Ford - Focus :: 2001 - Brake Pedal Feels Hard / Transmission Hard To Shift From 1st To 2nd Gear
Jul 24, 2012
Could my brake issue be related to my transmission problem? Neither are constant. Brake problem= sometimes the brake pedal feels hard, like there's no power brakes (I drove a car once. ..looong time ago. .. that had no power brakes or steering) but it will kick in after a short distance. Transmission prob= seemingly unrelated, is a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. This has happened maybe a 1/2 dozen times, the first time and mostly when in heavy commute traffic and when going between 1st and 2nd gear because of the slow commute speed, but also at other times when not in lengthy slow commutes. When it doesn't shift, the odometer doesn't work (shows only dashes) and an engine light comes on (the sprocket/gear looking one). Usually the transmission will eventually shift and the light goes off.
I read that the brake problem might be a vacuum hose problem? Something about a booster? Is this dangerous? or is it like having a car w/ no power brakes? Going to have my transmission looked at this week. Read on another site about dropping valve seats on this year car. If there's a major transmission problem, I'm wondering if it's worth fixing? I changed, timing belt, water pump, front and rears brakes, tires. 143,000 miles.
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I have a 2005 Ford Focus Man Trans, and am having issues getting it into first gear and into reverse. This happens most often when the car is cold. I am kind of wondering what it may mean before I take it in to have the issue fixed. It has 65 thou miles on it and I would think that I don't need a new trans already?
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I get a hard shift into second gear, it jerks into 2nd but not all the time. I only notice it after driving on the freeway for several miles. It has 60,000 original miles. Service Engine Soon light come on after the hard shifts with a transmission fault code. I reset the Engine light and let it set 20 or so minutes and it shifts like new.
1997 CHEVROLET TRUCK S10 2WD
6 Cylinders 262 X 4.3L SFI
Automatic
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2000 Ranger 4R44e transmission.Hard shift from 2-3 gear and when i run about 35-40 mph and brake then acelerate it downshifts hard . Whats wrong with it?
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Well I've been towing for almost 150,000 miles with a 2012 6.7 Lariat 4 wheel drive. Things have been going pretty well with the truck. I noticed some sluggish and indecisive type shifts early on but now I'm worried. I depend on this truck for pulling a horse trailer all over the country and Canada. Just recently I've been getting a hard shift or a thump or a clunk when shifting up or down in to second gear. I'm at about 152,000 miles and did a hot flush with LV ATF at about 148,000 miles. Should I worry or keep running?
I have a 97' PSD I'm thinking of giving a nice paint job and a flat bed but am reluctant to do so due to financial concerns and the fact that some folks may not want to see me pull up in an old truck no matter how nice it looks. My tranny temps have been stating under 200F and I really keep an eye on the temps when running up and down the hills while towing. The trailer is a 35' Gooseneck with a max GVRW or 14,000 pounds. Should I wait for the tranny to grenade and then drop in a built tranny and if so who's building these tranny's stronger than stock? Long time no see but this site has always been my go to for all my Ford truck questions, upgrades, etc.
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At 37 mph and transmission shifts to 5th gear a violent shift occurs. The fist time I thought that I had hit a cement block! It only happens in triptonic or if I leave the shift lever in 4th gear and exceed 55Mph. My local VW dealer said a new Transmission would cure it.
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I have a 2010 accent blue model with stick shift. been fine for 50k miles. Lately i have noticed an issue where i am in first gear and then when i push clutch in to go into second, the lever won't budge. it does eventually go in but it just isn't like it used to be. it happens say about 25% of the time. Since at higher rpms it won't do it but normal rpms it will.
Also, i just had a new short block installed, perhaps something is binding? If I sit in the car, stopped, i can shift into and out of all the gears perfectly. Maybe my 1st gear synchros are going?
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My Santa Fe 2001 model V6 4X4 Automatic shift gears down hard from 3rd in to 2nd. I checked transmission oil and its light brown. Should I drain and refill or not worth it.
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My Toyota corolla 2011 started to shift a bit hard from first gear to second gear and sometimes it feels a bit like choking since November of last year after I started to commute about 38 miles to work. It happens when I am taking off and going straight and it doesn't happen when I am turning left or right. I have taken it to the dealer once, they reset the transmission computer, but it still felt the same and the way the other gears shift felt a bit differently.
I have seen a similar complaint about the same issue of gear shift from first to second in the NHTSA website and another forum with the same issue with a 2009 corolla with a seemingly loose motor mount.
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I have a 2002 Santa Fe V6 2.7 liter, FWD, 215,000+ miles. When it shifts from 2nd to 3rd the whole vehicle jerks. It does not do this on the other gears. I took it by a transmission place for a free scan and they said the transmission is fine.
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I have a 2004 manual transmission Santa Fe. I've maintained it very well since new.
About 6 months ago I noticed it was getting difficult to manually shift gears. It wasn't grinding or anything, just "hard" to get it to go into the various gears while driving. Before, I could shift into any gear with just 2 fingers on the gearshift and it was smooth as silk.
I went in and had the gear oil changed. This was something I didn't even know needed to be changed and the guy said most people never do. They showed me the oil they took out and it looked more like black water than oil and smelled kinda funky. They changed the gear oil out, but still no difference, and in fact it's getting worse.
The best way to describe it is the only way I can really shift gears now is to find that "sweet spot speed" where the gears will change on their own (so to speak). I find it particularly difficult going from 1st to 2nd, such as when starting from a stop light. People almost rear-end me now as it takes me longer to get it into 2nd gear.
