Ford - Focus :: 2003 - Speedometer And RPM Gauges Dropping Down To 0 - No Reading?
Apr 12, 2015
I have a 2003 Ford Focus ZX5 automatic with 143k miles on it. Recently I've run into a problem with the speedometer and RPM gauges dropping down to 0, no reading. It is an intermittent problem and has no logical connection to any of the other functions of the vehicle (it can happen while the car is idling, in motion, upon startup, etc etc.) Everything else on the instrument cluster works perfectly fine, (odometer still reads correctly and works, gas gauge is fine, etc). I'm thinking maybe it is an electrical issue since the car seems to be in fine working condition other than that, even when it drops out. The gauges won't start reading again until I start the car up...and sometimes that is not a guarantee. I use this vehicle to commute locally 4 days a week and I've already put a lot of money into new components for the vehicle.
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I recently purchased a 2000 F150 Regular Cab Work Series with the 4.2 V6 4x4 and an automatic transmission. It has what seems to be an electrical issue where the speedometer and gauges come in and out seemingly at random. All of my fuses are good with the exception of Fuse 1 in the fuse box under the steering wheel, which will blow every time I put a new one in. It seems like there is a short in the wiring for the radio? However Fuse 1 is supposed to control only the audio, and I'm not sure why that would be an issue with the gauges.
When they come on, everything seems to work just fine. Also, even when they go out and I have the headlights on, both the gauges and the car stereo will be backlit with the green glow.
When I turn put the key in the run position, the gauges will come on and remain on for a random amount of time after I start the engine, then will go out and come on at random. When the gauges go out so will my check engine light (code P0460).
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I have a 2003 Toyota Camry LE V6, It has 15 inch stock wheels on it
If I go to a larger wheel, is it possible to change the wheel speed so that the speedometer reads correct? If I have read correct, the stock offset is +45 and the lug pattern is 5x114.3 and a 6.5inch wheel?
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2011 Focus 2.0L L4 engine, manual transmission, 70K miles - when up-shifting gears, the throttle remains high, dropping v-e-r-y slowly instead of dropping rapidly when the throttle is released. It is the same when not moving, when the throttle is run up to steady RPM's, then the pedal is released, the RPM's drop slowly. This has started recently, at first I thought it was just 'operator error', and that our shifting skills were deteriorating with age (ours, not the car), but testing has proven the fault lies with the vehicle. I researched sticking throttle issues, and thought I had located the problem as a bad throttle body assembly. Changed it out with a new one, went thru the computer reset procedure,and the problem still exists. No error codes are showing, but the little yellow wrench light is lit on the dash (resets each startup. Vehicle drives fine otherwise, no loss of power, etc.
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On the way home from my first weekend trip in my '04Screw, I noticed the speedometer did not agree with my GPS, which was sitting ontop of the dash. The speedometer was reading 2-3 mph faster than the GPS.
The truck was taching about 2,000 rpm .. speedometer read 72-73 .. and the Garmin III+ GPS read 2-3 mph less than the truck, tracking 8 out of 12 satellites, and varied between 68 and 69 mph.
My Lariat does have 18 inch tires. I don't have a clue if that caused the difference.
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I have a 2000 Excursion V10, I keep blowing the #19 10A miniature fuse while I am going down the road. All gauges and speedometer all of sudden die but the vehicle keeps running until I turn it off. When I try to restart she won't fire until I put a new fuse in.
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I purchased a 90 Suburban and the fuel gauge reads low. I then changed the fuel pump and sending unit. The fuel gauge still reads low.
Then I noticed that all the gauges read low. Temp is low. Oil press is only a quarter up, the ammeter reads zero.
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When I start the car the fuel gauge sometimes goes past F and interferes with the water temp gauge. Also noticed recently that the RPM is not reading correctly.
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When I fill my gas tank (in other words, until the pump clicks off on its own) the dashboard gas tank gauge is at only at about 3/4 full. Itdoesn't seem to be the type of needle that shleps its way up after a few minutes. So I continue filling on my own until I have as close to a full tank as I can get without any overspill. What's up with that?
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Got a weird one today. Everything was fine all day. Got the old girl smogged this afternoon and made one more quick stop. Got back on the freeway and up to speed and looked down. Speedo said I was 90? Yeah right. I was going with the flow.
So I plugged in my bluetooth ALDL dongle and fired up OBD Link. Well, OBD Link showed normal and accurate speeds. As did a second app on my phone for giving speed. So my VSS must be working correctly.
So my speedo is showing about 25 over actual. When the ignition if off the needle sits between 20 and 25. so did my speedo take a dump? Is there anything else I might try to see if it auto-calibrates?
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The 19.5" wheels are not an option on the 2013 F-450, unless you order a Chassis Cab. I'm certain many have made this change. My question is can the dealership make the necessary changes so the speedometer correctly measures the vehicle speed?
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Several years ago, a tree limb fell on out Dodge Neon, breaking the windshield. At that time, the dash gauges worked fine, and continued to for at least a year. Then, every once in a while, the speedometer would just go dead. no mph reading, and the odometer would not register either. over the last several years, it has become more prevalent, and is not not working more than it is. the other gauges are also intermittently failing to read as well. the scariest thing, is when it does come back, the air bag light comes on for about 5 seconds! which to me means there is a possibility that if we were in an accident, they might not work at all.
