it's getting worse, almost unavoidable. My wife says it uses a lot of fuel when this is happening but we have not actually tracked the mileage. Other than this it's a great car but I'm ready to drive it off a high mountain cliff.
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I have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
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I went to move the 2000 yesterday and it will not start because the gas went bad. It has been sitting about 6 months, since it did not snow this past winter. How do I go about cleaning the fuel system? I was thinking suck the gas tank empty with an electric fuel pump, and blowing out the lines with air. Does this sound right?
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This van has had a couple of fuel pumps, no surprise there, and i need to look through my paperwork and find out how many miles the current one has on it, but it has the STRANGEST habit I've ever had on any vehicle. Starts fine, runs fine, no fuel pump noise when van is running, and when you turn it off, the fuel pump creeks on and off for several minutes.
I mean a strange creaking noise almost like a shorted electrical device or a vehicle's brakes when you park it on a hill and the breaks creak as it settles into place. I'm probably doing a lousy job of describing this but i don't know how else to describe it!
ALSO, if you lay under the van and wait til it stops creaking, you can tap the bottom of the tank and it will creak for a few more seconds. You can tap repeatedly and make it creak more. Is it about to explode? Can i trust it on a road trip?
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I have a F-250 4WD with 7.5L which has a MC/Holley 4180c sitting on top. It was getting very poor mpg (like 5-6 miles/gal) and then was getting harder and harder to start. This progressed rather quickly to not starting with fuel coming out of the primary vent tube. I suspect it has to do with the primary float stuck open. I was considering rebuilding the carburetor. Is this over reaction prematurely or is there something like float adjustment that may rectify all of the symptoms described. If a rebuild is in order what is the information I would need to ensure getting the correct rebuild kit. Info that I have so far from research is it is Motorcraft ID #E5HE-9510-MC.
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What would make a FI engine act like its flooding out and dying after a short run on the freeway?
Details:
1994 F-350 351W (just overhauled this winter)
has new TPS, ICM(?).
Dual exhaust dumps right before the tires
new filters in tanks, new fuel filter on frame rail
All fuel lines have been opened and blown out from the tank to the engine compartment fitting near firewall.
Fuel pumps hold good pressure when tested.
Symptoms:
smells like its running rich most all the time
after a short hiway run @ 70MPH it will stumble and die when returning to surface streets.
fuel smell near engine sometimes, but no obvious puddles or leaks anywhere.
May be related?:
When on a longer highway run, I can't use the FWD tank for a long period without the engine stumbling and cutting out or popping at times. But I can swap to the rear tank for a bit then run the FWD tank again for a while. driving up hills it seems to be worse, but I'm in the panhandle of TX right now..good grief!
I am having to drive this truck for work long distances. While I dont expect a vast fuel range, it would be nice if I could go a couple hundred miles on 20 gallons of gas....
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I just bought another 1991 Ford. This one is a 1/2 ton XLT Lariet with the 302 and for the first time I own a short bed. I also have a 1991 F-250 XLT with a 460 and a 8' bed.
Here is the problem, ( I think) it will not run or at least not for long. The fuel pump, which I am guessing is in the rear tank will not stop running. On the F-250 the pump stops running after a few seconds after I turn on the key.
Where should I start to find out my problem with the fuel system?
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I have a 95 F150 4x4 reg cab long box with a 302 V8 and dual tanks... I was driving around yesterday when my truck started to lung and then the motor stalled... when I stopped moving I tried starting the truck and it started with no problem, so as i kept on my way, about 5 minutes later the same thing happened and it stalled again, (I have an automatic by the way). but this time before it stopped moving i pump the gas a few times and it fired back up and then stalled again... i switched from my front take to by back maybe thinking it could me my fuel pump in the tank but it did the same thing again about same time later... Would it be my fuel filter on the frame (like in line fuel filter) or why is it doing that? its EFI by the way.
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