Ford - Fiesta :: Oil Light Comes On When Stopped / Engine Seemingly Shut Off
May 13, 2016
I have a 2011 Ford Fiesta with a little over 90k
Last week I had just gotten gas, i was about to turn out of the gas station when I stepped on the gas the car moved forward slightly before the oil light popped on and the engine seemingly shut off. I put the car in park, turn the engine off and started it up. It turned on just fine and drove like normal as I headed home, first thing the next morning I went to get my oil changed as I was overdue. I was definitely low and my oil(5w30) was changed.
The problem did not repeat itself until 4 days later while out running errands. It happened again twice today...once while again turning out of a parking lot and also while about to turn at a light.
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As I was driving home last night, and my 2010 Ford Fusion shut down. I was stopped at a stop light, and when the light changed I accelerated but nothing happened. On my dash board the oil light and battery light were on. I turned the car officially off, and it restarted. This has never happened before. I have about 38,000 miles plus. I am in sales and drive the car a lot during the week. What does this mean, and should I be concerned?
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I have a ford fiesta that first of all started off stuttering/loss of power and now wont stay running when the engine is cold ...... 1.4 54 plate ....
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As I was driving today, I flipped the fan on in my Saturn to clear the windshield. Shortly after I did that, my radio shut down, and wipers slowed down. Car still ran. After stopping for awhile, I began to head home, stopped at a red light, and all electrical shut down as soon as I turned on my turn signal. Wipers, lights, etc. Car still ran, so I went to the nearest parking lot. Engine started running rough when I opened the door, then it quit & would not re-start. We just replaced the battery (original) in December & I am thinking this might be the alternator? My car has never given me one bit of trouble (except for the dead battery) until now.
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I have a Prius PIP. When warmed up after driving several miles, the engine does not shut off when stopped . This happens in the ECO mode. Any solutions?
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Was in town stopped at a traffic light when my 2003 Santa Fe just shut off. No warning, started right back up again, no CEL, no DTCs. Scary. I'm happy it happened with me driving the car instead of my daughter driving. Also happy it didn't happen on the highway.
I've had hard starting issues for a while now. Replaced crank sensor, it's fine for a few starts, then goes back to hard starting, but I hadn't had a problem in a few weeks.
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My Gen 2 2006 Prius engine works continuously and does not shut down even when car is stopped and parked. It shuts down after pressing power button. Problem started after I changed oxygen sensor and then car was reset by computer, could these actions cause the problem? What kind of problem is that and how to fix it...
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2000 Ford ZX2 2.0 ....I've got approx. 79,350 miles on this car. I'm the original owner. The "Service Engine Soon" light came on. I took the the car to an Advanced Auto Parts store, they hooked up their handheld computer to the car and told me "it might be an oxygen sensor or poor fuel octane", he suggested adding an octane booster and see if the light stays off. I did that,but two days later it came back on, the idle seems a little ruff when stopped at a light.
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I have 2013 ford fiesta and the fan wasn't turning on!? It sounded like it wanted to and this is the first time I'm having problems with it. It was -23 out yesterday so that could b it but it's above 0 now and still not turning on?
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It's a Ford Freestar 2006, with 73,000 miles. We had to have the catalytic converter replaced within the first year we had it at no cost to us do to a solid engine light that we immediately took care of. The original was found to be defective. The only symptom it had was it would run rough at around 40-45miler per hour. After the converter was replaced it ran fine w no issues. The in Dec of 2014 it came back on after I had been driving for over 30mi and then idulling for 20min in a school line. I called the shop immediately and took it in the next business day...I didn't drive it at all that weekend. The mechanic checked it out and found nothing wrong with it.
