I am trying to get opinions on the best and safest Head Gasket Sealer that will be used on a 2003 ford focus. I was recently told by a mechanic that my head gasket needed to be replaced and was the cause of the water reservoir losing antifreeze and constantly needing to be added even though there were no traces of leakage.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2010 F150 4.6 3V... The power steering reservoir is constantly losing fluid. I've purchased the truck,used, a few months ago, bought a warranty. The dealership has had it multiple times now and can't find the leak. They just keep replacing hoses and the problem keeps occurring. Also worth noting, the truck has 6" lift with 35s. I've have also pulled the radiator cap and found a decent amount of what looks to be sludge/oil inside. Dealership says it's probably just bad coolant.
View 1 RepliesOk so I have a 97 f150 4.6 Windsor motor it recently started doing this I have put in a new water pump heater core newer thermostat and intake gaskets as well as plugs and wires. It smells a little like gas in the reservoir . I had this problem once before so I replaced the thermostat and it looked to have that copper liquid heater core fix in it from the previous owner trying to fix the heater core so I thought it might've been that again but I stuck the thermostat in a boiling pot of water and it opened so I don't think that's my problem I'm wondering could be the intake gaskets leaking because the oil is clean I'm praying it's not a head gasket..
View 11 RepliesNoticed this leak today a few days after parking the Ex (V10) -- not a daily driver. Crawled under the Ex and checked under the hood but I could not find an obvious sign of where the leak is coming from.
I checked the coolant plastic reservoir and its on MIN -- I believe that where it should be when the engine is cold. I noticed that these trucks do not have a cap directly on the radiator. That plastic reservoir, is that where I would top off the coolant?
Is there a spot on these engines where it would commonly leak? Should I try to put some dye on the coolant and/or possibly pressure test it?
Radiator replaced 2 yrs. ago - required major rust cleanout; reservoir replaced shortly thereafter. Recently engine always hot, antifreeze disappearing, reservoir always looks rusty, nothing much coming out underneath, mechanic pressure tested and couldn't find a leak, told to watch for antifreeze in oil, none apparent. Now suddenly car ran hot, antifreeze came out of reservoir, cap replaced, still couldn't find leak. Today said head gasket blown. Repair head gasket, but can't guarantee wouldn't still have radiator problems. Suggested could try Blue Devil head gasket repair but may not work.
Is it worth :
(a) trying the Blue Devil;
(b) repairing the head gasket?
Or will I still have major repair needs with radiator etc.? I really can't afford even a cheap replacement car.
I have a 2005 Ford Focus ZX4. It is a stick. For the past month it has been having trouble starting, the example I will turn the key and it will try to start up, but doesn't. Then it will start but it is weak, sputtering, not wanting to really start, but I give it a little gas and it is fine. The last time it happened, It started after about 8 tries. I was driving a little ways and all of a sudden the radio/cd player quit working flashing a message that said low battery. Then all the lights in the car started to dim out. The headlights started dimming out too.
I did make it home, turned it off and when I tried to start it again all I heard was a click, click, click noise. It is at the shop now. I thought for sure it was the alternator, but they said the alternator is testing fine and once they 'recharged' the battery it is fine too. They drove it around for about a half an hour and they said it was running fine. What the what? They said they did have the problem getting it to start that I did, but only once. Now they aren't sure what the problem is. I don't want to get ripped off! I also don't want to have to fix something that isn't broken. I
I have a 2005 Ford Focus. It has recently begun losing power. The RPMs will race while the speed steadily drops (especially on hills but it's started doing it on lesser inclines). It's been accompanied at times by my car shifting hard and the overdrive off light flashing orange until I pull over and turn it off. When I start it again the light clears. There are no other warning lights. I've taken it to my mechanic twice. He's serviced the transmission, replaced the spark plugs and the fuel filter. He's run the diagnostics and nothing is showing up.
View 3 RepliesHave a 99 F250 V10 was having issues with it going in limp mode took it to the shop they said number 1 cylinder running hot I had the head rebuild all new gaskets less than 10 miles truck shuts off pullover no antifreeze put antifreeze and water in Reservoir start back up look at Reservoir it's empty shut it off pour more water in Reservoir and it go straight down to empty.
View 6 RepliesI have oil in the little plastic resevoir of my 2000 Honda Civic. It does not overheat and I noticed that their is no foam in the oil dipstick (no water in motor). Somebody told me that it is my radiator.
View 7 RepliesThis is my second vw I've owned and now I own a 20th ae gti. Just the other day I got out of my car and smelled antifreeze. So I popped the hood and realized there was no coolant in the reservoir.. So I went to my dealership, put some in... well that obviously isn't my problem, because the next day it was gone. Again. This is on sunday so I can't do anything about it. I made an appt to drop it off tonight @ my volkswagen dealer. It's not leaking, not smoking or burning, and the temp gauge isn't moving at all.
View 20 RepliesI have a 2001 530i BMW experiencing an overheating problem. I replaced hoses, radiator, thermostat, water pump, alternator, both belts all of which went fine. However still loosing anti-freeze, it seems to be coming from under the intake manifold. Looking for step by step instructions on removing it to get to the problem?
View 5 RepliesMy truck is losing antifreeze. It seems to push it out over flow jug. I have changed thermostats. This work for temp but not problem. From what I have found this engine is reliable. 2005 Chevy Duramax....
