Ford - Focus :: 2000 SE - Instrument Panel Brake Light On
Sep 23, 2013
A few weeks ago the dash panel brake light would light up when I made right turns. After the car finished turning and went straight forward the light would stay on for 2 or 3 seconds, then flicker and finally go off. This would happen when my foot was not touching the brake pedal. Now the brake light comes on occasionally when the car is going straight forward and sometimes when I apply the brakes. I do not see any signs of bake fluid leakage. The brakes are working properly and show no signs of diminished effectiveness. What could be the problem? 2000 Ford Focus Se DOHC.....
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The instrument panel in my 2002 Hyundai Accent GSI quit working. I pulled the cluster and both bulbs were working (replaced them anyway). All lights and fuses work, including the dimmer. All I can see at night is the speedometer reading, lit by these two bulbs.
There are two holes, covered over, for two other bulbs. They were never installed! Hyundai dealer has no idea on what could be wrong. I can't see how the white part could have been backlit without these two bulbs. Doesn't make sense.
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2004 screw 5.4 xlt
I was driving home and heard a loud rat tat tat tat . I thought I might have run over something. I slowed down and the noise quit, pulled over, checked things out, nothing apparent. I was only a couple miles from home so Started driving again and the ABS light came on, then went off. Another indicator came on and went off... then the entire instrument cluster died except for the airbag light, no tach, speedo. Truck still drove fine. I stopped in the driveway shut her off and then tried to restart...no go. Kind of like a dead battery, tried to turn over.
Had a few things to take care of b4 getting back to the truck. Went out and I hear a continuous click, click, click back by the fuel cap (fuel pump)? ......but the truck is OFF no key in ignition. I disconnected the battery and the noise quit. Battery is showing 12 volts. I stuck the charger on. These symptoms sound like anything even possible???????
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Instrument panel on Altima shuts down or freezes up erratically? There is no conditions I have found when this happens consistently. Typically after leaving the car overnight in the drive next time around everything works properly. I have checked fuses in the car and under the hood. What causes this?
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When I turn on my headlight the instrument panel will intermittently not light up. Is this a known problem for this concern and what is the remedy for this problem?
And with the HVAC, when I turn the HVAC to max a/c (even though is won't be until spring or summer) I have problems with the a/c wanting to turn off at times almost like automatic climate control, but it isn't that.
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I have a 2002 Accent GS. Their is fuel flow out of the fuel filter. I've changed out the spark plugs and sprayed starting fluid into the cylinders, and still will not start. So there is no electricity to the spark plugs. Replaced all of the ECU fuses in the engine compartment and under the dash, and still will not start.
Don't think it is the coil pack, because I can't imagine both coils failing at same time. Think it is a relay or sensor. Which relay or sensor would also prevent power from going to the instrument panel gauges but still allow the instrument panel warning lights? Main relay? Crankshaft position sensor? Throttle position sensor?
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I just finished replacing the instrument panel light bulbs on my 1997 Ranger XL, 2.3L, 2WD pickup. I wanted to share how I did this. First of all, if you never have done this before, go slow and take your time removing the dash panels as they are plastic molding and break easily. Allow yourself about an hour to complete the task. You will need smaller sized hand sockets to remove the screws. The very first thing you should do is remove the negative battery cable from the battery. This way you will not risk shorting out anything electrical as well as possibly triggering the airbag in the steering wheel column.
The key piece in starting the process is to remove the radio first and then central console panel that houses the radio. It pops out very easily by gently prying it out in the four corners. Once you get that piece out remove the screws the support the lower knee panel. In order to get that piece off you will have to remove the two screws the hold the hood release lever in place. Get under the dashboard and look up as you lay looking upward near the brake pedal. Pull the hood release lever and you will see the two gold screws. Remove them. This will free up the panel on the under side. The top side of the panel will pop out if you pry it gently on the top two corners.
Next, you will see a metal panel underneath the knee panel. Remove this metal panel as well. Now you will be able to remove the instrument cluster panel piece. There are some visible screws holding this in place, remove them and gently pry the cluster panel out. Once the cluster panel cover is out you will have to actually remove the gauge cluster itself by removing the the four screw bolts that secure it in place. After the screws are out, gently work it out of the dash slowly as you will need to disconnect three electric plug harnesses in the back.
After it is unplugged and out, on the backside of the instrument cluster you will see some round, black colored thumb screw bulb housings that house the light bulb. Just twist them and turn making sure to go in the right direction. Feel it out for the direction, I cannot remember which way it turns. The bulb housings are labeled "ILL" on the circuit overlay. I recommend you replace all the bulbs as you might not want to have to do this again in the near future. Once all the bulbs are tightly seated and installed just reverse the above process for installation. This is a fairly easy job and like I said it takes about an hour. Make sure you test the lights after finishing.
