Ford - Focus :: Bucking At Low RPM When In Gear - Clutch Wearing Out?
Jul 18, 2012
I have a stick shift 2003 Ford Focus with close to 95k miles. Last week, the car started bucking at low RPM when it's in gear. It happens in all 5 gears, but less violent in the higher gears. To describe the bucking, imagine you're coming to a stop, and you forgot that you're still in fifth. That's kinda what it's like - as if it's ready to stall, but catches itself.
Since this doesn't happen when I'm in neutral or at higher RPMs, I'm guessing it's nothing to do with spark plugs or timing belts. Since it happens in ALL of the gears, I'm guessing it's not a gear going bad. My deductions leave me with the clutch.
I've had this car for a while, but I hadn't grown up with manual transmissions, so I don't know a ton about them. Also, I know that the clutch is more of an assembly, so I'm wondering what PART of the clutch may be going bad.
BTW, I'm also keeping in mind that the clutch may not be the issue at all, so fire away!
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Honda Accord 2004 EX V6 150,000 Miles. The car is paid off, I'm the original owner and it has no problems, apart from it seems like the clutch is beginning to wear down. Some times in drive when I step on the gas it spins up just a little and jerks forward. Is is worth getting the clutch repaired?
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This morning I tried to put my car into reverse and I literally had to force it. It didn't grind or anything, no funny sounds that I have heard, just didn't want to go. It also felt like shifting was kind of "stiff" or tight... The car has 76K on it and I've never replaced the clutch, so it might just be due, but it kind of happened out of the blue. After the first incident of the reverse not cooperating, I didn't have any problems for the rest of the day, but shifting in general still kinda felt off... A coworker said that basically means I'll need a new clutch within a few weeks.
Is it just time for a new clutch? Or is there something I can do? And, so I don't get taken for everything, how to present this problem to my mechanic? I trust them, but I want to be as informed as possible when I go in to talk to them.
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So, I think that my clutch pedal return spring broke yesterday in my Focus 07 Hatchback when I was at a stop sign. I let out the clutch and felt and heard something like a small cable breaking. Now the clutch still operates fine, but it is softer than before. If it is indeed that little spring, can I still drive it around for a few days until I can get it to the dealer?
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I took my car in for a clutch install, everything was fine except the clutch slipping. I go to pick up my car and once the car warmed up it started bucking / limp mode while accelerating. Take it back to the mechanic and he thinks he didn't reset the throttle body. So he says that should be it and I pull away. Same thing. Leave it with him again and he replaces with "diag" coils and new plugs. Leave again, same thing. He tells me to get totally new coils and try that. I am thinking its a missed ground cable or messed up ECU or something. During all this not one code it thrown.
20th GTI 1.8T 6 speed, stock clutch, all stock
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My question is what could cause a wheel bearing and CV joint to fail immediately after a clutch replacement and a general inspection?So I brought my 2014 focus with under 50000 miles in due to the normal transmission issues with clutch chatter and hesitation. Also asked them to do a general inspection to come current on my warranty requirements and address a feeling of the car feeling lose into turns sometimes (I thought maybe it is just me getting used to going to summer tires from winter). So they rebuild the clutch and i finally get my car back four days later with a clean bill of health and them unable to recreate the lose sensation in the steering during a test drive.
So fast forward four five days and under 200 miles driven and I had a rapid failure of my front driver side wheel bearing and cv joint. It was fine the day before then after 20 miles of driving it felt like it was about to go. So this is everything I noticed about my car after I got it back:Transmission felt great. No chatter and fast to respond. When I would turn into a parking spot or pull out of one I would sometimes here a clunk (that had never happened before) Drove fine. It rained the day before the failure (not sure if that could contribute) but when I got on the road the next day the wheel went bad very very fast and the rubbing became so severe I limped to the nearest cellphone reception. A 79mile tow later I am back at the dealership who replaced that the wheel bearing and CV. (my car is actually back there right now because they left a bungee cord attached to the coil and it started to make the clicking rubbing noise so I called them to tow it).
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[URL] .... I reviewed the thread but my issues happened all throughout my drive back.
The car started to "buck" between 500-1000 rpm while in 1st gear. Randomly in 5-6th gear it did the same thing ( Car felt like it wanted to shut off in the middle of driving). I also smelled a horrible petrol scent when stopped at a red light. The car never totally died, but it felt like it wanted to the whole time.
What could be the issues? Coil Packs? Bad Gas? Belts? Battery?
My car just had an oil change with amsoil and new vw oil filter. New spark plugs in the summer, fuel filter changed, and rear diff fluid changed.
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I have a 2005 Ford Focus Man Trans, and am having issues getting it into first gear and into reverse. This happens most often when the car is cold. I am kind of wondering what it may mean before I take it in to have the issue fixed. It has 65 thou miles on it and I would think that I don't need a new trans already?
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I've noticed on a few occasions that when asking for full throttle to merge on a highway, my car bucks while in 3rd gear (automatic) as the rpms climb above 5k or so. It's almost as if the car is choking on too much air (I do have the SRI) because backing off the throttle slightly immediately stops the bucking. The car does not buck in 2nd gear at the redline. What would cause it?
I'm thinking maybe the spark plug wires are arching or there is a slight crack in one of the coil packs that only manifests under full throttle. Or perhaps the engine really is getting more air than it can handle. I'm at 46k, no mechanical problems, never a check engine light, and the car operates smoothly under all other circumstances. The spark plugs were replaced with NGK platinums at 30k.
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My 02 Ford Focus makes a racket in 5th gear. The engine sounds like it's ready for takeoff. The other gears are quiet but when I pick up speed, the noise is a steady & relentless hum.