View 2 RepliesMy Buick's 03 lesabre overflow reservoir cap is screwed on and has a gasket in it so it cant possibly leak air. I'm still wondering how does air or antifreeze get displaced in a overflow reservoir container that has no outlet to breath unless its forced through only one hose at the bottom in- and there is always a little pressure in the container to push the antifreeze back into the radiator when it cools off at the radiator metal cap?
View 19 Replies2010 MKVI GTI ... Woke up this morning and there was a puddle under my car. Reservoir was completely empty. I jacked it up and got a look under while running some coolant through and think I found the leak.
What this is, and if it's leaking as it appears to be and if a choad can fix it, or if a certified mechanic must be engaged.
It seems to be dripping all along this clam shell along these star nuts.
[URL] ....
Why am I losing coolant out of overflow on a 1999 jeep Cherokee classic for ?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2011 SE I4 with roughly 12k on it. Here's my problem: The past few days, I've been smelling something sweet coming out of my AC. I thought nothing much of it until today, when I noticed that my coolant/antifreeze reservoir level was slightly below the low "L" point with the engine cold. I am not sure if this means that I have a leak or something more serious? Is there something that I can do to try and figure out what the hell is wrong? My car is still under warranty, is this something that the dealership should look into? Will there be a cost for that?
View 7 RepliesMy wife's car, a 2003 Buick Century, has died a couple times on her while driving. Each time has been while she was in the midst of a left turn, so I think that is relevant. Today it is a humid, raining off/on kind of day, but she says that she thinks the last time it did it was a dry day. When it dies, she pulls over, puts it in park, and restarts the car, it runs normal, no problems. She said she has turned the ignition switch off, and then starts the car, and has not tried just turning forward to start, however her daughter said that when it died on her, she could not turn it to start - she had to turn it off then back on and it started fine.
Her daughter said that she had it die once while sitting at a traffic light, so I may be off base thinking that it is related to a left turn. The car has about 155K miles on it, and the only engine work that has been done on it other than maintenance is that the catalytic converter was replaced a few years back, when it was plugged up.
On this same car, I have to spray brake cleaner on the ABS sensors (front) about every 3-4 weeks, when the ABS light and the TRAC Off lights come on. Is there some way to keep them from becoming fouled?
My 2002 f150 xl didn't come with factory cruise..I have installed all the essentials steering wheel, clock spring, cruise module, redundant brake sensor. My e.c.u. would not support cruise so I found a 1999 with all the same parameters as mine, I changed the dash cluster, e.c.u. , both pats modules, key cylinder ect....the truck started but ran horrible. My trucks has a 4.6 in it so did the donor truck. It's a 2x4 automatic with about 250k mi
View 1 RepliesMy water-in-fuel light has been on constantly since I bought my 6.0L X about 3 weeks ago. Replaced fuel filters immediately; used DieselKleen in fuel; drained the HFCM multiple times... no water (upgraded the HFCM plug too). Sprayed some carb cleaner through drain hole and out runs red goo. Finally had time to clean out the HFCM this weekend. Raised front-end on ramps, chocked wheels.
Attempted to remove front drive shaft to 4x4. Couldn't free one of the bolts on the front U-joint. Rats. Since I couldn't remove the drive shaft, there wasn't enough room to remove the entire HFCM, so I removed only the cover.
Disconnect battery.
Unplug WIF sensor and fuel heater.
Drain HFCM (again) to make sure it's empty...it wasn't.
Disconnect 4 fuel lines. Wipe fuel from running down arms. I should mention that I had less than 1/4 tank of fuel to try and minimize spillage.
Remove 4 cover screws (7mm, though my 5/16" SAE socket fit better.)
Clean cover and HFCM with carb cleaner.
Replace HFCM gasket.
Replace HFCM cover; screws were hand-tightened.
Reconnect fuel lines and sensors.
Cycle Key-On, Engine Off (KOEO) about 4-5 times.
Crank 'er up....no more WIF light.
Here are some before and after pics.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
So I have a 2005 Dodge Stratus. It must be a year old model because most of the parts and engine wise are of the 2006 model. Well earlier in Feb/March I had to get my timing belt and heads changed due to the bending. After that my car was working fine, but my coolant overflow tank kept losing coolant. Had that fixed with the repair shop as well. After that it seemed that my car was working well. Then it started to overheat, and I was informed that my lower radiator hose had a small leak. I had that fixed as well. This is when the constant overheating started.
I assumed that the air needed to be removed from the system. So I had it bleed, and then it seemed to work well, but that was not true seeing as my car continued to overheat of the cold air was on. The only thing that keeps it working is if I turn the heater on. That cools the system off. So now everyday I have to keep letting air out of the radiators, and run the heater if it gets too hot.
I just noticed today that my thermostat housing bolts have coolant on them whenever the engine gets to hot. Do you think it's not right enough, or my radiator cap may be bad?
Replacements:
Head gasket
Thermostat
Radiator hoses
I believe the cap of the radiator as well.
Just picked up a 03 Excursion limited 6.0, traded in my 04 f150 for it. Runs great- The dealer put in a new FICM and did a full tune up on it, also has stock bolts, NOT studs. I just added a SCT livewire with canned tunes, and have what feels like a misfire or stutter at high boost/ RPM. The only thing I see on the SCT gauges is the ICP hits about 22.5 and then drops off, that is with the street tune, when i go back to stock i can hit 24+ all day without a issue. Both tunes have my FICM at 48-48.5 and never moves. The ICP Duty also in both tunes will go to about .7-.8 and never drops... Is this the fuel pressure dropping from lack of the "Blue Spring mod" ?
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