Ford - Focus :: 2008 - Engine Cranks But Hard Time Starting / Code P0171 - Low Fuel Pressure?
Oct 6, 2015
My Focus has 102,000 miles. It has thrown a p0171 code and I have been attempting to fix it. So far this is what I have done:Changed MAF, air filter, PCV Valve, plugs, Valve cover gaskets, Bank 1 O2 sensor and fuel filter. All new. I have cleaned the throttle body, fuel rail intake manifold. Cannot hear vacuum leaks and tested for leaks with carb cleaner.
Symptoms: engine cranks but has a hard time starting, usually on second try. When tank is about half full I get Rough acceleration, higher RPMs (doesn't change gear) and engine stalls on hard left turns. Idle gets rough at times but usually stabilizes at around 700 rpms.
At the beginning, #1 spark plug chamber had a lot of oil in it. It's been a few months and no oil after Valve cover gasket and PCV change. Tested coils and the plugs get a spark. Before I start messing with the fuel pump, am I missing something else that I can do?
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I have a problem with my 2003 Ford Focus ZTS. It has a 2.0L ZETEC engine and is automatic. I recently replaced the Starter, Alternator, and battery cable because the car was having some current issues. All parts are brand new, non-refurbished. The car cranks fine but is now sputtering. When I drive it, it seems like it has a hard time switching out of first gear and and will hit 3-3500 RPM before the gear shifts.
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I am still battling a p0171 code on my 2000 f150 5.4. I checked the fuel pressure at idle it sits at 31. I remove the vacuum line off the regulator it goes to 41. When i give it throttle when in gear it will maintain at 30. And when I shut the vehicle off completely it will maintain 38. Just looking to see if this is correct numbers. I was trying to determine a weak fuel pump.
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For the last few months my truck has been throwing an intermittent check engine light due to the same code every time - P0171. The dealer has allegedly checked everything and has given me the "We have done all we can do" speech. Lead tech even suggested that since today's fuels have alcohol in them, that a check engine light would be normal. The truck has been in the shop 3 times with no success or even remote possibility of what the problem could be.
The check engine light has since gone from intermittent to constant and comes back on after 5 drive cycles after clearing with an OBD2 scanner. Also, I'm now getting a P0174 code.
Personally, I think they're trying to blow me off because I'm a few months and about 2k miles away from being out of CPO warranty.
Truck is a 2013 F150 Super crew 2wd 5.0 with about 45k miles.
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My wife and i have an 07 accent 2 door and we have a very hard time starting the car after putting fuel in it. Tank level doesn't seem to affect this issue. The car has 160,000 km on it. I've replaced the coil packs already twice. After getting the car to start after putting fuel in it it struggles at idle for the first 15-30 sec and then bang problem is gone until the next time i put fuel in it.
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Code P0322 Mod10 Ignition/Dist Engine Speed Input Circuit no signal. Car had a hard time starting, then stalling, now it has been fine since the weekend.
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I just started to have this problem yesterday. Engine light comes on and stays on. Engine shakes and truck won't go over 50 MPH. Autozone code checker came up with P0171.
Truck has about 95K miles and I had the spark plugs replaced at 75K miles.
Transmission was rebuilt at around that time also.
I only drove it to Autozone and back today to post the code and see what everyone's opinion is as to what's wrong.
Here's what the printout says : P0171 "Fuel Trim Bank One Condition"
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We have a 2003 Passat 1.8t. Had the Check engine Light come on. Went down to AutoZone and hookeded up the OBDII reader. Came up with P0171, Fuel System for Bank 1 was too lean. Probable causes:
1. Fuel Pressure of MAF (If Bank 1 & Bank 2 set codes together)
2. O2 Sensor
3. Ignition Misfire
4. Fuel Injector Problem
Car has 60K - has always run well. Wife says she thinks it's running a bit sluggish. I rarely drive the car, but I think she's right. Car is not missing or running rough.
I cleared the code & started the engine; Check Engine Light is off; then looked at the codes and I find a P0171 (Pending). She tells me that the light has been on before & then gone away. So I guess it clears itself, but eventually comes back.
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2005 5.4L She would have a hard time starting before but after I replaced and fixed everything below she was running really good. Now back to sputtering, taking a long time to start and now not starting at all.
I have replaced; Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, FPDM, Plugs and COP's, FRP Sensor, followed the power wire from the FDPM and found it corroded bad so I replaced it, also changed the ground location on the FDPM, I have checked all the wires from the FDPM to the drivers seat, checked all fuses.
I have power to FPDM and I have the diagram for the plug but how can I test (hotwire) the Fuel Pump without lowering the fuel tank? What should be the voltage coming from the FPDM plug? not sure about pin 1 & 6.
How can I test the FRP sensor? what are the specs for voltage?
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I have an 05 Toyota corolla, and have the check engine light on, I scanned it at autozone and error code is P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1). Which shows following possible causes: Faulty MAF, O2, fuel injectors blockage etc. On recommendation from the guy in autozone, I added fuel additive to clean the fuel line/ injectors. The check engine light went away for 9 months. But it is back on again. Tried putting in fuel additive again but the light remains on.
