Ford - F250 :: 1992 - Truck Will Shudder While Let Out The Clutch In First Gear
May 8, 2012
They are about my F250. It is a 92 with 186000 miles. I love this truck.
After a long trip, maybe 1.5 hours, the truck will shudder while I let out the clutch in first gear. This only occurs in first, and it doesn't happen after the truck sits for a bit, just after driving.
I have an opportunity for a good deal on a F150. It is a 2001 with 181,000 miles for $4000. Is it worth updating for the new technology even if there is the same old high mileage issue?
View 9 Replies
Advertisement
Replaced the 2002 ford explorer 4x4 traction control module because of a shudder in first gear. With the new module the shudder disappeared but now the truck shifts into 4wd by itself and stays there. I am now on my 2nd new module because I returned the first one thinking it was defective.
If I cycle the 4x4 high switch and the 4x4 auto switch, the truck switches back int 2wd but on for a moment then goes back into 4wd. I don't get a 4x4high indicator light but I can hear and feel it is in 4wd. Almost like it thinks the truck needs work with the traction. I have now disconnected the module completely and the trucks runs/shifts beautifully in 2wd. I know my transmission is good. BTW, I have no trouble codes.
Do I have a bad speed sensor somewhere? and How do I trouble shoot for it?
View 8 Replies
My 1992 F-250 7.3 4X4 has a very intermittent issue with the E40D. Rarely, usually after a lot of around town driving (I don't know if that has any direct correlation), I will get a rough shift from 1-2. It will kind of bang into gear and make the whole truck shudder.
On one of it's episodes, it also did it in 2-3, however that only happened once and I haven't been able to make it do that again. I'm worried that it's something that I should address, if I can do so without just rebuilding the whole transmission. It doesn't slip and shifts fine most of the time, other than the occasional 1-2 issue.
To cut this short, does this sound like a 1-2 accumulator issue? Maybe just old truck syndrome? I feel like this is a dumb as hell question, but isn't it a bad idea to install a shift kit in an E40D with 126K miles on it?
View 3 Replies
I have a 92 f250 4x4 351 windsor, so I had a hose bust the other day that ran from one side of the intake to the other, I mean completely split down the side. The engine overheated when this happened so i replaced the hose and everything seemed fine until i was heading home and it started to overheat. Being frustrated and angry i noticed that the heater was blowing out cold air when it was overheating and that the top radiator hose would run flat when i popped the hood, but no coolant would run thru it until it overheated and sucked it back up or something. But I then changed the water pump thinking it was that but it wasn't, so then i suspected a stuck closed thermostat. I changed that and coolant still isn't running thru top radiator hose and now I am leaking coolant from what could be the thermostat gasket or somewhere else im scared and want to fix this problem.
View 10 Replies
My wife and I purchased our 2005 Chrysler 300 Limited in May 2004.Our 300 has over 117,00 miles as of May 2011. It has been a rather dependable automobile.I have enjoyed it almost as much as my HD. We have performed maintenance as close to the schedule as possible.
I failed to drive the car as often as our second car is an used 2002 S430 which had been my primary auto until about two months. My niece and nephew reported to my wife that the car was not "doing something right". No one could really explain, so I had drove the vehicle myself to determine the issue. The transmission had the feel that it was being "slammed" into the next gear without any clutch. Once the car was warmed up, it appeared that when it shifted at 38-40 mph or 48-50 mph, the car shudders. It almost resembles the feeling you get when you run a car across those strips in the road.
I took the car to the dealership where I have had it serviced locally. They replaced a module which had Technical Service Bulletin from Chrysler for noted similar problems. The first module replaced did not resolve the problem. I took it back and they tried again with the end result being same as before I took the 300 into the shop, transmission appeared to shudder when shifting at the midrange gears.
The dealership as another option recommended that the transmission be replaced. I was not confident with their assessment as I had the distinct feeling they were not clear on the real issue.
