Ford - Focus :: AC Light Will Came On, But No Air Comes Out Of Any Of Vents
Aug 17, 2011
My question is about the AC in my 2003 Ford Focus hatchback. On settings 1-3, the green AC light will come on, but no air comes out of any of the vents. On these settings, no air comes out at all whether or not the AC button is pressed. Air will come out of the vents on setting 4, but this causes the AC light to go out. I don't think it's a problem with the actual cooling, because if I leave the AC on in settings 1-3, and then turn the setting up to 4, for a brief time cold air will blow out of the vents before it turns into fan air. It's as if the cold air has been building up and gets released on setting 4. However, after doing this I think I could detect a slight burning smell. Is it possible there is a clog somewhere?
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I recently had my Focus in the shop for some body work due to hail damage. After I got the car back, the air vents on the dashboard and the defogger would not blow air. Only the lower vents would blow air, regardless of which setting I had the vent selector on. (Even if I had the selector to defogger or dashboard vents only, the vents by my feet blew out air). The guy who runs the body shop said that wouldn't be related to anything they did on the car. What might be causing this? It's no longer under warranty, so I want to know if there's an easy at-home fix. (Also, when I got the car back, the dashboard clock and the preset radio stations had been reset. Don't know if this might be related to the problem with the vents).
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2007 Ford Focus - 70,000 miles
The ABS light went on two weeks after we had the brakes done at Ford. We have not yet had the chance to return there, and I am wondering if the recent brake job played a role in the ABS light issue... there is a youtube video claiming that debris from a brake job could dirty the "tone wheel/ring" and make it difficult for the ABS sensor to read the wheel. True or not?... And is this something I have a chance of dealing with myself?... I prefer to work on vintage cars that have no high tech add-ons... but for the time being, this is the car we have ...
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I have a 2003 ford focus wagon, automatic transmission, 140,000 miles. The battery light has been going on and off for 5 months, and the car has shut down several times. I've had the following replaced/repaired:
Spark plugs replaced. Two days later, car died.
Battery replaced. Two days later car died.
Alternator replaced. 4 days later car died on a vacation trip. Before it died, the battery light came on when I had to accelerate, and also when going down hills. Frequency increased and power shut off several times. If I waited 10-15 minutes, it would start up again. Finally would not start up - completely dead. Computer diagnostics first said the alternator was bad. Then, while still hooked up to computer, the bad alternator indicator disappeared and the alternator reported no problems. Technician ran the car for a few hours every day for a week and took it for test drives but light never came on.
When I got back from vacation, the new alternator was replaced with a ford alternator - the theory was that some 2003 ford focus computer chips have trouble recognizing alternators that aren't ford's.
All was good for about 4 months. Then battery light started going on and off again - sometimes 20-30 times in 40 minutes, sometimes only 5-6 times in that time span. Computer diagnostics found nothing - light never came on.
Car was vibrating. Had engine mounts replaced 4 days ago, hoping the electrical problem was caused by something vibrating against something else that connected to the alternator, and if the vibrations stopped, the battery light would stay off. First 35 miles - no battery light! Then it started coming on again, but not as much as before the engine mounts were replaced.
Battery light seems to only come on now:
1) Every time I start up and begin driving and I think the car shifts to higher gears;
2) whenever I go up hills - it has also come on a couple of times when going down a hill (just like before, when the alternator was replaced);
3) when I accelerate beyond 55 mpg.
I can get the light to go off if
1) I floor the gas pedal;
2) I pump the brakes;
3) I put the car in park.
Mechanics are stumped. I love my car, but every time I drive it now, I worry the entire time about the battery light and about the power shutting off.
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On two occasions, roughly 10 days apart, my 2001 Ford Focus Automatic (214,000 miles), experienced a notable jolt, which was accompanied by the 'automatic transaxle' light illuminating, along with the car seeming to slip into neutral. The light stayed on for maybe 1 to 3 seconds, after which the car returned to normal. So what gives?
Both times this happened was on the freeway cruising at 60 mph. The first time was when I went over a large bump, but the second time I was just at a constant speed with no bump.
The car has been to my mechanic today who has told me that there are no codes in the computer, and he is unable to find anything that may have caused this. In every other respect the car runs great, shifts smoothly. No problems.
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My 2004 Focus passed its emissions test in Maryland in the late fall last year. Shortly thereafter, the check engine light came on. My mechanic put it on the computer and said it needed a new catalytic converter. It only had 86,000 miles on it. I watched and waited for a few months and had the fuel filter changed during a routine oil change. A couple of days after the fuel filter was replaced the check engine light went off and stayed off for 4 months, but it came back on a couple of days ago. I have been watching the mileage carefully and it has been steady at about 26 MPG for years.
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I have a a 2005 Focus, 199,000 miles. The battery light has been come on randomly. It doesn't seen to be related to any other event in the car. Things I've done to diagnose it...
I cleaned the battery cable connections before I started any diagnostics.
I have two code reader and no codes are being thrown.
I connected a multimeter to the battery while the car was idling in the driveway.
I got 13.8-14.1 volts as the car sat and ran. When the light came on no change on the meter.