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I have a 2012 Ford F 450 turbo diesel dual wheel truck,my problem is an engine light came up on the instrument panel so i hooked up my scangauge and found the code P20BA I went further into the diagnostics of the scangauge and found nothing,i cleared the code and drove down the road and the light came back on could the sensor be faulty and if so does any body know where the sensor is located.
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I got into my wife's 2012 Camry LE and noticed the air bag light in the instrument panel is on solid.
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2007 accent GS check engine light will not come on the instrument panel. Showing a 650 code. What is wrong?
I bought the car a year ago. No check engine light? Could someone have dismantled the light?
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I have problems with my SF 2002. When i turn on my headlights, the instruments panel (odometer, shifts indicator and others) has no lights. Turning off them, the shift indicator lights again.
I have notice that when days ago, i have changed my radio the problem began. Maybe the problem is related with this.
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I have a 2007 sonata gls with 2.4l engine. The airbag light on instrument panel stays on. A code b1102 has been stored. The code description is low voltage. I've been told its a bad srs module under center console.
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I've had a base model 07 Santa Fe for 4 yrs and I know darned well that the when the car is running, even with headlights off (as in daytime), that the gauges in the instrument panel light up, and the brightness can be controlled by rolling the dimmer switch (reostat) up or down. Now that it isn't working, after dealer replaced something nearby on a recall, they're trying to tell me that the gauges only light up when the parking or headlights are turned on.
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Noticed the lights on instrument panel dimming as you accelerate? I'm talking about the very top of the instrument panel located above the speedometer. I'm driving home from work last night and as I accelerate I notice the blue tint light at the top of the instrument panel dims... let off the accelerator and the light brightens back up... switched the car over to "sport" and give it the gas... light remains constant, no dimming what so ever... switched back to "normal".. give it a little gas and the blue light at the top of the panel dims.... car seems to be running absolutely fine, no issues that I'm aware of... but I've never noticed this before.... and curious as to why it only dims when the car is in " normal ", but not when it's in "sport" mode and the light on the dash is red....
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I have a 1996 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2L V6 with 114,000 miles. Last night when I turned on my headlights, the left half of my instrument panel did not light up. This includes the tachometer, voltmeter, and engine coolant temperature gauge. These gauges are working properly; they are just not lighting up. The rest of the gauges on the instrument cluster are working correctly; only the left half is not lighting up. Could this mean that an instrument cluster light bulb has gone out? If so, any directions and information on replacing that light bulb.
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When I am at a full stop, such as waiting at a stoplight, and I press hard on the brake pedal, the stability control light flashes on the instrument panel.
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Is there any way to turn off the little green light bulb icon in the instrument panel? I run my dash light at minimum brightness and that little light bugs me.
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Last night, while my wife was driving, the battery light on her instrument panel started flashing. This morning the battery light came back on when she started the car. As she was driving on the highway, the ABS light, the stability light, and couple other lights came on, plus her she was losing power to her wheels. She said it then felt like the car was towing a heavy object and that there was no power going to the wheels or any other part of the car. She was able to drive it a few miles to a parking lot, where it died.
When she tried to restart it, she heard a clicking sound, but had no power and the engine was not turning over. She could not remote lock the doors because the all power was gone.
The tow truck driver tested the car and said the battery is fine, but that the alternator was dead. She had it towed to the dealer, who also says it is the alternator that is the problem.
This all occurred after we had a previous, and resolved issue, to the instrument panel (including the light around the cigarette lighter) and the taillights going out intermittently. The dealer disconnected the electrical connection to the towing package and the lights have stayed on since.
Seems odd to have an alternator go on a two-year old vehicle (we bought it new in Jan 2011). Could it actually be the alternator or something else?
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My cars fuel system seems to have a problem, the check engine light came on, the loose fuel cap light has stayed on (caps been replaced) light continues. It revs high like going to 4 on the tach when I'm only going 35 so I try to accelerate slowly, when passing that's a problem, I suspect it's in the vacuum system. One mechanic told me it's nothing another, said he'd have to do a smoke test to discover the problem. It leaks gas if I only go a click over full, and the gas mileage isn't even the 25 mpg? Just wondering what it might be?
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The brake light in my instrument cluster on my 1997 F150 won't come on. I have put in 2 new bulbs.
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03 F250 Instrument panel does not work. Have checked all fuses with a meter. Have already fixed broken wires from the OD button on shifter handle. and also the alternator is not charging. I need wiring diagram that shows the wires coming out the back of the fuse box so I can see if the fuse holder is burned out......
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