Ford - Focus :: Engine Cut Out While Driving And Would Not Restart - No Codes
Jun 8, 2011
I was driving my 2002 Ford Focus, when the engine cut out & would not restart.The starter cranked the engine over, I had plenty of gas,and the battery is almost new.After getting the car towed home, I hooked up an OBD II Autoscanner.The scanner showed no codes, and said the car passed the scan test.
I was expecting a sensor code, a fuel pressure code or an ignition coil code. The car had done this once before - but the code reader had correctly shown a faulty crank sensor.
I don't see any loose wires or anything obvious that popped off while driving.BTW, it was a smooth road & I was only doing about 50 mph. Where should I start troubleshooting?What would cause the engine to stop but not show a code?
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My 1990 Toyota Corolla which I hate to retire has only 64,000 miles on it. Starts and runs but while I am driving the dash lights up and the engine shuts off and won't restart. He thinks it is the NEC (?) switch but he said he is not really sure. Spending all that money and then finding out it is not fixed would not be worth it. It also is dangerous what if I am on the expressway?
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I recently bought a 1998 F150 with 4.6 . I've been having problems starting it after I drive it awhile... When I try to restart it, it just clicks out on the firewall... The difference in what I've read about this problem and mine is that after 30 or 40 minutes mine starts right up , so far . I know the battery is good and I put a new solenoid , battery cable ends and a neutral safety switch . I just can't pinpoint the problem...
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I am having trouble with drive ability. It is getting worse with no engine codes. Car idles fine, but misses. While driving and almost any speed. Drove with dealer today and he got a "misfire on 3?"
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My 2002 Ford Focus ZX5 has had a low idle (not unsteady) for about a year. Just thought I needed a tune-up. Recently, it started surging and bucking between 40 and 50 MPH. Seems to run fine under acceleration, but then when backing off the accelerator, it starts the surging/bucking. The check engine light is on constantly. A diagnostic pointed to the EGR valve, which I replaced, but it didn't solve anything.
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I have a 2000 Ford Focus with about 145,000 miles on it. When I'm driving I can hear a drumming noise. The faster I go the louder and more fast paced the drumming noise becomes. When I hit about 50 I can hear it, and the faster I go the louder it is. At about 60 the car starts to shake a little bit. When I'm going like 20 or 30 or so, it sounds like I can almost hear my tires turning if that makes sense. The noise is really loud and is starting to concern me. A friend said my CV boots are ripped, but before I take it into a mechanic I would like some non biased opinions.
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2001 Ford Focus ZTS manual. Squeaking/scraping is the best that I can describe it, happens sometimes while driving maybe 20 mph. Also makes a rapid clicking noise when starting from a stop, groaning noise with engine on/off while turning wheel from same area. I did pads/rotors last year. I had play in the wheel, axle nut was loose, tightened and went away. I can't find any problems. It can make some noises under heavy braking and it was making noise from moderate braking, I'm guessing that's my cheap rotors.
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My wife has an '03 Ford Expedition with 110k miles on it. It began dying while driving. Sometimes while moving. Other times when stopping or idling. She would describe that sometimes when it began acting like it was going to die she could "give it gas" and it would revive, other times that wouldn't work. It would usually restart after one or two tries. Our local mechanic did a tune up and replaced a coil. During the trip she began hearing a sound of "metal shredding" and the car died and wouldn't restart. She had it towed to a ford dealer. They replaced the IAC valve.
After that the dying would continue but instead of dying right away it would "lose acceleration, and eventually die within a few seconds" Took it to another ford dealership and they replaced the fuel pump and relay. It would work fine for a few weeks and then start dying again. Another local mechanic noted the error code P0231 "Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low" He kept it for a few weeks and was able to get it to die for him once but not again. The dying continued. Sometimes it would work great for weeks, other times it would die continually on the same trip. Took it to a 3rd dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong.It dies in the cold and in the heat. Usually after driving at least 20 minutes into a trip. Once it dies once it will typically continue to do so until resting for a day or so. Sometimes with a full tank of gas, sometimes with a low tank.
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I was driving my truck down my driveway and it just shut off, it will not start, when I turn on the key the fuel pump will not run and when I try to start it the engine will not turn over. Neither the starter or fuel pump relay click. When I turn the key to the on position all the lights and radio still work. When the key is on the small red light on top of the dash begins to flash rapidly. My boss tried to hook his snap-on scanner to the obd2 port but it will not let him retrieve any of the codes and continuously tells him to cycle the key through the on and off positions giving zero results.
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My Brothers truck died while driving and won't restart. I am going to be getting IDS on it tomorrow night and just wanted some feedback on things to watch. I am planning to watch FICM sync, ICP pressure, IPR %, FICM voltage, and fuel pressure(not in IDS). Anything else I should watch while testing?
