Ford - Focus :: Stalling Only When Warmed Up
Feb 27, 2011
My car stalls when I come to a stop but only in warmer weather (50 degrees or higher) and only after I have driven the car for 20 minutes or so then come to a stop. There is no check engine light on, no high temperature warning. I can start it back up (not a battery problem) easily, but as soon as I take my foot off the gas to put it in drive, it stalls. However, when I've let the engine cool, it's drivable again (until I come to a stop again).
I have taken it in to the repair shop after it has done this twice. Their computer check shows everything working fine and there ar no errors. Of course, by that time, then engine has cooled and they can't reproduce the stalling. I am dreading the upcoming warm weather because it's just a matter of time before I am stranded again. I don't know what to do if I can't get a diagnosis and repair!
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
my 2000 focus se, 2.0L SPI, with 82k began to recently run rough at idle then progressed to stalling at longer lengths of idle. The condition starts once the engine warms after 2-5 minutes. I 1st tried gas treatment. I replaced the ignition coil as suggested in the other threads, but it has not improved the problem. I had the fuel pump recall-replaced 2 years ago. I would guess that a bad fuel pump would exhibit loss of power at all engine speeds? Before I proceed to replace plug wires and plugs.
View 14 Replies
I have a question about my 2000 Ford Focus. It has problems in the cold. When the air temperature is below -5 or so, after driving a short while (before the engine is up to temperature) if you come to a stop and the the engine go to idle it will stall. It does this while the car is still in motion (as it is a manual) and you aren't in gear coming to a stop light.
View 1 Replies
Why my 03 focus zx5 will stall in reverse. I have had the tranny serviced. I can drive it and then let it sit for about an hour and then try to reverse in it and it dies. I have change the mac, tps, iac sensors. I am at a loss for why this is happening. I also changed the pvc hose that runs from the back of the motor to the pvc valve.
View 14 Replies
My 2004 Ford Focus Hatchback has 152,000 miles on it. At the end of last year the engine started dying/stalling as soon as I started it - I would have to keep my foot on the gas to keep the engine going. I took it to the dealer and they put in a WHOLE NEW THROTTLE BODY. They also told me I needed a new battery and updated the car's software. Total $700. About a week to 10 days later, the car started doing the dying out after starting thing again - intermittently - didn't matter if the engine was hot or cold, fuel high or low, weather rainy, cold or clear and warm.
This morning I worked for 20 minutes to keep the engine going, made sure the engine was warm, and it STILL stalled out. I called in for a tow, called the dealer and said I'd be coming in, went back out to the car ... and it started right up without stalling. Drove it to the dealer and they've now told me they can't find anything at all wrong with the car. They are keeping it overnight to see if they can duplicate the stalling tomorrow morning. Any thoughts? The new throttle body cost me about $500 in December. (Don't know if it matters, but the defroster fan was super loud this morning, but once the engine was able to idle, the loudness disappeared ...). It's been a great car, but maybe it's time to start looking.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2008 Ford Focus - 4 Door Sedan SE 60300 miles.
I've gone to 3 mechanics now and no one can seem to figure out whats wrong with my car. Here's whats happening:
About 1 1/2 years ago I took my car to get an oil change at Jiffy Lube (Yeah never again). When I left, my car was idling funny... Silly me didn't take it right back and have them tell me what was wrong.. so I let it go, well about a month later it started idling even weirder. Basically it feels like my car is shaking when it gets under 1000 RPM and I notice my RPM dial start falling and bouncing back, acting like its going to stall, but never does. I notice a loss of power when this is happening (on speed up and just accelerating in general). All of this is random, I can't seem to put a pattern to it as to when it happens. One day I'll start it up and everything is perfect... Then I'll shut it off and restart it later, and it starts vibrating and puttering again... No signals as to if its hot/cold or wet/dry, no environmental variables seem to cause it to happen anymore than others. And there is no check engine light on, everything "looks" normal.
What I've had done to it so far is:
Air filter changed / reseated
3 oil changes (keep getting told it will work)
Throttle cleaned
Computer reset for idle sensor data rebuilding
Now I'm told that I need new engine mounts, and that could be the reason for the vibration. I'm thinking that the vibration caused the mounts to wear out, more so than the mounts being the cause. Mainly because I don't see how bad mounts could cause loss in power/bad idling.
What could be wrong?!? Really bugging me and don't want to keep throwing money at it for phantom solutions. Seems like mechanics I go to can't figure it out unless there is a check engine light on with some diagnosis code to tell them exactly whats wrong.
View 8 Replies
I have a 2001 Ford Focus ZX3 (2D Hatchback) that has been randomly stalling since we bought it. There is no engine light, the dealership couldn't get it to stall and just gave it back. Another garage got it to stall and thought it might be the "idle-oxygen sensor" (not sure if I'm remembering the name correctly), but that didn't stop it from stalling either.
