Ford - Fiesta :: 2011 - Rattle Which Occurs Essentially When Going Up Hills
Jul 27, 2011
So I just started leasing a 2011 Ford Fiesta, with an automatic transmission, which as I'm told is actually an automated manual. In any case, from day one the car has had a terrible rattle coming from the driver's side of the vehicle, which occurs essentially when going up hills, starting from a stop, and basically between shifting.
I looked it up online, and found some articles talking about Ford replacing transmissions, and some other similar complaints. When I took it in to the dealer, since I felt that it's ridiculous that a brand new car should have any rattle at all, they said they had to update the software for the transmission, and that may work. Now, over a month later, it still rattles quite a bit.
My question is, how normal is this? Is there any information about the Fiesta's transmission or other parts that say it rattles, but that it's not something to worry about? I was told at the dealership that due to the type of transmission it is, it would rattle occasionally, and that it should improve as the computer learns my driving style. I just think it's absurd that I should hear such a noise, which is clearly not what I would call normal engine noise.
I have to note that this is also only my second car, and I have had very little experience driving American cars, since most of my life I've driven exclusively Japanese cars. I don't know if it is just normal engine noise for a Fiesta, or if it's something to bug the dealership to get fixed while it's still under warranty.
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I have a 2011 Ford Fiesta and yesterday morning I went to start it and the check engine light came on. When I tried to shift into reverse, the gear lever moved but the gear wouldn't engage. None of the other gears worked either. I turned the car off and back on again, and it was fine (the check engine stayed on, though). I have to repeat this process every time I start the car, and this afternoon it took three tries. This a low-mileage car: I bought it brand new a little over 4 years ago, and it's barely over 20,000 miles. I have an appointment scheduled with the dealership, but is this something that's going to cost me a lot of money or is it just a computer issue? One other detail: it was very very cold the night before the issue started (about -10 degrees).
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I have a 2004 F150 with 195,000mi. For the last several moths the truck has had a rattle on startup, some days it is barely noticable and only on cold starts, other days it is loud and occurs on every startup. The truck was most recently serviced at the Ford dealer and is filled with Motorcraft 5w-20 syn blend and Motorcraft filter Every change before was either Motorcraft syn blend or Penzoil Platinum (I have always used Motorcraft filters on it) and the noise continued after oil changes so I don't think the drain back valve is the issue. I replaced the cam phasers, timing chains, chain tensioners, and guides about 15,000 miles (2 years) ago and the vct solenoids shortly after that. Here is an audio clip of the noise (I know the truck also has an exhaust manifold leak, I plan on replacing the manifold while im working on it
Is this noise the lash adjusters or have the cam phasers failed again (they were dorman parts)? If it is the lash adjusters, can they be replaced without removing the cams? will failed adjusters be obviously damaged? Should I also replace the cam followers? do i need to replace all 24 at once or can i safely replace only damaged ones or maybe just 1 bank (noise seems to only be coming from the pass side)?
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My F-150 has developed a rattle and vibration at idle that only occurs with the truck in gear and stopped (with the brake depressed.) The noise appears to be coming from the front of the truck, perhaps from the driver's side (though it's difficult to tell while sitting in the cab).
Before I go crawling around underneath with my son holding the brake while the truck is in drive--I would sure like to know where it might be best to point the flashlight.
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I was stopped, turning my steering wheel to do a hard turn to get out of my parked position, as I turned my wheel I heard a THUNK.Then I reversed, got out of park, then went into drive and proceeded to drive to work. I noticed at every light, when I was stopped with my foot on the break, there was a new RATTLE in the vicinity of the front right tire, where I had heard the thunk. The rattle only occurs when the break is applied.
What could this be? The car is still under warranty, do I need to head straight to the dealership and "not pass Go"?
The Honda Jazz (Fit is the name in the US) is a 2010.