Edit: this truck is a 2005
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I have a 2010 F150 SCREW with 4.6l 3v 4wd. Up to 100,000 miles nothing more than tires, brakes, and evap purge valve (50,000 miles). Check engine light came on right around 100,000 miles and had no driving problems other than some crappy fuel mileage. Did the following:
Changed evap purge valve, reset cpu by unplugging. CEL came back on after about 200 miles
Took the truck to a shop to get oil change, change plugs, diff fluids, transfer case fluid and get CEL looked at. Shop recommended changing intake gasket as you could see gummy type fluid on passenger side valve cover. When removing the intake found the intake cracked, changed gasket and intake. They reset the light. 200 to 250 miles later the CEL came back on.
Took it back to the same shop, left it with them for the weekend. they think it could be the O2 sensors. I went out and got the shop all 4 O2 sensors and they installed for free (seeing as I spent $2500 with them for all the previous weekends work) 200 to 250 miles CEL came back on
Determined to find time to have another shop look at the problem and trying to get it to a family friend, wasted about a month. At the end of February stopped at a friends house after being there for 20 minutes tried to start truck, it wouldn't fire. It would crank but no fire. Called for a tow and while waiting tried to crank the truck and it fired up, like nothing was wrong. Cancelled the tow truck and drove right to dealership. They determined it was the MAF sensor. Spent the $500 to have them diagnose and change MAF. All things good for about a month and about 3000 miles...
Now in the past 2 weeks it has done the following: I am a construction manager so i am in and out of my truck all day so the engine is never really a cold start except for the mornings when driving to work, it stalled while leaving work on a Friday at low speed. luckily I was able to pull in to a gas station. Tried to restart and it cranked but no fire. after 5 minutes or so tried again, fired up drove home the 35 miles with no problem, truck had power, smooth idle. No CEL.
Same weekend on Sunday, coming home from church at highway speed truck got sluggish, wrench light came on, no response to throttle. Rolled to a stop and then the oil light came on and chime from dash. Turned the key all the way off waited 10 seconds, again crank but no start. Waited 5 minutes and it fired up no problem. Church is only 3 or 4 miles away, no problem going to church, 2 miles into the trip home is when it stalled.
Drove all week, 500 plus miles without a stall or problem
Coming home on Saturday from my kids soccer game again 4 or 5 miles away (no problem going to game) truck stalled at highway speed. Coast to a stop, wrench comes on and then oil light, chimes from dash. Turn key off, wrench and oil light do not come back on. Try to start, again crank but no fire. waited the 5 minutes or so and it fired up fine. (Earlier in the day i got gas, 87 octane, from a one of my regular gas stations from 1/4 tank to full)
Today coming home from church but running an errant the truck stalls after making a left turn about 3 miles from the church at low speed.
All of this without a CEL. What can solve this problem. Clean a sensor? clean throttle body? Gas tank additives? I am due for an oil change and may ask the dealer to look at it but its going to be time consuming as I cant radially repeat the problem and there is no CEL. As I am thinking about the different times it stalled, other than the first time I was probably around 1900 to 2300 rpm.
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Three times recently my 2008 Touring Edition Prius has experienced a shutdown of the engine while driving. Each time I was able to coast and/or use battery power to get to a safe location. The “Triangle-of-Death” and the Check Engine Light was illuminated on the dashboard. Since my car is equipped with a scangauge, I was able to see the codes and clear them on the spot. After restarting the car, it showed no adverse reaction to shutting down and all was seemingly well until the next event. The codes listed below all seem to be communication lapses.
My question is; where do I start in my pursuit to diagnose and repair?
7/15/14 - 98,889 miles U0293 and U0100
7/23/14 - 99,414 miles U0293 and U0100
8/21/14 - 101,065 miles U0100 and U0000
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Problem: Vibration together with a noise that sounds abrasive and destructive. Mechanics have failed me.
It feels like driving over the intense short rumble strips that are meant to tell you when a wheel is outside the traffic lane. I feel and hear it in any gear, whether I am moving or not, but hardly at all in Park or Neutral, and hardly at all when cruising at high speeds. It is worst on the first drive of the day - much less on subsequent drives, even if the engine has been allowed to cool fully.
History: When this began, less than 600 miles ago, I had the transmission checked, where I had warranty coverage.
Found: No transmission trouble but a broken engine mount.
I had the engine mount replaced (and two gaskets replaced because they had started to leak), together with Virginia's mandated annual inspection - passed.
Vibration lessened but continued and started to worsen. Within 3 days the engine stalled in traffic and THE NEXT DAY the "check engine" light came on. I went back to the same place. The ignition coil and spark plugs were replaced. Power returned, and no stalling or warning light, but the vibration persisted.