I have a Scan Gauge that allows me to watch the voltage in real time. Four days and no change when the light came on. ~13.8-14.1 at idle and ~14.1-14.4 underway.
I have the Car Chip. I plugged it in drove for about 10 runs and the voltage trace was pretty flat on all runs, battery light on or off.
The only thing that is consistent is if the light is on and I rev the engine it goes out BUT they rpm when the light goes is inconsistent.
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My daughter called me and said her "battery light" came on. I didn't even know there were battery lights. The car still starts and runs fine. What could cause the "battery light" to come on?
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I have a 2004 Ford Focus. I had the battery replaced in May. Two months ago, the battery light came on for 10 minutes than went off. A week later the dash lights dimmed and then rebrightened. Talking with people they thought the alternator was the issue. I had it replaced three weeks ago. I got it back from the mechanic and it worked for two days.
On day 3 it would click and the dash lights would flash but it would not crank. Mechanic jumped it and brought it to the shop and found nothing. Two days later the same problem. Took to another mechanic and they found the radio was draining power so they unplugged the fuse. Again, it worked for two days, then the same problem. They have had it for a week and have no clue what is wrong.
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Recently my 2007 Ford Focus had its service engine light come up. In addition, a couple times the overdrive light has flashed orange, during which time the overdrive is not engaging for the car. Everything else with the car seems normal, just no overdrive. I imagine the problem is electronic, what might be at fault?
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I had the clock spring replaced on my 2007 Ford Focus replaced at the dealership exactly 1 month ago because the airbag light kept going on and off. I paid about $200 for that repair. Yesterday when I was driving home (after being on the highway for about 20 miles) everything on the dash went dead except for the ABS light. When I tried to turn the radio back on, it said "Low Battery." I was able to make it to the dealership, but as soon as I turned off the engine, it was completely dead. When I turned the key, a couple of lights came on but it wouldn't even turn over. Is is possible that the mechanic didn't hook the battery up correctly after replacing the clock spring? Should I expect the dealership to pick up the cost for whatever needs replacing now? Or is this just really bad luck?
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A few weeks ago the dash panel brake light would light up when I made right turns. After the car finished turning and went straight forward the light would stay on for 2 or 3 seconds, then flicker and finally go off. This would happen when my foot was not touching the brake pedal. Now the brake light comes on occasionally when the car is going straight forward and sometimes when I apply the brakes. I do not see any signs of bake fluid leakage. The brakes are working properly and show no signs of diminished effectiveness. What could be the problem? 2000 Ford Focus Se DOHC.....
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2004 Ford Focus, 2 Liter Zetec engine.0. Situation: Car initially running well but want to improve mileage, so I installed premium plugs.1. Ran roughly on test run, so headed home. Check Engine light came on before fully warmed up.2. Found and corrected loose plug wire.3. Engine now purrs like a kitten, but Check Engine light stays on.
What should I do now?
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My cars fuel system seems to have a problem, the check engine light came on, the loose fuel cap light has stayed on (caps been replaced) light continues. It revs high like going to 4 on the tach when I'm only going 35 so I try to accelerate slowly, when passing that's a problem, I suspect it's in the vacuum system. One mechanic told me it's nothing another, said he'd have to do a smoke test to discover the problem. It leaks gas if I only go a click over full, and the gas mileage isn't even the 25 mpg? Just wondering what it might be?
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Recently the temp sensor on my car goes all the way to H and then the light comes on saying I need coolant. It only seems to happen when I have the heat and/or defrost on -- if I turn the heat off the temp goes back to normal within a minute or so. (no problem using rear defrost)
First time it happened I pulled over, checked coolant level and added a little. The next time it happened I looked under the hood the next morning and coolant level was just fine.
Happens more often when I'm driving around town than on highway. Usually within about 5 minutes of driving in the morning the engine temp is all the way to H.
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Car wont start and antitheft light flashes 3 minutes later light goes off car starts.
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Ok I just bought a used 2003 Ford Focus from a dealership which I am financing and after the second day driving the check engine light came on. Once I saw that I took it back to the dealer and he told me the sensor was very sensitive and because I didn't close the gas tank tightly the light came on. I didn't feel satisfied with this answer so I took the car for a diagnostic. They informed me that the car had a gasket leak. I then took the car back to the dealership and told them what I had been informed and the mechanic told me that it wasn't a big deal, nothing for me to worry about. Now I don't know much about cars and I have been doing a little research of my own and a gasket leak seems to be a big problem.
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I have a 2004 Ford Focus that has always run like a champ; (71,000) miles. Two years ago it started having some really strange "issues." The car's dash light for the ABS would start to flash off and on, accompanied by a clicking sound whenever it flashed. The brakes are always fine. Next, though, the car starts kicking and "bucking" as though it wanted to die. Whenever I pulled off the road, turned off the car and turned it back on, everything was fine. This went on for weeks but it was sporadic in nature; and naturally it didn't do anything for my mechanic even when I left it there.