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My high mileage V6 1999 Sierra starts fine and runs great in the morning or when it is cold. As soon a you try to restart hot is spins fast enough, but has a very hard time starting. When it does start, there is smoke from the gas and the engine idles very high for about 10 minutes before settling down. Same thing reoccurs over and over when the engine is hot. May idle up to 2500 rpm, cant kick it off.
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2003 1.8t gti ... Today when I got in my car...it fired up perfectly normal but when I got in it from leaving school it took 5min to fire up. The engine turned over but wouldn't fire all the time as if the spark plugs were bad. So I bought new NGK spark plugs and had the same issue just a little bit ago.
I know the obvious thing would be to change the ignition coils but they're out of stock everywhere so I have to have them shipped. My question is is the ignition coils the problem? They looked a bit worn but nothing serious.
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My truck's been having an occasional hard start, meaning the engine cranks strong but it fails to catch and then sputters. The 2nd start attempt usually fires up with no issues and then runs perfectly otherwise.
MPG's haven't changed, fuel filter was changed 15K ago. Air filter is clean. Plugs were changed about 10K ago. I always use Shell/Chevron gas. MAF sensor looked clean when I took it out so I didn't do anything to it.
This is starting to happen more frequently, maybe once every few weeks and I get a feeling it's the start of something. I've found myself waiting a few seconds for the fuel pressure gauge to come up before turning the key to start reliably. In the past, I could simply flick the key and it fires up the first time.
I see posts talking about the fuel pump module above the spare tire. What are symptoms of that going bad? Any pending codes that might be stored?
I'm about to get myself a scanner since I need one sooner or later. Which specific PID's to check while debugging this?
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So for a couple weeks my car has been having issues starting. When I turn the key initially it will do nothing sometimes, take a second to start sometimes, and start almost normally sometimes. It seems to be at it's worse when I leave it for longer periods, such as after work or overnight. What happens most is that I turn the key and nothing happens for a moment, then it starts to turn over, and after a few seconds of struggling to start it turns over. It hasn't gotten worse yet, but i'd like to hear from the more knowledgeable before I go to a mechanic.
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I have a 2002 v8 lse with 92000. When i go to start it after it has been sitting for 20 minutes or more it cranks for a long tome before starting. When it does start it idles fine but has a strong fuel smell. There are no codes and no problems once it starts. However it starts up right away in cold weather. It seems like a flooding issue. The fuel pressure is within range but it does seem to bleed off quicker than most cars i work on when the engine is no longer running..
Unfortunately I don't have the specs on on fuel pressure runoff. I suspect the fuel pressure sensor/regulator. I don't believe it would be an injector due to the fact it never runs rough or misses once started and if it was the pump it wouldn't give off a fuel smell in the exhaust once started.
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What a p0171 is?
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My 2005 STX 4.6 fuel pump crashed a couple of months ago. A couple of days after having it replaced I started having hard/rough starting problems accompanied by a 0300 and 0301 code. I reset the codes several times and they only come back during the 3rd or 4th hard start, never while driving. The hard starts occur after the engine is shut off for more than a few minutes after driving. I have replaced the plugs, #1 COP, remaining COP boots, Cam Pos Sensor, Fuel pump drive module and had and FI. Also had the fuel pump replaced again on warranty thinking maybe a bad check valve. Again...it worked perfectly for a day and now I'm back to square one. Haven't gotten any codes YET but its only been a day. Bad injector? EGR?
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I have a 2005 F-150 5.4L 2WD 90K miles. I started getting a misfire and hard jerk when going uphill. No codes for a few days but misfire got a little worse and more jerking at full throttle acceleration or level throttle up a hill got codes p0300 and p0171. I replaced the fuel filter cleaned MAF and changed plugs Motorcraft plugs (none of them broke during replacement). Miss got worse. Missing at idle and no power 3K rmp to get to 40. Only code pulled was p0171. Replaced upstream O2 sensors and COPs. Will barely idle now. Dies when put in gear. Full throttle barely moves forward a few feet just sputters. Checked vacuum lines cannot find anything. Only code I get is P0171. Fuel injectors next? Or shop?
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Truck stalls out and cranks hard for 7-10 seconds before starting if I don't let it warm up adequately before I start driving. Transmission is hesitant to shift. Also, white smoke comes out exhaust if it's cold and I get in the throttle too much or if I hit 70+mph.
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My 2011 f-350 6.2l cold starts hard, it cranks through 2 cycles sometimes before it fires, then it might stall. Sometimes it stalls if I put it into drive or reverse before its warmed up. It has also misfired on one or several cylinders during startup. It has also misfired while driving. It has never stalled when driving. I have replaced the canister purge valve, I have done a full tune up with all factory plugs. All with no change to how it starts. My next step is a Pcv valve, I have one coming from ford today.
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I own a 2003 3.o v-6 ranger, after a short or long drive, my truck has a hard time starting.. Starts fine before any driving..
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