One mechanic baffled: "What do you expect with 101K mileage and 16 valves?" - But this came up too fast to be ordinary wear and tear. What should I do?
2.0L Zetec E engine.
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I drive a 2006 Ford Focus. Last night, when I turned on my car, a number of things happened. (I should add that it was very cold, if that makes a difference)
1) My dashlights no longer work. The warning lights work fine, and I have checked the dial to make sure they are turned up, but I can no longer see what speed I am going when it is dark.
2) My taillights no longer work. One of the bulbs had previously blown, but now, the only ones that work are the rear blinkers.
3) My left driver side headlight is no longer working.
4) My trunk randomly kept popping open as I was driving. It has stopped doing so, but I am not sure if the problem is gone for good.
The mechanic wants to charge me $100 / hr just to even check the problem and indicated the diagnostics may take several hours. Having just replaced two tires, that option is far beyond my means.
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My car makes a grinding/popping noise when driving that worsens when I go over bumps and that completely stops if I even touch the brakes. When I accelerate, the noise speeds up as well. I took it to a mechanic about three months ago and he said it was a loose bumper and that he secured it. After leaving, the noise got louder and happened more often. Sometimes the noise doesn't happen, while other times it does. My dad changed my front brake pads about a month ago so it can't be those. Is it possible that it is still my bumper making the noise? If so, I don't understand why it would stop when I brake.
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Still getting used to my 'new to me' 2011 Prius II. I am loving the car it's a joy to drive, very smooth and quiet.
When I pull the car out of the garage it's obvious when the ICE starts. But after that I never am aware of the starter being used at all.
Is it just road noise that prevents me from hearing it? Or is it like a manual transmission car that you restart by letting out the clutch once it's rolling?
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I am having with my 2000 Accent GL. It keeps dying while I'm driving it then will not restart. After sitting for awhile it will start but then after a short time dies again. The first thing I did was replace the fuel filter but that did not work. Did a diagnostic scan and it threw a code for the CPS sensor. Replaced THAT and it STILL did not fix it. I reset the computer but it didn't work. The scanner didn't pick up any other codes. Next I checked the relays and they all seem to be fine. Finally, I replaced the fuel filter but the problem did not go away.
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My 2010 Elantra stalls while driving, even on the highway, and then won't restart right away. It has been at the dealer for a week now, and they have determined that the ECU is the problem.
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I bought a used 2007 Santa Fe limited 3.3 last year. I'm currently at 98k miles. I replaced fuel Spenser's, added remote start and a curt hitch, did the head gasket service, did a maintenance to replace spark plugs and coolant.
Everything was ok ( although noticed with our single digit temps the engine was slow to start) then yesterday happened. Starting car in driveway and I got a check engine light. Tried restarting car and it stayed on. No problems. Drove about 15 miles and parked car. It sat for for three hours and then used it to go a few miles up the road ( engine light came on). No problems.
Had lunch, restarted car, light on, and Then oil can red light came on. Drove about 5 miles and while slowing down for a light I felt the power steering go, car stalled, and I couldn't restart. Never heard any whines or shrieks. Pushed car into a gas station and tow truck came. He tried to jump it ( it clicks when I tried to start it but it never turned over) and if his power supply was on and I tried to crank engine it made no sounds. Towed to a shop where mechanic tried same thing. Same result. They put car on rack and tried to manually crank engine. Couldn't budge it and told me engine seized. 4500 estimate to replace engine.
Took my own mechanic out to car ( night and freezing) and he did a few other checks and agreed that engine seized but thought it was weird I didn't hear the whine of the ball bearing getting shredded. Thinks a sensor blew, causing oil pump to fail, causing engine seize.
I'm now reading about multiple issues with crank shaft sensors and pulley separation and it seems like that is a possibility however I can't get my car to turn over at all. Granted it is freezing out here.
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2012 Ford Focus, 115 000 miles. Starting issues. A few weeks ago I would turn the key in the ignition and there would be nothing for about 3 or 4 seconds and then it would turn over. Now it does not turn over at all sometimes. Sometimes it starts right up and other times it does not. The lights on the dashboard still come on but it just does not turn over. Loose connection somewhere? Starter relay? Battery?
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Recently when I drive for a while in traffic (stop and go) and then park my car for a quick errand and try to restart it won't start. This has only happened on extremely hot days ( over 90 degrees). I replaced the battery after the first time which was in April. It is now June and its happened 2 times in 2 weeks again. I have been able to start it after letting it sit for over an hour or with a jump. I'm getting nervous to run errands and the weather isn't getting any cooler.
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