Our best guess was I had let the gas run down to low (first time ever I had driven w it's the idot light on). They did an oil change and still everything checked out ok. During the transmission fluid check they told me I should hear the transmission fluid flushed and replaced in the near future but it wasn't needed right away. The van has done fine until this last week. We've had a lot of rain and fog...my husband ran it for a few days and said it did fine. Then this morning I took my husband to his truck...we had been driving for 40min with speeds up to 50mph.I had idyldeld for about 15min while he loaded his truck with no rough running. NO ISSUES. It was raining and very foggy!!! After I dropped him off and went back the exact same way, about 10min later and going about 50mph suddenly the check engine light started to blink.
I wasn't in a safe place to pull over, so I slowed down, put my hazards on, and vegan praying. I was going to try and get to the Sheetz which was about a 1/4 mile ahead of me. It blinked for 3min and it was off. The van never ran rough, jerked, shook, or anything. I Drove it further to church and asked for one of the guys to check it out. NO CODE!!! Said to keep an eye on it and call the er mechanic on Mon morning. Keep it to speeds under 40. Is it truly safe to drive to church in the morning and take the kids to school????? Was it a false code??? Is it the transmission???? I've never had a van this messed up!
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Owned care for just 1 year. Always seemed to "search" for 2nd gear, now "stammers" and "stutters" into 2nd and starting to do same into 3rd. Dealer says that care "needs to get to know me and how I drive." I say: it must know me by now, so assume it just doesn't like me? Have heard horror stories about being abandoned, etc. My question: do I continue to try to get dealer to fix? or just trade car.
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I have a 2011 Ford Fiesta and yesterday morning I went to start it and the check engine light came on. When I tried to shift into reverse, the gear lever moved but the gear wouldn't engage. None of the other gears worked either. I turned the car off and back on again, and it was fine (the check engine stayed on, though). I have to repeat this process every time I start the car, and this afternoon it took three tries. This a low-mileage car: I bought it brand new a little over 4 years ago, and it's barely over 20,000 miles. I have an appointment scheduled with the dealership, but is this something that's going to cost me a lot of money or is it just a computer issue? One other detail: it was very very cold the night before the issue started (about -10 degrees).
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This may be an old question: is it beneficial to shift into neutral while coming to a stop in an automatic transmission? But, my new Ford Fiesta has a PowerShift 6-speed transmission that behaves differently from a standard automatic. According to Ford, it's "like two 3-speed manual transmissions put together, with the dual clutch and shifting components controlled electronically."
Since the PowerShift is really a computer-controlled manual transmission (without a fluid torque converter), it's actually in neutral when I'm stopped and the shifter is in Drive position. I can feel it disengage as I come to a stop. However if I try coasting to a stop uphill, the engine still pulls the car upward at low speed without my foot on the accelerator. So the computer has to judge when to activate the clutch.
The issue is, I tend to apply the brakes lighter than average and decrease speed at a slower rate to come to a stop. So I think I might be confusing the computer, working against the engine before it wants to disengage the clutch, whereas most people would come to a stop more abruptly and the shifting action would have no problem. This is why I shift into neutral early in my slow-down phase, so the engine doesn't have a chance of pushing the brakes.
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Our 2011 Fiesta wouldn't start, key in the ignition and all the interior lights would come up on dash and interior. Friend of mine said, "sounds like a relay", came over and he swapped the low beam relay to the starter relay (said they where the same), car started just fine.
We put the bad relay in the glovebox, and planned to run to the auto store today. Except today it won't start in the exact same way it wouldn't start yesterday. Do i have 2 bad relay's in 2 days? Or as i suspect is this is a sign of a bigger issue?
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So I just started leasing a 2011 Ford Fiesta, with an automatic transmission, which as I'm told is actually an automated manual. In any case, from day one the car has had a terrible rattle coming from the driver's side of the vehicle, which occurs essentially when going up hills, starting from a stop, and basically between shifting.
I looked it up online, and found some articles talking about Ford replacing transmissions, and some other similar complaints. When I took it in to the dealer, since I felt that it's ridiculous that a brand new car should have any rattle at all, they said they had to update the software for the transmission, and that may work. Now, over a month later, it still rattles quite a bit.
