Ford - Focus :: 2013 Not Making Any Noise When Key In Ignition To Start (2 Months In Snow)
Apr 17, 2015
So the car was unused and sitting in snow for about 2 months. Now the car will not start, and actually does not make any noise when key is turned. No lights inside the car turn on. No automatic or electronic buttons work at all. Is this a totally dead battery or starter (since it makes no noise with key in ignition) or something else (e.g. electrical)? I tried to jump start the car which did nothing (but honestly not sure if it was done for a good enough amount of time... about 5 minutes).
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My wife recently purchase a 2013 Focus SE 5 door and a few times now the ignition key "sticks" in the switch and will not release. She has to turn it back on and off a couple times to get it to release.
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I have a 2001 Ford Focus, lately on occasion, not all the time when I turn the key nothing happens, the car doesn't start. I then turn the key back and forth a few time and turn the wheel a few times and then it start and runs fine and I may not have this happen again for a few weeks or it may happen the next day.
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2009 Ford Focus. Six months ago got in car returning from 60 mile trip. Turned ignition key heard fuel pump hum but no juice to ignition. (Not anti-theft lockout--security light behaved normally.) Would not take jump. Ford Roadside assistance tried everything else possible. Nothing. Towed to nearest Ford dealer. On arrival, car started immediately. Took to local Ford dealer who found absolutely no problems but ran TSB 10-21-8 reprogram PCM--test OK. Had no further problems with car until a week-and-a-half ago--same thing happened. Car towed to dealer again. Started immediately at dealer! Picked up from dealer, that night same thing happened. Did not phone roadside assistance--after 45 minutes car inexplicably started. That was a week ago. No problems since then. Feeling a little panicky w/car that may fail at any time--winter coming.
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Several weeks ago my car started making a noise that sounded like a motorcycle was coming up behind me. The noise started in at 65 mph and now, weeks later, starts in at around 35 mph. I have had the muffler checked and the CV joints and everything checks out okay. The noise does not change if the car is turning left or right. The noise is also, curiously, no louder with the windows open or closed.
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It's a 1999 Toyota Celica GT 2.2L, about 190000 miles and I just replaced the transmission not too long ago. Here's what happened, I was sitting a light, the light turned green, and I pushed the gas and the car stalled. I put it in park, tried to turn it on, and it won't start, but is still turning over, making an awful whining noise. Not the transmission. Battery is good, windows, stereo, etc still work. Terminals are good. Everything is still connected, I just changed my oil about 1000 miles ago, still has oil. Has transmission fluid, actually has all it's fluids, no leaks. No check engine light or any other lights. She did not overheat, if anything was colder than usual, No water in my motor, everything LOOKS good, and I take good care of my car, so I'm really baffled. I just spent my savings on the transmission, I'm not a mechanic, I'm just learning to do things on my own.
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I just purchased a 2013 Ford Focus hatchback SE Monday night. Tuesday morning I came out of the house to get in my car, I unlocked the car, and opened the door. Before I even got into the car I heard a "scratch scratch scratch whirr whirr" coming from the engine. The dealer did not show me where the hood latch was so by the time I figured out how to open the hood the noise had stopped (within a minute of when it started.) Driving that day I did not notice any more noise, nor any issues with the engine.
Wednesday morning (today) I came out to get in my car, and when I opened the door I heard the same nose coming from under the hood. I got the hood open and looked in with a flashlight while the nose was still going. The noise was coming from the right hand side of the engine block, but I did not see anything actually moving to cause the scratching and whirring noise.
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Daughter has 2012 focus, when starts up has loud squealing noise , then short time it quits until start up again. someone told her needed pulley bearings needed greased? if this is true how difficult is this to do and what is it?
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I have a problem with turning my key. It will not turn at all. I have taken the upper and lower part of the cover off to expose the switch and removed one screw from the ignition housing, but the internal part of the ignition switch will not come out. How do I completely remove this ignition switch. I have already removed the negative battery cable. It seems this is a continual problem with focuses. Oh, do I need a releasing tool to release the ignition switch.
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I have a 2009 Ford Focus. The ignition key can not enter the steering column cylinders unless the key is jiggled with a far amount of pushing. I took the car to the dealership in the late Fall and they replaced the ignition cylinder. This worked fine until Spring when the outside temperature got above 75 F.
I have tried using the extra key and it also will not be permitted to enter the cylinder except with a great amount of key jiggling. This problem only occurs when it is above 75 F, it is not a problem for 6 months of the year; but, I am concerned that sometime I won't be able to get the car started.
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2005 Ford Focus : About 10 months ago noticed my battery light was faintly visible with car off and key out of ignition. It was faint and erratically pulsing, it also did this when car was running. This issue would last a week or so, then go away for a while...then come back.
Then it spread to include the ABS light too, and eventually became permanent. But six weeks ago, after driving from CA to WI, it went away...for a few weeks, but came back.