My wife is ready to dump it, but even spending a couple thousand a year on repairs is less than the grand total of a year's payments on a new car, insurance, etc. But it would be nice to fix it.
View 8 Replies
My daughter's automatic DOHC SE Focus had suddenly been stalling, becoming harder to start and not maintaining a steady idle. I took it to our semi-trusted repair shop and was told it needed an EGR valve, plugs, coil, and ignition wires. $580! These all seemed like repairs I could do and so I have worked through all of these. I replaced the EGR valve and that seemed to make the problem actually worse. (so I put the old one back in) I put in new plugs and that improved the idle a small amount. Then I put in the new coil and that seemed to steady the idle a bit more. But here is what I have discovered through my many test drives after making these incremental repairs: The car starts now from cold very well and runs great for the first 20 minutes or so but...when it gets hot after 15 minutes or so of 50 mph driving, the idle drops and the engine wants to cut off. At low revs it seems to stumble and lose power. I think this is what my daughter was experiencing originally and none of my early test drives were long enough to surface the original problem. I have read that the Idle Control Valve might be a culprit in this sort of behavior.
View 5 Replies
I purchased a 2001 Ford Focus 7/17 from a Ford dealer. While my daughter was driving, at a left turn, the engine light came on, the car stalled, and the steering wheel and gas pedal locked up. A friend did a computer scan and said the code came back that 2 sensors, the crank shaft and cam shaft sensors, needed replaced. So we had them replaced.
About 4 days later, while driving home from school, on a right turn, the car broke down again on my daughter. She said the symptoms were the same, engine light came on, car stalled, the steering wheel and gas pedal locked up. So we had it towed to a local Ford service department. They said the ignition coils needed replaced and the valve cover gasket would eventually need replaced (per the mechanic, this wasn't directly related to the issue but a small leakage was found). So we let the Ford mechanic replace the coils and the valve gasket cover. They ran several tests and put 20 additional miles on the car without failures or issues, scans came up clean.
So while driving to school this morning, on a u-turn, my daughter experienced the issue again....car stalled, engine light came on, steering wheel and gas pedal locked up. After sitting a few minutes, the car started up so she drove it home and hitched a ride from dad to get to school.
View 6 Replies
Stalls when warmed up. Runs great when cold. Replaced coolant sensor and cleaned mass airflow sensor. Cleaned throttle body. Checked for codes but nothing there. Reset the idle a few times by disconnecting/reconnecting the battery.
View 6 Replies
I bought the car 3 years ago 2003 2.4L Hyundai Santa fe , I have driven it around 200 miles ( to and from shops ), I am having an issue now where once the car is warmed up ( post 15 mins ) It will idle really low * almost stalling * and oil pressure light will flicker, If I hold the brake and get it to almost 800 - 1k RPM it goes off and driving is not an issue *no knock*. I just got it driving for the 1st time in the past year, and drove it for about 45 mins in stop an go traffic, Temp light was all the way to cold, once stopped in stop and go traffic it would go up half way, as soon as I could get above 50mph it would slowly work itself all the way to the bottom?
More Information
2003 2.4L Hyundai Santa fe
I should really count my losses and move on but I cant.
Bought the car with 89K on it I now have 90K
New Battery
New Radiator
New Motor mounts 3
New Trans mount 1
New Hoses
Oil Change ( 40 miles ago )
Trans Oil Change ( 40 miles ago )
Power Steering Fluid change ( 40 miles ago )
2nd cat delete ( didn't want to waste any more money )
After Market 1st Cat
View 2 Replies
I'm having continued issues with my mom's POS 2005 Hyundai Accent. It usually runs great cold, but once it's warmed up, it will stall out while driving. This almost always happens when accelerating from a stop. After it stalls, you have to let it set for 30 seconds to a minutes before it will start again. It will also sometimes idle roughly.
I've changed out the TPS and the MAP sensor, the battery, the CPS, the fuel pump, and the spark plugs. I did find that the radiator bypass hose was leaking on to the wiring for the O2 sensor. I fixed that, and the wires appear to be fine. I've sprayed throttle cleaner around the intake and can't find a leak. I scanned the ODB codes and I'm getting a Random misfire, misfire on cylinders 1, 2, 3, and 4, the Throttle Position Sensor and the MAP sensor, both of which have been replaced.
Tonight during my troubleshooting I was trying the wiggle test on the various connectors and got zapped when I was wiggling the coil pack connectors. Is that normal? I'm starting to suspect a wiring or electrical issue, but I'm not sure how to troubleshoot that.
View 28 Replies
I've got a 1997 Nissan Altima (automatic, GXE). Recently it has started stalling. Usually this happens when the engine has warmed up to normal operating temperature (though last night it happened when the engine had just started).
Usually when it stalls it will start right back up, but sometimes it takes a few minutes. Sometimes it will start back up and die right away, other times it will turn over and over but not start. After a few minutes it will start back up. Sometimes it will stall momentarily and then restart right away, but not usually.