I took the car to another service shop which I had more confidence in their work. I asked that they check the car for the problem with the transmission as I wanted their assessment. At this point, I had pretty much decided that I would get rid of the car, but did not want to give anybody else the troubled vehicle nor did I want to have to rush to decide on an automobile to purchase.
The second shop recommended the transmission be replaced, as well several other items be checked as there appeared to be oil leaks. The CAM plugs had been replaced as part of the service the dealer performed though the engine area had not been cleaned of the previous oil. That news was alarming, as the price estimate for a replacement engine was around 6500-7000 smackeroos, way outside of my comfort for repair on the car.
I was able to locate a used transmission with only 86k on it through a very gratuitous turn of fate. I digress, however, as the source for the used transmission was available only to licensed shops.
Two shops had referenced a transmission repair shop as one of the best in our small county. I left the car with the transmission shop for their testing, and it came back with their recommendation that the problem existed in either the coil or spark or an area related there.
I again took the car to the second shop and asked that they check the engine thoroughly for any issues with the spark plugs, wires or similarly related issues. The shop reported that the motor compression was at 190 across all six cylinder and the spark plugs and wires were new and there were no issues with the coils.
I am most happy that the engine is in excellent condition. I have planned to take the car back to the tranny shop as I reported the findings to him of the other shop. I am concerned about the transmission, though I am driving it about 60 miles round trip to work about 2-3 days each week. It still convulses at the mid-range shifting but otherwise runs pretty good after that. The car body is in very good shape as is the interior.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2001 m5r2 ford f-150 standard transmission. i have replaced the slave cyl., the entire clutch assy., the master cyl. pilot bearing. the trans. will engage all five gears plus reverse while truck is off but will not engage a gear while running. i have bled and bled and bled and still will not engage.
View 1 Replies
i have a 78' F-250 4x4 4 speed with a straight 6. it has headers and an eldebrock 600 on an offenhouser dual plane intake. The carb just randomly started acting up the other day and what to try now. it will sputter and just about die when i first let off the clutch then it will suddenly start racin. its really annoying and hard to drive. i checked the inline fuel filter and it should be getting plenty of gas. didn't find any vacuum leaks.
View 14 Replies
Well here it is I just put a new slave cylinder in my 02' F-150 and once we figured out all the little issues we were having we finally got the truck to fire up!!! Now my problem is that when the truck is running I can't get the truck into gear with the clutch pushed and it doesn't even grind. But when the truck is off it goes through the gears no problem what so ever. When we did the slave cylinder while we were in there we just replaced everything clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, rear seal, and pilot bearing. We figured that since all the shops were quoting me 800 and up for just doing the slave that since were in there we might as well do everything since nothing has ever been replaced yet. My question is why will the truck not let me shift into gears when running but no problem when off. Oh and yes the system was bled after doing the slave actually twice so far.
View 5 Replies
I have a 2011 F250 with the 6.2 gas engine. I have been having a problem that the dealership says there is nothing they can do and have never heard about.
After the truck sits all night I get in and drive it for 10-15 min. It gets warm and I get out turning it off. When I come back about 15-45 min later I start it up and go to leave. As I pull out and start to accelerate in first gear the truck goes to an idle for about 2-3 seconds. I push the gas pedal and get no response. After a couple of seconds it picks up wherever you have the gas pedal. If you have the pedal to the floor it jumps you forward. This is not putting on any lights and the computer is not throwing any codes. According to the dealership the computer is telling them there is nothing wrong.
This has happened 12 times in the past 6 months. It has happened since I bought the truck. I have just started documenting it as of 6 months ago. It is not something I can make it do on command. After it happens once it doesn't seem to do it again for a week or two. I have 31000 miles on the truck. The dealership has had it for 4 days now and can't seem to get it to happen for them.
View 2 Replies
I had recently purchased a 2003 golf gti AUTOMATIC (with optional shifter) with a 1.8 turbo 4 cylinder engine. The vehicle has 139,000 miles on it. Before purchasing, I had a mechanic come out and look at the vehicle for a pre-purchase inspection, and ran the code P0303 (cylinder 3 misfire) which without test driving, told me that is what caused the shift shudder I noticed when I had test driven it a previous day. He told me the coil packs were in good condition by looking at the top of them, and told me if I replace the spark plugs, the issue should go away.