I believe the dash circuit board is cracked, and this is why this is happening. If the actual dash has to come out of the car, which is what i have feared all this time, it will have to stay that way until we get rid of the car. i can not lay on my head (upside down with my head under the dash) for hours on end trying to find and remove all 40 bolts or plastic clips or darts, or what ever they use these days to hold a dash assembly in. How to replace that board (gauges)? Can it be done without removing the dash? i have a Haynes service manual for it, but we all know how bad those are. I would like to repair this, but i can not afford dealers labor rates, and my luck with home grown shops has been poor at best.
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Does the Touareg have the 10% error in speedometer reading like my GTI does?
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I drive a stick Ford Focus 2002 and when I accelerate, the car hesitates/bogs down. This happens more when it is going up and heavily loaded. It happens more on low RPM but it also happens on high RPM. I can accelerate on idle and it does not have any problem. At the same time, I know when this is happening, or about to happen, because the radio volume rises suddenly together with the speedometer needle that goes crazy (up to 150mph) while the car is going at 30mph. The radio volume and speedometer needle settle down after the spurt.
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Is there a way with VCDS to adjust the speedometer reading to match my GPS? The reason I am asking is that I have the wrong winter tire size on my car (205-55-R16) and the difference is 15km/hr more the I really drive.
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Just purchased a 2008 2.0T Passat wagon, lux version. I believe my speedometer may be reading high by about 4 mph. I seem not to be keeping up with most of the traffic (assuming they are driving close to the posted speed limit). Not sure how to really check this out, but assuming the mile markers on the interstate are accurately spaced one mile apart, at 60 mph it should take me 60 seconds to cover the distance and at 70 mph it should take me 50 seconds to cover the distance. If my thinking is correct and upon doing that I find that it takes me about 66 seconds to cover the one mile at an indicated 70 mph on my speedometer
.
Is my thinking correct and/or is there another way to check? Have never been able to find a shop that has calibration equipment so I just resort to this method.
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I have a 2000 F350 4x4 with 7.3L diesel and a manual transmission. While driving home yesterday my gauges (fuel, temp, volts, oil pres) stopped working. Within a couple min the speedometer and the tach also stopped working, but the truck was still running fine. Within a couple miles the engine stopped running, just like I had turned the engine off.
After having it towed home I checked all the fuses, none are blown, but there is no power to fuse #16 (15A, instrument cluster, high beam head lamp). Also in the fuse box under the hood, again, no fuses are blown, but fuse #9 (left head lamp low beam) and #11 (right head lamp low beam) have no power to them.
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My gauges all of a sudden started going around in circles, so I pulled off of the highway and stopped my car put it in park and it made this awful noise, Started it again and put in drive to see if it would go and all it wanted to do i roll back.
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My New (weeks old) 2011 SF GL V6 speedometer reading is way to high. I've confirmed this with my GPS. My last 2 cars were Honda`s - one with a digital speedo (Civic) amd they were both bang on with the GPS.
So, my issue is why is the speedo so far out - 10%. I have to drive 110 km/h for a 100km/h on the GPS. On the positive side - I'll never get a speeding ticket.
But to all of you that claim to drive at 75mph and get 25mpg - I'm guessing your really traveling way slower. What can be done. In this day and age a calibrated speedometer isn't asking for much.
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My speedometer reads accurate only till around 45 mph. The needle begins to float around gently, and the faster I go, the more discrepancy it reads. It may hang a while, floating around 60 and the speedometer app on my phone says I'm going 74.
The speed sensors were replaced for another issue a year and a half ago. The dealership initially wanted me to put a new transmission in it for $3800 after they said the trans was slipping past 45. Then they said something instead about a valve plate (could be wrong vernacular) for $1000 instead of an entire transmission.
When I finally told them that my cruise control is completely erratic, trying to track the needle movements with upshifts and downshifts, they said it's $200 in parts for the drive gears and that they were made with plastic that can wear out.
So I said I would sit on it, since the ideas about the issue seem to vary greatly, and my father set me up to go to a transmission shop to have the car checked out. They had it for two days and changed the fluid out but we can't fix your speedometer issue... take it to the speedometer shop, but btw we think your transmission is fine.
Now, do I take it back to the dealer for the drive gears, or do I take it to another specialist? I have seen people say all it needed were the drive gears replaced and a new sensor. My odometer seems to still be working. There is no issue with my gas gauge.
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We have an intermittent (now more regular) issue on our 2005 SF of the instrument cluster (tachometer, speedometer, gas gauge, temp gauge) sitting at zero - no motion whatsoever. In the summer months, the gauges came on after a while of AC being on, which I thought odd. But it just happened here in October (and the temp is just around 5C/41F) so a temp issue is unlikely. No OBD codes that we know of, all the fuses are fine, and while we did have a PCSV issue earlier this year, it did not seem to affect this particular issue with the gauges.
Threads such as the one below seem to say that it is the speedometer that is wacky... 01 Santa Fe Speedometer Not Working! , and the general solution to the problem/issue is to replace the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) and associated gear mechanism. And on a different thread, Input Output Speed Sensors , it was suggested that the problem could be addressed by changing the input and output sensors.
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