Garage tells me tranny is working well. The problem seems to be worse when engine is cold. When pulling away from a stop, sounds like a toaster is being shaken under the hood with a loss of power...leaving 2nd into 3rd. Are there any other engine parts i should be testing?
View 2 RepliesMy 2007 Ford Focus broke down today. From what I can see and find online with my limited knowledge, it looks like the serpentine belt broke. Would this cause loss of power steering, rise in oil temperature and my check battery light to come on?
View 11 RepliesA couple months back I blew an EGR cooler. My mechanic replaced it and oil cooler, when I got the truck back it was using coolant and on cold days below 35 degrees it wont start without a little shot of ether. I took it back and mechanic found a pinched o ring.T he coolant problem is ok but cold starts not. Now today truck was running fine then as I was pulling out of a stop sign I couldnt get over 40 mph, I pulled over and then tried to go but no throttle response,then died and wouldn't restart .I have no way of scanning, no dash lights came on. I am wondering if this is related another o ring or gasket,hpop ,fuel problem??? just replaced all the injectors and ficm a little over a year ago.where should I start?
View 14 Replies'01 Silverado with the 4.8, sitting at 160k right now. I'm starting to notice a loss of power in the truck, when pulling out and accelerating it doesn't put you back in the seat like it used to and when going up a hill you have to force a downshift to not lose 15-20mph... it just seems like I'm pulling an invisible trailer back there. The fuel pump is about 1 year old, fuel filter less than 3 months, plugs and wires are about a year and a half old, PCV valve about 6 months old, fuel pressure regulator about a year old..
View 3 RepliesOK, so this is a 2012 ML350 Blue-tech with around 31,000 miles on it. Lately when it is warm (either by driving for 30 minutes or more, or by outside temperature of 80 plus), it has been making the strangest front end groaning noise when coming to a stop and when pulling away. It sounds like the front end suspension is "groaning". It doesn't have to be a hard stop, gentle will do just fine. The car comes to a halt, the front end dips slightly - "groooaaan" (perhaps more on the rebound than the initial dip). You start up again, the front end unloads, and "groan".
Very disconcerting on a car as smart as this. Tom and Ray know this car - this is the one with the "smart radio" (switches channels at voice command…) The dealer is stumped. They have the car for the third time now and even though both a mechanic and the shop foreman have been shown the problem (taken for a test drive ), they have been unable to come up with either a diagnosis or a fix. They replaced the front sway bar links once to no avail.
Friday morning my brakes went out on me. I was pulling out of a parking space and my car was puttering (as if it was going to turn off) then I was pulling out of the parking lot, but when I stepped on the brake pedal, it wouldn't go down! So i put it in reverse ( i was going about 5mph)and circled around and just put in park and turned it off. I didn't even think to use the Ebrake. My son was in the back seat so I just tried to stop it automatically.I've been reading that doing that might have ruined my transmission.
It's a 2001 ford focus SE....
I have an 06 crew short bed 4x4 238k miles ... It just started out of nowhere pulling from side to side. I got home and as i made the turn onto my street I felt the whole front end shift as I was turning almost like a knot in the steering i popped my head under and saw a greasy gear box everything else looks ok.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2012 F-250 6.7L w/8K miles. I have been struggling with this issue for 6 mo. The engine feels like its missing at low RPM. I would equate it to the feeling of a bad coil pack in a gas engine. The boost indicator drops to 0 for a split second then recovers. The dealer says they can't find the issue but went ahead and replaced the turbo. After the turbo replacement It got worse. This is an intermittent problem with no codes.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2007 Ford Fusion 4.0L AWD. One day I went to pass a slower car and accelerated rapidly, but the car responded with loss of power and shook to a stop and would not re fire. I took it to the dealership and they said two cylinders were not firing and a fuse was blown. I looked on the internet and some people said their coils go bad or plug wires. I asked the dealership if that was the cause and they said absolutely not, but it's the ECM. They replaced the ECM and 2 days later my CEL came on and I took it back to the dealership and they told me my catalytic converter was bad and I could drive it until I had the money to replace it. Then a couple days go by and I was passing a tractor on the highway, I slowed down to 45 mph to make the pass and as I began to accelerated I felt a thunk, then about a mile later it started cutting out and shaking. This time it would re fire but idle rough. I tried on/off 3 or 4 times then it idled o.k. I then took it back to the dealership and this time they said it's all 6 coils.
