Ford - Focus :: 2001 SE - Brakes Failed When Pulling Out Of Parking Lot
Jun 2, 2012
Friday morning my brakes went out on me. I was pulling out of a parking space and my car was puttering (as if it was going to turn off) then I was pulling out of the parking lot, but when I stepped on the brake pedal, it wouldn't go down! So i put it in reverse ( i was going about 5mph)and circled around and just put in park and turned it off. I didn't even think to use the Ebrake. My son was in the back seat so I just tried to stop it automatically.I've been reading that doing that might have ruined my transmission.
It's a 2001 ford focus SE....
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My girl friend drives a 2000 Ford Focus manual 5 speed but she is hearing a rattle after she lets off the accelerator even in neutral with the parking brake on ?
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My question is what could cause a wheel bearing and CV joint to fail immediately after a clutch replacement and a general inspection?So I brought my 2014 focus with under 50000 miles in due to the normal transmission issues with clutch chatter and hesitation. Also asked them to do a general inspection to come current on my warranty requirements and address a feeling of the car feeling lose into turns sometimes (I thought maybe it is just me getting used to going to summer tires from winter). So they rebuild the clutch and i finally get my car back four days later with a clean bill of health and them unable to recreate the lose sensation in the steering during a test drive.
So fast forward four five days and under 200 miles driven and I had a rapid failure of my front driver side wheel bearing and cv joint. It was fine the day before then after 20 miles of driving it felt like it was about to go. So this is everything I noticed about my car after I got it back:Transmission felt great. No chatter and fast to respond. When I would turn into a parking spot or pull out of one I would sometimes here a clunk (that had never happened before) Drove fine. It rained the day before the failure (not sure if that could contribute) but when I got on the road the next day the wheel went bad very very fast and the rubbing became so severe I limped to the nearest cellphone reception. A 79mile tow later I am back at the dealership who replaced that the wheel bearing and CV. (my car is actually back there right now because they left a bungee cord attached to the coil and it started to make the clicking rubbing noise so I called them to tow it).
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Garage tells me tranny is working well. The problem seems to be worse when engine is cold. When pulling away from a stop, sounds like a toaster is being shaken under the hood with a loss of power...leaving 2nd into 3rd. Are there any other engine parts i should be testing?
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1996 F350 PSD 7.3
Front Dana 60 mono beam
4 x 4
Last week I broke my front right caliper. I replaced the caliper, rotor and pads. Now, when I apply the brakes I pull to the left. I took the truck into my repair shop and let them figure it out. They were unable to repair the truck. They replace the master cylinder, all brake lines, calipers on both sides, brake pads, bearings on both wheels, vehicle alignment, tire balancing and tire rotation. The tires are three months old. Prior to last week i did not have any problems braking or steering. Driving at 60kmh the truck goes straight until i gently brake, it will slightly pull left.
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I took my 2009 F150 XLT 4.6 into the dealership to have front and rear brakes replaced at 77,000 miles. Brakes were down to 3mm. They also did a complete brake flush. They called after the brake job was done and said the ABS system failed and needed to replace ABS module. Given I didn't have any problems with ABS before bringing it into the dealership, what is the chance the brake repair screwed up something with the ABS that they caused?
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I have a 2003 Ford Escape 3.0l V-6. In June while driving to a job interview, my brakes unexpectedly failed. With absolutely no warning, the pedal went straight to the floor. I replaced the master cylinder...problem solved. 5 months later, driving to the gym, after stopping successfully several times with no mushiness in the pedal, at an intersection, the pedal goes straight to the floor...no stopping power.
I can't remember if the brake light came on last time. This time it did. Both times the fluid in the reservoir was full and looked to be relatively clean. Both times there were no apparent leaks in any of the fuel lines, abs module, at the cylinder, etc. I'm no slouch when it comes to car repair. The master cylinder replacement was done correctly, the lines were bled properly.
I have my own theories but I don't like any of them as my car rolls properly at idle, my brakes have not, nor do they currently make any noise or grinding sounds, and the pedal goes all the way to the floor.
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So the other day my wife was pulling out of a parking lot when the car shut off. She then restarted it and sat in the parking lot for a little till she then drove back home.
I have been sick so haven't had much time to figure out whats going on with it. It's not the battery idle problem; I've dealt with that before. So far I have tested the battery and max reading I got was 13 volts.
I'll be uploading a video today to show whats going on with it. [URL] .....