My question is, how normal is this? Is there any information about the Fiesta's transmission or other parts that say it rattles, but that it's not something to worry about? I was told at the dealership that due to the type of transmission it is, it would rattle occasionally, and that it should improve as the computer learns my driving style. I just think it's absurd that I should hear such a noise, which is clearly not what I would call normal engine noise.
I have to note that this is also only my second car, and I have had very little experience driving American cars, since most of my life I've driven exclusively Japanese cars. I don't know if it is just normal engine noise for a Fiesta, or if it's something to bug the dealership to get fixed while it's still under warranty.
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2005 F-250, Diesel, 105K miles, all stock, fuel and oil filters changed in May, about 4000 miles ago.
three times in the last 4 days the truck has seemingly run out of fuel. Got a full tank about a week ago, at the same place I always go, so I doubt it is bad fuel. It ran thru a 1/4 tank with no problems.
4 days ago, it wouldn't start. It just didn't seem like it was getting fuel. It sat for several hours and then ran fine for about 15 minutes and then slowly died out. It wouldn't restart. It sat for 8 hours, and then started again, ran for about 15 minutes and I cut it off.
The next day, it started fine, I drove it 3 miles, cut it off, and an hour later it started but ran for only 10 -15 seconds and it slowly died out just like I was running out of fuel.
I started it this morning and it fired up right away. I let it idle in the driveway for 30 minutes, and it ran fine. I cut it off, went to start it 30 seconds later and it won't fire again.
The backyard mechanic I use for simple stuff wants to replace fuel filters and see what happens. BTW - twice when it wouldn't start, he hooked up his computer and it had no error codes. You can hear the fuel pump running when you turn the key on and the mechanic said he could feel the pump working when he put his hand on it.
Should I let him do that or is there something else we should be looking at?
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I've observed that on a cold start first thing in the morning that there is a noise that appears to come with the depression/release of the clutch. This only occurs the first couple of times and then goes away. My drive is down a hill with speed bumps so the clutch gets used a couple of times shifting down from 3rd to 2nd. After the third/fourth/fifth depression of the clutch the noise goes away.
The car as of now only has 140 miles on it. My daily commute is 2.5 miles each way.
I've emailed the Ford dealer from where I purchased the car, but had no response.
Sounds like the clutch release bearing to me.
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My radio stopped working on my way to work. I heard a loud "pop" of static and then it shut off. I took it to the dealer, which had a hard time fixing it (they had it about 2 weeks), and they replaced all the fuses in the truck and it worked for about a week, but it just stopped again. Not sure what to do.
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I am a grad student hoping my car will hang in there till graduation next year. I have about 227,000 miles on my Honda Accord Wagon and recently the odometer stopped working, S light started flashing, and the check engine light came on. This only happens sometimes, and the check engine light does not always come on when the S light flashes and odometer stops working. I've continued driving the car to see what happens and so far, no problems have come up. I have driven another 1000 miles and am hoping I can just ignore the problem and continue driving the vehicle since I am not in a position to fix it or get a new car.
Recently I passed my California emissions test and she seems to be running smooth. Any thoughts or warnings as to why sometimes these signals happen?
I have to drive with GPS on all the time to know my speed, but other than that I feel OK.
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Long story short, I was taking the door panel off to replace a speaker and the power window button broke somehow. The button doesn't click anymore, it wiggles loosely, and the light inside it stopped working. I cannot figure out what is going on with it. How to fix it and what part I need to replace?
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I have a 02 ex 118,000 on it, not a every day driver, mostly weekend and camper towing. The truck was running great, stopped at a light and the engine started hesitating, the od light was flashing, and then it died.. started right back up no od light, but was still hesitating/missing took it to a local shop, they hooked up a scanner and said that several coils were misfiring. My question, replace all coils? go with oem coils, or aftermakert?
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