The rest of the time the car runs smooth as ever, no surging, no stalling, no erratic idling, no sputtering or anything. Usually the check engine light will come on after a stall, but I get a "no code" code when I check.
This started about two weeks ago, it did it once on a Saturday and then didn't do it again until Wednesday. Since then it has happened at least once a day, and yesterday it happened a lot while I was driving home, but not at all when I headed to work. Today it was fine for about 15 minutes and then started doing it a lot, but the last 3 or 4 miles it was fine again.
What may be the problem? I'm going to check the MAF and throttle position sensors, though I would assume if they were malfunctioning I'd either have more symptoms or I'd be getting a code.
View 10 Replies
I am trying to understand why my truck will not accelerate until it has warmed up some...
View 5 Replies
My Aerostar is a 93 extended EB with 4.0, AT, 212k mostly reliable miles, and blue and gold paint that has held up remarkably well. When started it runs great; smooth idle, easy revs, normal as can be. But when that third pip on the digital temp gauge hits Normal the van becomes possessed. The idle will randomly drop or surge or return to normal, the check engine light will come on for a few seconds then go off, all without pattern, just kinda crazy. Today I held it at 2k rpm, then it bogged down to like 800 rpm and lit the CEL, then it returned to 2k rpm and the light cleared, swung up to 2.5k, all while I hold the throttle steady. The light does not always come on when it bogs. I see no black smoke from the exhaust and it smells normal, but it was kinda windy today.
The check engine light is not lit otherwise so I assume no hard codes are stored. I think I found the code retrieval process for the OBDI but I have not done that yet. After reading a bit in this forum I thought to clean the MAP sensor, but I do not have security torx bits to remove it yet. As background a few years ago it had an oil leak from the top rear which I ignored, and it slowly rotted a harness back there till one day the harness died leaving me running on 3 cylinders. My local Speedy Lube guy was ex Ford dealership and knew Aerostars, he did the diagnosis and repair and said it was a common problem. But he has moved on. I was also told I have a torn boot on a plug wire, but there's no way to get my ham-like paws back in there, from front or back, to verify or replace. I mention all this as background, I doubt a bad plug wire is the issue here.
It seems like an odd problem to me because the only pattern is related to operating temp. It is not a constant problem, not an intermittent glitch, but it very definitely goes nuts right when it achieves normal temp. Aside from pulling the codes, which I will figure out tomorrow, any other tests I can run to diagnosis? Any way I can trick this thing into thinking it is cold all the time?
View 8 Replies
I have a 95 Ranger that when warmed up completely will buck when I let off of the gas. It is a 5 speed and this problem really only happens in 3rd gear and also have noticed it doesn't happen in 4WD. When the engine is cold and I am driving and let off the gas, the truck coasts smooth as silk and as it warms up, there becomes a louder thump when the gas is let off.
It will not do it all the time and it really only happens in third gear at low RPM's coming to a stop. I can give it gas and it picks right back up normally, so I doubt it is a misfire. Also since the truck is a 95 I do not have any CEL indicators, nor is there even a CEL light built into the dash in the truck. It isn't a huge issue because I am used to it and can drive it accordingly without having a problem.
View 13 Replies
When truck warms up I lose reverse. I changed fluid and tranny filter and I am still having the problem...
View 1 Replies
Got a 2013 F-150 with a start problem after warm. If I let it sit with battery disconnected it will start up. When it will not start it acts like a no spark issue.
View 1 Replies
My 1982 Ford Granada has a slow, external antifreeze leak that I can't seem to pinpoint. It happens only when the car is running and warmed up (pressure in the system). It dosen't leak when cold and sitting. Are leak stopper additives any good? Or, will such additives clog my radiator (fairly new) or ruin the water pump or thermostat?
View 17 Replies
In the morning, she starts great. Right up. And that's the least time she'll start until tomorrow's morning. Once in a while I'll turn the key and nothing happens, all of my lights are on like normal, but once I turn the key to start, absolutely nothing happens. Next morning, started right up. I can't leave her running everywhere I go. This is my first diesel, I just bought her with 265k miles, looks like she was well taken care of. But she doesn't like to start since the day after I bought her. New alternator because Ford told me, battery light doesn't come on, she still won't start once warm.
View 14 Replies
I have a 96 F350 Crewcab longbed 4x4 and about a week ago I noticed that at idle speed (ie stopping at a stop light) the temperature of the air coming out of the A/C warmed up to ambient temperature. When I accelerated and held highway speed the air would cool back down. i listened for the clutch to engage and it would engage for 1 second and then disengage for 5 seconds. i hooked up one of those cheap gauges from auto zone. With the truck running the clutch would engage at 40 stay on until it went to 20 and the shut off. Also the A/C has completely quit cooling. By the way its HOT here.
View 6 Replies