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I was pulling out of a parking lot making a sharp turn when all the sudden I lost my power steering. I have a '94 Ford Ranger manual transmission. It didn't make any sounds. I was going to try to keep adding power steering fluid to it and try to get it home to my mechanic in my hometown - but it drips constant liquid when I drive it down the street (you can see drips) so I don't think that's possible. I've read a lot on here about gear boxes failing, but would this cause it to leak even if the truck wasn't running? (the puddle builds quickly when its just sitting there, engine off). I took it to a mechanic (I don't have tools), and they said they can't say anything for sure until they look around, it could be seals or a new gear box.
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2007 Ford Focus - 70,000 miles
The ABS light went on two weeks after we had the brakes done at Ford. We have not yet had the chance to return there, and I am wondering if the recent brake job played a role in the ABS light issue... there is a youtube video claiming that debris from a brake job could dirty the "tone wheel/ring" and make it difficult for the ABS sensor to read the wheel. True or not?... And is this something I have a chance of dealing with myself?... I prefer to work on vintage cars that have no high tech add-ons... but for the time being, this is the car we have ...
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I have a 2007 Ford Focus and 'bout a month ago, the brakes lost compression when applied. The mechanic replaced the master cylinder and we thought everything was ok. After driving it around we noticed the brakes are less sensitive then before. Prior to this, lightly taping/pressing the brakes would slow the car. Now you must press more firmly and with a bigger stopping distance. Additionally, if you press very hard or very suddenly, it feels like the roughness of the road is transmitted to the foot. It's a bit choppy too and the car won't stop for several seconds. After 2-3 seconds it does stop. This happened three times in two weeks. It's never occurred before. When this happens to my husband, he pumps the brakes to correct it, and when this happens to me, I keep pressing down 'till it works. Could the anti-lock brakes be acting up? We brought it to the mechanic and so far he hasn't found a problem.
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I just got my new 2011 Prius a week ago and still getting used to it. Yesterday I was pulling out of a parking spot in Reverse when the ICE came on and I felt a slight jolt in the transmission when it happened. Is this normal or should I get it checked out?
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I have a 99 Buick LeSabre and it died while I was pulling into a parking lot. It wouldn't start back up. I tried listening for the fuel pump and nothing. It's not priming or making any noise. Once I got it home I replaced the fuel pump relay. Still nothing so then I changed the fuel pump. Still nothing. I'm stumped. I'm going to check all the wires tonight to make sure I got them on right. Is there any other relay or fuse on these cars that I can check?
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2004 RX 330. Steering functions fine but sometimes when I'm parking or pulling out I can hear a little snap,, not like a bad sound but more like a little play in the linkage or something.
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All I did was take wheel off to tap a stud and I saw the inboard pad shim came off. So I removed the shim and reinstalled everything and the wheel is severely pulling to the right. Yesterday I took the caliper off but did not take off hose, cleaned slide pins and lubricated with anti seize. Still pulling to right bad. Don't hear any squealing or grinding. But pass side wheel is definitely hotter than drivers side. One mechanic said he thinks it would be a bad hose before replacing caliper. What could it be?
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In the winter, driving around downtown in Minneapolis can be very... interesting, to say the least. The usual 5 minute trip from the highway exit ramp to the parking garage can take an hour. But hey, it's a job. There's enough stop and go that I can't just put it in park, so I'm riding the brake for most of this hour.
It only happens a couple times a year, but every time we get weather, after about 45 minutes of this, my abs warning light comes on and my abs system stops working. (Finding that out was... unpleasant.)
I pull into the garage, leave my car for the shift, and it's fine on the drive home. Is this normal? What's happening?
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I have a 2009 Ford Focus and have been having a problem with the brakes. When I hit the brakes at any speed there is a feeling of pulsing as I slow down. It is proportional to the speed I am going. It feels like there is an unevenness to the rotor or brake drum that makes one spot on either of those hit the brake pad/shoe more severely than the rest of the pad/shoe and thus I slow down more during that one spot. Maybe the best way to describe the feeling is like this: While the brake pedal is pressed down it feels like I am slowly pulsing the pedal even though the pedal is steadily pressed down. This pulsing feeling slows down as I slow down until I stop. What might cause this?
