Ford - Fairmont :: 1981 - Fuel Gauge Won't Work?
Sep 19, 2011
I got this 1981 ford fairmont wagon for free. From this elderly lady it was her husband.he bought used in 1983 it had 73,000 on it Iook like it been kept in garage real clean looking the mileage now on it is 34,154. I am guessing she has over 200,000 on her.The problem I am having is the fuel gauge won't move.is there a fuse for it or do you think the sender is bad. I can not find a sender any where...
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I have a 1984 jayco mini 25 with a 7.5(460)in it. It has been in storage for the past 3 years and has not been started. It turns over and I do get spark. The problem is fuel. I am getting power when I jump the oil pressure switch and ground at the wires on the frame rail that go back to the tanks. My gauge does not work on either my front or rear so at first I thought it just may be as simple as a bad ground since the ground is used for fuel level as well as the pump but I wasnt that lucky.The tank switch is working, I can hear it. What are the odds of both fuel pumps being bad?
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My 1981 302 dosent like this 4160 apparently. When i start my truck it shudders on first seconds of startup and whenever i touch the throttle. It runs and operates, but im getting concerned.
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I just bought a 01 Intrigue that the dash lights don't work and the gas gauge stays at fuel when you start the car. It goes to empty when you shut it off.
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I have a 2005 ECHO. Heat does not work. Water pump appears to be fine. The fan works fine. AC works great but I just don't have any heat. When i turn the temperature dial all the way to hot- the fan still blows cold. How I can fix this?
Also, my fuel gauge is not accurate. I will fill the tank and it will still read empty and will slowly go to the right level. Could it be a bad gas cap? Its got 145km.
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I have my aux fuel tank pump hooked to upfitter 3. It has worked perfectly until this week. I started to transfer fuel and the aux fuel gauge and fuel pump both quit. The led on upfitter switch 3 still illuminates, but no fuel pump. I found fuse 9 on passengers kick panel is for upfitter 3. The fuse was good. Is there another fuse somewhere for the circuit I've missed? I can trouble shoot the wiring if necessary, but it's tough to do all behind the left side underbed box and not easy to get to. I've missed something simple before I go further????
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I have finally gotten my 93 Explorer back on the road. Now I have a few things that I am trying to get fixed.
The first things that I need to get repaired is my Fuel Sending Unit replaced. How hard is this and what kind of pitfalls am I looking at.
The problem that I am having is that my fuel gauge is never right. The other day I ran out of gas, but the gauge said full. Go firgure.
Anyway I have been told that the problem is my sending unit in the fuel tank. So is there any advise on this repair.
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I have a 2004 F150 XLT 5.4 L 79,000 miles. Yesterday i was driving home turned a corner and the low fuel light came on and the fuel gauge is well below empty. I had approx 1/2 tank of fuel when it happened. I have since filled tank all the way but the gauge will not move and low fuel light stays on. Everything else is working fine! I have never run the truck low enough on fuel to make the dummy light come on.....
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Today I noticed my fuel gauge giving a low fuel light. I had just fill up 50 miles earlier. Stop fr fuel anyway and could only put 1 3/4 gallons in so the tank is full.
After fueling the gauge went up off the low fuel mark about what I had put in. The only other consideration was the batteries were down and charged last night.
Question. What do I look at first?
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My oil pressure gauge does not work. I was told that it's most likely the sensor. Where would I find this to change it out?
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I recently had my fuel pump replaced in my 2005 GTI ... twice. Both times, the fuel gauge no longer shows a full tank, and doesn't show empty tank correctly. Is there some way to reset the gauge? Is the pump somehow tied to the gauge, or did the mechanics mess the float up when they changed the pump? Sadly I had it repaired somewhere other then the dealer.
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Fuel pump in my Volvo 940 has been replaced twice. Since then, my fuel gauge has not worked right and I have had to pump gas about every 120 miles so that the fuel pump would work right. I would fill the tank, and 120 miles (about 5 gallons) later the fuel gauge would indicate about 1/4 tank of gas left. That's when the fuel pump begins to mis-behave. If I make a sharp turn, it would stopped pumping for about 2-3 seconds. If I continue to drive at that level of gas. I can avoid all these problems by keeping the tank at least "half-full", that is, by pumping every 120 miles. The car was totaled by a hail storm and I bought it back for $84. I like to operate the vehicle for as long as I can, one day at a time.