A few days ago I went to my car, and it spread to include the checkfuel cap, oil, and door ajar lights. Also a loud beep occurs at erratic intervals. The lights all flash and pulse individually. Most are faint, but the oil light and door ajar light seem full strength. When I turn the key to second position, all the lights light up full strength and solid, like they're supposed to (for the testing phase).
Then once car is on, they go back to flickering faintly...but the loud beep goes away. I'm concerned about the beeping running down the battery with car off-so I pulled out fuse #36, which is for "a/c swith, instrument cluster". This stops the beeping and flickering, cuz the lights no longer have power to them.
The battery voltage is 12.3 volts, and while running it's a steady 14.35 volts.
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03 focus SE Wagon, Automatic Tran, has a bit of a problem. Whenever it gets driven through a puddle (big, small, paddling pool, etc.) it will make this high pitch squealing noise, and then when it gets shut off after driving through said puddle, will have trouble starting. (It will turn over, catch, run for .2 seconds & then the engine will cut out, but all the electronics will work) THEN! if you can get it started, it needs to be reeved constantly or it will stall when it idles. Lastly, if the conditions are ridiculously horrible, & you need to go some place, you have to '2 foot drive' the little beauty to whereever you're going. Now, she's been in to see the Ford mechanics and has 'stumped' them.
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2013 Sonata Limited. I requested that a remote starter be added to a vehicle with keyless ignition. They mentioned that it can't be done, as I would need an extra keyfob that would sit inside the car at all times, and that if I leave the car unlocked, anyone could get in, start it, and drive off with it. That seemed ridiculous to me, so I called another dealer to ask and got essentially the same answer, saying it was not available yet for keyless ignitions.
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I recently parked my f-350 dually on a 15degree slope during a rainy period about 2 months ago. I went in recently to start it and it would'nt start. I replaced the two batteries in my attempt. I turn on the key in the on position, wait for the "Wait for Start" light to turn off, then it cranks really fast , then slows down and it won't start. Tried to take off the fuel filter but is there a special tool to take the cover off. It started real fine prior to this. Also I put in 5 gallons of diesel .
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We have a 2013 Hyundai Accent under 57,000 miles and is been making a rattling noise for a little while now. A few times we mention to the dealer when we had the oil change that we heard a noise and it was driving us crazy, for a while they couldn't hear it. We took our car to an independent mechanic and they heard the noise right away, did an oil change and told us to take it back to the dealer because it could be the engine.
We did and they don't know where the noise is coming from, they order some parts and told us that our extended warranty could be void because we didn't use their oil. Is this even legal? They gave us a paper that says since 2012 not to use another oil that is not from Hyundai, they never mention that before and we feel we been taken advantage.
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I have a 2013 Elantra GLS, with Push Start ignition.
Whenever I get out of my car for a few minutes, I keep the engine running, so what I do is, I keep the Smart Key inside the car, and remove the physical key trying to lock the doors from outside (I do this to keep the car cool from inside because the heat in my country is scorching!)...what I found recently is that as I do this, only the driver door gets locked, and all the other doors are still unlocked...I don't know if this is a fault or standard....
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I have a 2006 Focus ZX4 with 158k miles. A couple of days ago, I turned on the headlights after starting the engine and had no low beam on the driver's side. Both high beams work. Thinking the filament had gone, I replaced both bulbs with new ones. After several frustrating minutes, I realized the headlights only come on with the ignition switch in the 'run' position. I still have no low beam on the driver's side. I checked the fuse, which appeared to be good, and replaced it anyway.
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A couple of times in the past few months I've been listening to music and a shrill sound has come through the system. It doesn't stop and I have to turn if off and back on to get it to go away. This has happened with both Sirius and my iPod. Yesterday the song was showing in the display but no sound was coming out. The volume didn't work. I had to stop/restart the car and it came on.
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I have a 2013 Prius v Three (lowercase v for Prius v not an uppercase and Three not III as Roman numerals were used for the 2010 Prius) model. Around 5k miles into owning my Prius, the brakes make a strange wailing noise in the cold. It doesn't last long and only occurs when it's really cold. Does this mean I'm going to have brake problems in the future? I'm going to insist that the dealership keeps my car overnight and test it early in the morning. A new car shouldn't be doing this!
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I have a 2013 golf r and I usually shift gear at 3 rpm when driving normal but for some reason it doesn't feel right, I can hear the clutch making a weird noise whenever changing gear at a low rpm, it feels so much smoother when shifting above 4 rpm but I dont always wanna punch it so hard especially when there's always traffic from where I live. Any advice on a smoother shift at a low rpm.
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My Tiguan is 2013 with 3k miles on it. There is a rattling sort of noise in the 2-3k RPM range which I think is turbo related. It is much louder when cold and quieter when warmed up. Is that normal turbo noise in the Tiguan? If so, why does it minimize when warm? And why does it not continue above 3k RPM? My Audi A4 with similar 2.0 Turbo does not make this noise.
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