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I have a 2003 Variant V6, 34,000 miles - I was pulling out of a parking spot and the car had no "power". but eventually it kicked in..then when I got home I noticed that the brake lights stayed lit...no problem, I pulled the fuse so the battery wold not run out...put the fuse back in for the ride to the dealer, but a block out and again no power - depressing the gas pedal had no effect. Could these be related? The cars been at the dealer all day, they have no clue so far. I had the fuel pump replaced under recall...could it be some sort of electrical problem.
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My Superduty has been pulling to the left when I hit the brakes for a few months now. In the past it's done it, like within a year or two after buying it brand-new off the lot, but that was because one brake pad had rusted itself to the bracket and was not doing a darn thing. Once or twice more, it was a stuck caliper pin, which was quite obvious when working on it.
Last year, around August, I replaced the rotors and pads with Advanced Auto parts stuff. Rotors are still great, pads look brand-new, and it wasn't pulling up until the past month or two.
But this most recent pulling has been a problem that I can't find. It's not the pins, it's not the pads, and now I find out, it wasn't the calipers
This past weekend I went so far as to replace the calipers with Napa rebuilt "semi-loaded" calipers (all hardware and pins and bracket, except for the pads) and pressure-bleed the entire system. The old fluid was green, not black, but now that it's been bled, the pedal is a bit firmer than it was.
I wasn't going to replace the calipers without checking them first, but I broke both bleed nipples off and I wasn't about to wrestle with an easy-out and try to get the darn things out. Per side, rebuilt caliper with hardware and bracket, can't go wrong. (Checking the calipers would have involved using a C-clamp to compress the caliper slightly, then backing off the C-clamp - if the pistons come back out a slight degree, they are free and the seals are still "grabby" and resilient).
While bleeding it, I saw a piece of black crud (rubber?) about 2-3mm in size come out of the left side. Didn't think much of it, figured it was just built up crud from somewhere.
Today, the first commute after doing the calipers and bleeding, it's still pulling just like it was before the calipers. However, I did notice at one point when I hit them, they pulled like they normally do, but seemed to go straight a few seconds into it. It does seem that if I keep my foot on the brake, the pulling is much less after the initial second or two, but if I stab them again, it pulls like crazy.
And by "pull" I mean the steering wheel actually moves in my hand. So with that in mind, it's actually a front-brake problem. If it was the rears, the wheel wouldn't pull like it does, and if it was something loose in the suspension, I would have found it already after checking everything, and it again, wouldn't pull the steering wheel like that.
Now, given that black piece of whatever that came out of the left side, I'm beginning to wonder... if it was rubber from the inside of the hose.
Is the right brake hose causing the pulling because it's coming apart just like the left one might be?
I've gone over and over this in my head this morning, and thought about the ABS unit possibly dumping pressure from the right because of a leaky valve (see side note below), but I would think that once the pedal stab was over, it would even out and not pull at all.
However, this thing pulls left quite a bit, even after the pedal has been held down for quite some time. Usually. Sometimes, it subsides and doesn't pull. But mostly it does no matter what I do, keep pressure on the pedal, let up and reapply, whatever.
Does this really sound like a bad hose? It's intermittent, but usually pulls like 90% of the time.
Side note: The ABS unit in my truck, and most Fords of the time (not sure about later than 2004 or so) is a Kelsey-Hayes three-channel unit like this:
Kelsey-Hayes RWAL Antilock Brakes
It's the same system found in Chevy Suburbans and light-trucks, which I have worked on before and know a bit about.
In my case, it can't be a dump valve leaking, because it would effect pedal-height and not PULL to one side like it does. The only way that could happen is if the isolation valve was closed, AND the dump valve were leaking at the same time.
I haven't, however, gotten the ABS to activate just to see if it changes anything. On my way home tonight I will see if I can find some dirt or sand and get it going
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I recently changed the front pads and rotors on my 2002 Ford Ranger 2wd and I'm having some troubles now. Occasionally when I'm pulling up to stop lights toward the end of my braking i can feel them cut out and the ABS kicks on. It's a very intermittent problem, and it only happens at low speeds. When I try to induce the fault it never happens, it only seems to after an extended period of braking going less than 10 mph. I'm very confused, and I was thinking about changing out my calipers unless know what might be happening.
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So I was pulling out of the parking lot at work in first gear going about 10mph when I heard a loud clang and lost power to the wheels, I just had the car towed home and its dark out so i haven't gotten a chance to really take a good look.
My question is, how did this happen? the car is lowered on coils. I also Installed a B&M short shiftier about 3 weeks ago, i doubt it but could that have anything to do with this?
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