I finally took it to the Ford dealer who charged me $800 for a new alternator belt, but it came with no guarantee - they said they frankly didn't know whether it would work or not. Turns out it did, for a couple of years; but it has just now started doing it again. I can find nothing that I'm doing or not doing determines whether this happens or not. Now I've got the same scarey problem all over again, and every couple of years for a new alternator belt, I might as well give it up and sell. I'm getting so tired of hearing "I don't know what's wrong". Oh, by the way, the "check engine" light never goes on.
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I have a 2001 Ford Focus ZX3 (2D Hatchback) that has been randomly stalling since we bought it. There is no engine light, the dealership couldn't get it to stall and just gave it back. Another garage got it to stall and thought it might be the "idle-oxygen sensor" (not sure if I'm remembering the name correctly), but that didn't stop it from stalling either.
My wife is ready to dump it, but even spending a couple thousand a year on repairs is less than the grand total of a year's payments on a new car, insurance, etc. But it would be nice to fix it.
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my 2000 focus se, 2.0L SPI, with 82k began to recently run rough at idle then progressed to stalling at longer lengths of idle. The condition starts once the engine warms after 2-5 minutes. I 1st tried gas treatment. I replaced the ignition coil as suggested in the other threads, but it has not improved the problem. I had the fuel pump recall-replaced 2 years ago. I would guess that a bad fuel pump would exhibit loss of power at all engine speeds? Before I proceed to replace plug wires and plugs.
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This past Saturday afternoon I'm out driving on the highway when the temperature gauge on dash maxes-out and the overheat warning light comes on. I get off at the next exit and stop at the nearest repair shop. (Which happened to be not too far from the exit.) During these moments of driving the car is not behaving as if it were overheating. No steam/vapor coming from the engine, it's performing okay, A/C runs cold, running heater on full-blast seems to do nothing to ease the gauge and the temperature in the engine bay feels about "normal."
So, since this is a Saturday at almost 5PM most of the repair shops are closing (it's a known fact cars don't break down past 5 o'clock on Saturdays.) So they say the'll look at it on Sunday.
I get a call on Sunday and I'm told that as near as they can tell the car is not overheating, the overheat light or check-engine lights weren't coming on and the car is behaving normally. The thermostat is "gunked up" and they recommend new coolant or a coolant flush." I just opt for new coolant, forgoing the flush, as I didn't really have the funds for it, an additional $100 or so. They say there are no codes in the system.
They do it and end up having to keep the car overnight so that the... air bubbles will work out of it? (?!)
I pick it up this past Monday evening and on the drive home the temp-gauge does as it was doing when this process began. It started creeping "hotter and hotter" meanwhile the car is behaving otherwise fine. (No overheat light this time.) Get home, open the hood, no vapor, no excess heat. Nothing.
They spend quite a bit of time running it, hooking it up to a diagnostic machine, etc. While the temp-gauge is sort of "floating around" between normal and "hot" it doesn't reach an "overheat" and the diagnostic machine registers normal temperatures. This time they find a code in the system, though the check-engine light has never come on. They recommend, again, the coolant flush so I go ahead and do it (they give me a discount), and drive the car home, again the temp-gauge "floats" around the dial, never quite getting to "overheating."
I drive to work just fine Thursday (today) morning with no real trouble with the gauge. (Though, FWIW, I had to tap on the dash to get the dash-light on that side of the console to come on.) This brings us to Thursday afternoon.
I make a couple of errands and as I'm stopped at a pharmacy drive-thru the temp-gauge is "floating." Driving home on the highway it reaches "overheating", turning the light on (again, car is not behaving in an overheating manner. A/C still cold, running heat doesn't ease gauge, no vapor from engine compartment.) When I pull in my parking spot the A/C and the car starts to "stall" some and NOW the check-engine light comes on. I shut the car off and I see vapors coming from under the hood.
I open the hood and the engine is covered in the anti-freeze/coolant and the coolant reservoir is empty. The various hoses and such that are clipped on to parts of the front engine cowling are loose (the plastic screw/"snaps" came out of their holes) and pushing on the upper-radiator some and it seems awfully loose. (Like the upper mounts aren't properly seated or something.)
Call the shop ask them what they are doing to me, they say they'll have another look at it and pay for the tow to get the car back to their shop. Awaiting word on what is going on, likely sometime tomorrow.
All of this strikes me as very, very odd and all seems to pile up quickly from taking it to this shop. With a replaced thermostat and flushed coolant I have a hard time understanding how the engine could genuinely overheat. All of the hoses and such seemed fine, and running the engine for a while at the shop the other day generated no problems to the techs working on the car. Yet, they're the only ones who have messed with it. Assumptions on their part Tuesday afternoon were something to do with the water pump (replaced at 100,000 miles with timing belt. Car is now at 145,000 miles.) Or a faulty temperature sensor (or what passes for it on the car) sending false readings to the gauge.
Car is a 2000 Ford Focus ZTS with a 4-Cyl, 16V, 2.0 Liter engine. It has 145,000 miles on it, timing belt and water-pump were replaced at 100,000 miles have had regular oil-changes on (more or less) every 5,000 miles or so. I will admit to not getting coolant changes/flushes as often as one should but the car never really had an overheating issues or problems starting in the winter.
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