I have a 2001 Ford F250 truck -- it was stalling out (which was diagnosed as a faulty fuel pump), so I had the dang thing replaced. But nearly 6 months later, it's randomly stalling out again when I put it in reverse or stop at a light.
View 1 RepliesThe car quit on the road and I diagnosed a bad fuel pump. Multiple tests confirmed the pump had failed. While we were doing the diagnosis, I noticed some strange behavior when monitoring voltage to the pump. While supply voltage was present during cranking, none was applied to the pump when the key was first turned to accessory. I decided to chase one thing at a time and replaced the pump (and fuel filter, since it had been too long since last replacement and I wanted to "cover all bases").
After pump replacement, I opened the coupling in the supply line before the fuel rail to confirm proper operation. When the key was initially turned to accessory (multiple times to prime everything), there was NO fuel flow. When we then cranked it, fuel was present very quickly. After reconnecting the line, a couple of rounds of cranking got the fuel pressure up and the car started and ran perfectly. A quick VAG-COM check showed no codes. I test drove it and then shut it down. Immediately after shut down, I switched the key to accessory and the fuel pump started right up. After doing this 4-5 times with a few minutes pause in between, I pronounced the car "good" and finished up.
This morning, I jumped in, turned the key to accessory and heard......nothing. No fuel pump running for the normal 2-3 seconds. I cranked it and it took two rounds of 4-5 sec cranks for it to fire and run (normally). I assumed it needed time to build fuel pressure. I then drove it for 20 minutes, parked it for 45 minutes and when I restarted it, it took a longer than normal crank period (maybe 3 seconds) to fire and I did NOT hear the pump run in accessory position. The rest of the day was with short stops and I could always hear the pump start in accessory and the car always fired up instantly. I have the Bentley CD and analyzed the wiring harness. It looks like the fuel pump relay is only commanded to operate by the ECU - there is no external input to the relay coil I can see (ground or B+).
The bottom line is that SOMETIMES the pump is commanded to run in ignition switch accessory position and sometimes it isn't. The "isn't" always seems to be after the car has sat for a while. Is there any combination of failed sensors that would cause the ECU to NOT command the pump to run for it's few seconds in accessory position ? Obviously, the next step is the FP relay but I hate to just throw parts at the car without some sort of troubleshooting and the repeatability of the problem with sitting time leads me to believe it may be more of a relay DRIVE problem then the relay itself.
R's at the dealer today for a faulty fuel float sensor, and they just called to let me know my vehicle has the wrong fuel pump in it. Seems mine has the pump for the Golf/Rabbit with the 4 cylinder engine and they need to keep the car until the part is in.
View 16 Replies1999 Jetta 2.0L manual trans
One day out of the blue the car would not crank or start. Checked and found that fuse #14 was blown and would blow the instant another fuse was inserted. Checked all the typical locations for wiring issues usually associated with the comfort module because it had all the symptoms of a faulty module (the power windows did not work and the fuel pump didn't pressurize the system when the driver door was opened, the alarm didn't set, automatic door locks also inoperable).
I checked the dome light, trunk hinges, rubber boot between doors and body and found nothing. Put a jumper wire into the neutral start relay and was able to crank the car. I then replaced clutch safety switch, neutral start relay and installed new (junkyard) comfort module and the car cranked up, started and everything was working normally again...for about 3 weeks. Then it did the exact same thing again. Fuse #14 was blown again and would blow the new fuse as soon as it touched the terminals in the fuse box.
I reinstalled the jumper wire in the start relay in order to be able to drive the car for the last week, and then last night out of the blue the car would crank, but not start. I turned the engine over several times and could hear the fuel pump pumping and even smell fuel, but no start. 3-5 minutes later after random tries to start, the car stumbles to life as if it wasn't getting fuel, and then drove 10 miles home with no issues. I returned the 'faulty' comfort module Monday and got another one but haven't installed it yet because I fear the same thing happening with this one as the other one.
Last night after I got the car home, I plugged in the comfort module and everything worked like it was supposed to. Can a faulty fuel pump damage the control module? I'm trying to get to the bottom of this and fix the problem and not the symptoms so I'm looking into anything that could potentially cause the problem.
I have the gas 5.4l in my 01 F250 Super Duty. I had to change out the leaking Heater hose before I could attack this other issue. The truck starts when it feels like it. I changed the fuel filter and it started fine. Then the next day it wouldn't. Later it would. However each time it does start it dies when throttled up. I am down to thinking it is the fuel pump. My question is, because changing the pump sucks about as bad as changing the heater hose. Can I install an inline fuel pump and deal with the sump pump in the tank later? Are there any Cons to doing this?
View 5 RepliesLooking for where the fuel pump relay is 2001 f 250 SD reg cab 2 wd. Won't Start On pump gas , starting fluid yes
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 F-250 XLT 4x4 with V10. Truck will not start. No fuel pressure. My Haynes manual does not show ignition or fuel delivery wiring. I have found the relay box behind the radio/dash. I need a wiring diagram and info on which relay is the fuel pump relay. Want to know so I can jump relay to see if fuel pump is okay.
Truck had sat for a few weeks being ran very little, so had to jump start yesterday. Ran for about 15 min, the shut off, re-started and ran for 30 min. Truck sat for about 1.5 hours then would not start. Charged battery overnight and it is 100%.
I just bought another 1991 Ford. This one is a 1/2 ton XLT Lariet with the 302 and for the first time I own a short bed. I also have a 1991 F-250 XLT with a 460 and a 8' bed.
Here is the problem, ( I think) it will not run or at least not for long. The fuel pump, which I am guessing is in the rear tank will not stop running. On the F-250 the pump stops running after a few seconds after I turn on the key.