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I have a problem with my 2003 Ford Focus ZTS. It has a 2.0L ZETEC engine and is automatic. I recently replaced the Starter, Alternator, and battery cable because the car was having some current issues. All parts are brand new, non-refurbished. The car cranks fine but is now sputtering. When I drive it, it seems like it has a hard time switching out of first gear and and will hit 3-3500 RPM before the gear shifts.
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1996 Mazda Protege, 133224 miles, mostly city driving, automatic transmission
This weekend the car started bucking, problems shifting into gear, chugging, slight odor of oil, very slow moving. This morning (in my pf's) I ran the Scan OBDII and there were no error messages. I checked fluids and they were fine.
Possible problems? I am at a decision point, get rid of the car (needs tires, front brakes and it burns a bit of oil each month (1-2 cups) or fix it.
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I've got a 07 accent with 90k miles on it. It has recently started slipping some (revs high, while in gear, without accelerating, especially in 5th gear). It also can be physically hard to move the shifter into gear sometimes (with my hand).
So, does this mean I need a new clutch? Or are there other possibilities? Should I replace/fix anything with the clutch? Sounds like the flywheel should be resurfaced? Will it shift more smoothly after the fix?
Is this something a newb could do himself? I can change the oil, rotate tires. Outside of that I haven't done much. My toolset for now is fairly limited: two jackstands, a trolley jack, torque-wrench and ratchet sets.
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Could my brake issue be related to my transmission problem? Neither are constant. Brake problem= sometimes the brake pedal feels hard, like there's no power brakes (I drove a car once. ..looong time ago. .. that had no power brakes or steering) but it will kick in after a short distance. Transmission prob= seemingly unrelated, is a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. This has happened maybe a 1/2 dozen times, the first time and mostly when in heavy commute traffic and when going between 1st and 2nd gear because of the slow commute speed, but also at other times when not in lengthy slow commutes. When it doesn't shift, the odometer doesn't work (shows only dashes) and an engine light comes on (the sprocket/gear looking one). Usually the transmission will eventually shift and the light goes off.
I read that the brake problem might be a vacuum hose problem? Something about a booster? Is this dangerous? or is it like having a car w/ no power brakes? Going to have my transmission looked at this week. Read on another site about dropping valve seats on this year car. If there's a major transmission problem, I'm wondering if it's worth fixing? I changed, timing belt, water pump, front and rears brakes, tires. 143,000 miles.
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my 2000 focus se, 2.0L SPI, with 82k began to recently run rough at idle then progressed to stalling at longer lengths of idle. The condition starts once the engine warms after 2-5 minutes. I 1st tried gas treatment. I replaced the ignition coil as suggested in the other threads, but it has not improved the problem. I had the fuel pump recall-replaced 2 years ago. I would guess that a bad fuel pump would exhibit loss of power at all engine speeds? Before I proceed to replace plug wires and plugs.
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So I just put a new clutch in my 01 Mustang with the baby 3.8l engine and a 5 speed T5OD transmission. The car will shift through all gears fine when turned off, but when I start it in neutral and push the clutch in, it won't shift into any gear. I can start it in first gear though with the clutch pedal in and it moves forward VERY slowly. The trans has enough fluid, and I already pulled up on the pedal to self adjust. Not exactly sure what else could be wrong.
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This is on an 01 Mustang with the baby 3.8l and a T5OD tranny. I installed a new clutch and now when the car is on, it won't shift into any gear. But I can start the car in gear and let go of the clutch and it moves forward just fine. I took everything back apart and checked the clutch plate and it is in there correctly. The clutch fork is completely on the little pivot ball.
The throw out bearing is the same size and everything as the old one. I pulled up on the clutch pedal to self adjust. Still not going into gear when the car is on.
I have heard that I might have air in my clutch line. But this clutch is cable actuated, not hydraulic. I have no master cylinder. Like I said before, I already pulled up on the clutch to self adjust and still no luck.
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They are about my F250. It is a 92 with 186000 miles. I love this truck.
After a long trip, maybe 1.5 hours, the truck will shudder while I let out the clutch in first gear. This only occurs in first, and it doesn't happen after the truck sits for a bit, just after driving.
I have an opportunity for a good deal on a F150. It is a 2001 with 181,000 miles for $4000. Is it worth updating for the new technology even if there is the same old high mileage issue?
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I have a 2009 stick-shift 4WD ford ranger with a clutch that is sticky in 1st and reverse. Basically it requires alot of force to push it into 1st or reverse, but this problem isnt always there, and it the problem dosnt seem to pop up under any particular circumstances - e.g.: the weather, if the tuck has been driven recently etc. I paid $5000 for extended warranty when i bought this truck new, and the dealer repair shop tells me that they can't tell me if it is covered under warranty until they take it apart to see if the problem is a "wear item" .
If it's not covered under warranty then I am stuck with the $700 bill. Otherwise the truck runs great, and I have never had any work done under the extended warranty. The warranty runs out soon, and I am wondering whether to take a chance with a rebuild. My wife dosnt like to drive the truck with the clutch like that because she is afraid of getting stuck at a stoplight and being unable to engage the gear.
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I have a 2001 m5r2 ford f-150 standard transmission. i have replaced the slave cyl., the entire clutch assy., the master cyl. pilot bearing. the trans. will engage all five gears plus reverse while truck is off but will not engage a gear while running. i have bled and bled and bled and still will not engage.
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I have a '99 f150 singlecab xl sport 4.2 2wd 5spd with 139,xxx miles on her. Shes's a good truck, but second gear is shot, I can only get into it by double clutching, and that only sometimes works. I have a couple questions, the first one being what do yall think the problem is. To me and my friends it seems like the syncro mesh. Second, if it is something major, is it even worth saving the truck? I know she isn't worth a ton but I hate to go through the hassle of selling and buying a car.
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