View 7 RepliesSo my 1987 Econoline Van was running fine until recently we noticed loss of power going up the slightest of hills and it will only hit 55 max with gas to the floor. Its shooting out black smoke and also dying when we stop. We are getting very poor fuel economy as well.
We got a tuneup, oil change, new air filter, etc. We also had a few electrical issues due to a short we thought we had fixed completely... So I'm wondering if it could be the timing? Cause it'll idle low, then high, then bog down and lose power...
Also was thinking maybe bad fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump....but how would I check this? And since we did experience a short, could we have blown a sensor too?
I'm trying to fix a transmission problem with my work truck. It's a company owned, 2011 f150 super cab, 2wd, 5.0 and 6 speed auto. It currently has 225K miles. The problem is very random occurring 2-3 times per week, usually happens on start up, and goes away after a hand full of engine restarts. It has happened twice on the freeway, the transmission releases and a complete loss of power and coasts to a stop. At the same time, the speedometer goes to zero regardless of vehicle speed. Normally, when it happens, the speedometer does not read, all the mpg, miles to E, and related meters show bars "-----". The vehicle starts and takes off ok, but when it tries to shift, it just releases and the truck coasts to a stop. It will repeat this for a while.
After several restarts, the truck goes back to normal. This has happened a couple dozen times now. The wrench and check engine light came on during the very first instance, but the auto shop said there were no trouble codes stored. They kept it for a week, and said it never reoccurred. I have a lousy video that shows, when this happens, the trans starts in 2nd, jumps to 5th, then 2nd, then 5th. I am past due for a new work truck and this one is on its way out, but has to last another couple of months! This truck has otherwise been very problem free and well maintained. I'm actually thinking of trying to pick it up cheap, if the repair is not too bad.
I took delivery of my 2012 FX4 Eco in January and about a month or so later I began experiencing a loss of power and the check engine light would come on then go off again. This happened the first time in Houston traffic one day so I was pretty concerned needless to say but then it cleared itself shortly thereafter. However, heading back home it occurred again on the highway while I was trying to pass and she just didn't have the power. I took it to a Houston dealer late in the afternoon before I left but no codes were found and when I got it back to my local dealer it was determined the left side catalytic converter was bad and it was subsequently replaced. Well, it happened again and it's back in the shop while I am offshore so they have plenty of time to take care of it.
View 2 RepliesI have a new to me 2012 R... I have a loss of power or almost like a traction control cut in on right and left turns from a stop. I cannot find anything in my searches. But I am not totally sure what to search on. It is not on rolling turns just from a stop. All tire pressures are consistent. No ice or water.
View 24 RepliesAfter 3rd consecutive stop, my focus will not stay running It turns over but shuts off promptly. After one hour it starts again without a problem. It does this only in the summer, but it has never overheated,and it has never left a code. I replaced the following Battery, alternator, fuel pump,fuel pump relay, themostat and housing, crank and cam sensor, oxygen sensor. What could the problem be?
View 5 Replies I am a new owner of 2012 VW Tiguan basic model. I noticed that AWD was replaced by 4Motion was told it is AWD in VW. I drove two AWD (Outlook and Edge) before but they are quite different from I have now with this Tiguan. When driving less than 50 mph, it is perfect and normal. I fell no difference from I had with previous AWAD. However, when speed exceeds 60 mph, I can feel the "active driving" control kick in to intervene my powertrain. If you sit entirely on your seat, you can feel the car body try to swing a twist occasionally, it come and go and let me feel the car is running unstable. I actually have an advanced degree in ME and have been working on auto industries for years. But this is strange to me. I have some theory below:
1) something wrong with 4motion, it activates too fast or violently to cause tail twist (it is like you brake one rear wheel as tag and go style, so that your car still go but your tail swing a little bit)
2) unbalanced rear differential (due to dirty debris or grease?) such that one wheel has more resistant drag than the other? As 4Motion activated thru multi-disk clutch, the abrupt force cause two wheel rotate at slight different speed to swing the rear body? BTW, are these multi-disc controlled by on-off type or PWM? and at what speed, it activate? My previous AWD seem to be passive type with purely hydraulic to pass torque.
