Ford - F150 :: Tank Leaks When Put In Gas Too Fast
Aug 21, 2011
My parents have dumped a Ford F150 Explorer van on me to fix for them. Whenever they put gas in it too fast or fill it up more than about 2/3rds of the way full, it leaks near the back of the tank. I believed that it may have been the Charcoal Cylinder, but that theory was not correct. I really don't want to drop the tank, but that is my next step. I don't think that it is a hole, because it only leaks under certain conditions.
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I just got a 1994 F150 with the 5.8L motor its a 4X4 with Auto trans. I have the dual tanks set up, midship and aft-axle and both tanks leak, more aft-axle then front. I was wondering how difficult is it to remove and install these tanks and what are some tricks to solve the problems I'll run into?
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I have a 92 f150 w 302 . My front tank leaks out of the gas cap and builds up pressure. Even though I have never put fuel in it (owned it 7 mos). I siphon fuel out of it weekly. If I switch from rear to front. The truck stalls out.
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Ok, so my 1994 chevy lumina euro coupe 3.1L has started stalling now that it is getting colder outside. This morning on my way to school. I started my car and put it in reverse and backed out a little bit and it stalled out. So I started it back up and it was ok. It acted like it was going to stall out again but it didn't. This has happened a total of 3 times now in the past week.
Also I do have a fuel problem as well. My car smells of VERY STRONG gas when sitting. And I am getting 11.9 mpg in the city and 14.7 mpg on the highway. Oh, and one more thing. I slowly lose coolant in my reservoir tank. It is a very slow leak and only leaks while the car runs.
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I have a 2010 ford f150. Every time I fill it up with gas it wont start upon the first try just turns over. Second time it sputters and then stalls.Third time it starts then runs and stalls.Fourth time it will start fine until I fill the truck up with gas again. I caught part of a Car Talk shop on Saturday May 25 about a gas fumes the new sealed gas tanks, charcoal filters. Didn't hear all of the program.I read some articles on the internet about a possible gas tank valve. What is the problem with this ford f150 truck to make it stall out after it is filled with gas???
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2000 Chrysler 300M with 142K miles. Was a very reliable car until recently.
Problem began with boiling coolant in the reservoir tank. Then began to lose coolant at a high rate. I tried stop leak products and replaced the coolant frequently for a couple months. Some of it kind of worked, but the problem always returned. The car drives fine for about 10 highway miles then begins to steam out from under the hood on the passenger side. It gets about half way up the temp gauge, but does not really overheat. I usually stop when it steams out, let it cool, replace the antifreeze, then do it all over again. I've also tried a bunch of other things too, e.g., radiator flush. None of it worked.
The mechanic wants to replace the radiator. Says the system does not have pressure so there's no real way to determine if there are leaks in the engine. But he does know that the radiator is no good. I'm okay to replace radiator, but don't want to do it just to find out ten minutes later that I have a blown head gasket, which I would opt not to fix. I have read the tell tale signs of a blown head gasket, such as coolant in the oil, but there is none. My exhaust is white, but it's 5 degrees outside and it doesn't look whiter. I have seen some coolant on the ground at times.
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1987 f150 302 4spd 4x4. When I bought the truck 4 years and 12K miles ago the orig owner had just installed a new front pump (in tank) and new switch thing on the frame rail. He said shortly after that the rear pump stopped working so he just ran off of the front tank. That's what I've been doing also except as of the last few months it has started to leak from the rear tank (I don't ever put gas in it and was empty when I bought it) and dies periodically from time to time? Where the leak could be coming from. I do suspect the dying has to do with the leak though.
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The ole 5.4l hit a snag today. I was on my way to fill her up and she started sputtering and damn near died! i filled her up and it was like nothing ever happened. Took her to AutoZone and the diagnosis was a Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor.
I have a connection with Bumper-to-Bumper to get the part for cheap but I'm not sure if i want to dive into either moving the bed or dropping the tank. I'd prefer to move the bed.
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I have an 1979 F150, 351 V8, only 104,000 miles. Been driving it sporadically, had it serviced over the years, been driving it until recently. At least three new batteries have drained to dead in short amounts of time. No one seems to be able to pinpoint the trouble. It has two gas tanks--the original tank overflows out the filler cap in hot weather, even when mostly empty. I must find this trouble. Again--it's been seen by several repair shops, but no one has fixed the problem.
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I have a 89 F150 4x4 lariat with the 302 8cyl and dual gas tanks. I was driving to work and the truck died. I have spark and enough juice to turn it over so I must be getting no fuel. When I turn the key to the on position I do not hear the fuel pump whine as it primes, it's dead silent. I'm assuming the fuel pump is dead.
Are there any fuses to check? I did check the switch that goes off when in an impact and it was not tripped off so it's not the problem.
My hayes manual (which i find is wrong ALOT) says that 87-89 f150's have a single fuel pump that is external to the tanks and found along the left frame rail? Can anyone confirm? Someone told me they thought it might have 2 pumps but I switched tanks and the truck still didn't start (or make a fuel pump sound) so unless the planets aligned and BOTH pumps blew simultaneously I would assume there's only 1 pump.
