Ford - Focus :: 2006 - Brake Auto Applying Intermittently
Jul 31, 2011
I have 2006 Ford Focus that was recently in a small rear end crash. The airbags went off. The only damage was a front bumper and hood and plastic grill. The computer had to be reset by Ford dealer for the airbag. Since the accident the front brakes intermittently apply, not enough to slam the car to a stop, but enough to slow it down and limit acceleration. We have replaced the rotors, calipers and front brake lines. Problem still exists. Ford says the computer shows nothing (duh) and my mechanic of 20 years doesn't know what else to do.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Highlander Hybrid 4WD. Whenever I apply the brake pedal past a certain point, I hear some sort of clunking type of noise from the front of the car. The noise can be done when braking hard, or even if I am at a stop and just press the pedal down hard. It sounds bad but I have not noticed any issues in braking performance. Everything is stock, brake pads have 60-70% as of my last serving. What this is and if I need to be concerned?
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I replaced a brake cylinder on my 2006 Focus rear drum brake. Now, I need to bleed the brake fluid, but I can't find a wrench to fit the nut.10mm is too small and 11mm is too big. What's going on? Could it be the rusted nut has grown in size enough to make the 10mm wrench too small? Or, is the nut standard?I know the drum bleeder nut I know the front disc brake bleeder brake is 10mm. So, I am thinking the rear should be metric, but since it's drum, I am not so sure. What the size is?
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Occasionally my 2004 Ford Focus will not start. I put in the keys and turn them. The lights and radio fire up and there is a click, but the engine won't turn over. To resolve this, I remove the key, open the hood, loosen the battery cable on the positive terminal, wiggle the cable around, and then tighten it back down. I then go back in the car and turn the key. The engine starts. Is there a bad connection somewhere? Should I replace the battery cable?
Long version of the problem: I've been having these problems intermittently for almost a year now. After the first or second time I had the car towed to a local shop. They couldn't figure out what the problem was because the car was starting just fine at the shop. The mechanic said that some of the cables might have shifted around in the towing process. So I tossed an adjustable wrench in the glove box in preparation for the next time. The next day, it happened again. Through some quick trial and error, I narrowed down the problem to be the positive battery cable (or something that's connected to it).
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I have a '10 Focus SE I got used about three months ago. I updated the Sync software to the then-current version. I connect my iPhone for both phone and music via Bluetooth.
Every now and then, with no pattern I can determine, when I get into the car and turn it on, the music system immediately plays the FM radio instead of connecting to my phone and playing the music where it left off when I last got out of the car.
I am turning Bluetooth on on the iPhone before I get in the car, and I'm turning it off after I turn off the car and exit it, so it's not a matter of BT from the phone not being available.
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I bought my girlfriend a 2000 Ford Focus with 150k Miles on it to drive for the summer in Oregon. The car is physically in great condition with no noticeable leaks on it. After a week or so of driving, my girlfriend complained that a couple of times she would be driving the car and while going up a hill "nothing would happen" sometimes when she punched the accelerator. I asked her if the engine revolutions were going up and if the engine made a "vroom" sound (to try to see if the transmission was slipping) and she said it did not.
On a long trip driving from Seattle to Portland, she was driving again and we were climbing a long hill and she suddenly complained that "nothing was happening" when she punched the accelerator. She panicked and pulled off to the side of the road quickly. There was no shaking or vibration. I did not hear the engine wind up when this happened... so I am assuming the tach was not going up when she depressed the gas pedal. I opened the hood and looked inside and seeing nothing obvious, I switched to the drivers' side. No codes were thrown. I drove the car up the rest of the hill and to a flat area and we let the car cool off for a few minutes. I drove the car for the next 75 miles to Portland without event. When we got to her grandparents house, I changed the spark plugs (which were pretty fouled up), and changed the fuel filter (which actually looked pretty new.) and it seemed to satisfy her for awhile. Being that I havent experienced the issue, I just assumed she is not used to driving a small hatchback with a fairly wimpy engine.
In the meantime I had the entire front end redone, control arms, etc and alignment because she had had a slight shake...which is unrelated here but i figured I'd mention it. So, the other night she calls me on the side of the road, slightly shaken. Her latest incident was as such: at the bottom of an on-ramp to the highway, she punched the accelerator and "nothing happened" when she hit the pedal. This time the check engine light briefly came on, and the "OIL" light came on. She was able to pull off to the side of the road somehow and then pull to an exit. She turned the car off and let it sit for 5 minutes.