3) miss-calibration on the 4motion activation map? is there a way to smooth the clutch locking mechanism by sequential locking or increase the locking period? VW AD said about timely 4 wheel drive mechanical system. I would like to what timely means in this incidence?
4) Either front wheel aligned such as not enough toe-in or toe-out? I just have the car for one week. I plan to bring it back to check for remedy. Or 4 wheel miss aligned? but it is hard to explain why the car run normal under 50 mph?
My car is 2012 VW Tiguan with 40000 miles, turbo, basic trim and no navigation. Not even a compass? It does have a nice white car body to show if the door is open.
That's the best way I can describe part my latest problem. If I'm stopped at a light, a lot of the time it almost feels like it wants to stall when I first pull out. Then, it seems like it is shifting funny at certain speeds like the transmission can't decide what gear it wants to be in. Tends to do that about mid acceleration (don't have an rpm gauge to look at). At idle it seems to run fine. BTW, engine also runs rough with the ac on.
View 12 RepliesWhen I first start out driving the car, and come to a stop, in drive, the car begins to run rough. I can hear and feel the vibration, it's very noticeable. I put it in neutral and it stops. As I load the engine with AC or use the electric windows it seems to gets worse. Then after driving for about 5-7 miles, it quits. Primarily in cold weather, since it started 4 months ago. I do allow the car to warm up before driving.I'm still under warranty, and have been to the dealer 3 times. Of course, it doesn't happen when I go to see the dealer. But they did re-tighten the motor mounts. I don't think it worked.
View 12 RepliesThe vehicle: 2002 Chevy Silverado 1500 w/ Z71.
The problem: Steerage issue. No problem exhibited while driving. However, at stop or very slow there is a loss of power steering but only when turning the wheels right. There is also an audible sound when turning to the right. Kind of a whooshing or air expulsion?
2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser. While driving, it seems at random, all gauges drop and stop working, no gas getting to the car, power loss. Sometimes lasts a split second, sometimes lasts up to 30 seconds. The car will even stall here and there, but usually not. Usually, power gets restored. But sometimes the car won't even start for an extended period of time. Of course, when the mechanic takes it for a ride it does nothing wrong.
View 2 RepliesMy '02 Explorer transmission is giving me a little trouble. The vehicle has 240,000 miles, but the transmission has been rebuilt several miles ago. I recently had the fluid changed, and I had them add a bottle of Lucas Transmission Fix, which I have had good luck with in the past. Most of the time, the transmission behaves normally.
Occasionally however, when I come to a stop after driving for a while, the transmission stops pulling, like it has shifted into neutral. Sometimes it will re-engage after a couple seconds, and sometimes I try to hurry it along by shifting to Park, then back to Drive and it will go. If I am on an incline, and the vehicle does this, it will actually roll down the hill.
Hopefully there is a simple fix because this thing is too close to the end of its life to require a hefty repair investment! Maybe a switch or a sensor. I'd love to tell you that I checked the fluid level, but Ford forgot to put a transmission dipstick on it.....
I recently changed the front pads and rotors on my 2002 Ford Ranger 2wd and I'm having some troubles now. Occasionally when I'm pulling up to stop lights toward the end of my braking i can feel them cut out and the ABS kicks on. It's a very intermittent problem, and it only happens at low speeds. When I try to induce the fault it never happens, it only seems to after an extended period of braking going less than 10 mph. I'm very confused, and I was thinking about changing out my calipers unless know what might be happening.
View 1 Replies