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We have a 1997 Ford Ranger, live in Minnesota. The heat doesn't work, the electric windows need to be pushed up the last 4 inches, the radio is stuck on loud, the back window latch is broken off, the dash lights only light up the speedometer to 50 mph, the driver's seat doesn't adjust for reclining, and the gas gauge doesn't work. We tend to drive our cars till they die and have been able to live with the above annoyances. However, in dealing with the lack of a gas gauge the person driving it when the odometer hits 200 miles is suppose to fill it up then reset the odometer. That was me this weekend.
Once the gas nozzle clicked off I gave it one last squirt to top it off and gasoline began flowing out under the car. Not dripping, not trickling, not squirting out back at me. Under the truck. Maybe a pint to quart of gas. After wondering if I was going to blow up that part of the county if I started my truck, I figured God wasn't done with me yet, so I started it and drove until I used up about 3 gallons. My husband thinks it is OK to keep the truck because by overfilling it I triggered a valve that actually supposed to do just what it did….release the extra gas.
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Water temperature gauge doesn't work. Assumed the problem was the sensor so bought a new one. Installed it, still nothing registering on the gauge after I know the water is heated up (drove it for 45 minutes, heater blowing hot).
So crossed the ground on the sensor and the gauge shot to the top so gauge is working.
Pulled wiring diagram and that sensor is SUPPOSED to register 79ohms for cold and 8 ohms for hot.. So bought a 10ohm resistor from radio shack and attached the water temp lead to it and the gauge read correctly about 1/8 inch from the H mark on gauge. This confirmed for me that gauge is not at fault.
Next I attached the ohmmeter to the sensor itself, boiled some water, placed the sensor tip into it and it read 86 ohms, in freshly boiled water! So at boiling the sensor isn't anywhere near to tripping the gauge to even start reading cold! So I tested the old sensor that I was replacing and in boiling water it shows 94 ohms?
What am I doing wrong, is there an assumption I am making here in error? I want to conclude the new sensor is bad, but the old sensor reads nearly the same reading under same conditions.So yes maybe they are BOTH bad but that seems to be pushing probability.
If it matters this sensor is the type that is inline from radiator to heater core, not the type that is in the engine block, at some point ford changed their sensor setup but didn't change the schematic drawing. Which doesn't matter the only difference is the one in-line has a ground wire to it rather then grounding off the engine block.
Vehicle is a 97 Ford Ranger with the 2.0 liter engine.
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I was heading to the gas station with one bar on the fuel gauge. When I got there to fill up I had two bars, same Miles To Empty (45). What would cause that?
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This car's windows are not working. 3 of the window motors make a running sound when the levers are pressed, but the window doesn't move. Is this an expensive item to fix? Do you think the window is just off the track? Where is the best place to take it to be fixed?
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Bought this truck, and the engine coolant temp gauge does not work, so I replaced the sender, still don't work.
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1981 f100 2wd 4.9 L6 c6 9" rear w/ front discs and rear drums. went through and fixed all leaks after I got it running. Then I got to steering and suspension. Replaced all tie rods. only thing i reused were adjusting sleeves. Taped off thread protrusion on oem steering parts so i could measure and get the new rod ends in the ballpark. Did a simple shadetree toe adjustment so i could drive it to get it aligned. I should mention i already replaced front rotors and bearings as well. Mic'd the spindles so they're in spec.
I am however running used tires but they balanced out pretty well. all torque application was strictly adhered to by the maintenance manual. made sure tire pressures were up to snuff and greased everything that could be lubed to include kingpins. the kingpins are the only thing i have not rebuilt....but i did check the radial and axial play....nothing out of spec. So I took the truck in for alignment. picked it up and it pulls to the right just as bad as it did when i drove it to the shop. the tech tried to tell me it was just a bad tire and that i needed a new one....of course i knew that was wrong.
Swapped tires from side to side, and magically the truck still pulled to the right. So I've narrowed it down to either the steering box maybe, or just a shade tree alignment tech that doesn't know his fourth point of contact from his elbow. It does not have a steering stabilizer installed, but i would think that shouldn't matter?
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I put a used AOD in my 1981 F 100. The throttle valve seems to be binding up even with the linkage disconnected. There is no pressure on the TV port. The truck will move in all gear positions, but it will not shift.
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Three position switch (off/slow/fast) not working. Bought a new switch and have same problem. The SWITCH OFF position gives very slow wiper movement. The SWITCH SLOW and SWITCH FAST position work OK. The only way I can turn off wipers is to high-center the switch between positions. But it won't stay high-centered very long. Is this a wiper motor problem?
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On a'99 Taurus, the fuel gauge works sometimes. I am quite sure it is the sender unit. Is there possibly a way to replace it without removing the fuel tank. Like thru the trunk floor?
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