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I have an annoying rattle the occurs on rough road surfaces. It comes from the front right wheel area but goes away instantly with light brake pedal pressure. Three trips to the shop have not identified the problem. I just read somewhere that there are "anti-rattle clips" or springs on the brake calipers. Is this right and are these the same as the retaining springs/clips that can be seen from the outside through the slots in the alloys wheels?
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I own a 2011 IS350 RWD. My 4 year warranty just expired. So when it comes to rattles, the 4yr/50k miles no longer cover my rattle concern.
I spent about my 3rd year on a rattle that seems like only occurs when its cold. On cold days/morning, this rattle between the dash will come and it sounds like a bolt is loose, and is moving around or something like that along the lines of that.
So right before my 4th year mark came, I brought it in one last time to hope they can get rid of it. Once I got the car back, it was during winter.. so it still happened, but instead it was a lot louder than before.
Is there anything I can do? Since I've been trying to bring it in to get it checked out for a good year, I'm hoping there's a way for the dealership to honor that one concern I have with my IS.
Other than this rattle, I love my car. The rattle can get pretty bad/annoying especially when you're on a phone call. I bring this issue up during every oil change to get it checked out.
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I've owned my 2015 Base Azera for about 3 weeks. Today I started getting a strange beeping. It's a series of three high pitched identical beeps about every two minutes. It's not real loud and there are no warning lights present. It seems to come from the area of the radio. The beeping occurs even if I'm just sitting in the car with nothing on. It occurs while driving as well. My seat belt is buckled and I made sure that the seat belt warning light goes off when I do so -- so that doesn't seem to be it.
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Getting DTC P0401 on my 2011 with 92K miles. First time I got the CEL, we were on vacation, so I read the code, took a screen shot, then cleared it. Called my normal dealer, setup an appt, verified that they thought the truck was safe to drive. Coming home from vacation, I was pulling the TT in my sig, and noticed significant loss of power on hills that I have pulled many times before that I couldnt even hold 55 on now. Transmission dropped into 4th a couple times, on hills that it would sometimes stay in 6th, or at most drop to 5th.
CEL stayed off for a week , and came back on again. The funny thing is that after a day or 2, the CEL went back out on its own. I read the codes the P0401 is still there as a stored code(I did not clear this time). Around town the truck drives fine, the only thing I noticed was the decrease in power when towing. Truck is at the dealer now. TECH "isn't convinced" yet that there is a problem. He is not finished diagnosing yet, and I am sure that he has specific tests to run, but I am starting to fear that I will be getting the call to come get my truck.
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We have a 2011 Dodge Caravan. There is a strange brake failure problem that only occurs once every 1-2 month. When the problem occurs, there is no resistance when we push the brake (the feeling is like pushing the gas pedal) and the car does not decelerate at all. We have to push the brake multiple times and we could hear the sound like pumping air. After that, the brake works normally again for another 1-2 months. Both my wife and I have experienced this failure multiple times so we are sure this is not the driver' fault.
We brought the car to Dodge dealer multiple times. The first and second time, they said that they could not find any problem. The third time, they replaced the master cylinder for brakes for about $900. One week later, the problem occurred again. This time, they said that the problem was hydraulic control unit and one door of the unit does not work properly. The repair cost will be another $700.
Do you think that this is really the root course of the problem? Is it worth to do another repair? Or we'd better just sell the car?
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I get a double warning beep that only occurs when turning onto a new street. This is a different beep than the lane departure beeps, blind spot monitoring beeps and the forward collision beeps. All of these are uniquely different beeps from sound and number. This double beep that occurs when turning onto a new street does not have any associated warning message that is displayed when it occurs.
2015 Azera Limited
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I have 2013 ford fiesta and the fan wasn't turning on!? It sounded like it wanted to and this is the first time I'm having problems with it. It was -23 out yesterday so that could b it but it's above 0 now and still not turning on?
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Owned care for just 1 year. Always seemed to "search" for 2nd gear, now "stammers" and "stutters" into 2nd and starting to do same into 3rd. Dealer says that care "needs to get to know me and how I drive." I say: it must know me by now, so assume it just doesn't like me? Have heard horror stories about being abandoned, etc. My question: do I continue to try to get dealer to fix? or just trade car.