Once in gear it runs perfectly, no problems. The clutch seems to be working normally, except perhaps while stopped in 1st gear, it sometime seems to jerk a bit, and I find this most noticeable if I'm stuck in very slow moving heavy traffic with the constant stopping and then moving forward slightly and such.
It is almost impossible to "gear down" into a lower gear unless I'm at the speed where it would normally go into that lower gear on it's own. The best way to describe it is how it is possible to drive a standard transmission car WITHOUT a clutch if you shift at just the right time/speed. But I DO use my clutch, but if I'm not close to "that speed" it's really, really difficult to force it into another gear, and the few times I do try and force it, I'll often get a bit of grinding.
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01 jetta vr6 5 speed. Alright so earlier today I pulled out the driveway. (Hard) was in 1st gear around 3 or 4 grand and I stomped it. Got to 6 grand and hit 2nd. Took 2nd to 6 grand and let of around 60 mph. After that I short shifted into 3rd, 4th, then 5th. I noticed going into fith was hard. Had kinda rev match to get it. I stayed in 5th till I got to my destination roughly 4 miles. When I came back out to leave I had a hell of a time getting it into reverse. On my way home it was extremely hard to shift and now when the car is running I cant get it into any gear. This is what I did.
Car shifts fine with car off.
Car will not shift with engine running.
When started in gear with clutch depressed I can still let the clutch out and stall the car.
When starting car while in gear with the clutch NOT DEPRESSED the car jumps forward.
I can figure it out ove tried re adjusting the linkage. Nothing.
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I have a 2001 F-350 Diesel 4x4 crew cab 8ft bed dually 7.3 diesel 6 speed. The issue is that the parking brake pedal is extremely hard to push. One day it pushed down and ratcheted into a locked position as normal and the next day I couldn't push it more than an inch down. I have rear disc brakes with internal drums in the rotors for the parking brake assembly. I replaced the shoes and hardware (which were fine) and I still have the same issue. I removed the front single cable from where it splits into the two rear ones and the foot pedal depresses smoothly and with the touch of a finger with no load on it. What else is it? The only other thing is one of the rear cables unless I am missing something?
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I have a 2001 Elantra GLS, 160,000 miles. These two codes come up on ny diagnostic tool.
P0422
Main catalyst efficiency below threshold (bank 1)
No symptoms at all
P1529
Customer snapshot request
Symptoms
Car will shift hard into third gear and stay there without shifting at all regardless of speed. Shutting the car off and restarting will sometimes fix, but only temporary. When car runs normal, it runs fine and shifts good. At speeds around 40 it seems to kick back and forth between 3rd and overdrive as if it can't decide where to be. Tried replacing speed sensor, but new sensor did not fix problem.
Fuel Sys 1 CL
Fuel Sys 2 NA
Calc Load 18.4
ECT 201
STFT B1 0.0
LTFT B1 -2.3
MAP 8.6
Eng RPM 3351
Veh Speed 22
EV flashing
O flashing
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What could be the issue at hand here. I just recently bought a 337 edition gti and I absolutely love it. But the guy I bought it from says that it was chipped but he doesn't know what brand tune it is. But the problem, like the title suggests, is that in first gear the car pulls incredibly hard but as soon as I shift into second I lose all my momentum and it just feels sluggish.everyone that I've seen on these threads have said that I should be getting the most power I'm second and third gear. Is this tune just not a good one? Could there be something more?
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe 3.5l FWD 155k miles. Car has been incredibly trouble free until now. When the transmission up-shifts from 2nd to 3rd there is a hard jolt. All other up-shift and down-shift points work smooth. Occasionally will shift smooth just after I start the car or if I am accelerating hard. The rough shift happens whether I am in D or use the "manual" shift control. This coincidentally(?) started just about the time I had a battery die hard and an O2 sensor fail. Both have been replaced. Changed the AT fluid and no difference. No engine codes, but I think the AT codes don't show there? What might be going on? Any chance the battery failure had anything to do with this? Seems odd that battery, O2 sensor and transmission all start acting up at the same time.
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I have a problem with my 2003 Ford Focus ZTS. It has a 2.0L ZETEC engine and is automatic. I recently replaced the Starter, Alternator, and battery cable because the car was having some current issues. All parts are brand new, non-refurbished. The car cranks fine but is now sputtering. When I drive it, it seems like it has a hard time switching out of first gear and and will hit 3-3500 RPM before the gear shifts.
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I have been having an issue with my 4-5 gear shift under hard acceleration and know that a rebuild is due soon but I was wondering if any high performance kit available with all the clutches and friction discs needed to rebuild.
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This is on my 7.3PSD. I've observed that the 1-2 gear shift drops about 1,000 RPMs and takes a good half second or longer to do so when given a lot of accelerator pedal input. And then the 2-3 shift is a very quick and harsh shift.
If I am accelerating gently the 2-3 shift is as unnoticeable as the 1-2 shift is quick. Is the slow 1-2 shift causing the trans to protect itself and affecting the 2-3 shift? And if so, what do I do to resolve all of this? I changed the trans fluid a week ago and there is no change.
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I noticed a pulsating feeling when I applied the brakes in my 2001 Ford Focus. I figure that it might be warped rotors, but after driving the car for a while, it seems to have dissipated. The car was sitting around for a few weeks. I read that it could just be rust buildup, but I feel that would require more than a few weeks of sitting around. Is there any way to check for myself, short of taking off the rotor?
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My 97 Taurus shifts hard going into 2nd gear only. It started as just a cold problem but now does it all the time and there are no computer codes stored.
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