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My vehicle:
1976 F150 2wd Extended cab
390 4bbl
c6 transmission
4BBL Edlebrock Carb
Dual fuel tanks, only rear main tank connected
My problem: For the first year I owned the truck, everything ran fine and it started up really quickly even after it sat for a few days or a few weeks. I have since, for about the last year or so, had to crank it for 30-45 seconds to get it to start. This all started around the time my fuel pump went out. I replaced it with an Airtex fuel pump from Autozone. I also installed a glass in line filter before the carb in front of the distributor.
I noticed that after about 4-6 hours, the fuel had drained out of the filter and that's when I would have to crank it forever to get it going. It also seems like there is no fuel in the carb as it doesn't even try to start when it first gets cranked. I thought this was a bad pump, so I bought a new one last week and tried it again. Sure enough after about 4-6 hours, everything is empty again and it takes forever to start it. So it's not a bad pump, or so I think.
The other day I backed it into my driveway and left it, something I never do. I checked about 4 days later and there was still fuel in the filter. This makes me think that gravity is making it drain back to the tank.
Is there something that would cause this? Also I have found a one way fuel check valve online that is supposed to remedy this type of problem. Do they work for this situation? Or is there something else I should be doing to fix this? It has taken a bit of a toll on my starting system having to crank so long all the time. I have so far had to replace my starter, starter solenoid, and all the battery cables, starter cable, terminals, etc. due to excessive wear.
The valve I found is here : [URL] .....
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I have a 1986 F150 6 cyl, dual tanks, no AC, manual fuel pump. Just recently, I have been having issues with the tanks. At first it seemed like the back tank was siphoning from the front tank. Now I have fuel coming out of my front tank filler neck. When I open the back tank gas cap, there is enough pressure to spray me with gasoline. I am not familiar with the fuel delivery system of my truck ...
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My roommate owns a 1987 Toyota Van. Those vans that have the Motor under your butt. Anyways, when we make a sharp turn (like fliiping) in either direction, we start hearing a thumping noise... It goes fast or slow depending on how fast your whipping around. We thought it was a CV joint, but, it looks like there isn't a CV Joint (Axel) Where to start to solve this?? Cause even when it goes down the highway you go into the curve and your really hear it.. The lug Nuts on the van are Tight, I've checked. We may think its a wheel barring..
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MY 2003 Windstar has 77,000 miles on it. I recently switched mechanics. When I went for the last oil change they said I had oil leaks and recommended they do a dye test to see where the leaks are, I agreed. They found 3 leaks: front crankshaft seal - $138, Oil Pan Gasket - $373 and Timing Cover & Or Gasket - $960. They said from a priority stand point the oil pan leak should be fixed. I really don't want to put a lot of money into it because there are some any things as well. I use it mainly for around town with some occasional long trips. And I haven't seen any oil under it when it has sat for a while. Is it a high probability while on a trip the oil pan could fail all at once? Will I get some warning the problem is getting worst by seeing oil under it when it's parked for awhile?
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Can sometimes smell antifreeze while driving but have not found any leaks and fluid is full?
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I changed my Oil Saturday and noticed an oily wetness on the pan and couple of those "droplets" at the forward edge of the transmission. Its clearly motor oil. Im takin it in next week. Its not too bad to drive it but at only 14000 miles I am surprised.
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From what I've read here Synthetic oil can expose leaks in an older engine oil because of greater cleaning properties that removes sludge build up. I bought my Ford E350 110K, 2 months ago and the oil was changed at that time. I've put 2K on it since and the oil is still very clear on the dipstick but not quite to the full mark. Would the still clear looking oil indicate a well maintained engine and a probable lack of sludge? Would it therefore be safe to change to Mobil 1 or similar product?
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When I fill up my washer fluid reservoir, about half of it leaks out somewhere near the front of the passenger door and falls to the ground. Where it could be coming from? Is the rear washer hose routed through this area?
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What can possibly be in Amsoil Antifreeze for them to make the claim it "stops small and hairline leaks"?
Is there something that's not in any other antifreeze? Would using this antifreeze gum up my cooling system?
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I own a 2000 Ford F250 4x4 equipped with the 5.4L and an auto trans that was purchased 2 yrs ago. Last summer we had some noise and leaks from the trans. Dealership fixed us with with a new pump and torque converter, fixed the problem. Now I have an issue where the truck will go into reverse, but will not go into any forward gears. Fuid level is fine, no signs or symptoms of overheating, no noises, or symptoms of something obvious. My son drives the truck and has stated that sometimes the park/safty switch gives him problems when trying to start the vehicle, he has to "wiggle" the shifter (or put in Nuetral) to get it to start. I'm thinking maybe the shifter/linkage may be loose or something, rather than a real transmission problem.
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Leaking from the top, right center. I taped over the brake light, still leaking. Not the gasket, any water sources others have found? I guess it wasn't a problem its first 8 years of life in the Arizona desert, but I bought it and brought to the wet northwest!
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