Here's the weird part: She started it up and claims she put it in "Drive" and pressed the gas pedal and nothing happened and the car actually started creeping backwards. She hit the brake and turned the car off. She started the car and drove away 5 minutes later without incident and drove it 20 minutes home. She said her gas was very low when this happened, close to the gas light coming on.
She took the car to a reliable mechanic in seattle the next day, and they said there was no issues and they thought the car was actually in great shape. Unfortunately no codes were logged and no codes have been logged at all! My only other weird observation about the car is that the tach seems to fall kind of quickly after acceleration... almost comically compared to my volkswagen 1.8 which has a gentle rise and fall to it. It kind of bounces up and down but the ride is smooth. Random, but i figured i'd mention it
Should she just make sure to keep the gas level above low/empty?Should a fuel pressure check be on the docket? The previous owner claimed the timing belt only had 25k on it, but he could have been lying.
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My son's 2006 F-150 4x4, with 107,000 miles, has in intermittent brake light on. I replaced the rear pads, as they were nearly into the rotors. The brake pedal feels fine in all braking conditions. Could the master cylinder still be going bad? Anything else to check?
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2002 Excursion 4x4. While applying my emergency brake today I heard a loud bang. Now, the parking brake won't come up when I pull the parking brake release. Also, the noise is driving me crazy. Is there a way to release the pedal until I can get the cable replaced?
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I just joined as I bought my '97 F-150 5.4 4X4 about 3 months ago. The dealer gave me a 6 month warranty but hasn't honored it at all and I've had one problem after another. That's another story though but right now I'm just trying to fix the important issues. The problem at hand are my brakes.
I was noticing a couple days ago (maybe I never noticed it that much as it was a new vehicle to me) that when I apply the brakes it sounds like a bicycle pump and the pedal travels nearly all the way down. It doesn't hit the firewall but I'd probably guess it has 3 more inches or less until it bottoms out. The hissing only occurs as the pedal travels and stops when the brake pedal isn't moving.
Now I'm not sure if the hissing sound is normal as I replaced the brake booster (from the junkyard though) and the new one still hisses when I apply brakes. The brakes seem to work okay, could be more sensitive it's just the pedal feels soft until it almost bottoms out like I stated before and the the brakes grab a little bit harder. What could it be?
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2005 F-250 6.0 4x4. After about 50,000 miles on my original brakes, they started to make a squealing noise when applying moderate brake pressure and slowing down around 30mph-0mph. It only happens after Ive driven the truck about 30 mins. It must be warmed up. After 100,000 I decided to change the brakes.....they had plenty of life left on them, but I changed them anyway. I put on new rotors and pads and calipers in the front because one was hanging.
After about 10,000 miles, the exact same squeal has returned. With the windows down, its loud enough to physically hurt your ears if you are next to a car and the sound can bounce back into the cab. It sounds terrible. I thought it was the front brakes, so I took them apart this weekend to put in some Disc Brake Quiet. They pads look great, plenty left, the rotors look great, no grooves. Everything is tight. I relubed pins and brackets and clips. Today...same squeal still. I am at a complete loss here. It is some sort of harmonic squeal and the only thing I can figure is that the rears are the culprit. I have a drivers rear caliper that will hang and stick if you drive it really hard, so I am considering replacing the rear calipers too and do the disc brake quiet treatment there as well. Im not confident this will solve the problem.
Like I said, its so loud you can't drive with the windows down. Its a piercing squeal. Is there anything else that I can check? I can't imagine others don't do this. Its so loud and pronounced that it must be some sort of design flaw or something.
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I have a 05 Ford escape with 107K. When I make a right turn and applying the brakes I feel a clunking in the brake pedal. checked all front brakes and all is ok. So I looked at the drive shaft on the drivers side. I can move or wobble the drive shaft around on the in board CV going in the transmission. Is that normal?
There are no "Clicking" sounds any where while turning which would tell me that is what it is. Also while driving slow not applying brakes there is a lot of clunking and knocking sounds while going over a few little bumps here and there. Is it the inboard CV joint?
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ESC Off & Brake Light keep appearing intermittently. When I turn the car off and then back on, they go off. This has happened about 5 or 6 times in the last week.
I want to take it to the dealer but I just know I'll get a, "cannot duplicate problem" from them because it doesn't happen all the time. I'm going on a trip in two weeks and I don't want to run into problems on the road.
