Ford - Focus :: 2007 - Cruise Control Kicked Out / RPMs Went High And Then Acceleration Lost
Jun 25, 2012
Recently I was driving on the highway, about 70 miles into my trip, when all of a sudden my cruise control kicked out and the rpms went high and then I lost acceleration. I pulled over to the berm and tried to take off. Problem is I could not get the car past 30mph because the accelerator pedal could. not be pushed down more than an inch or two no matter how hard I pushed. What could be wrong???
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I'm worried about my beloved 02 Toyota Rav4. She's been a great car, we've driven all over the continent, never had a mechanical problem. Lately, particularly on humid days, my cruise control will stop working mid-trip and at the same time the RPMs start running high, nearly twice what they usually are. It lasts until I get home, next time I start her she's fine. The guys at the shop never find anything. The engine control module was replaced last year under an "extended warranty."
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I have a 2001 ford focus SE and l can't get the cruise control to work anymore, is the problem a fuse and if so where is it located or a problem with brake pedal?
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I've got a misfire problem with my Focus. It started about a month ago and did not trip a code until last week. It stumbles on acceleration between 2,000 and 4,000 rpms. It is only a slight stumble and although noticeable, it does not impede driveability much. Last week I was able to get it to finally trip an OBD code. P302 - Cylinder 2 misfire. I changed the plugs and wires with no effect. I thought I had it narrowed down to the coil or injector until my wife noticed a new wrinkle.
Under normal driving conditions the misfire is annoying, but my wife found that if she turns on the A/C, it is undriveable and will not accelerate past 30 mph without some patience and a neck brace for the bucking. My first thought was the A/C compressor was freezing up. I turned off the A/C and left the blower on and it would not stop missing. I turn off the blower and it smooths right out to the annoyance I described first.
Right now I drive the car without A/C and blower whenever I accelerate. If I'm going a steady speed, all is well and I can run the blower and A/C.
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I have a 2002 Ford Focus ZX5 with about 108,000 miles on it. It's driven far distances, about 700 miles round trip, a couple times a month. About about three times since last summer, approximately halfway through one leg (at around 200 miles in), the engine starts jerking when accelerating. It doesn't happen on every trip, and seems to only happen on hotter days.
(Driving around town short distances, even at high RPMs doesn't present a problem at all, it's specifically after a couple hundred miles.) The engine light has flashed, but not every time the jerking occurs and hasn't stayed on, and the code that was pulled doesn't seem to be telling either the mechanics or Ford know what the deal is. I'm looking at having the whole transmission swapped for well over a grand, but with the disclaimer that it's not a guaranteed fix.
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So i was replacing my power steering box after the shaft broke on it and apparently i didn't have my steering wheel back to exact center. after putting everything back together and started to drive down the road a very thin flat wiring harness broke and got tangled around my steering column under the plastics of the column. I then lost my horn and my cruise control and i believe my airbag. I pulled the wiring harness out and it was very long with two white plugs on either end. I'm not sure what this part is called or where i would be able to buy another one. And if there's some kind of instructions on how or where this harness plugs into sense it was ripped out.
2000 ford f-350 lariat 7.3l diesel....
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I have only a week ago returned from a 4300 mile odyssey with no problems, but yesterday while taking a turn in the country, my cruise control vanished! This is a Gen III, model IV, STANDARD cruise, and out of warranty, 43K. Stopped briefly to go into a shop and when I came out and started the car again......no cruise! No it wasn't in "B", all of us have had that happen to us at some point if we use B at all. It continues to be "non-functioning", and w/o any green pilot light on the dash display, or despite that no engagement,....I tried.
I figured it must have blown a fuse. The owners manual is quite good regards both the under hood and the under dash fuse boxes, telling you what each one is for, etc., but I can find none of these fuses with a code that I am even remotely confident is for the CC. Where is the fuse for the cruise control? Is it in another remote area? What is the "code" for it? Or if it is in one of these fuse panels, what # is it?
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RPM's are dropping way off when coasting downhill while towing (as if the motor shut down), CC is on and maintaining desired speed. When at the bottom of the hill, all of a sudden, with a big bang(in the motor) the rpm's have came back up and you drive on down the road as normal. This seems to happen only when towing. "99 F250 7.3 I haven't pulled any codes as of yet. Whats happening?
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As stated in the title, I have a 2000 Isuzu rodeo s fwd v6 SUV. While driving on the road recently I lost my speedometer, odometer, and cruise control. The odometer is digital and I can still read the display when the car is on, however the number never changes. There is a little over 185 K on the odometer. I did some research on my own and figured the problem was my vehicle speed sensor (VSS). I thus bought one, changed it without problems, yet my problem persists.
Now when I drive for a bit, and come to a stop my vehicle sometimes stalls. Not all the time though. I figure even though the VSS is good (I changed the second one I put in again for a factory VSS and still I get no change) maybe the signal isn't getting to the ECM. What are my other options for the issue? Could it be the cluster behind the console? Is there a speedometer cable in this vehicle that could be causing this problem? Is there some little selenoid somewhere that is bad and is causing these problems?