Where should I start to find out my problem with the fuel system?
My F250 heavy duty isnt getting voltage to the fuel pump relay.....
View 2 RepliesHow do you test the fuel pump regulator, the truck wont start. I tested the schrader valve and it does have pressure but didn't seem like much. (need a gauge) I replaced fuel pump a few years ago so was wondering about the regulator. Is there a test procedure?
View 7 RepliesI've got a 01 f150 yesterday stopped running (like it ran out of gas). Has half a tank. Fuel pressure at rails good but truck will not turn over. Fuel pump and filter less than year old.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1987 ford 350 when i go up a steep hill the truck starts to skip and break down to a point where I have to pull over i just put in new fuel pump in tank, what could be the problem only happens on hills.
View 11 RepliesI have a 1998 Ford F150 with 4.2.. Started off a intermittent problem of not starting acct no fuel. Now will not start at all. Checked all fuses and relays.. Am not getting voltage at fuel pump. Changed ECM thinking that was the problem.. Have checked all multi wire connectors for corrosion and tightness. Am at a lost what to try next.
Also, not sure if its related or not. The turn signals and hazard flashers do not work. When I turn on the hazard flashers, nothing happens. If I leave the flashers switch on, the turn signal work. Checked all fuses and relays and they appear good.
First it was the whole spark plug debacle. Now it's the "fuel pump module". Story starts a several months back. On a moist day I was headed out and the truck ran very rough, "clunky", like it wasn't getting gas. After 15 miles and a stop truck ran fine. Didn't think much of it and truck ran fine for month or so. I was then away for a couple days and came home to find my truck wouldn't run (started briefly then died). Local mechanic thought it might be a fuel pump issue but then got truck running thinking it might have been a delayed inertia switch in front panel (I had hit a deer a week or 2 prior). Again, not thinking much of it continued to drive truck with no issues for awhile. Then one rainy morning on my way to work the truck was running very rough and "clunky" again. It died several times and finally for good.
After getting it towed to the mechanics, he figured the fuel pump was finally shot. The end to my long story is it was the fuel pump module (luckily a lot cheaper fix than the fuel pump) - half of the housing was gone (corroded away) adn moisture was shorting the pump electronics. Why, if this module is half encased in plastic do the engineers feel the need to encase the other half in metal (appeared to be cast aluminum)??!!????!! Of course it makes sense to have an electrical unit that is mounted underneath the truck where it can collect all the moisture, snow, salt from the road encased in a corrodable metal housing. No no, don't put it all in plastic, just half of the unit. MAKES PERFECT SENSE!! I thought to be and engineer took some sort of brains and common sense. Must be not at Ford. I can't be the only one with this issue and wondering WHY!!! - it must be widespread??
Replaced fuel pump after cycling multiple times the diesel still isn't going to the engine. The line is not clogged or leaking but the fuel in the after market 44 gallon tank which is about half full isn't going anywhere.
View 5 RepliesI had a fuel leak at the pump cover (I straightened the cover) and am ready to install the new diaphragm. The old one came out with the rivet head side upward and the pump lever riding on the protruding pin side. Which is correct? This is on an 85 F250 with a Motorcraft carb.
View 1 RepliesI have an 01' f150 that everything is going out on. I've replaced the GEM module thinking that's what it was to no avail. First thing to go was all four windows which have currently been stuck halfway down for 2 weeks. It's stalling out during idle like it isn't getting enough fuel to it. Brake and engine light on dash are staying on. Radio, interior lights won't come on. Will not come out of park once in. I have to do the old forward, back, middle key trick to get it out of park into neutral so I can start it and go. I've also checked all fuses and relays under dash and under Hood.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1992 GMC step side, short bed, 350 engine, Sierra, auto trans, factory air, factory exhaust, power steering.......
Three years ago the fuel pump went out. I have to work alone so I lowered the tank after draining and went through a lot of agony with floor jacks, supports, etc. but finally got the job done in 3 days.
The replacement was a Bosch fuel pump.
It went out today while I was at Sams stores. I got a pull home and it is in my driveway.
It started up once I got it home, but that is what it did the last time it went out, 3 years ago.
Question...should I check the ground first to make sure it is not getting intermittant ground or just do the job with a new pump?
Also, can I do this job by raising or sliding the bed after I unbolt it? I have heard war stories but no actual person that has done it.
Also, when moving the bed either up or sliding it back, isn't there a concern about wires that go to the tail lights?
I cannot afford the 500 dollar shop fee to have it towed and fixed.
I just purchased an 87 f250 w/ a carb'd 460. I purchased it with the mech fuel pump swapped out to an electric. The previous owner states that they gave him the wrong electric pump and I should exchange it for a different one. The reason for him putting it on was to get it running for me to hear it run.
My question: Is this even recommended? I wouldn't mind staying with an electric pump up front. If it is recommended, what would be a suitable pump to replace it with, as in flow/feeding characteristics?
Also, it only feeds from the rear tank, which also has a bad fuel pump. I'd like to get both tanks functioning again. I'd rather not deal with the tank switching valve due to what I've read about them. Has anyone ever hooked up a manual valve and just switched tanks that way? I've searched this site extensively and couldn't find anything. I know I'm not the first to have thought about it.
Sometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start,the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad....
View 2 RepliesMy 92 F250 5.8 won't start but fuel pump runs all the time the key is on. Some times it runs. But has no power and check engine light is on.. But I cant get it to flash codes, only steady light on.. It did this before then ran good. Now back to no start.. I checked grounds and relays ..
View 2 Replies