I feel it is important to mention that he had also run codes on the transmission and nothing came up. Taking it home, this morning I had replaced the spark plugs and driven it for about an hour both regularly and aggressively to test it. The problem is still there, and I was really hoping that there is a solution to this problem, because everything else on the car is beautiful, while being my dream car, I just want it to work as well as I know it can. To be more descriptive, when shifting to 3rd the whole car feels basically like it is tripping over itself before successfully shifting.
View 10 Replies
I have a 92 F150, 2 wd, 4.9L 6 cyl, 4 speed with OD, hydraulic clutch. Awhile back I noticed the clutch starting to slip. Eventually it was slipping so much that I took it in for repair. When I went to pick it up, the mechanic showed me that the clutch disc was in fair shape, but the throw-out fingers on the pressure plate diaphragm were bent inward. As I recall it was more of a rounded bend as apposed to a sharp bend. What could cause that to happen?
View 2 Replies
My air conditioner had a problem a few years ago. While idling in the driveway on a really hot day the clutch on the compressor froze and nearly burned the belt off of the pulleys before I killed the AC. I continued to drive the vehicle for several months but without using the AC.
Fast forward 5 years (almost) and I just finished installing a new engine and putting a shift kit in the transmission.
Remembering the original AC problem I know that I need to get this fixed. I noticed while checking all the engine functions that the compressor clutch is not stuck any more (maybe all the oil leaking onto it worked with this).
As it stands now, the AC seems to cycle normally but it doesn't get cold and probably needs a charge at a minimum. Is it possible that the compressor clutch will work fine or is it a disaster waiting to happen? What else should I check in the AC system?
I'm not against replacing the whole system or any single part of it. I am also not sure whether the AC uses R12 or R134. How can I tell?
View 9 Replies
Just rejoined this Ford gang after years absence. Used to own "The Muny Pit", a '79 F-150 4WD monster with a '69 429... constantly breaking something. Anyway, where to look on my '08 F-150 XLT 4WD with a 5.4, 83,000 miles. Searched the search bar for my title and found a post on an '00 Expedition describing similar issue than mine... for about 6 months now when I accelerate either from stop or a crawl; forward or reverse; more so when turning, but does do it wheels straight.
Upon initial acceleration I have this horrendous rumble / shudder in the truck, like the grinding metal bearing sound/feeling felt when the pinion bearing went out on my '79 (only felt it seconds before the 9" rear pumpkin exploded). Once rolling it stops. I have checked all wheel bearings.. I have check all the suspension joints... everything looks fine, no obvious issues. The only suspension mod I've done is a 1.5" leveling kit when brand new. On the Expedition two replys suggested changing the transmission/transfer case fluids claiming it cured their vehicles.
View 5 Replies
So I have had this happen 3 times so far. As I am driving, and step on the accelerator, I get a very bad shudder in the engine. The whole front of the truck is jumping up and down. Once I slow down it stops and is fine.
It has happened on the following three occasions but it is intermittent and does not do it all the time:
1. driving up a long grade at 45 mph for 5 minutes. I stepped on the accelerator to speed up and it happened.
2. Getting on the highway from 45 to 70 fairly quickly.
3. Once I got on the throttle heavy and got up to 80 MPH. I laid off the throttle to slow down and when I stepped on the accelerator again it happened.
I was not towing at any of these times. I do have warranty still but since I cannot always replicate it, I have not taken it to the dealer yet.
View 10 Replies
I just recently bought a 2000 excursion 7.3 diesel. I'm new to diesel but learning. So far I've installed a new drop in filter in my airbox. Cut out the plastic behind the grill for cold ram air into the intake. I've done the FPR mod and cleaned out the exhaust back pressure tube. And last but not least I installed an Edge Evolution 2 programmer running stage 3 with timing advanced 2 degrees. Nothing else to the custom settings other than what stage 3 provided. Here is my problem. On the freeway at 65-75mph cruising with the cruise control on, the truck starts to shudder. I suspect my TC lockup is going out but not sure. So I wanted to test it buy installing a manual lockup switch. So I installed the switch running a wire from the plug going into the transmission on the purple with yellow wire using a saddle tap to a switch to part of the dash frame under the dash. Went to test out the switch and nothing happened.