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My '99 F150 suddenly lost all interior heater/ac fan control settings except for Hi. Is it the switch or something else in the circuit?
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I have had my 8 month old Prius for a week. I have used cruise control fine before and after the incident. All of a sudden we started slowing down. Doing any thing on the cruise control had no effect. I canceled it. But every time I pressed the accelerator I just got the amber warning light come up and the car beeped at me and no acceleration. The cruise control didn't get the car going either. I had to stop on the motorway. Put the car into park then put it into drive and drove off fine and the car has worked fine since.
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I own a 2006 B6 and I'm just ticking down the list of common repairs... The last series started with boost lost anytime the car was pulling a steep hill or high acceleration. Eventually I lost boost altogether. I replaced the PCV valve and got back a little power but still no boost. This last weekend I replaced the DV valve. The old one was visually shot. The new one is the latest revision of that valve. Now, the boost will kick in, and cut out, kick in, cut out, in a rapid cycle during any acceleration. I double checked that it was installed and tightened (stripped the bolt heads) and reseated the electrical connection. I'm still getting the rough on/off of the turbo. If I slowly increase the acceleration it will act better, but that isn't a sure thing. I love the car, but I'm about to reach the point of pushing it off a cliff.
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The car seems to start accelerating on it own. Say cruise control is set you notice acceleration for no reason. Now cruise control does not work and acceleration at times still happens. It's not like you are flooring it just keeps going faster slowly. Don't know if this could be related I did replace the fuel pump recently and the crankshaft position sensor. I was looking to see if there is a re learn procedure for the crank sensor. I have replaced them in the past and don't remember having to do a relearn.
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It started with the cruise control turning off every once in a while. Then it would only stay on for 7-8 seconds, then eventually it would turn on, then shut right off. Now it won't even turn on.
When I did the diagnosis sequence (On, Resume, Coast, Set....) it blinked 3 times saying "Bad deactivation switch or circuit". So I replaced the blue switch on the brake pedal and it still doesn't engage.
It's a 4.0 liter with a manual tranny. I've been researching this a lot, and it seems in 2007 they changed up things probably because of the big recall.
I don't see any kind of deactivation switch around the master cylinder. It seems that was in use until 2006 or 2005.
I see a different kind of switch on the clutch pedal, thinking it must also have a deactivation switch. I see a long spring loaded type of switch with about 5-6 wires coming out of it, but I can't find any info on the web about that switch.
All three of my brake lights are working. It seemed to deteriorate rather quickly (Over the course of 3 days) and now it's completely dead.
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My wife has a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am, as seen above. The car recently started having issues, especially when cold, where the RPMs will rise when in gear but the car will not accelerate. It happened from 25 mph and lower while in a subdivision as well as around 45 mph on city streets. I have a feeling this is a transmission issue, but don't have much experience when it comes to transmissions.
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My company has a fleet of about 20 2007 GL AWD Santa Fe's. A few of them have had a strange problem....AWD, ESC, and check engine lights will turn on and they will lose acceleration of the vehicle. The dealership has said that it is a problem with the electronic throttle. Apparently it has been quite dangerous for some who have been driving at highway speeds and lost acceleration.
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,I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra (stick shift) with about 104k on it. Was running absolutely great till about a month ago when I noticed that it was beginning to accelerate quite slowly. If I pushed it and got the RPMs up really high it would still pick up, but still not great performance. Also after pushing it a little hard there was a faint burning or smoke smell. Note, once it is up to speed say 60 or 70 it has no trouble maintaining such speeds. It just takes a while getting up to them. And if I really need to step on it the RPMs sky rocket with no real immediate increase in speed.
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2010 Mazda Speed 3 ....My car has about 62,000 miles on it and has recently been having acceleration issues. 1-3rd gear seem under powered and what I am giving on the gas does not equal the power that should be coming forth, the RPMs seem to shoot up really high with no power transfer. When i am in 3-5th gear my acceleration is again funky with the slightest touch on the gas again causing the RPMs to jump high with no return of power to actually accelerate. I recently replaced the battery and changed the oil??
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My cruise control has been out for awhile and I have run the diagnostic test several times, earlier this year and now again recently. The cruise control light blinks after I push the ON and RESUME buttons, but no blink for the COAST button. I suspect there is a problem in the wiring, but I wanted to get your thoughts before I replace the switches. 2007 Ranger XLT ....
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I found two times the cruise control auto on by itself while I was driving on the road.
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My wife has a 01 ford focus zx3 3 door automatic wont start she was driving and it lost power and shut down I replaced the plugs, wires, pcv hose and pcv valve, coil, fuel pump good 40psi, compression 150 to 180, even drop the converter still wont start could the injectors play a role.....
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