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This may be an old question: is it beneficial to shift into neutral while coming to a stop in an automatic transmission? But, my new Ford Fiesta has a PowerShift 6-speed transmission that behaves differently from a standard automatic. According to Ford, it's "like two 3-speed manual transmissions put together, with the dual clutch and shifting components controlled electronically."
Since the PowerShift is really a computer-controlled manual transmission (without a fluid torque converter), it's actually in neutral when I'm stopped and the shifter is in Drive position. I can feel it disengage as I come to a stop. However if I try coasting to a stop uphill, the engine still pulls the car upward at low speed without my foot on the accelerator. So the computer has to judge when to activate the clutch.
The issue is, I tend to apply the brakes lighter than average and decrease speed at a slower rate to come to a stop. So I think I might be confusing the computer, working against the engine before it wants to disengage the clutch, whereas most people would come to a stop more abruptly and the shifting action would have no problem. This is why I shift into neutral early in my slow-down phase, so the engine doesn't have a chance of pushing the brakes.
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I have a 2011 Ford Fiesta with a little over 90k
Last week I had just gotten gas, i was about to turn out of the gas station when I stepped on the gas the car moved forward slightly before the oil light popped on and the engine seemingly shut off. I put the car in park, turn the engine off and started it up. It turned on just fine and drove like normal as I headed home, first thing the next morning I went to get my oil changed as I was overdue. I was definitely low and my oil(5w30) was changed.
The problem did not repeat itself until 4 days later while out running errands. It happened again twice today...once while again turning out of a parking lot and also while about to turn at a light.
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Our 2011 Fiesta wouldn't start, key in the ignition and all the interior lights would come up on dash and interior. Friend of mine said, "sounds like a relay", came over and he swapped the low beam relay to the starter relay (said they where the same), car started just fine.
We put the bad relay in the glovebox, and planned to run to the auto store today. Except today it won't start in the exact same way it wouldn't start yesterday. Do i have 2 bad relay's in 2 days? Or as i suspect is this is a sign of a bigger issue?
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I've observed that on a cold start first thing in the morning that there is a noise that appears to come with the depression/release of the clutch. This only occurs the first couple of times and then goes away. My drive is down a hill with speed bumps so the clutch gets used a couple of times shifting down from 3rd to 2nd. After the third/fourth/fifth depression of the clutch the noise goes away.
The car as of now only has 140 miles on it. My daily commute is 2.5 miles each way.
I've emailed the Ford dealer from where I purchased the car, but had no response.
Sounds like the clutch release bearing to me.
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Long story short, I was taking the door panel off to replace a speaker and the power window button broke somehow. The button doesn't click anymore, it wiggles loosely, and the light inside it stopped working. I cannot figure out what is going on with it. How to fix it and what part I need to replace?
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I have a ford fiesta that first of all started off stuttering/loss of power and now wont stay running when the engine is cold ...... 1.4 54 plate ....
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I have a 2011 F250 4X4 Supercab 6.7L that has a highly annoying knock/rattle (you can't hear it) under the front passenger side floor. It feels like someone is tapping on the floor beneath your feet any time you hit a bump or when on a rough road.
Its been in at least 5 times in 2 yrs with cab mount adjustments/shims, cab mount replacements and realignment of the exhaust and brackets. The knock has been there since about day one (I assume anyway, I'm rarely on that side of the cab) and have burned up my 36k warranty, although I'm told i'm good because it is pre-existing.
I keep insisting its in the suspension and keep being told they can't find anything. The mechanic indicated that this is a known problem, but Ford has not put out any service bulletins other than to do the cab mounts and suspension. Has anyone had this problem and found the solution?
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I picked up my 2012 limited Turbo last night but noticed there's a rattle of some sort when I accelerate around 2k rpm, it kind of sounds like a bunch of metals being shaken up. Is this normal? I am also trying to test for the left/right pull, but with all the bad roads here in the city its getting kinda tough.
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