As y'all and other forum's have described I should feel something and the od light should start flashing. I get nothing. Tried testing the switch and my ground source and everything tests out fine. Tested the saddle tap. Its fine. Tested with the switch on and using a meter to check ohms at the tap to the frame of the truck I'm getting 8ohms. I would think there shouldn't be any resistance because its a dead short but that's what I'm getting. Am I connected to the right spot on the transmission or should I move the tap to the plug under the brake master cylinder. Could my TC lockup solenoid be going out and that's what's causing the shudder and why the manual switch doesn't work.
View 14 Replies
So my 06 6.0 4x4 is just about to break 200,000km and I've done most of the upgrades and work myself. (All the updates are in my Sig). My problem is that when I'm cruising and the engine is at full operating temp, if Im bellow 80-100km/h nothing but as soon as I break into that speed range about 2000rpm the truck will start to shudder. Almost feels like its not firing properly is the best way to describe it. Why this could be happening or causing it?
View 7 Replies
I purchased a 2011 F150 XLT 4X4 Super Crew in early January, since then I have had it into the dealership many times to correct an annoying shudder that can be seen (looking at the steering wheel) and felt as the truck accelerates. The shudder happens around 5 kph or 3 mph and then quickly disappears as you accelerate.
This is extremely annoying in stop and go traffic and is more readily felt if driving up hill. The dealer tried shims in the differential, Installed a new rear drive shaft, U joints and the last attempt was a complete rear end all to no avail.
View 14 Replies
Ok I have this problem now on my R .... the dealership replaced the whole clutch kit under warranty and I picked up
the car on monday morning at first everything felt ok until I had to reverse I felt a slight shudder but didn't think
much of it as the clutch only then did about 10km's ... The clutch is fine in all the other gears no shudder no slipping nothing it's only when you reverse that you can feel it. What this could be ?
View 2 Replies
First off, I just traded another vehicle for a 97 mountaineer, 5.0 v8 AWD with about 171k miles on it. Runs and drives real nice, but on occasion under normal acceleration i get a slight shudder when it shifts into high gear. The tranny fluid does look and smell a bit old, but not burnt. I plan on changing it if you think it would fix the problem and not cause more.
Also, I think the ball joints are shot. The camber is in on the front tires and i get some pretty good clunks when I go over bumps in the road. Steering wheel is tight. I jacked it up and tried wiggling the tires but i couldn't get them to move like that. I'm assuming ball joints still though right? And if so, how hard of a job is that for a DIY'er?
Also i noticed a bit of a whine coming from under the truck when turning into my driveway. Transfer case I'm assuming? What could cause a slight whine and how do i fix it? I plan on changing the fluid in that too.
View 14 Replies
Took the beast out for a good road trip to try out the new tires. She is running good now, but has picked up a weird miss which cause the truck to shudder. It does feel and sound just like a miss, I know that it is a diesel but that is only way to describe it.
When driving along with the cruise set at 75, when I hit a hill, the truck will gradually accelerate, and it will miss a beat. Just like you turned it off and right back on very fast. Usually once, twice if the hill is long. If I accelerate harder it will not do it. Most often does it while gradually moving accelerator.
Has new fuel filter ad cam sensor.. Runs great the rest of the time.
View 9 Replies
My truck seems to shudder between 40 and 60 mph when it's in OD. If I turn off OD it seems to go away with the increased rpm's. Although I can't be sure if it genuinely disappears or if I just don't notice since I'm at 2100 rpms instead of 1500. Trans fluid is clean. Is this a common problem in these trucks? Just filled up from flat E the same day air temps about 4 deg. Truck was fully warmed up. Does this sound ignition related, tranny or fuel related?
View 14 Replies