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I just purchased a LS 460 2007, 64k miles. The brake when apply squeal, but not all the time when the break is applied. 5 times out of 10 times when you apply the break when driving the car for more than 20 minutes it start to squeal. It does not squeal when you first drive in the morning, but after driving more than 20 minutes, when you apply the brake - it will squeal on and off during various application of the break. Does the LS460 have brake indicator that would squeal all the time when you need new break? I am not sure what the sign that LS460 would need new break and rotor.....
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I just noticed yesterday when I used the electronic Parking Brake. When I engaged the Electronic Parking brake, the DRL Indicator (light) on the dash went off. I did not go outside of the vehicle to see if they actually turned off (the vehicle was still running). Is that normal?
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I have a 2009 Saturn aura and what's goin on is when I apply my brakes the car hesitates a sec then slightly jerks before moving on. It doesn't do it any other time and it will happen no matter what gear or speed I am in/going. Only when the brakes are applied......?? I just don't get it. It smooth as ever just as long as I don't touch the bake
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I assume it's normal but at say 35 MPH or so coasting down a hill when applying the brake the RPM's rise to around 3K. Auto downshift to support braking?
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When parking on an incline, say my driveway which is pretty steep, I engage my emergency brake. When I release the brake I get a creaking noise as I put it in reverse to back out of the driveway.Two questions is using the emergency brake really going to keep my car from rolling back down the driveway and does the creaking noise mean the emergency or rear brakes are being stressed by holding the car in an incline for several hours each day?
I really worry some days I am going to walk outside and my car will be in the neighbor's yard.
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Driving a 2008 Passat with a factory 6 disc radio installed noticed a faint beeping sound after applying the brake when the SAT Radio is selected? I hear it all the time, especially when I'm listening to talk show and the volume is up high. Surprisingly, it doesn't make that sound when I have the CD Player selected.
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Here's the story, noise first appeared while accelerating to merge onto highways and then applying gentle braking. Sounded like "seagulls". Not my description. To me it sounded like a rubbing pulsating noise. Would not go away unless you came to a full stop. Then would appear again every other time you entered highway at, say, 85 and applied brakes to slow down to 75-80.
The kicker is, that was 35+k miles ago. Annoying, but three different dealerships never found anything and the service techs always made big eyes once you mentioned 85+ mph. "Oh, we can't legally replicate that"
Fast forward to now (meanwhile rotors changed, pads, tires) - the noise seems to appear randomly at lower speeds. It is also quieter (barely noticeable above 65).
Example from today - left dealership sporting new tires and a fresh proper 4-wheel alignment.
After accelerating to ~50 noticed the sound. Couple miles down the road stopped, made a U-turn - sound gone. Could not replicate for a while. Then had it twice on "straight and level" segments, seemingly random. On cruise control at 55 (hear it the best at that speed) sounds stay the same regardless of rpm (6-5-4 gear - no changes). Pulsating gets quicker-slower with speed. Very gently decelerated to 25 - noise went away completely, pedal to the metal back to 60 - no noise.
I'm at a complete loss as for what it can be. Turning makes no impact, no play on bearings (and I'm pretty sure those would have died long ago if it was them), rotors changed with zero impact, tires too.
Changes over time - got quieter and started to appear at lower speeds.
All stock except for H&R Sport springs on stock shocks. 88000 miles
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It feels a strange noise like a shutter closes around Gear Nob/Handle while applying brake and the brake pedal is half pushed, approximately;
Even the car is in Parking Position and you push brake pedal, it half way pushed and Tick/Click noise like a shutter closing sound and then goes.
It quite hear able noise and coming from some time now.
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I have a 2002 Honda Civic EX 1.7L. Recently the brake pedal would sometimes go to the floor when I'd apply the brakes. The car would still stop, but not as quickly as normally. If I apply the brake and it goes to the floor I would release the pedal and reapply the brake and it would stop at it's normal position and the brakes felt firm and the car would stop fine. I was told my problem was the master cylinder so I bought one on Sunday and replaced it. I bled the lines and it seemed like all the air was out. The brakes worked great and the pedal stopped in the same place and was firm.
Now today on my way to work the pedal went down a little farther than normal during one stop. On the way home it stopped in different places. The brakes would always grab and the pedal felt fairly firm wherever it stopped. I drove it this evening again and the pedal went to the floor like with the old master cylinder. One pump and they grabbed in the normal spot. What is going on? Did I not bleed the lines well enough? Is the new master cylinder just junk? I saw in the manual that air can get trapped in the ABS sensor, but an air bubble problem should just make the pedal squishy, not change where it grabs, right? I'm stumped and I really don't want to take my car in if I can fix it.
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